wtdash

FWIW, the '05+ generation have a less stellar history than their predecessors, based on what I've read on here. Just a higher # of minor - .05&.10 - stuff. And they still had the potential HG issues due to the EJxxx series engine.... As SOA (subaru of america) got bigger their quality may have taken a hit about this time. Maintenance history? Get the heads checked regardless, and usually best to find a 'real' Subaru mech /tech - not a generic shop.

Probably wait for the Mechs to show up, as I've not done anything newer than an '04 XT. But since it's 'stil an EJ-series' it should (?) just come out like you see 'em on ebay. Remove the front accessory belts, and set the power steering and AC stuff off to the sides - Still attached to their hoses. Remove the Downpipe>Turbo and Up Pipe if necessary to get to the pass. side bolts....wait...does the '10 FXT have the turbo down underneath like the Legacy GT?? Like here: http://efilogics.com/customer/4 - Subaru Customers/AlexM_2010LGT/AlexM_2010LGT_10.JPG Still stock turbo? Maybe time to rebuild / replace that too.

EDIT: Attached pic of actual spoiler mount for posterity. >>Never mind - incorrect: If the top is anything like a Forester ( and it should be similar), they do screw into the top of the rear hatch. You'll maybe find a template online. Look over on rS25.com or NASIOC where the Imprezas roost. Because of the angles, I'd be very hesitant to just 'guess' on that one. The attached is for the 1st Gen Forester...not going to be the same, but might help (or not). FORESTER SF5(98-02) Rear Spoiler Instructions SOA.pdf

HI, that remote picture is for the '99+ models. Sometimes that brown button is still tucked up under the dash. As I 'think' this was a dealer-installed option, the actual keyless and security boxes should be under the dash, too. Trace the wires for that button from there. Per Cars101.com it was an option: Keyless Remote entry - $225. with alarm $350. (made by Code Alarm) You need this fob: http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html#code alarm We need the actual CODE to help w/the Evap issue. Td

All the Phase 1 trans TCUs for USDM should interchange, but w/JDM??? Good question. What's the Trans ID on top of the bellhousing - should start with "TZ...." like, TZ102Z1CAA. Also, look on the rear diff, as it may show the ratio. It was shown on older Subarus...not sure when it stopped.

Read this: Car and Driver Review Specifically: Did you test drive any other cars first (not a criticism)? Subarus are 'laggy'.....You might consider a tune, but it'll probably 'null and void' your warranty. TD

...can you just swap in a different rear diff w/the 3.9 since you're RWD? ebay will show ratio....Not 100% sure as it has a weird 1.1:1 center diff, but the '02-'08 (?) WRX or STi should have a 3.9 or 3.54. Also, the old SVX had a 3.54, if you find one, but be aware that around '95 the bolt pattern on the pinion flange on the rear diff changed on Subarus - @ least in the USA. The flange can be changed...with the right tools/puller (?).

Go to NASIOC.com and read the Unabomber posts for newbs. Here: https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=533787 Don't return 'til you've read them all. :-) Good luck, Td

Your Speedo's not working? Or just the Odo? And/or the Tach? And the CEL light does work (key On/Engine off), but there are no codes, correct? I'd suspect maybe a clogged CC, too...if you can Remove the exhaust - yeah Loud AS Heck - you could test it...probably a better way, though. And this is the Phase 2 2.2, not the EJ25D, correct?

+1 I 'believe' all the EJ-series interchange? In this case EJ22 >>EJ253.

I 'think' that should still have the FWD fuse - moved to the fuse block by the battery. If the owner is willing, I'd put in the fuse and try the same tests as b4.

Using car-part.com I see that the 2011-2013 should swap. Nothing about the 2016 or newer for an interchange. But looking @ the 2016 option shows that they ALL are PZEV (see attached) so I'd doubt they'd be an option anyway. Remember that there were PZEV (Google it) and NON-PZEV versions in 2011 and you need to confirm yours matches. Also, the 2011 oil consumption was a recall by Subaru, so you should be able to tell by the VIN number of the donor car whether the engine was replaced/fixed before you buy. The VIN should be stamped on the engine - usually on the back?

