wtdash

Yeah...I just looked that up, too.....but I don't believe that's correct as the '97-'98 were NOT the same as either the '96 nor the '99. '96 had the HLA valve train and weird (Ok...different) combustion chambers, and the '99 EJ25D was a Phase 2 block w/different pistons than used in the EJ253 versions (from what I've read). The '99 does have the same 9.7:1 CR per the Owner's Manual.

Ok...i'm going to take the CL poster @ his word that he's referring to the '97-'99* STOCK EJ25D engines he worked on as noted in the CL ad. The pics in the ad are of the upgrades he's done - Not stock. Regardless, I'm still just curious if any of you engine gurus have come across this assertion he made about the STOCK EJ25D not being 9.7:1 CR. *The '96 is listed as 9.5:1 in the Owner's Manual, the '97-'99 are 9.7:1, but the '99 is the Phase 2 block w/different pistons to work w/the Phase 1 Heads - I think.

Came across a CL ad for '98 OB that has a LOT Of upgrades - HERE and attached. I'm not here to Dis on the owner, but he states the stock CR of these engines is 8.1:1 not the claimed 9.7:1 (Edit*): Anyone confirm this is the case? Just based on my limited info, there's no way the stock engine makes 165HP/Torque if the CR is that low. And personally, I don't think they're that 'sluggish' compared to other cars of that era. But i'd agree the DOHC requires some RPM's to get to the power curve. *I edited to be what the Owner's Manual states. The '96 EJ25D was the 9.5:1. Thanks 1998 Subaru Outback, Expedition - CL.pdf

Those models had infamous failed HVAC units - the dash control. I can't recall ATM if it meant no heat....or just only certain buttons would work....reSearch on that, too. BTW, '90='91, but not '92-'94. GL, Td

the 'squiggly' lines is usually traction control - Owner's Manual will confirm. That generally does indicate an issue w/the Transmission-side. Simple 'CEL' code readers would not likely read those anyway. 2008 is probably CANBUS...although I thought the OBD2 scanners still worked....may b not so much? Search online for a CAN BUS reader or see if you can find the manual for yours to verify. No sure about 'what' would cause your issue.... Did you drive thru a snowstorm? A big puddle? Go 'muddin''? Just wondering if something got on one of the wheel ABS sensors, etc. I'd try the battery reset....Of course, this doesn't 'fix' anything...The cause of the issue will come back. but depending on how quickly it comes back may give you a clue....but NOTE that you'll lose your radio presets and you MUST know how to re-program your keyless entry / fobs BEFORE doing this.

and AFAIK all EJ-series engine mounts interchange...so just swap 'em if need be.

yes...the nub helps 'center' it...if no nub, In both cases, ensure the mount is flush / flat w/the cradle, ie. cross-member / x-member. GL, Td

....I've posted this on here a lot, and so have others....take another look.... But everything I've read/seen/had: '92-'94 Turbo and NA 4EAT Auto trans were all 3.90; '90, '91, '95-'98 (maybe '99) EJ22 were 4.11. FD Ratio. Some older Subies had the ratio stamped onto the rear diff....check yours....and see attached for example. Which is the bad news, in that you have a small range to 'pull' from. But YOU CAN use any trans from '90-'98 AND THE MATCHING REAR DIFF. You'll need the FLEX PLATE that matches the Torque converteror Trans or possibly reuse your Torque Converter (if it's not the actual issue). I'm not 100% sure on the compatibility between the TC's. I think there may have been 3 sizes based on engine? EJ22, EJ22T, EJ25D GL, TD

If you plan on keeping your SS w/the EJ22T 'as is' I'd keep those as I've blown @ least one ringland....but maybe it'll be time to upgrade to forged?

check codes, report back. I'd do the 3x Drain, Refill, Drive on the Trans fluid -this gets about 95% new ATF in there incl. the Torque Converter (TC). For that OB, I'd just buy the cheapest Dex III compatible you can buy - I've not had issues w/the Walmart 'house' brand. That filter on the Transmission is 'lifetime' per Subaru. I'd ensure that if you replaced it, you used Subaru OEM...not a cheapy. Check the front diff gear oil, too. - it's the one on the other side (passenger) that also likely has a yellow dipstick. Just to ensure some dunce didn't mix'n'match your fluids. The 4EAT is a good transmission. 250K+ on my step's '00 OB...FWIW; that 2.5? Notsomuch. GL, TD

Try an 'anti-fouler' / extender for the rear O2 sensor. it's been working on my step-son's '00 OB for a month now - had the P0420, too.

