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don't know what '8 mm d flat profile' means, but the TPS are not all the same. Depends on year/engine, and since you're Downunder you might even have other options. From Wikipedia:

Hi, welcome to site. More searching here and online will get you an answer. But the short answer is No. Not 'drop in'. 2006+ had i-AVLS on the heads, so that means a no to. Also the wiring is different. And the intake manifold due to an older style...but technically it'll bolt up. I'd guess the shortblock might work, but I also just read on here that the 2009+ blocks may be different enough to cause issues. Best option is find 2009+ EJ2.5 - watch out for the PZEV versions as they're also different. And it depends on how much of the engine is toast - just the shortblock? Or the heads too. Remember the HG issue..any USED engine is susceptible.

P.s. Go look on LegacyGT.com (Legacy GT, OB H6 and others w/the integrated HVAC/HU share the same issue) for more info (or google it), but yeah...you're basically scre.....>>>unlucky to have this year and want a HU/receiver upgrade.

Just a side-note. the EJ18 EGR pipe may not work/fit right on an EJ22 (I've never had/worked on one). Here's how to bypass it on an EJ22, but not sure if the EJ18 'likes it'. Also, RS25.com is dedicated to Imprezas and may have this covered, too.

Hi, Just to add/heads up, SOME parts places will call it an 'Outback' whiles others note it as a "Legacy Outback". Depends on whom you ask. And each state has its own labeling method so titles are not always reliable sources. td

No issues buying on ebait if buying name-brand (AND Seller's feedback). KYB is the best. There are lots of online installs for these. Unless yours are clunking, the tophats (strut mounts) may be fine. Depending on your shopping skills (and patience) I recently bought all new for a different car. All KYB and found better prices shopping around on Amazon and Rockauto (RA). RA 5% code: 8605686777408527 and KYB's have a rebate per their site.

Disclaimer: have not driven any Subaru this new w/the 4EAT or 5EAT. Assuming this is a NON-turbo? Not an XT, correct? I'd start w/the AT service - up to date? You're in the high country so you're down on power anyway you look @ it, but I wouldn't expect 2nd to be 'that' bad. I'm confused as to why it wouldn't shift to 3rd in the mtns...see attached shows that 3rd should be good to 99 MPH (assuming that's Redline). SOHC Boxers have a pretty flat torque band, so it shouldn't have a high RPM 'kick' like a DOHC or turbo. You could try resetting the ECU/TCU by unplugging the Neg battery for 30 minutes (NOTE: you'll lose your radio presets, MIGHT have to re-program your keyless fobs, etc.). This doesn't 'fix' anything but If it runs better/different initially then you may a problem....it'll revert back to the same behavior after a few miles. But these are generally reliable transmissions. Go test drive another Subaru w/the same trans for comparison?

Personally, I"d grab something from a '96-'99 OB/GT/Forester w/the EJ25D and 4EAT. The trans is likely plugnplay (get the TCU) + the rear diff swap is a 4.44 FD ratio which will increase your RPM's and make it quicker off the line. You'll lose the VLSD of the stock rear diff...but it's probably dead on the stock car anyway. Go checkout www.subaru-svx.net/ for specifics. If you want to tackle the 5-speed swap, that would elevate its performance even more.

+1 on Year/Trim - Subarus came w/different engines and some were more (in)famous then others. If yours has the EJ25D from the '96-'99 OB/GT you may have Head Gasket issues in your future. But sounds like yours is a Legacy Brighton w/the venerable 2.2/ EJ22E...the best engine, IMHO.

Howdy, HEADS UP on adjusting the Subie accessory belts - P/S, Alt, AC - as they have another bolt that 'locks' them in place - common to break the actual adjuster bolt if the lock bolt is not loosened.

terminals

Did some online looking, as I was curious and this site shows the downpipe/DP called a 'center pipe' (item #10) ??? Hmmm.... Anyway, that part is specific to the '05 OB. I'd do some more comparisons on that Subaru link above to see what parts from a newer OBXT may interchange, too. It shows that the 5-speed vs. Automatics are different...and the 5-speed version is Disco'd! Here's a used one online for $250. However, I'd head over to 'subaruoutback.org' or to Legacygt.com and see what others have done for exhaust options. Likely you can find what will interchange or a better upgrade option. If you didn't already know ......If you do get the idea to upgrade your exhaust for better performance - especially the DP - you'll want to get your car tuned for that. I'd recommend a tune anyway, but that may be hard to come by in 'truckland TX'.