No, the light only comes when low....have you used the Tripmeter to check # of miles per tank? Like I stated above, could be the fuel sender reading "E" when there's still over 1/4 tank.

Suggest a search on http://www.car-part.com/ as it shows interchange.

I'd vote Yes, as all the early and mid-90's I've had did. Doesn't sound you've run it low enough, and remember that these have a tendency to show the fuel level wrong once they get into old age. Tangent: My college-aged step-son ran his low so often that he and his wife burned OUT the low fuel light, and guess what? They ran out of gas once.

Yes...one is a single spade to the gauge; the other is a plug connector to the ECU.

When you compress the tensioner, read up online about to do it s-l-o-w-l-y and vertically vs. horizontally. I like to use a C-clamp. And you likely have read about using the correct mark on the crank gear....it's not the front one. GL, TD

Automatic or 5-speed?? What difference(s) are you referring to? Interchange /Swappability or internal workings? No offense to GD, but I put an Automatic turbo trans in my '90 NON-turbo and ran fine before and after I swapped in the turbo engine. You may want to source a TCM / TCU (trans computer) from a turbo, too, but that's not a deal-breaker. All '91-'94 Automatics and 5-speeds EJ22T / turbo transmissions - '91-'94 Sport Sedan and '92'-'94 Touring Wagon - were 3.9 Final drive ratio. If yours is an AUTOMATIC w/the EJ22e (non-turbo) '90-'91 or '95-'99(?) it's a 4.11 FD ratio. Tangent: Rumor is the SVX transmission is the same as the turbo w/a different FD ratio...but most SVX transmissions are trashed by now.

You need the '95-'98 SOHC/EJ22 Intake Manifold (IM) WITH the EGR (from Automatics and maybe Cali 5-speeds?) to do this w/out bigger issues. Get one w/the engine harness (or use the 2.5's) and do the EGR delete (no need to drill/tap cylinder head), and install on your '93 EJ22. If you don't care about the EGR CEL, you can use your engine, IF: - Move the OB/2.5's engine/intake manifold harness (may need to loosen IM to fit under) and the throttle body (due to the newer TPS). - Deal w/the Charcoal Canister lines - Do my EGR delete option There's also a different Starter install as the '99 was the Phase 2 block and bellhousing design changes. It'll work 'as is', but IIRC you may only use one mounting bolt??? As you learned the flex plate must match the trans. Any of them will bolt to the engine.

What's the 4.11 out of?

for <$50 you can get front and rear spacers. Paranoid fabrications is one option.

https://bbs.legacycentral.org/ should offer some help (as well as a Google search will cover it ad infinitum)....and those are .5" taller tires than stock, which will mess w/your gearing/acceleration/etc.

Edit: My step-son had no further problems on his trip (other than getting stuck in a snow drift!) and is just driving it as is. My step-son's '00 OB has 260K + miles. Replacement engine (EJ251 w/new HG) has ~ 170K. He was driving over Snoqualmie Pass last night, road clear, temps in the 30's and the AT Temp light came on steady. He pulled off the road and called me. Other than a somewhat steep section of maybe 2 miles (?) near the summit this pass is pretty tame compared to others. You can cruise @ the 65mph speed limit up and over w/out issue (unless it's snowing, which closes it multiple times during winter). - Checked the ATF and it's full. I just changed it out last fall so less than 10K miles. - NO Flashing AT Temp light - Key Off>On (engine off). - No driving issues - no hard shifts, 'flaring'/RPM surges, nothing weird. - Drove it into Seattle w/out further issue. - My step-son is pretty observant and treats the OB very well...he wants it to make 300K! Anyone seen this as a precursor to something failing? I'm thinking maybe the AT pump is getting old or the coolant lines to the radiator are plugged/plugging? Thanks

I'm just going to disagree w/the above, w/an edit. Sensor is the wrong word. It's a mechanical device that is used on the '90-'98 (?) transmissions. However the cable was replaced in '95-'96-ish w/an electronic connector. The mech piece remained the same.

Likely the 'tab' on the end of the sensor Edit: Mechanical device. This is screwed into the pass. side of the trans. see attached.