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Tangent: backpressure transducer / BPT (spaceship) - I don't know if that throws the same CEL code when bad but I used a spare from a '90s Toyota.

Ok....so covered somewhere(s) on here. Stock: 205/70R15 = 26.3" tall / height Opt. 1: 215/65R16 = 27.0" tall / height See attached. Should be no fitment issues other than possible rubbing on the front inner wheel wells at full lock.

You've searched Nasioc? If it's happened it's covered there. Found this RE: torquing that nut. This is on the STi IHI VF39 and not a stock Mitsubishi TD04....different brands may be different specs: Those stock TD04's seem to last <150K miles, so likely the original was just old. I'd call PRE - if still around - and see what they think.

G'day...my wife is visiting family in Brisbane.....but I'm a Yank (or whatever you call us - thanks to +Rump it's likely not good). Sounds like the soldering has broken traces. Pull it out and if you've got the skills and tools may be able to DIY. I've only been Down Under once and don't recall, but do you have the 'pick and pulls' for used parts like we the USA? Or what about https://www.ebay.com.au/ for used parts?

And what are the codes? An sti turbo means it's been completely re-plumbed from stock for the TMIC....due to the turbo's outlet. Even more likely something's leaking air...aka VAC LEAK.

1> '95 is 4.11 FD ratio, so you'll need the matching rear diff, as the '92 is 3.90. 2> Flexplate = Automatic; Flywheel = Manual 3> I'd get the flexplate from the '95 - just in case....but, Yes, since the '92 TC would match the '92 Flexplate - should be good. 3.5> Ensure you're VERY informed about re-installing the TC...it MUST be seated correctly....that is covered on here. 4> The bolt-pattern on the rear diff's pinion flange (part that connects to the driveline/driveshaft) changed around '95...so you'll need the fun task of swapping the pinion flange (may need a puller?) or possibly you can mix the '92's rear driveline portion to the '95. I'm pretty sure the full drivelines are different lengths and not interchangeable. Must be covered on here...somewhere.

IDO...it looks like the '98 is a 2-piece driveline (unlike the earlier(?)) all-in-ones. So removing the rear section should work? And the front section keeps the fluid 'contained'?

sounds good....if you're going to 'be in there anyway' I recommend reading up on the Oil Pump. It's also easy to do, but adds 30+ minutes to the job. - Pull the pump w/the crank seal - Scrape off the old RTV sealant on both faces (pump and block) - Tighten the Phillips head screws on back - likely loose. - Install the the NEW little Oring into the block - RTV as FSM shows - Install pump - DO NOT overtighten those 10mm (socket) bolts...snap easier than your fingers. - Install NEW crank seal Search on beer garage subaru for pics (PG13 site)....he goes into a mild tear down of the pump...I'm not sure that's needed.....others may 'flame' me for that!

High-Mileage w/out service history = Timing belt, pulleys/tensioner, WP and Tstat. - ASAP. As this is an INTERFERENCE engine, you must ensure your Tbelt is up-to-date cuz if it breaks, things from go from $>$$$. Kit is <$150; Labor depends on who does it. I'd say less than $500. These engines are super-easy to do, SOHC. You and a buddy could likely pull it off...Youtube it! Many times the Tbelt is done w/OUT replacing the water pump, but this is why NOT to do that. "...from a Friend" ??? :-( I've sold cars to NON-friends and helped fix repair$ that I missed...."CARMA"

"needs oil" <> the Light doesn't tell you it's low and to add some like newer models. It means (usually) you're OUT of oil. rod bearing>sound likely rod trying to escape the block. new(er) engine likely needed.

No 2.2 that'll work in that. '06+ had i-AVLS (adj. valves).* Why do you think/know it's been replaced? Dealer should have a Carfax and Usually they show service if done @ dealer or major repair shop. *'08 had the EZ30D H-6, Ej253 2.5, and EJ255 - 2.5 Tur(d)bo.

Try the attached. Should be a FSM in there...also yours is the same/similar to Forester.

Automatic 4EAT: 1990-1991 = 4.11; 1992-1994 = 3.90; 1995-1998 2.2 = 4.11; 1996-1998 = 4.44. 1991-1994 EJ22T / TURBO = 3.90.

