wtdash

'98 means it's out of a Legacy or Impreza w/the 2.2. Was the car's body thrashed? If not, it could be in there due a failed 4EAT....but not common. What's the ODO show? Did you check/smell the ATF? Drain a bit out/inspect the drain plug? I'd suspect (for an SVX) you'd also need the flexplate from the 2.2 - TC's on the 2.2 and 2.5's are different size....but that likely went w/the missing engine>>>and the rear diff, as mentioned. BTW, I don't know (much @ all ) about the SVX's rear pinion flange bolt spacing, but it changed in '95/'96 on other Subarus...you can -probably- move yours to the 4.11 rear diff, but again....not sure. In this case, I'd pass due the 'high zoot' stuff you found. This may have had an engine swap that taxed that ol' Auto. Personally, I'd hold out for an '96-'98 OB, (maybe GT) or '98 Forester 4EAT. Less likely to be abused and should provide some extra kick in the SVX. I'd pull the Carfax or Autocheck of the donor car - sometimes you can get service history (esp. w/the Carfax). (For <$10....if you search.) A '98 Impreza would have different rear strut top mounts/ top hats than your '96....you could swap yours over (depending on spring taper?) and they'd bolt up. The 2-pot will bolt up WITH the caliper brackets, but will likely require 16" wheels to clear. You can measure the diameter of the rotor to figure that out. GL, TD

You'll want to crawl underneath and look UP @ the HG area to check for leaks. ....Google it for pics. GL, TD

Indeed...too much swapping going on in my head w/the rocks. Thanks

No offense, but after that I'd just bite the wallet and get one from the dealer. I'm not clear what milkshake machine would do so can't comment on the symptoms (actually I used to make them w/one, but doesn't compute),. What did the shop advise besides getting a HD axle? GL, TD

Edit: Read the Post, wtdash.

Tangent: Does the horn work? If NOT then it's possibly related to the 'roll connector'/clockspring.

Sounds like EGR tube. You can try THIS, or you'll have to drill and tap that head.....that's what's done on most of the JDM imported engines when swapped.

HI, If your speedo is off 8% w/those tires, than something's not right. They sound too small/short. Did you verify this w/a GPS/ Phone App? Are you sure those 215/55R-17 are correct? What's shown on the driver's side door jam (in the UsA it lists tire sizes)? I ran an 1" taller tire on my last Subaru and that was off 8%, but expected. You can use something like this to compare tire sizes: https://tiresize.com/comparison/ The suspension shouldn't matter on the same vehicle....might be some changes to the inner fender wells so the tires don't rub, but unlikely. The 225/55R-17 should fit no problem, IMHO. And the Legacy / Outback year ranges for USA were 2000-2004, 2005-2009, 2010-2014, etc. ....every 5 years....Japan/JDM models are/were? one year ahead of USA.

HI, As we didn't get the 1.6 we may not be as helpful as your fellow Aussie Mates. You'll want to also check your PM to get familiar w/the FSM....your new best friend. TD

I see you got the codes but did you try the FWD fuse under the hood to confirm it's the Duty C? If it works and the TB goes away, it's NOT the Duty C it's the transfer clutches (mechanical). If it makes no diff, then it's the Duty C and electrical. Also, have you done the 3 Drains > Refills>>Drives routine to clean out the ATF? With 270K and living in FL, I'd probably just drive it w/the FWD fuse installed if it works?

HI, What T-stat? OEM or Xact are usually the only ones to use. Heater Core? You can bypass it to test. Could still need burped. Either use the radiator bleed valve or WHEN COLD fill the radiator and fill the upper tube from the radiator side 'til both are full.

Hi, First - any turbo upgrade requires a new tune of the ECU. There may be opensource options such as RomRaider and ECUFlash - w/the Tactrix cable - and requires someone skilled to use them, or COBB may make an AP tuner that'll work. Otherwise it's risky to put on any bigger turbo. Price really depends on the path chosen. $150 on low end; $500+ is easy if you get on a dyno and have it pro-tuned. Personally, I always suggest people get a tune - even on a stock turbo car - to get better performance AND reliability/longevity out of the engine. The stock TD04 is a good turbo if you want to keep the turbo lag @ minimum - it's not as bad w/a 5-speed - as it'll pull from 2500K RPM. You can run them up to 16-17PSI before they're just blowing hot air. Stock is about 12psi, IIRC. So that's another 40-50HP/torque (potentially). And yes, turbos are a maintenance item - like a timing belt, tune up, etc. - as they'll fall apart and send bad stuff INTO the engine. Another common upgrade is an STI turbo: VF39/43/48 - will all bolt on and should fit the TMIC w/slight modifications. Baja's HAVE THE SAME INJECTORS as AN STI from '04-'07, so you're good there...but as stated YOU'LL NEED A TUNE. I would definitely consider replacing the stock turbo inlet pipe, too. Yes, it's PITA to replace. The Aftermarket - name brands - w/silicone hose are better. It's very important to be changing the oil regularly @ 3500 mile or less w/ synthetic, remove/replace the turbo and oil line filter / screens, and keep the other maintenance items up to date. I'm not a big fan of used/higher-mileage Subaru turbo engines, as they just don't hold up, but maybe that's due to the fact that peeps treat them like any old NA engine and they get neglected??? NASIOC is still a good resource for used parts, as is Ebait.. VERY important to take heed of a Seller's Feedback to ensure some level of buyer confidence. BTW< the Baja uses the same turbo as the '04-'08 Forester XT, and '02-'07 WRX - TD04 (I'd reuse your stock wastegate as there were some changes thru the years)....even though the Baja is more like a Legacy GT/Outback XT - they used a different style turbo flange and TMIC and aren't easily compatible. GL, TD

Hi, If the 4EAT and/or the Duty B is dying there may be codes stored in the TCU - trans computer. Does the POWER light flash when you initially start it? TD

^+1 I don't see that #12 code often, and the #35 is a common 'extra code' caused by something else - Fix the Knock Sensor and O2. The KS frequently CRACKED and there was a Recall (?) for the '90-'95 version. I'd check it ...as a bad one will put your car in 'Limp' mode but shouldn't affect starting.

