-
Posts
7 -
Joined
-
Last visited
About crookeam
- Birthday 04/03/1979
Profile Information
-
Gender
Not Telling
-
Location
Boston, MA
-
Vehicles
'85 GL Turbo
crookeam's Achievements

Newbie (1/11)
2
Reputation
-
Hi Crookeam, I left a message about the Subaru you had posted for sale, I was wondering if you still had it and how much you was asking for it
-
Guys, it's a 1985 GL (yes, Loyale 2.7 Turbo, it's the same one you saw!) built in 10/84 as an '85 model. The car is relatively new to me...18 months or so...and the PO could have made aesthetic changes before my ownership. I have tested 3 identical distributors, and hopefully all 3 Ignition Control Modules aren't fried!! This is the rebuilt model I bought from Advance, and all 3 look like this. http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_distributor--electronic--remanufactured-cardone_3852466-p?cm_mmc=ET-_-Trans-_-Confirmation-_-General# I can attach actual photos of the other 2 if necessary. Still not getting spark at the coil. Gloyale, PM me regarding OEM coil and include your personal email if you are still interested! Thanks!!
-
grossgary, thanks for the instrument cluster tip. I'll check the driver's side belt again, though the distributor does turn while cranking...
-
Thanks again Gloyale and jono. I have not tried a stock coil, as they are very expensive on subarupartswarehouse.com... Any suggestions of where to get one on the cheap? And the KCM is metal gold zinc, so it must be the Hitachi setup.
-
Thanks Gloyale. I was told it was a NipponDenso because it has the 4 wire setup under the rotor. Wires connect to the Ignition Control Module if I'm not mistaken. It does have one vac advance. That said, I have tested 3 distributors, 2 coils, and two cap/rotor combos. Coil is very warm... It hasn't run since Sept/Oct. It would start intermittently, and then it just never started again. Since then I have replaced the coil, cap/rotor, battery, and digital gauge cluster. I have also checked all corresponding wiring, etc. and changed coolant, engine oil, and thermostat. As I mentioned above, no tach signal with all wires attached to coil, but if I remove the black lead from coil - I will get a tach reading of 200-250RPM while cranking. Still no spark at coil.
-
Hi all, and thanks for all the responses! I just want to clarify some build specs on my specific vehicle. ALL original, except for replacement parts (cap/rotor, battery, coil (Accel 8140), distributor and ICM, etc). I have the 4 wire Nippondenso dizzy, and have tried 3 separate units, including a known good rebuilt unit. Same result with all of them. There is no external power transistor, just the tiny black noise suppression capacitor for AM radio interference. The rotor does not require or allow for a screw. Two black/white wires from distributor and harness, as well as noise suppression capacitor are connected to coil +. Two yellow wires from distributor and harness, as well as the thick black wire from harness are connected to coil -. I do not get movement on the tach while cranking with either of my digital dash clusters connected. However, I get a tach reading with that thick, black harness wire disconnected from coil - !! The coil also gets quite warm with ignition on, not necessarily even cranking the motor. I have tried running an additional ground from coil - to chassis, and it sparks! ?? The loose connector from the distributor is a black/white or black/yellow wire with a single female plastic connector clip. I have a separate KCM buried behind the glove box, that I have removed and inspected. Fusible links are all good, as are all fuses and the alternator cable. I have wired the car with and without the AM radio capacitor. I have traced all wiring from the coil and distributor and checked for continuity and insulation. I have removed both front fenders and traces wiring looms in both directions. What am I missing here?
-
Hi All, I have a gorgeous 1985 Turbo Sedan in incredible condition inside and out, but the car hasn't been starting for months. And a snowy Boston winter is when I need it most! Car can be seen here: http://www.checkoutthiscar.com/2012/09/pleasant-pleiades-83k-mile-1985-subaru_14.html I hate to see the car garaged and not running, and I bought this little mountain goat to use it!! Just to preface, this is my first post, though I've read every last thread I could find related to this subject. I must be missing SOMETHING, but I can't figure it out. I've been at this for literally five weeks and I feel like I'm at a dead end. Here goes... Car cranks but no spark at coil. Primary and secondary circuits are within spec on a new Accel 8140(?) coil. Coil reads ~12V at both + and - terminals. Importantly, the tach does not respond when cranking. I have tried 2 separate digital gauge clusters to no avail. Coil is connected as follows: black/white from distributor to + 12V from harness (black/white) to + yellow from distributor to - yellow from harness to - thick black ground from harness to - I have a loose plastic connector from distributor not connected (what is this?) I have tried 3 separate distributors. Original, junkyard, and rebuilt/tested from Advance Auto Parts. Same problem with each = no spark at coil. Tested all HT leads from coil to distributor and cap to plugs. All good. Cleaned all pickups on old cap and rotor. Tried new cap and rotor. Took off both fenders and tested continuity of all wires through engine compartment and under dash, etc. I cannot locate a fault anywhere! I've installed a new battery and have not checked the charging system since the car won't fire. I'm getting fuel and the pump functions with green connectors attached, and also as the starter is cranking. Pressure and compression are great and consistent among all cylinders. Timing is set properly, and rotor points at #1 cylinder when flywheel is at TDC. I'm sure I've gone through other systems and sensors over the past 5 weeks as well, but they're escaping me at this point... Please let me know if anyone has any suggestions for me. I'll be forever indebted! Many thanks, Andrew