wtdash

...and consider buying/building a relay kit to get Full juice to the HL...makes a big difference, IMHO.

^QFT

Wrong forum. But i have a set...look here if it's what you need, let me know.

You wrench? Pull and Save that rear VC (if that's the issue) to replace yours. The trans doesn't need to come out (if it's @ all like fixing the 4EAT's TB issue).

Looking @ the OF site, I found your *-3AA under the other engine listed for the Forester (there are 2 NA 2.5's and the turbo 2.5), which shows an earlier mfg. date. As yours is an early-ish '03 (build date in 10/02) there may have been a change mid-year. To answer your question, I can't - directly. But if they both use the same speedo sensor, it 'should' be OK....somewhere in there Subaru changed to a wheel-sensor/ABS (?) based speedo vs. the one in the trans by the dipstick on the pass. side. Per OF, the FD ratio of both is 4.11.

FWIW...225-60-16 rubbed on the rear struts of my OB-strutted '96 Legacy. Strut and Lift upgrades are covered on here 'ad infinitum' so please search. Quick answer: Get some '96-'99 OB struts or '98-'08 Forester struts, and spacers (Paranoid Fabrications is one). Bolt-on, alignment recommended, and Go.

Not to be too picky, but a 205-55-16 (24.9" tall), which is the stock tire size for some Imprezas of those years, or a 205-50-16 (24.1") would be closer to your stock 185-70-14's height (24.2") and won't mess w/your speedo as much. But if you want a little 'lift' Gloyale's will give you that, too....the 225-55-16 may rub on the rear spring perches. Probably wouldn't go over 215 on the width.

For USA Subarus, 2005 was the 1st year of the return of the MAF-based engines (EJ253), w/out the i-Avls system, which started on '06+ models. I'd shy away from any engine that didn't match up w/the i-AVLS system.....less hassle. Should be enough of the NON-avls EJ20's out there to make it work w/your Baja's Intake Manifold?

OBD2 scanner doesn't help w/Trans issues, AFAIK. The 'secret handshake' should tell you the code, if any, that is stored. After checking the fluid, and the pan, you (we) need that to proceed.

Read THIS...and Google P0011 Subaru for even more fun. If (s)he hasn't been changing the oil every 3500 miles w/synthetic, I'd bet the turbo...and possibly other $$ things are worn.

Maybe, but I've not determined it that way. All '95-'98 Subarus that had 2.2s will work for your car as they had the same 4.11 Final Drive ratio. Also, you can probably use a '90-'91 (non-turbo) Legacy trans as they were also 4.11. Any others were either 3.90 FDR or 4.44, depending on year and engine and you have to change your rear diff. No '99 will work due to the changes that year.

NOT an Ej22, but bought an '03-ish 2.5 which had a broken T-belt....I was 'told' it was just valves...but @ least one piston was cracked too....probably pics on here....YEP.

HI, '97 had a keyless entry system that had an optional security system - dealer installed, IIRC. Should be a small red LED light on the dash and a 'security horn'(?) under the hood - w/a hood sensor. But I've never (yet) read of that causing your symptoms.

^+1 I wouldn't either on review. Will edit later.

Edit: TZ1A4ZCDCA What This Fits - See Link, but don't trust it 100%. TZ1A4ZCDBA (assuming that 2 is a typo above) What This Fits - See Link, but don't trust it 100%.

This may help: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_Forester Note that models sold in Japan - JDM (Japanese domestic models) - sometimes are avl. a year earlier than their USA versions.....but I think the 2014 is the same for the current version. Also, Subaru has a habit of doing mid-cycle (generation) updates, so there may be slight exterior/interior changes of note.

Hi and Welcome, Re-doing the door switch is outside my comfort zone, so no help there....sounds a bit drastic, but us 'average' height type don't have the issues. RE: moving the seats back, you might find that you can modify the 'stop' that keeps the seat from going off its track and gain a couple. Also, any seat from a '90-'04 Legacy - Outback, GT, etc., '02-'07 Impreza - OB, WRX, etc. or '98-'08 Forester will fit in there, too. You might find one w/more travel?? Maybe find a local wrecking yard and see if any of them have more leg room??

+1>>>1999 = EJ253 - look @ the 'tag' on the driver's strut tower to confirm. Personally, I WOULD do the HG's on any used EJxxx engine. It's a 'maintenance' item in my book. Depending your local options, get the heads milled, too. It sounds like this may be your 'DD' so you'd want it as 'tip-top' as possible? If you don't mind the work then put a new Tbelt (pulleys/idlers, tensioner, WP) w/the oil pump (I won't dismiss GD's suggestion) and drive it. May go another 100K. Your 2008 may have the External leak...but keep an eye on it @ each OCI (oil change interval) and go from there...they're not bulletproof, but also don't need 'kids gloves'. And just to nit-pick, piston-slap isn't the same as rod-bearing knock...from what I've read. One's a little extra room between piston/rings and cylinder walls and the other is a warning to get out the checkbook. :-( Td

Larry, This might help: opposedforces.com\parts....>>>Model>>drill down to the parts section>>Train>>Diff (trans) and look under Gear Set-hypoid I can't get there @ work. TD

>>.and take the cap off the brake master cylinder>>>make sure it doesn't overflow.

+1^ The Caliper bracket bolts that connect to the hub are 17mm. The caliper slider bolts are 14mm that connect to the bracket. There should be 2 holes that a 8 or 10mm bolt will screw into to 'push off' the rotor if stuck....like using a puller. Crank pulley is 22mm / 7/8". There's an access hole underneath the TB that a long screw driver or similar tool can be used to hold the flexplate - if an Automatic / 4EAT. 1990-1996 EJ22 had the HLA self-adustable valves ('90-'95 had dual port heads); '97-'98 were SLA (screw adjuster - '96-'98 had Single-port). Look under and see if you have a dual-port or Single-port exhaust to help determine the type. You might need to adjust the valves if SLA. I'd replace the plugs and wires b4 the coil pack....and they're usually cheap @ the local Pull and Save, if you're a visitor. There are FSM's posted online that can help w/these as well as many DIY posted on Youtube, etc. GL, Td

And your buddies @ NASIOC.com may have more WRX-specific info.

Hi, All maintenance records? Did the Tbelt include the idlers/pulleys, tensioner, WP/Tstat? Belts infrequently break; idlers and/or WP more frequently 'freeze'. Engine is INTERFERENCE. Autocheck/Carfax? Carfax may show some service history. HG will need done. i'm in the 'HG's are a maintenance item' camp (like Tbelt, etc.). Every EJ-series engine, esp. the 2.5, are prone to HG issues. Subarus can burn oil....but depends on How much? 1/2 way down is less than a Qt. (I think), but is more than I'd like to see. When was the last oil change? Maybe 4 months/ 4K miles ago makes sense. Last month/ 1K miles, is 'concerning'. Rear Separator plate can leak; Rear Main less so. ATF serviced or Clutch done? IMHO, 124K is where $$ things start to need replaced/repaired, so don't buy this if @ the limit of your budget. Ensure your bro has a few K to fix thing$.

Hi, This is a CVT transmission, and I don't think it's still an option. I looked thru the OM and it's not listing the old FWD fuse trick. It was on the pass. side strut tower in the '90's and moved to the fuse block by the battery later. Why? GL, Td

No offense, but this is also incorrect. 1996 was OBD2 (1995 for some Subaru models). The phase 2 was a '99+ for all the 4EATs. Although years may be 'the same time' in your book, I don't think most of USMB'ers would agree....there are just too many differences. Td