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yes...codes should be stored w/the KEY ON, Engine OFF, plug in the connectors and watch for the CEL light to blink the codes. ECU is probably under pass. footwell. '95 w/the 4EAT (Auto) and EJ22 had OBD2 on Impreza and Legacy; not on the EJ18 in the Impreza. Not sure about the EJ22 and 5-speed on the Legacy....AFAIK.

EJ to EJ...all day...meaning, you can connect them*. Note the 2005 has the extra mounting points...just use those that match up to your old 5-speed....and read up on the Starter. I get confused about which way (new<>old) requires a mod to mount the starter. And put in a HD clutch, but from what I've read don't overdo it. You want the clutch to fail b4 the more expensive trans. *Physically. Electrically it depends on the year - remember there is a Phase 1 to Phase 2 transition in '99, which is why the '93 ECU, harness, etc. won't run the 2005 stuff.

^Yep...that's the 'beauty' of this combo...keeps the electronics the same....and Yes, everything stays the same. YOU MUST RUN PREMIUM as your CR will be 10:1+. Read up some more on the the 'franken-motor' as I've not done it (yet), but it's not a new idea. You might need a COMETIC HG due the difference in water/oil jackets, but they actually sell one for just this hybrid. GL, TD

Just use your ECU. ECUs between '96-'98 should all swap Manual <> Automatic.....maybe '95 too, but that's a transition year. This includes Legacy, Impreza and Forester....One thing i DID find is to ensure your charcoal canister location (front or rear) matches the ECUs, or you'll get a purge valve error.

I'll add a tangent here as I don't know much about the '05+ and swapping to older stuff. "Assuming" your '93 is stock.>>>>>> My first question - and no offense - how many of these have you done? I noted it's a race car, so downtime isn't as big an issue as a DD, but expect it take "Twice as long and Cost Twice as much" as you think. Something to make your life much easier - possibly - is to put those '93 2.2 heads on the 2.5 block - 'Frankenstein' Hi-Compression engine....w/out all the harness mess. Probably more torque than the stock 2.5. The '96-'99 EJ25D would also be easier to make work....but it's not a very well-loved engine 'round here. Otherwise, I'd turbo the '93 2.2 (but that may change your Race class??), also easier than the '05 2.5 swap (IMHO).

I've not read all the above so ignore if already done: Plug the GREEN connectors together under the dash - driver's right knee area. w/the key On Engine OFF, the fans will cycle, as well as all the solenoids will click on/off, etc. See if the purge clicks on/off, too. as another test. You can feel it. That's how I found mine was no good.

'90-'96 are NON-interference; everything newer is...including the '99+ Phase 2.

as noted above...does it when still cold and warmed-up? Thinking CTS. What about a loose vac line? MAF can be cleaned, but they fail often enough to be suspect. If it were a clogged CC, I'd 'think' you'd pop a 420 (UR in WA so whatcha expect? :-) )

hi, should be plenty of posts about bypassing the starter switch on here/online, and that' the only one that would cause a 'no start' AFAIK.

^just the messenger.

Since PB decided to its users, I'm posting this up. Update: There are 2 extensions - Chrome and Firefox - I found and tested (on Chrome only) that work. Add the extensions and fotobucket links start working again. Posted on the Legacy Centrals site, so 'should' be legit: https://addons.mozilla.org/en-US/firefox/addon/photobucket-fix/ https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/photobucket-hotlink-fix/kegnjbncdcliihbemealioapbifiaedg Also, I originally had this info, which may still work: Thanks to Mr. P. Olsen on NASIOC who states this works 90% of the time ('til PB finds out?).

^ + bubbles and oily residue. HG,

Search came up w/this: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/142640-p1443-cel-code-evap-system-fix/

+1 on Car-part.com....I'd add your '05 is 'unique' in that it's the 1st year of the return of the MAF-based systems of the EJ253 AND the year prior to the i-avls variable cams on the '06+ models.. I'd bet you're limited to ONLY '05 Impreza non-turbo and MAYBE '05 Foresters, and it needs to match your transmission.

Hi, I'd still check for codes...cel or not. Check your Grounds? ECU/ECM going bad? PCV valve - related to oil issue?

Hi Larry, Just to confirm...do the horn and Cruise work? If not...then it's the likely the clockspring. GL, TD

PM sent

^1...please believe what Mr. idosubaru posted. It's accurate....you'll cause yourself a LOT of grief going newer....many have tried, failed, and moved on.

^yeah...I was going to mention the 1.8, but it's got its own EGR that may cause grief w/the 2.5's. And the ECU may not run the 2.2/ 2.5 injectors.

Did this overheat - ever? - If so, it may run for another 100K or <5K....depends on how badly the rod bearings were damaged - if @ all. As you've probably read, HG fail = Overheat = (more likely) bottom-end bearing failure. So, yeah...these engines deserve their infamous reputation. p.s. It'll also run in a Legacy from '90-'94....more work, but swap the TB and IM harness, and it's pretty much the same as described above.

Hi, Just 'adding fuel' doesn't do you any good w/out Engine Management (EM). Are you coming from another brand/background that you have for reference? If you're new to cars in general than there's a ton of info online about upgrading a car's fueling needs, but it's not 'just because'. The main issue w/the EJ22's is the lack of tuning options. If yours is in a '90-'94 there are limited options; if '95-'01 basically none that don't require a lot of wiring - harness merging, ECU-swapping, etc. Do a search on NA-T -turbocharging a non-turbo Subaru - for info....been done many times and as long you're not greedy it'll run for a long time too. My Link. TD

Don't know what you're stating...but I updated my post above to clarify FUEL filter. I wouldn't bother with EITHER filter. GL, TD

Recommendation: -Do the standard (on here @ least) Drain>Refill>Drive (thru all the gears a few miles) 3/Three times and be done with it....sounds like the Subaru ATF is recommended (required?). - As the fuel filter is in tank, find something else to obsess on...like the HG.... FWIW: I 'assume' the filter in the tank is a cost-saving/cutting measure. It's not really all that tough to access a fuel pump/sender/filter on a Subaru (or wasn't on these getting older models).

The trans filter is on the driver's side...looks just like an OIL filter. It's designed to last the life of the car. But if the fluid's never been changed it may be worth doing. IMHO, DO NOT just buy a Wix or other 'oil filter' - get the genuine Subaru filter. The fuel filter is either by the driver's side strut tower or in the tank....not sure when that changed on Subarus....more searching and you'll get your answer...just Google it.

I'm referring to either an aftermarket 'kit' or DIY. Nothing as 'fancy' as a Subaru-based upgrade. You can find these on Amazon, etc. for $20 and they bump your voltage to the HL bulbs a couple of volts, which means BRIGHTER lights. Like THIS....ensure it's designer for you HL socket type, H3, H2, etc type socket.