wtdash

^+1 - Good point. Tangent: Two days after I sold my last Subaru, it was stolen BEFORE the Buyer had transferred title. It was recovered and the Buyer came back to me to re-authorize (?) the sale as they'd lost the title, etc.

Hi, How do you usually pay for those items? Check, Credit Card, Cash? If the Check/CC, you may have either a cancelled check or CC statement.

Look in the Owner's manual for info on the key. If it's chipped you'll need it 'married', I believe. Most key makers - which includes Home Depot, etc. - can check for 'chips' (and they'll charge you a bunch more for a chipped key). And considering there's always 'some' power to the ECU and it's mounted under the passenger's feet (correct?) it's likely fried. P.s. You DID check your fusible link, correct?

There should be two 'boxes' under the drive's side dash. 1 for the keyless, and 1 for the alarm. They should be labeled and tucked up there somewhere as it's a dealer-installed option, AFAIK. Anyway....I can't recall for sure it it exists, but there might be a 'sensitivity' adjustment on the alarm box?

You'll likely just need to replace them both. Ebay is generally a good resource. Note that you can use the '95-'96 version that includes the side marker too (but different connector plugs), or stick w/the '98-'99 like yours. If you want better lights, find a pair of the JDM projectors. $$$ and require wiring mods but they are a big upgrade.

you likely know this is a reverse Frankenstein...and should be a low compression version. But I'm not familiar w/those Phase 2 (version 2?) i-AVLS heads, which may not play well w/the Phase EJ22 block. Search on reverse Franken, etc. - it's been done or you'll read why NOT to do it.

GD is correct....HG.

No...they have different Bolt Pattern: 2017 Forester is still 5x100/ 5x4"; 2017 Legacy is 5x114.3/ 5x4.5" Per Tire Rack (and probably owner's manuals).

Black tape or find the FSM online and read the wiring schematic?

Wait, wait, wait...they swapped seats, they got 'really hot'. Yours don't. What part of this isn't clear to the dealer?

+1 on VC gaskets...those half-moons can be a pain to seal.

I'd recommend swapping seats w/your GF's but not sure how safe that is to do w/the side-air bags, etc. Shouldn't be an issue...but not my car(s). And BS on 'normal' operation. You guys in NY have any decent dealers? Seems like the NE has the worst collection from all the posts on forums.

That's why I asked about disconnecting exhaust...that removes any CC restrictions. I know nothing about LPG-fueled cars...so hopefully someone else adds info. P.s. POST this over in the main forum for more responses: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/forum/44-1990-to-present-legacy-impreza-outback-forester-baja-wrxwrxsti-svx/

Sport mode = Power mode, AFAIK. If you need to find info, search on that. The Non-USA models had a button for the sport mode; but it can be added, IIRC - HERE: http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showthread.php?t=39133 Td

after re-reading, i'm thinking one of the gurus can probably diagnose based on this. ^

How about the coolant temp sensor/CTS? They're known to go bad. Cheap and kinda of a pain to replace, but I'd do that.

^+1000 ....and CVs and Suspension issues, too. Used Subarus w/turbos are similar to taking your wallet/purse, putting $ in it and then throwing it off the bridge. Only difference is someone may return the wallet. If you can't verify w/receipts, etc. that the engine was replaced w/NEW (never -shudder- used) and all the related turbo bits are also new, you're likelihood of become 'besties' w/your local Subaru guru are quite high. Personally I'd still like to have one of the OB XT's but it's just too even though I'd do a lot of the repairs myself.

HI, Can you run with exhaust disconnected? That will test the converters. Yes, a bad MAF may cause car to stall and then restart and run fine. But in USA, EJ251 are MAP-based engine control; Not MAF. O2 sensor may cause some problems too, but usually only when car is at operating temperature (warmed-up), I've read. Read this Post: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/49537-p0420-diagnosis.html Td

FYI...as noted '98 Foz engine+transmission electronics are the same as any '96*-'98 Legacy OB or GT and the '98 Impreza RS. They all have the same EJ25D. And it should be the same for the '96-'98 'regular' Legacy or Impreza models, but different diff ratios, depending. ('99 was a transition year so that has some gotchas.) The '02 is Phase 2 meaning it has the extra mount points on the bellhousing, but it should be 99% the same as any earlier 5-speed. Double-check the diff ratio. If it's got the speedo plug by the diff's dipstick, then it'll work. Plugs for neutral and reverse lights (?) might need swapped to old-style, too. Find a 5-speed swap thread on most ANY Subaru forum for these years and you're golden. You may need a 5-speed cruise control module, if you want to keep that active. *'96 EJ25D had few differences in the heads but otherwise is direct swap.

Yes...interchange w/all non-turbo models of those years. There were changes to the cam sprockets (?), but just reuse the originals (if not damaged, of course).

Those codes point to the i-AVLS system correct? That's too new (yeah, I'm old school) so not familiar, but $ound$ expen$ive to fix. Maybe just needs new sensors? Oil change history? EJ-series need regular oil changes. No offense (or not much) but if you can't afford a lemon, keep looking. No reason to start on the wrong side of the purchase. UNLESS you have the skilz and time to fix it? and it'll likely need Head Gaskets (HG) in the near future. Td

HI, Welcome back. The clutch does have an adjustment behind the accel. pedal near the firewall - on the inside. Also, there are ways to test the clutch - I'll let you Google those. If the clunking is all the time it could be something else - strut tops or ball joints - CVs usually (?) are noticeable when turning. These are known to go thru rear wheel bearings, too....and check the fuel filler neck for rust. Have fun, Td

G'day, +1 - DO NOT DRIVE w/the different tire sizes. go get 2 more that match. Cheers

IF the head needs replaced and because it's the Passenger side you can use any head from a '90-'95 as they're all Dual-port exhaust. '96-'98 are Single-port and you'd have replace BOTH heads and get the single-port exhaust manifold or do some interesting exhaust manifold work. Also, if this is an Automatic trans it'll have EGR which means the DRIVER's side head must also have the EGR port (but we all know that's not a show stopper). GL, Td