wtdash
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Everything posted by wtdash
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OM: http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Legacy_Outback/1998/Owners Manual/ It's a '98 but '99 is very similar. FWD fuse is under the hood by the passenger side strut tower. -
Gotcha...Duty-C isn't 'smart'...it just varies its amount of engagement on input from TCU, and reports back...If it's not reporting back =AT Temp light flash
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If you check the FWD fuse and it's mechanical, I'd spend the $$ on 2-3 gallons of ATF (and I noted your ATF looks good): .....and then go drive it in figure 8's in a parking lot - and not the interstate :-). Sometimes it'll free it up...yes, it worked for me. Your car has obviously sat a lot w/those low miles, so may just need some new ATF and some drive-time. Also, I DO NOT recommend it being power or chemically flushed by a shop as it can cause issues w/the seals in an older trans...I lost Reverse...yes, yes, I did...and had to have it rebuilt. :-(
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Maybe I missed it and GD is (very) Likely correct, but the flashing AT light tells you there is a code stored in the TCU (trans computer), which is separate from the ECU. SEARCH on here/online to find out how to retrieve the actual code...also called a 'handshake'. Use the FWD fuse under the hood - you read the Owner's Manual, right ?? - to determine if it's mechanical (clutch pack(s)) or eletronic (Duty C). If the TB/torque bind goes away w/the FWD fuse IN it's the clutch packs.....you can guess the other option. :-) GL, TD p.s. you ran an Autocheck or Carfax to confirm those extremely low 46K miles?
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I probably suggest this too often: CTS - coolant temp sensor. Remember - on yours there is the single wire for the gauge and next to it is the actual sensor to the ECU....you want the latter.
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Yes, But, Do Not Buy. Those are cheap for a reason...they're cheap. And the 5 5-star reviews all read like some ONE (person) used Google translate for us gullible Americans. You'd be better served to buy a set of WRX '02-'07 struts and 'ghetto' the rear mount holes to fit them (you'll need to enlarge 2 about 1/4-1/2").
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Phase 1 vs Phase 2
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I 'think' that the '99 had the issues w/the cluster wiring - surface solder joints get disconnected w/age. Read this...https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1785548. some of it may be relevant. I'd bet if you fix the P0500, the others go away.
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1. Yes, if you plan to replace the ENTIRE harness, it MIGHT work. 2. You likely will have wiring, sensor and all kinds of other headaches. Have you been doing swaps for years and can do it in your sleep?Although everything should bolt together, the wiring is way different, both ON THE ENGINE, ON THE TRANSMISSION and between the ECU, TCU (trans computer), and DASH harness. 3. Likely won't pass emissions testing. 4. Likely will not run correctly. 5. It's just a bad idea. 6. Main issue is you're 'crossing phases'. '96 is a Phase 1 Subaru electronics; '04 is Phase 2.
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HI...again, I didn't notice (or you've updated it in the last year) that you're in the UK.....so not something us Yanks know much about. Google: Transmission TZ102ZA5AA - Subaru Impreza 1997, 1998, Subaru Impreza, Outback Sport (Station Wagon) 1997, 1998, I think this for the 2.2. vs. TZ102ZR5AA SUBARU IMPREZA 2,0 4X4- 1998 Did the UK get the 2.2 AND the 2.0 - NON-turbo engines?
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Check the injector's resistance. Should be about 11-12 ohms? Same injectors as on the '92-'98 2.2, too.
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Well done. :-)
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See this....if you have this code, likely a wire got cut:
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Get the code from the TCU and that'll help. The fact that the FWD fuse does nothing indicates the Duty C is dead, but if it was fine b4 the HG repair.......should be good now. Yeah...I always use a 2x6 or similar now, too.
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If you used a jack on the trans pan....did that once (and only once)...you likely dented it and damaged a wire, etc. on the valve body inside it. In my case, I managed to break a wire. Dropped the pan, Soldered it back together, knocked out the dent, and reinstalled the pan....no more blinking.
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MYSTERY MISFIRE ISSUES ... 2002 Legacy Wagon 5sp MT
wtdash replied to PDX Bryan's topic in NA Fuel Injection Engine Tech
so...What was the 'missing link'? My guess is/was the CatCon.. -
You replaced this part: Is this an AWD? the '96 was the last year of FWD and it had Traction Control/TC that the AWD didn't. 100% sure it has ABS? Wasn't on all models that year, per CARS101.com. This site may help, beware it's PG-13 rated..
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Phase 1 vs Phase 2 And search on 'frankenstein' or is that frankenstine?
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We're responding to this comment....if you put in a VehicleSpeedSensor (the correct one for your car), this wouldn't be an issue.
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Look on NASIOC and legacyGT.com for more info. I looked into this same swap on '98 Forester turbo project, but never got it done. 2005 GT 'should' be a 4.11 (OB XT was 4.44) and should match your stock rear diff...( the GT had VLSD). Very good trans from what I remember reading. 4 trans in 6 years???///WTH. These are not weak trans. And you '98 will run in 'limp' mode w/out the VSS hooked up....unless you're running a Megasquirt or similar EM? Not a direct swap, but some info: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/5mt-replacement-questionsiii-subaru-transmission-gurus-needed-262690.html Here's one I remembered on NASIOC for a '97 GT.....99% same as your '98 (GT has different gear ratios, but same FD ratio) : https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?p=22564870#post22564870
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Dude! Phase 1 vs Phase 2 = no go. You don't state it, but the 4.44 was in the Automatic OB's so guessing their both AT. You''ll need to stick w/the '96-'98 2.5 cars LGT, RS and Forester would work, too.
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.02: the wider the gap the better the combustion. From HERE: So, run the widest gap you can that doesn't cause issues - knock, etc. Remember the MFG recommends what works for all their vehicles and commonly available fuel....doesn't mean it's optimum for YOUR car.
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As noted, go find another P2 2.5, verify history (not overheated, much), do the HG and put in the Roller. Sell that 2.2 to another EJ25D Swapper. We're probably seeing the decline of the swap popularity due to the age of these ol' Subies, but if the 2.2 is still 100% should be worth $350+ in CO?
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Try searching...in here: http://main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/
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Check the codes, because: power light flash - search on 'handshake' etc. to get the info. Or THIS> If the FWD fuse 'works' and TB goes away, it's just the clutches = Mechanical. If it doesn't - it's @ least the Duty C solenoid = Electrical.
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