CM, "My nephew was on the ball and before I could even report what I was told here, he will drain the fluid , and replace...". Just to clarify, and not be (too) picky, he'll need to either do a flush (assuming a shop has the tools), or do what some of us backyard mechs do and Drain>Refill>Drive x 3 times. to get the majority of the ATF out of there - half is in the pan and will drain out; half is in the TC / Torque Converter and will not. I think the 4EAT / Automatics hold about 10 quarts, per OM: Also, and I may be in the minority - so 'grain of salt' - but I'm not a fan of chemical or power ATF flushes on cars over 100K IF they've never had a trans service. It might cause grief w/the seals = walking home. If you'd had it done and yours is used to the every 30K mile ATF service it's likely not a problem.

Hi, Since you're just a bit north of me in BC, I'm guessing that's 200K KMs, not Yankee miles, correct? 120K miles is NOT a lot, but I will tell (warn) you that the likelihood of Head Gasket repair is looming. But remember, car payments are usually less than car repairs - over the course of a year....but being stranded is another cause for concern. - and it sounds like your wife is already looking for a new car...... I personally wouldn't blame a mech/Nephew for not seeing a frozen caliper. When those Tire Changers are swapping Winter>>Summer they likeliy do it in their sleep considering the dozens/hundreds/thousands (?) a season they do.* What's the rust like on cars in GF? In N. Idaho it's not as big a deal as the midwest/new england states that salt to taste and then add another serving...just in case they missed a spot. If you're in a rust-belt, then a frozen caliper is gonna happen. Edit: I re-read this, "Note the brakes had been done only a year and a half prior to this" so What was done on the prior brake service? New pads? Rotors? They can 'turn rotors' on the car, so they may not have had to touch the calipers (unless I don't know how that's done>>>GD?) GL, Td * Tangent: I had a set of cheap chrome hub caps/wheel covers on an old '85 Subaru w/the black steel wheels. Once when I took it in for a tire change, they took the cover for the real thing and broke two 'chrome lug nuts' off b4 they figured it out. They glued 'em back on and I was good to go.

As noted, that 60-65mph vibration is frequently a tire balance issue. Seems to be the perfect speed for it to show up. They put the out-of-balance tire(s) on front.

they've done that: I'd be looking @ the cam or crank sensors and the MAF. Has it ever just stopped running, but then start right back up? sure sign of a bad MAF. Check your codes here: http://legacycentral.org/library/literature/codes.htm If the CEL is NOT on...do it anyway as there's likely something stored - per the instructions. GL, TD

HI and Welcome, Have you put a Code scanner on it? whether or NOT the CEL is on, there may codes stored in the ECU/computer that'll help. usually, we'll suggest people ensure the Tune-up is UP TO DATE - plugs, wires, aiir/fuel filters,etc. Is this the 2.2 w/5-speed or 2.5 w/4EAT (Automatic)? I'd pick on the CTS/coolant temp sensor, MAF/Mass airflow sensor, and Cam or Crank sensors. TD

Yeah...as stated above, your choices are actually 3 very different cars...that all happen to have the same logo. Based on your initial post, get the Impreza in whatever body style - sedan or hatch - fits your needs. - It'll have the lowest operating costs (gets the best MPG, too) - future tune-ups, oil changes, tires, etc. - Cheapest insurance - ? Caveat: Florida doesn't get a whole lot of snow, so the AWD of the WRX or Impreza doesn't do much good. RE: comparing differences in Impreza, this site has a ton of info: http://www.cars101.com and for the 2017 Impreza: http://www.cars101.com/subaru/impreza/impreza2017.html

Check for STORED codes>>>>HERE.

+1 Found this from one of my regular online resources - see attached - should be for RHD models, per the cover. I can PM the link to the full manual if needed. Looks like 9.4:1.

G'day, We didn't get that engine in the US so not a heap of info, but here's a bit: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_EJ_engine#EJ16 GL, TD

+1 As a side-note, the '03 should be MAP-based ECU system whereas the '05 is MAF-based - and maybe one has EGR?. So...don't throw out the '05's IM and harness...you'll want to move it on over tot he '03's engine. Not sure, but I think both use TOP-feed injectors so the '03's 70K ones may work in the '05's fuel rails. If the LL Bean has that self-leveling suspension there may be some tricks to swapping it out, too (I've never done that)..... but the '03 should still fit...being Legos and all. :-) Td

Howdy, Pull out the ashtray, get down under the steering wheel and look UP @ the two screws inside the upper lip (?) of the ash tray bracket..Voila! You'll need a stubby or right-angle phillips to get @ those two. Td