wtdash

^...I just saw this as my USMB notifcations haven't worked - in years. But not much help here...if you have 'high oil content' the CC isn't going to neutralize that, IMHO, and you may end up fouling a replacement O2 sensor.

Be prepared for the stink of exhaust. My '98 runs no cats (turbocharged>>exhaust) and can't drive around w/the windows down b4 it gets too much. Thankfully the AC works.

Yeah...used knuckle FTW, in my experience. And Subaru used the same one on many vehicles, esp. the front. There was change around '02 in how the ABS sensor was mounted (and the tone ring), and they're not easily interchangeable.

Congrats! - I'd read up on other sites about other gotchas for the '05-'09s. I know the rear (?) suspension bushings wear out, the headlight bulbs like to burn out quickly, but nothing that would likely strand you...of course, AK is a big state. Hopefully they changed all the idlers/pulleys and water pump w/the belt. If not, I'd add that to your list. That's still an interference engine.

AFAIK, that year still used the open loop/closed loop tuning in the ECU. Which means it's running off 'set values' 'til it warms up, then starts reading the sensors - such as O2. I don't want to be the one that suggests an O2 sensor - and it not fix the issue. If you do, it should be OEM or Denso quality. Also, the CTS/temp sensor can cause issues like you described. Ideally you'd have an OBD2 reader/scanner - even the low-end $ ones can read 'live data' for O2 voltage and CTS temps.

Hi Larry, 99% sure they'll fit the front; 'might' work on the rear - or hit the bottom of the strut perch. Depends on the wheel's offset, too.

Hi, Not my area of knowledge, but if you look up the parts on a Subaru site like parts.subaru.com, you can cross-reference part #. or like Rockauto. And Why are your swapping parts, rusty? Good luck

Can't help w/the interior other than same years between Forester and Impreza may swap. Seats: For the front, your '02 has the same seat mounting points as all 1990-2004 Legacy, 1992-2007 Impreza and 1998-2008 Foresters. Some of the seats sit higher/lower than other models, but they bolt in. Rear seats are not my forte. Unlikely the Crosstrek seats will bolt up as is. If you're creative and can weld they could likely be made to fit, but the connectors for airbags, seat heaters, power seats, seatbelts may not interchange.

Please post a pic of the 'original paperwork' (block out any personal info). Also a pic of the VIN/chassis tag by the USA/Canada driver's side (LEFT) front strut tower. Here:

Legacy AT trans (4EAT) is most likely NOT compatible. The WRX Auto trans had a 'weird' gear ratio and likely had different electronics so the TCU/TCM wouldn't 'read' the other trans correctly. But according to online Subie parts sites the torque converter/TC MIGHT work, and double-check your Flex Plate will bolt-up before installing. Make Sure you know how to 'seat' the TC as it's a tricky part to install.

Good job...I would have sworn the '96 was interference (1st year of the single-port exhaust heads), but maybe '97+ had the interference pistons w/its higher CR.

HI, 'The 92-'94 (both turbo and non-turbo) were unfortunately 3.9 final drive ratio/FDR, which makes them a rare 4EAT. '90, '91 and '95-'98 EJ22E engines were 4.11. As far as the transmissions compatible w/your transmision control module/TCM/ trans computer, '90-'98 EJ22 (and maybe EJ18) cars will work , but you'll need the matching rear diff and the flex plate for the torque converter/TC. The '96-'98 Auto EJ25D cars will have a 4.44 FDR and require a matching diff - Legacy OB/GT/LSi/SUS, '98 Forester and Impreza RS, and will also work.

Hey...I don't get notifications so didn's see your responese (Yes, I have them turned on). Flexplate must match the transmision's torque converter. The 2.2 was different than the 2.5, in my experience (IIRC the '91-'94 EJ22T turbo was different too, but that's a tangent.) Per 'Idosubaru' from 2013: "been a little while but flexplate stays with the trans - so typically - install EJ25 flexplate on EJ22engine going into EJ25 vehicle." So, The flexplate has to match the torque converter's 4 bolt holes alignment (the 8 center crank bolts are all the same on EJ engines - Auto and 5-speeds). Per another quote on here: "2.2l torque converter is smaller, so it uses a "deep dish" flexplate. 2.5l torque converter is bigger, so it uses a flatter flexplate. Put the 2.5l flexplate with a 2.2l converter and it will pull the converter back too far out of the trans. "