Hi, Just take a pic of yours - w/the wires connected and disconnected - for when you hit the Yard....'98 was kind of a transition year. I know my '98 Forester had the earlier style, while a '98 OB I bought/fixed HG/sold had the newer style (if memory serves). Also, you can get a newer coil pack from a Dodge/Chrysler/Plymouth (ok MOPAR) car from the mid-2000's. I 'think' it works w/your wires, but search on the 'dodge neon subaru coil pack' and you'll get slightly more spark. You'll have to rewire the connector, but that's covered online, too. GL, Td

and both non-turbo/NA 2.5?

Cool.....that'd mean to me that all the 1995+ 2.2's were OBD2 (you can't get an '95 Impreza w/a 2.2 and 5-speed). Per Cars101.com:

>>>>>>>>>>>>

Green for diagnostics - cycles the fans and sensors on/off. Look it up in the FSM/factory service manual: http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/ If you do NOT have the OBD2 connector, I'm 99% sure those black connectors are there - taped/tucked to another harness most likely. : The yellow connector is the Subaru SSM for Subaru Tech/Mechs to use. You could build a cable and buy/download software (not Subaru-specific) and read info, but it's not the most user-friendly option.

>>>>>>>>Hmmm

yes...codes should be stored w/the KEY ON, Engine OFF, plug in the connectors and watch for the CEL light to blink the codes. ECU is probably under pass. footwell. '95 w/the 4EAT (Auto) and EJ22 had OBD2 on Impreza and Legacy; not on the EJ18 in the Impreza. Not sure about the EJ22 and 5-speed on the Legacy....AFAIK.

EJ to EJ...all day...meaning, you can connect them*. Note the 2005 has the extra mounting points...just use those that match up to your old 5-speed....and read up on the Starter. I get confused about which way (new<>old) requires a mod to mount the starter. And put in a HD clutch, but from what I've read don't overdo it. You want the clutch to fail b4 the more expensive trans. *Physically. Electrically it depends on the year - remember there is a Phase 1 to Phase 2 transition in '99, which is why the '93 ECU, harness, etc. won't run the 2005 stuff.

^Yep...that's the 'beauty' of this combo...keeps the electronics the same....and Yes, everything stays the same. YOU MUST RUN PREMIUM as your CR will be 10:1+. Read up some more on the the 'franken-motor' as I've not done it (yet), but it's not a new idea. You might need a COMETIC HG due the difference in water/oil jackets, but they actually sell one for just this hybrid. GL, TD

Just use your ECU. ECUs between '96-'98 should all swap Manual <> Automatic.....maybe '95 too, but that's a transition year. This includes Legacy, Impreza and Forester....One thing i DID find is to ensure your charcoal canister location (front or rear) matches the ECUs, or you'll get a purge valve error.

I'll add a tangent here as I don't know much about the '05+ and swapping to older stuff. "Assuming" your '93 is stock.>>>>>> My first question - and no offense - how many of these have you done? I noted it's a race car, so downtime isn't as big an issue as a DD, but expect it take "Twice as long and Cost Twice as much" as you think. Something to make your life much easier - possibly - is to put those '93 2.2 heads on the 2.5 block - 'Frankenstein' Hi-Compression engine....w/out all the harness mess. Probably more torque than the stock 2.5. The '96-'99 EJ25D would also be easier to make work....but it's not a very well-loved engine 'round here. Otherwise, I'd turbo the '93 2.2 (but that may change your Race class??), also easier than the '05 2.5 swap (IMHO).

I've not read all the above so ignore if already done: Plug the GREEN connectors together under the dash - driver's right knee area. w/the key On Engine OFF, the fans will cycle, as well as all the solenoids will click on/off, etc. See if the purge clicks on/off, too. as another test. You can feel it. That's how I found mine was no good.

'90-'96 are NON-interference; everything newer is...including the '99+ Phase 2.

as noted above...does it when still cold and warmed-up? Thinking CTS. What about a loose vac line? MAF can be cleaned, but they fail often enough to be suspect. If it were a clogged CC, I'd 'think' you'd pop a 420 (UR in WA so whatcha expect? :-) )