baccaruda

ed rocks! thanks! engine and ECU are key. i have a plan for my wagon now instead of selling it.

http://www.ausubaru.com/ausubaru/html/modules.php?name=Content&pa=showpage&pid=3 some really nice images here. we should do this!

nngh, i knew that but my brain made me say 2.2 instead of 2.5.

bump

heh. i'd like to see corky zooming by on a 2cycle scooter

damn, looks great. love the 2.2 RS wheels. what kind of camera is that?

your front end problem is either alignment or motor and/or transmission mounts, i'll bet. welcome!

here's the skinny on the filter mod: cone / K&N style filters flow more but filter less. their flow gain is greater than their filter loss but they still have filter loss. the stock airbox, with the bottom cut out, is in perfect position to receive cooler air from under the car. someone (maybe skip) tested this a while back but (i think) people are preoccupied with how cool the cone filters look and most don't bother to properly insulate THEM against hot engine air either. Both mods are drastic improvements for a turbo car. Driving west up Vantage on I-90 it let me go 90+ in 5th gear when before, on an earlier trip, in the same car, i was topped out around 50 in 4th gear. I'd say that if you have a mostly stock engine (i.e. you're not going all the way with a performance build) then what's the point of maximizing flow potential that will rarely if ever be necessary? The crossover pipe or up-pipe is the one that wraps around under the front of the engine and receives from both of the heads, and feeds the turbo from underneath. the downpipe is the one that comes off of the turbo and has the two converters (first is oxidizing, second is reducing) on it. having no catalytic converters will make the car more fun to drive but who knows what will happen when it's emissions time?

hey patrick, you have mail.

I'd like to get ahold of a comprehensive wiring diagram for a 1986 GL10 wagon. the whole thing. If anyone who has the whole deal would let me borrow it and go to kinko's i'd appreciate it. I'll pay for shipping and I'd think a deposit would be a reasonable idea. thanks....

what was wrong?

wow. now i'm really jealous. even if it's a 2wd auto that's still a good buy.

Today I went down to Yakima to trade an LSD to Jerry in exchange for some quality time with my Brat. I now have super-comf XT6 seats in my brat as well as mounted bed seats and some rust chased away. Pat hooked me up with some bed seatbelts so now thanks to McBrat as well, I'll have the whole setup. thanks again for all the great work jerry! I never asked you what the LSD was going into? (hopefully not kool aid ) Andy

yes they are and yes you will. www.pullandsave.com if you like. do a search for brake bleeding, there's a funky order you do them in on subies. it's different for EA81 and EA82 cars.

you're 100% qualified in that case! you need the rotors, calipers, backing plates (bring some PB blaster and a wire brush to scrape off the crap on the hub to make it easier to take off the backing plate), and the hard line on the control arm of the donor car. The fun part will be getting the axle nuts off of the donor car without FUBARing the lugs. You could always get new lugs pressed in when you get the rotors turned though. the only problem is that they chop the soft lines on the calipers at PNS. new ones are I think $18 each at napa, someone here (or elsewhere in spokane) might have a better deal on those for you.

hm, i never thought of that I prefer the hard way anyway.

Hey GM, there are at least two turbo EA82 vehicles in Pull N Save RIGHT NOW. I don't know if they still have the rear brake hardware on them but they did a couple weeks ago when i was there last. One of them had pretty crusty looking rotors so you might hope the other one is still there.

wow, that is a good find. wonder how i missed it?

i looked into this a while ago. get some rear shoulder belts from a loyale wagon.. same body style as yours. you may have to weld a big nut into the frame near the roof to accept the topmost hardware as .. well, my car didn't come with those in the roof. they added them to the body design to keep up with safety regulations, no doubt. the trim pieces may be a slightly different shade of grey or blue (only colors loyale interiors were available in) but they'll be an exact fit and cover any welding you may have to do. the top part may require that bit of welding, again, but the rest of the seatbelt hardware should bolt right in. *should*

HOW DOES HE DO IT? looks great, Eric! start sharing those mint hatches you find with the rest of

thanks guys. date tags aren't important to me, and it sounds like any differences between the belts wouldn't be either.

you can unbolt the compressor and leave the coolant circuit closed; it'll flop over out of the way (don't scratch the paint!) you'll want to pull (and inspect?) the radiator whether you slide the engine forward or pull it all the way out. I don't find it necessary to completely remove it, but it is easier to do all the other stuff if you do. not necessary though. maybe i'm just jealous because i don't have a cherry picker

from Down Under's subaclub: (these look like the best out of what i found) http://www.subaclub.com/TechTalk/protect.htm from some VW site: http://members.ozemail.com.au/~pjlander/CV_Boot_Protectors.htm more info on the VW pieces from a yahoo groups message: http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Syncro/message/6112 (also some neat ideas for belt guards; i wonder if the stock skid plates and splash guards under our subies' fronts would be more than enough though) JC whitney ATV boot guards (these look pretty ineffective, more of a billboard for "oxlite" than a boot guard.. notice that they have a lip on tht outside edges though) http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/ProductDisplay/s-10101/p-5722/c-10101 that appears to be "everything" on the internet about CV boot protection. I think we should have this in the USRM.

I'm looking at getting some brat bed seatbelts from John/suckerking. he has a set of Gen 1s and a set of Gen 2s, and we'd like to clarify any differences so I can look at the right set.. anyone know what to look at? thanks

the first one is an oxidizing catalyst; the second is a reducing catalyst. it is legal in all states except california to replace those two with a single unit designed for that purpose.