Hi, I'm probably less 'electrically inclined' than you, but my understanding is the crank and cam sensors only monitor the magnetic pulse as the cam and crank's triggers spin by. There's no voltage involved, I believe. The ONLY codes (CEL) now are for the camshaft, correct? Older Subies have a bad habit of spitting out unrelated codes when something fails. Like the CTS you got above when the fuel pump failed. Probably due to how little the ECU actually monitored back then vs. some of today's cars tell you when you take your eyes off the road. As you've likely discovered, the '90-'94 engine harness that connects to all the sensors on the top of the engine and the intake manifold/IM are hard wired end-to-end. So, I'd think you'd need to find the complete wiring harness off another '90-'91. The IM harness connectors at the battery differ based on years '90-'91 were either round or square and '92-'94 were the other style (Thanks! Subaru 😞 ), so not easily swappable. For the '95-'98 models the Crank/Cam sensors have plug connectors at the sensors and wiring for the TPS is different, so that makes them unusable, AFAIK. But you might be able to retrofit the sensors and wiring for just the Cam and Crank, if you have a PullNSave-type lot in your area*. I think (!) the wiring to the cam/crank sensors has two wires, but one is actually just 'shielding' which isn't needed (as long as you're not running a bare wire end-to-end), so should just be able to replace that section with one wire. FWIW, on a previous project I bought some wiring at Home depot that was composed of approx. 4-6 wires in the loom(?) - not sure what the term is - that I then used to extend from the ECU to the sensors I was using. Worked fine for years. You could do something similar, but accessing the ECU/computer under the dash is a real PITA. Been there didn't like it. Here's a link to the ECU pinout - if you get that motivated: https://www.surrealmirage.com/vrg3/ecupins/ *Portland area should be 'Subaru Central', right? 🙂

-Battery? verify no corrosion on terminals. -Check grounds - Subarus have them in multiple places around the engine. And on my Forester, w/the same CS sensor and same code - P0335- I had a loose connector that caused a no start one day...but likely just forgot to 'click it' when I last worked on the engine.

Not sure how cold it gets in MD, but in north ID (below 0° F in winter on occasion), I've had no issues bypassing the hoses that go to the TB/throttle body. My understanding is those help warm the TB in colder weather. "the compromise is the chance of a stuck throttle when, say coming off the highway after a long drive in arctic conditions" I just connected the two that go to the TB with a splice or cap them off if easier. Also, I've never had to replace a TB gasket in the many times I've removed the TB - do it carefully and it hasn't ripped/torn in my experience. If you remove the locking nuts to hold the throttle/cruise cables to the TB note the cables' location b4 removal - or your idle may be off.

Hey...'98 OB Automatic/4EAT had the 4.44 FDR/Final drive. Only the '96-'98 Auto EJ25D cars will match up directly - Legacy OB/GT/LSi/SUS, '98 Forester and Impreza RS. '90-'98 EJ22 (and maybe EJ18) cars will work, but you'll need the matching rear diff (3.9 and 4.11 were mixed in) and the flex plate for the TC.

That '03 'might' be compatible w/ ROMRAIDER and ECUFLASH, if you can find a Tuner that knows what they're doing. That's a unique setup - so might take some work to get it tuned. IMHO, really depends on how much boost you're running, whether a tune would be needed. That's also a MAP-based system (vs. MAF) and I've read those are finicky about running boost. I'd definitely run Premium - 91+ - Unleaded.

...and there is a post on here (?) or online about the '4EAT power mode' hack for the Phase 2. Not going to make more power but may make is seem more peppy. As noted above, ensure all the maintenance items are up-to-date. Low miles but 24 years old - replace on age if not miles. Plugs and wires - NGK /Denso only- may help. Also, if you're suspension is getting soft, it'll make it feel slower. From my experience these should have decent initial acceleration...off the line...but then reality of a non-turbo 4 cylinder moving a 3400+# wagon gets in the way...as do hills.

C.Fan - might be the front cooling fans, but would think that would be in fuse under the hood. Note: I just read that there can be one fuse for a Relay and another for the Power. Cargo socket would (likely) be the rear '12v' power socket. Personally, I'd just tap into the '12V plug' shown. I've installed 3 dash cams and never had an issue blowing it when I used the 12v and dash cam simultaneously.

Not sure on that. It might go into 'limp mode' and add extra fuel as a safety mechanism.

'96 is in Open Loop (ECU Programming) when cold - doesn't use the O2 sensors 'til it's warmed up and goes Closed Loop - from what I've read on here and other sites. I don't see in this thread where you changed the Coolant Sensor (there are two and you want the Sensor to the ECU not the Sender to the gauge). Mounted on the passenger side of the coolant cross-over under the intake manifold. Admittedly your temps sound right "engine coolant temp" 25>>180°F. Also, get another MAF - not sure how available used they are up in AK, but any non-turbo Subaru '92 -'98/'99 with the 2.2 or 2.5 will have the green 22680 AA160 JECS or 22680 AA160F AUTECS MAF.

1998 Forester, 267K miles. This part: -Edit: 12/3/23. It's the spade connector at the gauge. I pushed it (not sure it actually moved) and the gauge started to work. Weird as I'd done that before and no change at the gauge. About a month ago, It stop working consistently. Go up to the normal -just below half setting- and then drops all the way down. And this last week nothing - doesn't budge. I've tried two other senders - one used and one new - and they both worked initially, but then nothing the next day I checked it. I've visually checked the wiring which appears fine. Does the dash cluster gauge ever fail? I've never come across this issue and only pulled one cluster on a '96 Legacy, so not sure if the gauge section is even accessible? Maybe a solder joint has gotten weak, etc? Thanks

Everyone else on here must be psychic, What year and model you working on?

^Thanks for the reply. It's RPM dependent - cold and warm - it changes w/the idle speed - and isn't any worse sounding when revved - even to 6K. And is concentrated over Cylinder 4 area. Above (in my post) is cold start. Here is the warmed-up: