wtdash

HI, Please remember to Search, as this is one of the most covered swaps for Subarus - right after the 2.5 to 2.2 swap. :-) yes, this will work. You may have some small differences w/the vacuum lines - the '98 had the Charcoal canister back by the rear of the wagon - the '96 is pass. front under the hood. Also, there may be a wire to the P/S pump sensor on the '98 that won't be there on the '96. Good news is that the '98 has more HP/Torque than the '96 AND it can run on Regular. Remember! Do the Head Gasket/ HG BEFORE you install any EJ25/2.5 engine (2.2 is recommended, too,). Unless you have documented proof they've been done.

Baja Sales attached.

No offese to GD, but did some # crunching on one of the 'Auto Sales Data' sites and the mid-size trucks are doing OK. See attached. You can't (fairly) compare to the full-size Ford/Chevy/Dodge as they're in a league of their own. Even the 3rd place Dodge Ram sold almost 500,000 trucks in 2016. The Tundra and Titan are even behind the mid-size trucks. I'm surprised the Titan is still around. As noted, the Tacoma is still King, but the updated Colorado/Canyon are not that far behind. The Ford Ranger is due to return, which will likely put a dent in the others' #'s. The Ridgeline IS in a sub-category/niche all its own, although it's considered a 'truck', and its buyers may be a unique group. The newly updated version is still selling well early in '17. But I agree that Subaru would be reluctant to re-enter that market unless they can do something w/broader appeal to the masses. Based on their current success, w/sales increasing year-over-year for the approx. the last 6 years, up 3% in 2015, and 11% in 2016, I don't see them changing their focus on gaining ground in the strong SUV/CUV markets. Last I read they were having some issues keeping up w/demand (cars101.com). The main issue, I see, is that the economy really dictates how well a niche model sells. Buyers are more open to spending $$ on something that may not be mainstream when they're not worried about paying the mortgage/losing their home in the next 6-months. You wouldn't see the Hellcat/Demon, Focus RS, Ford GT, Chevy SS (disco'd), possibly a new Supra, Civic Type R, Jeep truck (!), Hummer H1 return, etc, if the USA was in a Recession. FWIW, Td

Hi and Welcome, Have you yet driven the Crosstrek? They're a little weak in the power dept. Only one engine option: 2.0 148HP. The OB has the 3.6 option w/over 250. And the '17 OB is 'all new' supposedly, so might take a bit more search to see what's out there for the after-market.....the good news is that Subaru has been 'growing the brand' to the point that even those outside the Pacific NW's denizens are buying them more often. This usually leads to broader after-market support. One thing to note is that the OB and Foresters traditionally have had more ground clearance than some competitors, w/out the additional 'height' of a full SUV. You'd want to compare specs. Although 2" isn't much in Jeep-land, it's probably going to put you in a Stage 2 upgrade path, where you'd need to do more than just 'spacers'. The CVT question is valid. Not something I've read about, "How does it do w/non-stock, (aka taller) tires?" You could download the Owner's Manual and see what it says. Subaru of America (SOA) may also be worth a call/email. As noted by LT, dealing w/the warranty issues may not be worth it. Subaru hasn't proven to be any more lenient on 'mods' than other brands, from what I've come across. Unless you buy something sold @ the dealer under the Subaru label, it might be used against you. MPG 'shouldn't' be affected any differently than any other vehicle w/bigger/taller tires.... Your Jeep background probably knows where to look for that info?>>>>Unless that CVT has an (unknown) issue w/them. GL, TD

Yeah...the 2003 doesn't have the i-AVLS heads, so those won't work and you'll get a CEL. I don't 'think' you can swap heads or IM's either, due to internal differences.

+1 to all the above ....And do you have any trusted/recommended Subie mechanics in your area? That's the place to get it done right....not the dealer. Search on here/online for upgrades, lifts, etc. There was a lifted Baja on ebay a few weeks back that was 'bada$$' but was WAY overpriced. They do seem to be holding their own in value, but that may be for the low-mileage gems.

