baccaruda

nice looking ride, lukas. can definitely tell it's a non US model is it a turbo?

that's a much better idea. are there any bars near you? see if anyone "there" remembers such a jeep.

in your driveway?! what is wrong with people! makes you think it wouldn't be safe even from a really determined idiot if it were in a garage... even though your neighbor only got 3 plate #s they still might be useful. good luck..

um, altons would be about last on my list of choices :-\ poor boys on division (across from the General Store) has some of the best rates in town and they're an honest shop there's a subaru specialty shop called Hopkins on Nevada right below Bridgeport st. the guy had been a pro subaru tech for 20 years. i had him look at my turbowagon when i was nailing down its problem, and he was honest about telling me that it wouldnt' be worth it to ME to pay him to do any more for it, especially since he recognised that i am comfortable doing as much of my own work as possible.

sounds like i need to find a small tent trailer to tow with the brat, and take my show on the road stock, you can get calipers at pull n save for $6.00 each or if spaldings/whiteys have them, for (probably) $30ish each. you get what you pay for though you might just need the rotors turned though.

sure. email me directions to your house and hold your breath

mark, have you ever had a lifted subie before?

hi Mike, *aw shucks* thanks for the kind words.

you could leave the calipers on each car if possible. i think keeping the engine suspended would be the big thing. assuming you're talking about the whole crossmember.

i can get a short block for about $75 at the parts yard provided i can find a good one. i haven't seen one in a while but i've only recently started looking again. fixing it doesn't have to happen anytime soon so i'm not really looking to have one shipped in because i think a shortblock would be about $50. thanks though.. and my heads are OK; they're gen 2s and I pulled the crossover pipe and checked the ports a few months ago and they weren't cracked underneath. i'll keep yours in mind though. thanks.

my turbowagon has a kevlar facing on the clutch disc. it cost me an extra $100. The brand is "Rhino" and I got it from a HD truck clutch shop on special order. also, for $4000, you can do at least 4 EJ22 swaps into EA81 cars, and they start at 140 HP...

door panels are usually $8-15 each at a junkyard; that's how I'd fix it. Fenders are usually $20-$50.

i talked to him on the phone, it's not a turbo. the only thing i dislike MORE than cars for sale with no engine bay pictures is USMB posters who stay up too late and give themselves impractical great ideas wish i could blame:drunk:

hah. corky wins that round.

i'm in communication with him regarding price and a *compression test* but no, i'm not sure yet.

heh, i don't know, i've only seen them refer to EA81s that way, and they'll leave out a year: "i broke an axle in the MY yesterday" .. still doesn't tell you what year it is. the mystery continues...

NICE what do you aussies mean by MY for the EA81s anyway? i can't figure it out!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7924975671&category=6783 If this doesn't go for much, i have a proposal for someone. My wagon needs a turbo longblock to run properly. I would split this wagon with someone on the west side of WA as such: We part out the car. I get the long block, you get everything else. That way I wouldn't have to bring a dead car over to spokane just to throw it away any takers? (any takers able to do a compression test on it first? hehe) I'd be good for up to $100.. I've emailed him asking about his bottom line. If it's cheap enough I will buy it myself...

it just occurred to me that one could get the cooling duct from on top of an XT's turbo and chop it and mount it upside down on the stock filter box to act as an easy heat shield. i just don't see any reason to cut a hole in the fender, and the difference in filtering for paper or oiled cloth filters is *cumulative*. you won't see a difference except your engine will, over time, be more susceptible to failures from dirty air. paper filters better and for a stock turbo with the airbox cut out, you're not going to need the extra flow from an oiled cloth filter except at high high high RPMS, and that's when you start to run into problems anyway. stick with paper and your engine will thank you

actually he just tells people he works at the sign shop but he really works at the dollar store, so he can get a discount.

i'd say a pre *96* 2.2 liter. in 96 they upped the compression ratio a little. giving a small HP increase, but the pistons thereafter were large enough that those are no longer non-interference engines! so if you bust a timing belt, you're looking at a dead engine. stick with 95 or earlier.

nice nice nice! instead of (or before) rhino liner, you might consider POR-15. I'm gearing up to treat my brat with it. excellent rust prevention.

i've got to stick up for you too. every time i see a rusty beaten up subaru, i think it's trashy. i think "what a piece of crap, too bad it wasn't better taken care of." i don't have that opinion if it's an off road car because then it's practical.. who wants to spend more time watching their paint job than 4 wheeling? people who DON'T 4 wheel, like me and why does a lowered brat which can't offroad need to be lightweight anyway? i have to say that treating any subaru as if it's immune to standards applied to any non-subaru is pretty unfair. a lot of people have what we'd call misconceptions about subarus that were arrived at just as uninformedly and unfairly. the only people who think that "subarus should only be rally/offroad capable" are the people who have those interests. caboobaroo's not dissing you guys for NOT lowering your cars, so give him the same courtesy and wish him luck. suggestions for improvement are usually welcomed by anyone, but criticizing someone's preference is none of your business.

wow, how's it handle? nice work.

read his signature, that'll explain a lot