baccaruda

subyrally's just jealous. so am i.

get the 1/4" drive version if possible as it's a pretty tight fit in the axle stub.

check the wiring harness where it plugs to the sensor, too. sometimes the wires can separate from the clips and such too.

yes, basically. i took a couple apart when adapting an XT engine into my GL10 and it has a wheel that sort of cams a switch between two closed positions and an open spot in the middle, hence the three wires (on mine at least), and the need to have it zeroed somewhere.

I have a brat that needs new shocks and I've been exploring the same thing. So far, I think that adding EA82 coilovers to a brat (which is going to be extremely lightweight in the rear anyway) might be overkill. if you try and haul too much, you could risk damaging the frame. I'm curious about removing the torsion bars and then installing the EA82 coilovers in the back of a brat. what might be flawed about that idea? anyone? that would give less push to the rear end and in effect it would feel like a stock EA82 setup... since the torsion bars AND coilovers are why it sits up so high and stiff if you swap the coilovers onto an EA81 car.

DO IT you're in the best possible place in the western hemisphere for subaru technical support. there are so many subagurus near you it's not funny. or maybe it is, or both. either way, you won't be sorry. i know I won't be. seriously, if you can afford to pick up the STI, do it or perhaps hook up someone else on the board.

Hi, I have some 14's for sale in the marketplace. here's a link to my post: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=18909 please notice where i talk about the curb rash on a couple of them; I don't want to sell them to someone without them knowing about that. Also please note that I do not have the peugeot lugnuts that normally go with them. Aftermarket lugs are available for around $20 a set, I believe. If you'd like to discuss buying them from me, may i request that you post in the marketplace thread as opposed to this one? and thanks. here is a picture of this style of wheel: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/wheels2/pug14-a.jpg

any of you guys with cooling bugs should install after market gauges and add extra ground wires under the hood. you can even take the aftermarket gauges out after you chase the bugs out, but for now, it's $20 well spent. grounds usually come like this from the factory: battery to chassis OR engine engine to chassis transmission to chassis radiator to frame (more common on older cars) inspect all these and add more in a similar fashion! that will tame your digidash abnormalities.

should fit fine, you'll need linkage and console and electronics and a radiator that accepts the lines to cool the trans (or else mount a cooler somewhere else), maybe other stuff? i don't know much about the autos. also a pedal rack.

these pop up on ebay from time to time http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7912203893&category=6781&sspagename=WDVW someone in spovegas did this to an EA81 hatch, made their own brat. did a decent job of it too.

y'know, that's a really good point about the size of the cams being a big stumbling block. i've read enough of the research that the die-hard EA82t freaks have done that I believe in the bottom end as well, but I know that it's going to take a lot of money spent on custom internals, and most people can't see past that. My 66 Barracuda had a slant six, and I was researching hot rod techniques for inline pushrod 6cyl engines. Everyone who had built them properly - from the ground up as opposed to hotrodding a junkyard block - achieved everything they had forecasted, against as much opposition as will is getting here. of course the engine designs are different, I'm saying that in order to succeed at a project like this, you give yourself the best chance you can, and that means no cutting corners. and sure, you're going to grenade a couple of JY blocks on the way there. if will was just trying to spank STIs with a T4 stapled to a junkyard block, then he would be blowing up an engine every two weeks. that's also fun but the point is that he's waiting to do it right, and he's sharing his research with us as he goes. I think it's disrespectful and ungrateful to trash his project just because an EJ20 swap is cheaper, or because someone else blew up a turbowagon by boosting it improperly and therefore it won't work. after all, everyone knows that a LIFT KIT on a subaru will never work, and why would you try, because they'll never run with jeeps and their weak engines won't let them push bigger tires, right? you'd have to be crazy to be the first to try that.

i'm not sure, but i wouldn't rule out the e-brake as a factor either. you could always disconnect the ebrake cables from the front calipers and try to duplicate the seizing...

keep your chin up, will. i think you can do it, and i know that if somehow it can't be made to happen, that you'll be more pleasant about it than the naysayers are now. have you thought about a loop (or 2) for the driveshaft?

the "sport" edition is probably just decals that a dealership put on it when new. pictures of your car would tell us the whole story though. welcome!

i put anti sieze on the stubs before i put the axle back on that doesn't help if it's your first time servicing a particular stub though. when i put the lsd from my rx in my wagon, i went thru the same thing. i had to take the differential and axle to a garage (at 4pm on a saturday at that, which means that first i had to FIND a garage open at 4pm on a saturday!) and we vised the LSD and the mech. used an air chisel and I had a prybar on the other side.. trashed the stub on the LSD but i just swapped one from the open diff when i got back home. aargh!

it works fine, with the radiator out and a jack under the transmission and a jack under the oil pan. with a Y pipe I'm not sure if you'll have to remove it entirely or just unbolt it from the rear half of the exhaust (and the trans). Basically you remove the battery and radiator, unbolt the motor mounts from under the crossmember, I think you disconnect the air filter snorkus too, and the clutch cable. maybe a couple other things like the pitch stopper. disconnect the exhaust to whatever degree necessary; if you pull the whole Y pipe it's a good time to helicoil the heads for posterity's sake. unbolt the trans and motor. jack the motor up so the mounts' studs are out of the slots in the Xmember, and jack the trans up a little to match the angle. the engine and trans should pry apart fairly easily. bad clutch comes out, new clutch goes in torqued to spec, reverse. maybe i should bring my digital camera, eh?

sounds like it's low on timing belt fluid

heh. i'm waaaaay behind you.

call the better business bureau, any auto related agencies you can think of, and the state attorney general. most lawyers will talk to you on the phone for a few minutes for free too. if all else fails, you could "redecorate" his shop in the middle of the night (JOKING)

don't forget to refill the hole you dug this oldie out of

well, the dash is commonly but not exclusively caused to go bad by a poor charging system. make sure your alternator and battery and battery cables are all up to snuff. check the main ground wires and add a few. your digidash will thank you by working properly

My POS is slower than your POS.

that's a lot of money in plastic sleeve thingys that could be spent on his car! I say clamp the pages, and drill 3 holes with a drill press, and binder that sucker. eating the paste is optional.

schweet, thanks. i bought the elbow piece when i changed the WP anyway.

i have one on my wagon and love it! i have the nipple version so i can run a hose past the skid plate into my receptacle. worth it IMO. cleaner and faster oil changes!