wtdash

+1 on Year/Trim - Subarus came w/different engines and some were more (in)famous then others. If yours has the EJ25D from the '96-'99 OB/GT you may have Head Gasket issues in your future. But sounds like yours is a Legacy Brighton w/the venerable 2.2/ EJ22E...the best engine, IMHO.

Howdy, HEADS UP on adjusting the Subie accessory belts - P/S, Alt, AC - as they have another bolt that 'locks' them in place - common to break the actual adjuster bolt if the lock bolt is not loosened.

terminals

Did some online looking, as I was curious and this site shows the downpipe/DP called a 'center pipe' (item #10) ??? Hmmm.... Anyway, that part is specific to the '05 OB. I'd do some more comparisons on that Subaru link above to see what parts from a newer OBXT may interchange, too. It shows that the 5-speed vs. Automatics are different...and the 5-speed version is Disco'd! Here's a used one online for $250. However, I'd head over to 'subaruoutback.org' or to Legacygt.com and see what others have done for exhaust options. Likely you can find what will interchange or a better upgrade option. If you didn't already know ......If you do get the idea to upgrade your exhaust for better performance - especially the DP - you'll want to get your car tuned for that. I'd recommend a tune anyway, but that may be hard to come by in 'truckland TX'.

The Forester and WRX will likely be similar but too short and the exhaust hangers won't match up. Here's one on ebait, depending on what all you need. Depending on TX emission rules/regs you can have a local shop redo the whole thing, too. If the Cats need replaced you can find those online, too. Don't go to the dealer for exhaust stuff unless your heart medication is working well. :-)

I wouldn't unless it's getting close to 200K, but that's just a #. Plan on full tbelt +idlers, etc, WP, reseal the Oil pump w/new crank seal and o-ring, cam seals (?), rear separator plate (swap to metal if it's plastic), rear main is usually not an issue. If you have to swap intakes, get IM gaskets, and I'd also put in a new oil pressure sensor/sender. Adjust the valves if it's a '97 or '98 w/the SLA...might want to bleed the HLA's if it's been sitting. New NGK coppers are cheap. Plus whatever else you find recommended on here/online.

>>>And '98 is the same engine as the '96-'98 Legacy and Impreza 2.5 and electronics as the 2.2. The green label maf from any 2.2 or 2.5 Subaru from '92-'98 will work.

The good news is that a 2.2 is the best subaru engine to buy USED. You've seen this site? http://www.car-part.com/cgi-bin/search.cgi You can use the earlier '90-'95 too...just need a dual-port header pipe....and re-use your IM / intake manifold. I have bumped into a couple of fitment issues w/the PS bracket and maybe the AC/Alternator bracket - get both (and keep your newer Knock sensor, too).

Doh! Shoulda/coulda remembered that! good job! the fans shoulda been cycling and all sensors clicking.

NO offense,....If this is an Automatic, are U sure it's the CEL and not the Power or AT temp light?? And '95 was the OBD1>OBD2 transition. I think all 1995 2.2 Subarus were OBD2,...but not 100%. I believe the '95 Impreza 1.8 was still OBD1.

And '99 Legacy could have two kinds...2.2 or 2.5? 2.5 is the same Green Label JECs/AUTECS MAF used on Subarus from '92-'98/'99. But yeah, the '99 2.2 was a unique year....did you look @ Foresters (2.5 but phase 2 electronics) and Imprezas?

To change plugs: A search found this: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/111-gen-1-1995-1999/390178-how-i-changed-my-spark-plugs-ej25d-tips-future-readers.html It's a PITA on the EJ25D engine in you OB......done it, didn't like it. Your engine is in the '96-'99 OB/GT/LSi, '98 Forester and '98 Impreza RS Buy the NGK platinum plugs which are good for 60K or if you're cheap get the copper version and do 'em again in 30K miles. RE: the misfire? see Lucky's info above, but I'd also guess the valves have never been adjusted as that's also a PITA, or worst case scenario you have a burnt valve...been there, fixed that w/a 2.2 (EJ22e) swap.

Foz = Fozzie = Forester...google. Intake and it's wiring need to match the '03...so keep the '03.

Hmmm. not sure why no one has responded...although this is covered elsewhere. The Phase2 2.2 in your '99 should work if you swap the intake manifold from the Foz and the exhaust manifold from the Imp. If the Foz is an Automatic use its flex-plate. I'd also do the HG while it's out as that Phase 2 will likely have issues like the 2.5's.

