baccaruda

hopefully you're not buying these from the dealer! meaning that the dealer clutch cables are usually the best bet. do you have a return spring on the clutch fork? if so, it may be too tight. it is possible that your clutch has a problem internally as well.

you mean your wagon was still an auto?

thanks! i just pulled up the carpet to check for rust... and there isn't any! it looks like i may just have that one fenderwell to worry about. *phew*

he means they should be disengaged if it's not in 4WD, not they should be disengaged and you have to do something special for that. you should be fine. maybe check the gear oil in the differential first.

what, is there a car under there or something?

thanks but mine is for an EA82! check your battery cables for cleanliness or fraying. check your main ground wires: battery to chassis engine to chassis trans to chassis and add a few more ground wires, notice that they are larger gauge wire like 10 or 8 gauge. check your alternator harness for good wires too. andrew/hondasucks had a few extra EA81 digis at one point, and .. hm, I may know where to scare one up. I'll get back to you on that. post here if it turns out that you need to replace it anyway.

my bet is that you missed rotating the crank 180" after putting on the first belt. may I recommend that you read this http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?a=24 and good luck!

check: brake caliper bolts wheel lugs axle nut (re-check ) check the DOJs like Ed says, front and back, sometimes they're sneaky like that um, i've had the slider pads for the brake pads interfere once when i put them in wrong; make sure they aren't rubbing... are you "over there" or "over here" now?

wow. at least you were close to home

i use a flat screwdriver. pop it right out. don't scratch the crank!

a little confused gen one says EA82 gen 2 says EA82 underlined gen 3 says EA82 in a box.

I use a couple squirts of YIELD (thanks again Ed!) in the roll pin hole and a sledge/prybar against the cup and diff. that stuff eats rust for breakfast!

call A-Star distributing here in spovegas. 509-467-6809.. they have good brands like modine and csk (cks? eh.) for cheap. i got my brat's new radiator for $109.67 after tax. i'll pick it up for you and ship it if necessary.

i know a guy who may be interested. call me at 509-263-3853 and let me know what kind of price you'll want after the adjuster tells you it's totalled i'd be interested to know exactly how bad the rear door is. if you can fix it and keep it, i'd be nothing but glad for you. are you sure that you don't want to keep it it for parts?

they're hubcaps

finally got the computer to acknowledge my camera. in celebration you may all bask in adoration of my brat! ..yes, i know it needs a lift kit.

heh.. when i finished getting the kevlar clutch in my ... uh, wagon-before-the-one-it's-in-now, i immediately hopped on the freeway and drove to olympia to pick up skeet and some other people. we don't need no steenking break-in period!

i'm so jealous it hurts!

tell them to check the oil and WW fluid, and tire pressure, and coolant overflow bottle, and wipe off any bird poop (i hated parking under trees!), and clean the license plates and corner lights too. all good reasons to get out of the car and pump your own gas.

hah. that's because you've started 75% of them yeah, the nice thing about bench racing is that nobody has to lose!

there's an easy solution: when you see a thread by WJM (or anyone) that you may not like, then don't read the thread. that's what i do with threads that don't interest or concern me. if you perceive a thread to be problematic, then it is better to comment to a mod in private instead of in the actual thread. will, i'd urge you to ignore this.. it's really not worth an argument..

aargh, i absolutely hate those seals. whoever invented them obviously never had to actually install one, or is a sadist. Mick, I'm going to box up your carpet and HL trims and radio console today, will ship this week. any lead on the other stuff i suggested trading for? *end thread hijack*

you should at least have made him buy your breakfast and give you a get out of jail free card! never know when that might come in handy! (also, it goes to show you how dangerous fast food really is!)

i'm thinking 210 is a reasonable temp for a turbo engine.

you might need to bleed the master cylinder depending on how low your system was. you might need new brake pads as well. and you are supposed to bleed subaru brakes in a pattern of (i think) right rear, left front, left rear, right front.. instead of progressively closer to the master cylinder. many people including myself have had spongy brakes after bleeding them in the "wrong" order. good luck.