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Hi, more searching you'll find the answers, but I get that there may be 'too much'. '90-'94 FRONTS are the same - as far as fitment - on all Subarus Legacy, Forester and Impreza from '90-'08+ for the most part. But there are differences in HEIGHT between the Outback/OB and Forester as both are 'lifted' from the factory - but they'll all bolt-on. But the '90-'94 Legacy AND '93-'01 Impreza share the same rear TOP strut mount bolt pattern. '95+ Legacy are the same as Forester. In '00 Legacy/OB changed to a multi-link rear suspension that is not swappable. The Forester rears will need your '90 top hats, but I don't know if the Forester springs will work as the '90 may be tapered from bottom to top...Search on that . If you don't mind the ghetto option, drill some new holes/enlarge the others to just install the Forester rear struts 'as is'. ...search on that, too. Also, if yours is truly an LS model, they had the AIR suspension. I'm fairly sure it's an easy swap but you may have to remove some extra wires/lines from the compressor, etc. to get the replacements in there....but by this time maybe they've already been swapped out?

do you know the maintenance history? If not, I'd do all you list, plus make your Tbelt isn't (over)due...usually every 100K or so. And the CEL is NOT on, correct? But you know the CEL light works? Key ON, Engine OFF? O2 Sensors may be getting weak, but not bad enough to Code..just cause poor MPG.

I posted this 2015:

If you're asking me, I've updated my post. .....I don't know if the struts are the same, but can't imagine the rear top mount bolt patterns would change, but the lower strut mount - @ the spindle/hub might? Edit: Googling found this from one of the 'mod-fathers' of Subarus (Hopefully Peaty won't be offended) Josh C. from Legacy Central: I would then postulate that this applies to Imprezas, too.

Edit - see below for source: Rear's top hat/strut mount won't fit. '95+ Legacy used a different bolt pattern. Fronts are the same. '93-2001 (?) Impreza were the same as '90-'94 Legacy in the rear. Read-up as it's covered on most Subie sites for more specifics. Td

Just to clarify the seats will bolt-up but the forester/impreza seats will sit higher.Too high on the pass. side (for some), and they normally don't have a height adjustment like the driver's seat. The Forester S was the 'top' of the line that year, so probably has the same 'goodies'. http://www.cars101.com/subaru_archives.html will show you most of the specs for each model year. GL, Td

Keep the sensors that match YOUR cars electronics. camshaft/crankshaft is correct.

That's a Gen4 Legacy ( '90-'94, '95-'99, '00-'04, '05-'10, etc.) a few things I've read about - not seen - are the suspension and CV axles wearing out too soon. Make sure those are inspected. I'd also get a CARFAX from the dealer or get one yourself for $10 @ 'downloadvin.com' (website is 'suspicious looking' but as of a few weeks back works fine and I've used it a LOT.) Or an Autocheck for $2.00. Carfax will frequently show service history, along w/the # of owners, accidents, etc. And use KBB.com to get the Trade-in, Private Party (like Craigslist) and Dealer pricing. Remember, the dealer probably only gave someone the Trade-In value for it originally so there's a LOT of room to negotiate...somewhere between PP and Dealer is fair to both. GL, Td

Yeah...I just looked that up, too.....but I don't believe that's correct as the '97-'98 were NOT the same as either the '96 nor the '99. '96 had the HLA valve train and weird (Ok...different) combustion chambers, and the '99 EJ25D was a Phase 2 block w/different pistons than used in the EJ253 versions (from what I've read). The '99 does have the same 9.7:1 CR per the Owner's Manual.

Ok...i'm going to take the CL poster @ his word that he's referring to the '97-'99* STOCK EJ25D engines he worked on as noted in the CL ad. The pics in the ad are of the upgrades he's done - Not stock. Regardless, I'm still just curious if any of you engine gurus have come across this assertion he made about the STOCK EJ25D not being 9.7:1 CR. *The '96 is listed as 9.5:1 in the Owner's Manual, the '97-'99 are 9.7:1, but the '99 is the Phase 2 block w/different pistons to work w/the Phase 1 Heads - I think.