The Forester and WRX will likely be similar but too short and the exhaust hangers won't match up. Here's one on ebait, depending on what all you need. Depending on TX emission rules/regs you can have a local shop redo the whole thing, too. If the Cats need replaced you can find those online, too. Don't go to the dealer for exhaust stuff unless your heart medication is working well. :-)

I wouldn't unless it's getting close to 200K, but that's just a #. Plan on full tbelt +idlers, etc, WP, reseal the Oil pump w/new crank seal and o-ring, cam seals (?), rear separator plate (swap to metal if it's plastic), rear main is usually not an issue. If you have to swap intakes, get IM gaskets, and I'd also put in a new oil pressure sensor/sender. Adjust the valves if it's a '97 or '98 w/the SLA...might want to bleed the HLA's if it's been sitting. New NGK coppers are cheap. Plus whatever else you find recommended on here/online.

>>>And '98 is the same engine as the '96-'98 Legacy and Impreza 2.5 and electronics as the 2.2. The green label maf from any 2.2 or 2.5 Subaru from '92-'98 will work.

The good news is that a 2.2 is the best subaru engine to buy USED. You've seen this site? http://www.car-part.com/cgi-bin/search.cgi You can use the earlier '90-'95 too...just need a dual-port header pipe....and re-use your IM / intake manifold. I have bumped into a couple of fitment issues w/the PS bracket and maybe the AC/Alternator bracket - get both (and keep your newer Knock sensor, too).

Doh! Shoulda/coulda remembered that! good job! the fans shoulda been cycling and all sensors clicking.

NO offense,....If this is an Automatic, are U sure it's the CEL and not the Power or AT temp light?? And '95 was the OBD1>OBD2 transition. I think all 1995 2.2 Subarus were OBD2,...but not 100%. I believe the '95 Impreza 1.8 was still OBD1.

And '99 Legacy could have two kinds...2.2 or 2.5? 2.5 is the same Green Label JECs/AUTECS MAF used on Subarus from '92-'98/'99. But yeah, the '99 2.2 was a unique year....did you look @ Foresters (2.5 but phase 2 electronics) and Imprezas?

To change plugs: A search found this: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/111-gen-1-1995-1999/390178-how-i-changed-my-spark-plugs-ej25d-tips-future-readers.html It's a PITA on the EJ25D engine in you OB......done it, didn't like it. Your engine is in the '96-'99 OB/GT/LSi, '98 Forester and '98 Impreza RS Buy the NGK platinum plugs which are good for 60K or if you're cheap get the copper version and do 'em again in 30K miles. RE: the misfire? see Lucky's info above, but I'd also guess the valves have never been adjusted as that's also a PITA, or worst case scenario you have a burnt valve...been there, fixed that w/a 2.2 (EJ22e) swap.

Foz = Fozzie = Forester...google. Intake and it's wiring need to match the '03...so keep the '03.

Hmmm. not sure why no one has responded...although this is covered elsewhere. The Phase2 2.2 in your '99 should work if you swap the intake manifold from the Foz and the exhaust manifold from the Imp. If the Foz is an Automatic use its flex-plate. I'd also do the HG while it's out as that Phase 2 will likely have issues like the 2.5's.

1996-99 Forester, OB, GT, Impreza RS....easiest choices- direct swap and all 'hydro'/ hydraulic clutch. The RS and GT will have a gear ratio for 'shorter' tires. 2000--04-ish should work, but the FD ratio's get 'fuzzy'. Sometime around the 2004 year most Subes lost the gear-driven speedo - probably a work-around. The early '02-''05 (?) WRX (turbo) 5-speeds are a PULL type clutch and you'll need a PUSH as you noted...in case you were thinking. Whether the new FB-series engines' 5-speeds will work w/your EJ-series engine is not listed in my 'database' (memory). You live in freakin' Subie-central there in Vancouver - near Portland AND Seattle. No shortage of donors, I'd surmise. This chart may (or not) still be useful, as I've not personally reviewed it: http://www.gearhack.com/myink/ViewPage.php?file=docs/Subaru Transmission Chart Here's a pic of parts you may also need for the clutch: http://opposedforces.com/parts/forester/us_s10/type_11/manual_transmission/clutch/illustration_1/ Unlikely you'll need the master or slave cylinders. .....- make sure you don't push the clutch pedal with everything disconnected....read that's a bad idea. Td

That. is. weird. Sounds like it's mis-aligned in there somewhere and it's 'bouncing off' the bottom 'stop' setting'. It then stops - maybe a self-reset or similar - to keep from burning out the motor. Pulling the inner door panel isn't too tough and you might be able to see what's going on.

Hi, Usually due to vacuum leak(s). Put a smoke / pressure tester on it to find them all and fix. Td