1996-99 Forester, OB, GT, Impreza RS....easiest choices- direct swap and all 'hydro'/ hydraulic clutch. The RS and GT will have a gear ratio for 'shorter' tires. 2000--04-ish should work, but the FD ratio's get 'fuzzy'. Sometime around the 2004 year most Subes lost the gear-driven speedo - probably a work-around. The early '02-''05 (?) WRX (turbo) 5-speeds are a PULL type clutch and you'll need a PUSH as you noted...in case you were thinking. Whether the new FB-series engines' 5-speeds will work w/your EJ-series engine is not listed in my 'database' (memory). You live in freakin' Subie-central there in Vancouver - near Portland AND Seattle. No shortage of donors, I'd surmise. This chart may (or not) still be useful, as I've not personally reviewed it: http://www.gearhack.com/myink/ViewPage.php?file=docs/Subaru Transmission Chart Here's a pic of parts you may also need for the clutch: http://opposedforces.com/parts/forester/us_s10/type_11/manual_transmission/clutch/illustration_1/ Unlikely you'll need the master or slave cylinders. .....- make sure you don't push the clutch pedal with everything disconnected....read that's a bad idea. Td

That. is. weird. Sounds like it's mis-aligned in there somewhere and it's 'bouncing off' the bottom 'stop' setting'. It then stops - maybe a self-reset or similar - to keep from burning out the motor. Pulling the inner door panel isn't too tough and you might be able to see what's going on.

Hi, Usually due to vacuum leak(s). Put a smoke / pressure tester on it to find them all and fix. Td

FWIW, the '05+ generation have a less stellar history than their predecessors, based on what I've read on here. Just a higher # of minor - .05&.10 - stuff. And they still had the potential HG issues due to the EJxxx series engine.... As SOA (subaru of america) got bigger their quality may have taken a hit about this time. Maintenance history? Get the heads checked regardless, and usually best to find a 'real' Subaru mech /tech - not a generic shop.

Probably wait for the Mechs to show up, as I've not done anything newer than an '04 XT. But since it's 'stil an EJ-series' it should (?) just come out like you see 'em on ebay. Remove the front accessory belts, and set the power steering and AC stuff off to the sides - Still attached to their hoses. Remove the Downpipe>Turbo and Up Pipe if necessary to get to the pass. side bolts....wait...does the '10 FXT have the turbo down underneath like the Legacy GT?? Like here: http://efilogics.com/customer/4 - Subaru Customers/AlexM_2010LGT/AlexM_2010LGT_10.JPG Still stock turbo? Maybe time to rebuild / replace that too.

EDIT: Attached pic of actual spoiler mount for posterity. >>Never mind - incorrect: If the top is anything like a Forester ( and it should be similar), they do screw into the top of the rear hatch. You'll maybe find a template online. Look over on rS25.com or NASIOC where the Imprezas roost. Because of the angles, I'd be very hesitant to just 'guess' on that one. The attached is for the 1st Gen Forester...not going to be the same, but might help (or not). FORESTER SF5(98-02) Rear Spoiler Instructions SOA.pdf

HI, that remote picture is for the '99+ models. Sometimes that brown button is still tucked up under the dash. As I 'think' this was a dealer-installed option, the actual keyless and security boxes should be under the dash, too. Trace the wires for that button from there. Per Cars101.com it was an option: Keyless Remote entry - $225. with alarm $350. (made by Code Alarm) You need this fob: http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html#code alarm We need the actual CODE to help w/the Evap issue. Td

All the Phase 1 trans TCUs for USDM should interchange, but w/JDM??? Good question. What's the Trans ID on top of the bellhousing - should start with "TZ...." like, TZ102Z1CAA. Also, look on the rear diff, as it may show the ratio. It was shown on older Subarus...not sure when it stopped.

Read this: Car and Driver Review Specifically: Did you test drive any other cars first (not a criticism)? Subarus are 'laggy'.....You might consider a tune, but it'll probably 'null and void' your warranty. TD

...can you just swap in a different rear diff w/the 3.9 since you're RWD? ebay will show ratio....Not 100% sure as it has a weird 1.1:1 center diff, but the '02-'08 (?) WRX or STi should have a 3.9 or 3.54. Also, the old SVX had a 3.54, if you find one, but be aware that around '95 the bolt pattern on the pinion flange on the rear diff changed on Subarus - @ least in the USA. The flange can be changed...with the right tools/puller (?).

Go to NASIOC.com and read the Unabomber posts for newbs. Here: https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=533787 Don't return 'til you've read them all. :-) Good luck, Td