Came across a CL ad for '98 OB that has a LOT Of upgrades - HERE and attached. I'm not here to Dis on the owner, but he states the stock CR of these engines is 8.1:1 not the claimed 9.7:1 (Edit*): Anyone confirm this is the case? Just based on my limited info, there's no way the stock engine makes 165HP/Torque if the CR is that low. And personally, I don't think they're that 'sluggish' compared to other cars of that era. But i'd agree the DOHC requires some RPM's to get to the power curve. *I edited to be what the Owner's Manual states. The '96 EJ25D was the 9.5:1. Thanks 1998 Subaru Outback, Expedition - CL.pdf

Those models had infamous failed HVAC units - the dash control. I can't recall ATM if it meant no heat....or just only certain buttons would work....reSearch on that, too. BTW, '90='91, but not '92-'94. GL, Td

the 'squiggly' lines is usually traction control - Owner's Manual will confirm. That generally does indicate an issue w/the Transmission-side. Simple 'CEL' code readers would not likely read those anyway. 2008 is probably CANBUS...although I thought the OBD2 scanners still worked....may b not so much? Search online for a CAN BUS reader or see if you can find the manual for yours to verify. No sure about 'what' would cause your issue.... Did you drive thru a snowstorm? A big puddle? Go 'muddin''? Just wondering if something got on one of the wheel ABS sensors, etc. I'd try the battery reset....Of course, this doesn't 'fix' anything...The cause of the issue will come back. but depending on how quickly it comes back may give you a clue....but NOTE that you'll lose your radio presets and you MUST know how to re-program your keyless entry / fobs BEFORE doing this.

and AFAIK all EJ-series engine mounts interchange...so just swap 'em if need be.

yes...the nub helps 'center' it...if no nub, In both cases, ensure the mount is flush / flat w/the cradle, ie. cross-member / x-member. GL, Td

....I've posted this on here a lot, and so have others....take another look.... But everything I've read/seen/had: '92-'94 Turbo and NA 4EAT Auto trans were all 3.90; '90, '91, '95-'98 (maybe '99) EJ22 were 4.11. FD Ratio. Some older Subies had the ratio stamped onto the rear diff....check yours....and see attached for example. Which is the bad news, in that you have a small range to 'pull' from. But YOU CAN use any trans from '90-'98 AND THE MATCHING REAR DIFF. You'll need the FLEX PLATE that matches the Torque converteror Trans or possibly reuse your Torque Converter (if it's not the actual issue). I'm not 100% sure on the compatibility between the TC's. I think there may have been 3 sizes based on engine? EJ22, EJ22T, EJ25D GL, TD

If you plan on keeping your SS w/the EJ22T 'as is' I'd keep those as I've blown @ least one ringland....but maybe it'll be time to upgrade to forged?

check codes, report back. I'd do the 3x Drain, Refill, Drive on the Trans fluid -this gets about 95% new ATF in there incl. the Torque Converter (TC). For that OB, I'd just buy the cheapest Dex III compatible you can buy - I've not had issues w/the Walmart 'house' brand. That filter on the Transmission is 'lifetime' per Subaru. I'd ensure that if you replaced it, you used Subaru OEM...not a cheapy. Check the front diff gear oil, too. - it's the one on the other side (passenger) that also likely has a yellow dipstick. Just to ensure some dunce didn't mix'n'match your fluids. The 4EAT is a good transmission. 250K+ on my step's '00 OB...FWIW; that 2.5? Notsomuch. GL, TD

Try an 'anti-fouler' / extender for the rear O2 sensor. it's been working on my step-son's '00 OB for a month now - had the P0420, too.

Hi, Just take a pic of yours - w/the wires connected and disconnected - for when you hit the Yard....'98 was kind of a transition year. I know my '98 Forester had the earlier style, while a '98 OB I bought/fixed HG/sold had the newer style (if memory serves). Also, you can get a newer coil pack from a Dodge/Chrysler/Plymouth (ok MOPAR) car from the mid-2000's. I 'think' it works w/your wires, but search on the 'dodge neon subaru coil pack' and you'll get slightly more spark. You'll have to rewire the connector, but that's covered online, too. GL, Td

and both non-turbo/NA 2.5?

Cool.....that'd mean to me that all the 1995+ 2.2's were OBD2 (you can't get an '95 Impreza w/a 2.2 and 5-speed). Per Cars101.com:

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Green for diagnostics - cycles the fans and sensors on/off. Look it up in the FSM/factory service manual: http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/ If you do NOT have the OBD2 connector, I'm 99% sure those black connectors are there - taped/tucked to another harness most likely. : The yellow connector is the Subaru SSM for Subaru Tech/Mechs to use. You could build a cable and buy/download software (not Subaru-specific) and read info, but it's not the most user-friendly option.

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