Phase 1 vs. Phase 2 EJ-series 4-cylinder engines Phase 1 and Phase 2 (aka, Phase I and Phase II) refer to the Engines, Transmissions and Electronics used in Subarus. It does NOT refer to body styles or Generations of each model. See Wikipedia for more EJ-series info. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_EJ_engine Note: This pertains to US Domestic Market (USDM) models only. Japanese Domestic Market (JDM) and other overseas markets had more engine choices, but generally the Phase 2 started the same time. The older JDM models were usually a year ahead of those available in the USA, at least for the Legacy model. Subaru established their USA assembly plant in 1989 in Indiana. Phase 1: All Subaru 1.8 (EJ181), 2.2 (EJ22E, EJ22EZ), 2.2T (EJ22T), and 2.5 (EJ25D) engines from 1989-1998, including the '91-'94 Legacy Turbo and '99 Legacy Outback, SUS and GT* *The 1999 Legacy OB, SUS and GT’s EJ25D used a Phase 2 shortblock BUT with the Phase 1 ’96-’98 2.5 pistons, DOHC heads, Intake Manifold and engine harness. It also had the Phase 2 4EAT Transmission. Note: The 3.3 (EG33) in the SVX is considered a Phase 1, I'd think. Side-note: The SVX's infamous 4EAT transmission can be upgraded w/the '96-'98 4EAT from the OB or GT as they can support the power of the 3.3 (probably), but they have a much shorter (?) 4.44 FD ratio so the rear differential must be swapped too. A 5-speed swap would be better yet! Either transmission will bolt-up the 3.3. Check out www.subaru-svx.net for the details. Phase 2: All Subaru 2.0 (EJ205), 2.2(EJ222, EJ223) and 2.5 (EJ251, EJ253, EJ252) engines (incl. turbo versions – EJ255, EJ257) from 1999-2010 (depends on model when the new FA/FB-series engine were 1st used). More info: - The Phase 1 EJ22E and EJ22EZ had at least 3 variations from ’89-’98. The ’89-’95 (EJ22E) were DUAL-port exhaust vs. SINGLE-port on the ’96-’98. (1996 was still the EJ22E, AFAIK). In ’97-’98 (EJ22EZ) Subaru changed to different piston for higher Compression Ratio and SLA on the valve lifters. Notes about swaps: - The Intake Manifolds (IM) on PHASE 1 2.2 and 2.5 do NOT interchange/swap with each other or Phase 2. - The IM on the PHASE 2 SOHC and DOHC ‘might’ interchange w/some slight modification – I’ve read conflicting reports on this. The ’99-’01 2.2 SOHC and ‘99+ 2.5 SOHC will interchange. Edit from RS25.com post: "All the turbo DOHC manifolds <assuming Phase 2/II> WILL bolt up to the Phase II SOHC heads. You have to use the TGVs, TGV deletes, or a long runner manifold, but they WILL work." - The sensors, IAC, Throttle body, injectors, ECUs, wiring harness plugs, etc are different between Phases, which prevents the easy swaps. The shortblocks (no cylinder heads or IM) can be used across phases in 'most' cases. - The '99 Legacy OB/GT/SUS EJ25D can be swapped for the earlier Phase 1 SOHC EJ22e engines from '95-'98 (and even the '89-'94 2.2, w/more work). Remember there will be EGR issues if you use a NON-EGR equipped 2.2 (usually 5-speeds), but HERE IS A WorkAround. Also, you'll need the single-port exhaust manifold / header for the '96-'98 2.2. The AUTOMATIC 4EAT transmission can NOT be swapped for an earlier year. -The Phase 2 EJ25x NON-turbo engines include the PZEV variants. I've read - no proof - that these are unique and should not be used as a source for a short block in NON-PZEV cars. Info on the Phase 1 EJ22E used from ’89-98: http://sl-i.net/FORUM/archive/index.php/t-16437.html From Wikipedia: Changes in the 2.2-litre Phase 2 engines are as follows (most if not all of these updates were applied to the 2.5 engines as well): • The engine and transmission are fastened with six bolts and two studs. • The thrust bearing has been moved to the number 5 position. • The oil groove in the number 1 and 3 have been changed to supply additional lubrication to the crank journal. • Many changes to the cylinder head and camshafts (specifics on Wikipedia) • Different pistons with a Compression Ratio of 10:1 • Different Camshaft gears / sprockets - Additional Phase 2 transmission info: • Transmissions acquired an external spin-on filter. Designed to last the life of the transmission. • Different internal electronics • 2-4 brake band from Phase 1 was replaced with a 2-4 clutch pack • The valve body went from using five solenoids to seven solenoids • From here: http://www.searchautoparts.com/motorage/powertrain-pro/many-changes-subaru-4eat • Note that starting about 2004 in the Forester XT, the Phase 2, Version 2 came out. Extra info: EJ 2.5 = EJ25D, EJ251, EJ253 NOTE: I can't verify this as it was pulled from online info. 1998 .. DOHC ... same as in the 97-99 Legacy Outback .... MAF 1999 .. SOHC ... with MAF and only year for these engine controls ... unique MAF and O2 sensors 2000/01.. SOHC MAP ... put these alone as they are identical 2002/04 .. SOHC MAP ... moved PCV to rear bell housing .. other minor changes, some with electronic EGR 2005 ... SOHC .... similar to previous, but unique like 1999, first year for NA Drive by wire and unique engine controls again (NO i-AVLS cams) 2006-2008 ... MAF controls ..... Changes also to exhaust, water pump and some timing components, Valve timing added to intake (i-AVLS), oil controlled, different than Turbo 1999-200X ....The Camshaft and Crankshaft sprockets (that the Tbelt runs on ) may need swapped out depending on year AND whether it's Manual or Automatic transmission. Search on here/online. The EJ25x shortblocks from 1999 thru 2005 (excluding EJ25D-see above) were different from the 2006 thru 20010/11. Separated by the i-AVLS heads used on '06+ models.

