baccaruda

that looks sharp. 2.5" does wonders for the fun factor! good choice too, meineke is the only chain i can think of that i'll advise anyone to go to.

hey, ed alexander sells brat stripe decals on ebay. he is the first to come to mind out of many here who have decal reproduction capability. subarutex and i think mick also make decals/stickers of sorts but i don't know how large-scale they can go.. if you make your decals available to The Cause, you will have the gratitude of millions of old-skool subie owners...

for the input shaft/pilot hole lineup i usually have the engine already on a jack (with plywood oil pan cushion in use) and i use a second jack and give the trans a small lift as well. if you find the right angles for the engine and the trans it goes in pretty smoothly.

Jerry (bratsrus) did mine for me. He welded two strips of metal under the seats, side to side, and drilled 4 holes in them and also in the bed to match. then we bolted them in and he welded the nuts under the bed so i can unbolt the seats from the top side. It looks great and it would be hard to come up with a better idea..

carburetor

i started removing the wiring today. would have finished, i'm sure, except i had to take a sawzall to the radiator support and crossmember to get the wrecked part of the car out of the way. I will also be replacing the crank pulley and most of the timing belt cover as it turns out. my parts car is a '90 automatic 2WD. pull n save didn't have any manual transmission cars that i could have de-wired (i may have missed one) but if a manual car turns up somewhere i will probably take the time to yank the harness. the more i fink with EJ22s, the more i like them.. they're so much simpler than the EA cars with all their vacuum crap..

1/2 inch is exactly 13 mm. i doubt that could hurt anything. thanks for the electrical info.. now i'm thinking it would be nice to have newer sensors on the engine, though, so maybe i'll grit my teeth and put in an analog dash.. i'd have to change less on the motor, swap in the fuel tank sensors, and i have to take the dash cover off to fix the heater switch...

i'm going to pull my harness tomorrow.... will i need to remove the dash or just go under it? thanks and i'm glad things are going smoothly on your projects (because it is a good omen for mine )

they go on the way that EA81 pic looks.. if the bracket were a letter F, it would be rightside up on the car, so the deflector sits higher.

if it's already taken apart, and if framerail surgery doesn't scare you, you might see if an EJ22 swap will fit. much of what it will need just to run stock could easily apply to a swap; why not make it competitive now? you could put in a 5 speed, and the electric work in that car is so simple, it would basically be adding the EJ22 wiring, and splicing in a fuel pump.

semi-related.. i've heard that turbo EA82 axles are good upgrades for stock samurai axles...

#1 sounds cool. you could also get an auto dimmer from a 59 cadillac and mount it on the dash :cool: #2 also sounds cool as long as there are some good instructions for us non-wizards.

exactly. gary... i think the hard part would involve special tools rather than parts. for example, you can get a selection of o-rings pretty easily, but pulling the inner tie rod ends is a little more specialized... it might be worth a look though.

check your motor mounts, transmission mounts, and pitch stopper too just to be sure.

congrats. good score. but that WRX engine should be in your GL10...

heh. i've been working on my own cars (9 cars over 7 years) and i've learned a lot about them, but i've learned more about patience

this thread contains that link as well as commentary.. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=17327&page=2&highlight=subarino i just bumped it as well so it will be current again.

bump due to current interest.. can this get moved to retrofitting please?

Sorry to burst bubbles but the strut tower brace has to be fastened to the actual strut inside the tower. the two tabs snowman's and skip's are fastened to are the very lightweight tabs that the spare tire support arm bolts to. It is fairly thin metal and not designed to carry much of a load. While it may give some benefit, I would equate it to using a copper pipe for a sway bar. no offense...

Hey, I found that handful of extra lugs I told you I had. I should send them to the 143rd ave address in rapid city, right?

thanks anyway but that I've seen that site before; subarino from Oz did that project. My car is fuel injected and has a digital dash system instead of an analog system so there is more wiring involved than with your car or with subarino's for that matter (no offense).

bump

i'm accepting donations to fund the purchase of some turbo legacy wheels for MY car...

thanks for trying but the link didn't work...

Aargh. thanks anyway.