Subarocket
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dual range swap into loyale?
Subarocket replied to Tman1058's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I guess is it worth it is a dumb question as that is up to me to decide. Most tranny swaps seem to be around 7 hours. Would you say that is average for a non-turbo to non-turbo 5 speed swap? -
Where is the Dual Range Conversion Guide?
Subarocket replied to Subarocket's topic in Subaru Retrofitting
Thanks. I guess all the write ups are for non-straight across swaps.- 8 replies
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I hear talk of many 'how to' threads for a EA82 5 speed tranny to D/R 5 speed swap but I can't find them. I find random htreads asking questions but never any how to's. Where might they be located? Link? Thanks
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dual range swap into loyale?
Subarocket replied to Tman1058's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Pulling the engine eh? I was thinking it was a much simpler task from what people were making it out to be. I guess 'just bolts on' doesn't mean quick or easy. I was thinking of getting a shop to do it for me as I just want to drop off my loyale and pick it up with a DR. I don't have time or skills to do this myself. Would it still be worth it to get a garage to do it at $60/hr? -
Straight pipe my Loyale?
Subarocket replied to Subarocket's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Thanks for the great response. On one side of the coin I would love an obnoxiously loud exhaust with a good rumble but I really do appreciate a silent car. My top priority is making it low maintenance though. In the 5 years I've owned my car I've had a new back half installed (after the cat), replaced (with a used part) pretty much the same length from rust taking out a weld near the flanges that connect by the cat (probably should have warranteed the original job), manifold gaskets (routine) and now rattling heat shields everywhere. It obviously wasn't down top to bottom brand new ever but it seems excessive to me. What preventative measures do you recommend? No comment on stainless? -
Can anyone identify this front bumper?
Subarocket replied to BoxerRebellion's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I love the snub nose on these wagons. I've got the same look on mine and it's great! Reminds me of an old Audi Quattro. Do you have to do any mods to power that many lights? I swear my piaa's blew my alternator. -
I live in the rust capital of the world, Golden, BC, and I'm sick of my exhaust rusting to all hell. I've had way too many issues and don't want to deal with it anymore. Between having to drive short distances and a 6 month winter with 3/4" crush and salt on the roads, I'm looking for solutions. I am thinking of getting a stainless steel pipe and removing the cat and muffler for sake of simplicity and to sound neat. Would this affect the back pressure or performance? What would I expect from this and how obnoxiously loud would it be? Does it make sense removing the muffler and cat? All the rust issues seem to be at these points because of condensation or places for salt to sit.
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How come there are so many surprises doing this? I figure by now there must be a standardized way of lifting these things, especially just 2". Does no one have a complete list of everything to do it properly? Great work by the way.
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I am doing a 2" lift on my loyale and am looking at new tires but I can't figure out what will fit. Lots of people say they have 27" with no rub on a 2" and others say they have rub from 27" on a 3" lift. Why the difference? Offset? What would the ideal offset be? Or is it from saggy suspension?
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Ken and Uberoo, thanks again for the great replies. I have turned more wrenches on my Loyale (and 2 parts cars) than any other car I've had but I can't say that it always ends up going well. Regardless, I have learned a ton. I am in the process of buying a rust free 92 loyale (unheard of in these parts) to replace my rust bucket one. I've got a lift kit and am in the process of 6 lug conversion. Lots of ideas for this one since it will be possible and worthwhile to work on because of the lack of rust. It will be used for skiing, biking and carpentry so I hope to do many interesting mods to make it functional, utilitarian and a bit of a camper.
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Ha. Fair enough. I won't be doing much of the work on my car so what I do I want to do right. Otherwise, it would just be embarrassing.
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We don't have that. I am just trying to learn the correct way. I like to think.
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Scott and Uberoo, thanks for the replies. It's nice to just hear that people have thought about this stuff and the reasons for doing it the way they do it. Uberoo, what you say makes sense, it is just funny that it is the complete opposite of the information in the link I posted earlier (which is similar to other bits of info I have found). When drilling the rear drums, is there any reason to weld the unused lug holes closed? Dust, salt, water? It seems to be a fairly sealed unit before and now there are 2 holes in it.
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Monstaru, I am not clear on what I would be asking about engineering tests for? Canada is packed full of a plethora of different engineering tests and facilities that do them. My google list would be large.