Bumping this for new info....maybe y'all already saw it...me>> just today.

I know 'not much' about working on the H6, but I do know it won't just 'drop in' to your '99. FYI: There were 2 different versions of the 2.5 in '99. One for the Legacy Outback/GT/SUS model that still used the Phase 1 EJ25D (2.5 DOHC) and the EJ253 in the Forester and Impreza RS (2.5 SOHC). '99 was a transition year, so you'll have to keep that in mind. And that JEBA trans is an oddball as it works w/the '99 OB/GT/SUS (I think) but it's a Phase 2 transmission. So....it 'might' work w/the H6, but I doubt it as those had the VDC and/or VTD versions. I doubt the TCU/TCM would communicate or even plug-in correctly. Search online about phase 1 vs. phase 2...there's info to learn there, too.

Take a real close look @ those wires where they go into the IAC connector- the actual harness wires.....on a 27 year 'young' vehicle they may be frayed, cracked, etc. There's another post on here (or online) showing that issue. This is for a TPS but same idea:

^+1 - Good point. Tangent: Two days after I sold my last Subaru, it was stolen BEFORE the Buyer had transferred title. It was recovered and the Buyer came back to me to re-authorize (?) the sale as they'd lost the title, etc.

Hi, How do you usually pay for those items? Check, Credit Card, Cash? If the Check/CC, you may have either a cancelled check or CC statement.

Look in the Owner's manual for info on the key. If it's chipped you'll need it 'married', I believe. Most key makers - which includes Home Depot, etc. - can check for 'chips' (and they'll charge you a bunch more for a chipped key). And considering there's always 'some' power to the ECU and it's mounted under the passenger's feet (correct?) it's likely fried. P.s. You DID check your fusible link, correct?

There should be two 'boxes' under the drive's side dash. 1 for the keyless, and 1 for the alarm. They should be labeled and tucked up there somewhere as it's a dealer-installed option, AFAIK. Anyway....I can't recall for sure it it exists, but there might be a 'sensitivity' adjustment on the alarm box?

You'll likely just need to replace them both. Ebay is generally a good resource. Note that you can use the '95-'96 version that includes the side marker too (but different connector plugs), or stick w/the '98-'99 like yours. If you want better lights, find a pair of the JDM projectors. $$$ and require wiring mods but they are a big upgrade.

you likely know this is a reverse Frankenstein...and should be a low compression version. But I'm not familiar w/those Phase 2 (version 2?) i-AVLS heads, which may not play well w/the Phase EJ22 block. Search on reverse Franken, etc. - it's been done or you'll read why NOT to do it.

GD is correct....HG.

No...they have different Bolt Pattern: 2017 Forester is still 5x100/ 5x4"; 2017 Legacy is 5x114.3/ 5x4.5" Per Tire Rack (and probably owner's manuals).