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Everything posted by wtdash
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That's why I asked about disconnecting exhaust...that removes any CC restrictions. I know nothing about LPG-fueled cars...so hopefully someone else adds info. P.s. POST this over in the main forum for more responses: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/forum/44-1990-to-present-legacy-impreza-outback-forester-baja-wrxwrxsti-svx/
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^+1000 ....and CVs and Suspension issues, too. Used Subarus w/turbos are similar to taking your wallet/purse, putting $ in it and then throwing it off the bridge. Only difference is someone may return the wallet. If you can't verify w/receipts, etc. that the engine was replaced w/NEW (never -shudder- used) and all the related turbo bits are also new, you're likelihood of become 'besties' w/your local Subaru guru are quite high. Personally I'd still like to have one of the OB XT's but it's just too even though I'd do a lot of the repairs myself.
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HI, Can you run with exhaust disconnected? That will test the converters. Yes, a bad MAF may cause car to stall and then restart and run fine. But in USA, EJ251 are MAP-based engine control; Not MAF. O2 sensor may cause some problems too, but usually only when car is at operating temperature (warmed-up), I've read. Read this Post: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/49537-p0420-diagnosis.html Td
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FYI...as noted '98 Foz engine+transmission electronics are the same as any '96*-'98 Legacy OB or GT and the '98 Impreza RS. They all have the same EJ25D. And it should be the same for the '96-'98 'regular' Legacy or Impreza models, but different diff ratios, depending. ('99 was a transition year so that has some gotchas.) The '02 is Phase 2 meaning it has the extra mount points on the bellhousing, but it should be 99% the same as any earlier 5-speed. Double-check the diff ratio. If it's got the speedo plug by the diff's dipstick, then it'll work. Plugs for neutral and reverse lights (?) might need swapped to old-style, too. Find a 5-speed swap thread on most ANY Subaru forum for these years and you're golden. You may need a 5-speed cruise control module, if you want to keep that active. *'96 EJ25D had few differences in the heads but otherwise is direct swap.
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Yes...interchange w/all non-turbo models of those years. There were changes to the cam sprockets (?), but just reuse the originals (if not damaged, of course).
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Those codes point to the i-AVLS system correct? That's too new (yeah, I'm old school) so not familiar, but $ound$ expen$ive to fix. Maybe just needs new sensors? Oil change history? EJ-series need regular oil changes. No offense (or not much) but if you can't afford a lemon, keep looking. No reason to start on the wrong side of the purchase. UNLESS you have the skilz and time to fix it? and it'll likely need Head Gaskets (HG) in the near future. Td
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HI, Welcome back. The clutch does have an adjustment behind the accel. pedal near the firewall - on the inside. Also, there are ways to test the clutch - I'll let you Google those. If the clunking is all the time it could be something else - strut tops or ball joints - CVs usually (?) are noticeable when turning. These are known to go thru rear wheel bearings, too....and check the fuel filler neck for rust. Have fun, Td
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IF the head needs replaced and because it's the Passenger side you can use any head from a '90-'95 as they're all Dual-port exhaust. '96-'98 are Single-port and you'd have replace BOTH heads and get the single-port exhaust manifold or do some interesting exhaust manifold work. Also, if this is an Automatic trans it'll have EGR which means the DRIVER's side head must also have the EGR port (but we all know that's not a show stopper). GL, Td
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Hi, more searching you'll find the answers, but I get that there may be 'too much'. '90-'94 FRONTS are the same - as far as fitment - on all Subarus Legacy, Forester and Impreza from '90-'08+ for the most part. But there are differences in HEIGHT between the Outback/OB and Forester as both are 'lifted' from the factory - but they'll all bolt-on. But the '90-'94 Legacy AND '93-'01 Impreza share the same rear TOP strut mount bolt pattern. '95+ Legacy are the same as Forester. In '00 Legacy/OB changed to a multi-link rear suspension that is not swappable. The Forester rears will need your '90 top hats, but I don't know if the Forester springs will work as the '90 may be tapered from bottom to top...Search on that . If you don't mind the ghetto option, drill some new holes/enlarge the others to just install the Forester rear struts 'as is'. ...search on that, too. Also, if yours is truly an LS model, they had the AIR suspension. I'm fairly sure it's an easy swap but you may have to remove some extra wires/lines from the compressor, etc. to get the replacements in there....but by this time maybe they've already been swapped out?
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If you're asking me, I've updated my post. .....I don't know if the struts are the same, but can't imagine the rear top mount bolt patterns would change, but the lower strut mount - @ the spindle/hub might? Edit: Googling found this from one of the 'mod-fathers' of Subarus (Hopefully Peaty won't be offended) Josh C. from Legacy Central: I would then postulate that this applies to Imprezas, too.
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Just to clarify the seats will bolt-up but the forester/impreza seats will sit higher.Too high on the pass. side (for some), and they normally don't have a height adjustment like the driver's seat. The Forester S was the 'top' of the line that year, so probably has the same 'goodies'. http://www.cars101.com/subaru_archives.html will show you most of the specs for each model year. GL, Td
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That's a Gen4 Legacy ( '90-'94, '95-'99, '00-'04, '05-'10, etc.) a few things I've read about - not seen - are the suspension and CV axles wearing out too soon. Make sure those are inspected. I'd also get a CARFAX from the dealer or get one yourself for $10 @ 'downloadvin.com' (website is 'suspicious looking' but as of a few weeks back works fine and I've used it a LOT.) Or an Autocheck for $2.00. Carfax will frequently show service history, along w/the # of owners, accidents, etc. And use KBB.com to get the Trade-in, Private Party (like Craigslist) and Dealer pricing. Remember, the dealer probably only gave someone the Trade-In value for it originally so there's a LOT of room to negotiate...somewhere between PP and Dealer is fair to both. GL, Td