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Thanks for the quick replies guys. Also keep in mind that I acknowledge I am taking a car from stock to home made aftermarket so there will be some sacrifices but I am more just checking to see tolerances and what thought processes go into these fairly routine mods. As for centre bore and hub centricity, everything I come across really emphasizes that lugs are not meant to take weight. Lugs are only engineered for lateral forces apparently. With the majority of the lugs not factory drilled it makes question being lug centric even more. http://tires.about.com/od/understanding_wheels/a/hub-centric-vs-lug-centric-wheels.htm It also seems easy enough to find spacers. Are Pugs made with the same centre bore? I'm surprised not everyone has noticed the .3mm difference. To evenly split that difference between two studs seems difficult to me as the slightest torque difference would cause it to shift into the sweet spot of one lug. This then makes me curious as to the true centre when drilling for the other studs. Axel spacers could help with that. Scott, does your jig centre you for a 1/16" pilot hole or does the jig completely stop the bigger bit from wandering?
- 19 replies
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- 6 lugconversion
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I've read up as much as I can find about the 6 lug conversions for my hubs on a 92 Loyale. I have never found anything on the minute difference in the 6 bolt pattern to the 4 bolt and any affect it has. The subaru is 4x140 and from my understanding the 6 bolt is 6 x 139.7. I have rims from a Nissan Pathfinder but am unsure of the year. I have knocked out the 2 opposing lugs and when I bolt the remaining 2 into the rim I can notice that it is not seated perfectly, which I would assume would lead to an unbalanced tire. My car will be doing plenty of highway miles, does this warrant any concerns? Also, the centre bore of the rim is larger than the "axel seats" on the hub. I have never heard of anyone using hub centric spacers to fill this void. This seems extremely important to me as that interface is supposed to bear the weight. Does everyone use these spacers and I just missed it? All the help is appreciated. I am not an experienced car guy and am learning as I go so please be nice!
- 19 replies
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Today I drove my car around until it started making noises. Jacked it up and held the drivers side wheel while I pushed the gas with a 2x4, causing the passenger side to spin. I immediately heard clunking. I went underneath and held the cv axle as I rotated the wheel. Lo and behold I could feel nastiness going on, then just as I was trying to describe, I feel tension in the wheel, feel the axle binding and then see the inner cv bind and shift, pop and release the tension. Exactly as I described it as I was driving. Called napa. Getting an appointment for warranty work. Can't believe it's taken this long. Any recommendations on brands to put back in. They would have to be supplied by napa.
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I had someone else do the work while I was on the road. Went back, they didn't believe me. Said te axle was fine. Blamed it on other things. Still had problems, went to another shop on the road as they were a NAPA dealer and I could warranty it. He hardly looked and blamed it all on my loose inner control arm bushing. I fixed the bushing and the problem is still there. Problem started when the cv joint went in lots of other things have been fixed and problem is still there with cv joint. It's almost as if the knuckle/ joint binds and clunks through a rotation. Sometimes it binds, sometimes it doesn't. It seems to behave for long periods of time and then it goes into a near death shudder. I decided to take it for a 1700km road trip to test it out. My grandma is dying an I sure as hell wasn't taking a bus.
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Is there a sub forum or site for Canadian ea82 fans? Something for parting out cars, junk yard finds, etc?
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I tore the boot on my passenger side front axle. As soon as I got the car back it was making all sorts of noises. Control arm bushing was gone but I didn't believe that was all the noise. Replaced bushing. Still have noise and crazy shuddering. The axle has play between it and the splines in the trans axle. The noise it makes when wiggled is similar to the noise it makes when it shudders. I can't find any play anywhere else except for the sway bar- control arm bushing. 2 garages have told me the cv is fine but I watched and they really didn't look into it. Would this play be a faulty cv? No clicking noise but plenty of others and good shuddering. Problems are intermittent too:(
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I tore the boot on my passenger side front axle. As soon as I got the car back it was making all sorts of noises. Control arm bushing was gone but I didn't believe that was all the noise. Replaced bushing. Still have noise and crazy shuddering. The axle has play between it and the splines in the trans axle. The noise it makes when wiggled is similar to the noise it makes when it shudders. I can't find any play anywhere else except for the sway bar- control arm bushing. 2 garages have told me the cv is fine but I watched and they really didn't look into it. Would this play be a faulty cv? No clicking noise but plenty of others and good shuddering. Problems are intermittent too:(
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I am looking for new bushings for my lower control arm in a 92 Loyale. Lordco and Napa have nothing. Any ideas where to find some? Thanks. Located in Golden, BC
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Spare parts off a 96 Legacy for a 92 Loyale?
Subarocket replied to Subarocket's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
ya, not really looking to do a swap. Was just checking to see if starter, alternator, brake MC etc could be bolt on. Thanks for the feedback