Hi, We'll want to see pics. :-) As you seem to know, the SUS was an actual model in '97-'99. Per Cars101.com, yours was one of a 'few' avl. in NE: No offense, but yours may not be as unique as you're thinking. If it has the 2.5/EJ25D and the SUS emblem on the trunk, it's probably a factory model - not necessarily a 'demo' as stated. For best exposure you'll want to list it on Ebay. Or post on the Subie forums. GL, TD

google: Old:Tz1a3zs2aa 1999 Forester - only site OTHER than Russian was from an Australia site and it showed this trans attached to an EJ20. 'New": tz1a3zc3aa 2002 Forester - 2001-2002 - parts.subaru.com I'm going out on limb here....that original trans you removed was not the right one, either. I can't get to opposedforces.com from work but if you use that site and drill down to YOUR car - 2001 Outback - you'll find the 4EAT listed under the transmission section. And if you look under the TRAIN >> Differential (trans)>.Gear-set hypoid you'll see the FDR.

Overheated bad enough to warp heads would mean - to me - the rod bearings got 'crispy'. They are the common side-effect of a bad overheat: Replace the HG>>Replace the engine. :-( Take it to a Subie mech and have a Buyer's inspection done...or just keep looking.

Hi and welcome to the USMB forum. Can you take the car to a mechanic / technician and have a Buyer's Inspection done? It may have suspension or other issues that need to be fixed. Unless all Swiss drive like Alain Menu or Andrea Chiesa, understeer shouldn't appear unless driven quite 'briskly' (fast). Good luck, TD

Hi, Do you have a tag like this under the hood/bonnet by the left strut tower? Note the Transmission type. Make sure it matches the ID on the transmission -like this but may be on top:

Hi and Welcome, - If you've read up on here, you've likely seen that the 1st potential remedy is to Drain>Refill>Drive - and repeat 3 times w/the ATF. Done that ? (I'm assuming this an Automatic / 4EAT.) - Do you have the AT Temp light flashing? If so, check - pull the codes w/the TCU/TCM handshake. - Put the FWD fuse in to verify whether it's Mechanical or Electrical. If the fuse does nothing, it's Electrical and you Duty C is dead; if the TB is gone w/the FWD fuse IN it's Mechanical and you need the Clutch Pack (CP). - I've not priced a CP, but the Duty C sounds about right. You can fix your CP by filing down the grooves, too. If you still go JDM remember to verify 2-3 times that the FD ratio is the same as yours: 4.44.

Surely, w/1740 posts you've read this! :-) Yep on the fronts; Nope on the rears as they used a different top mount bolt pattern '95+. Swap the rear top hats to yours - make sure the spring matches as some years are tapered. You can also use up thru 2008 Forester struts - w/the same caveats in top hats. 2003-2008 give the most lift, IIRC. I'd also surmise there's a few (dozen?) posts on swapping out the air suspension opt./standard (?) also avl. on the LS/LSi, etc. models, per Cars101.com. GL, TD

Not an AT - type tire, so not comparable to the Yoko, but good to know they work as an AS. As this is the Off-Road forum, focusing on tires that work well (better than?) off the pavement, too.

See the attached for the VIN tag. As noted the TZxxx is 4EAT; TYxxxx is 5MT. Some of the online VIN decoders aren't 100% accurate; the VIN tag won't lie.

We call them a MAF - mass airflow sensor - on here (and most Subie forums). Non-OEM shouldn't be a problem, but the issue is different now, correct? If the same, clean it w/some MAF sensor spray (brake cleaner is considered too harsh), or just swap in another used GREEN label plastic JECS or AUTECS MAF (22680AA160) from any '92-'98 Subaru Impreza, Legacy or Forester....'99 OB/GT/SUS, too.

TireRack.com as of today no longer had any stock of the 215/70R-15 (26.9"), 205/70R15 (Stock '96-'99 OB), 215/60R16 (stock '98+ Forester S) or 215/65R16 (27") sizes. The 205/70R15 was on 'closeout' yesterday and low stock. They are still listed on Yoko's site. I've emailed both TR and Yoko to see what the status of these tires will be. Was looking to buy a set but not if I can't buy replacements down the road (pun intended). Anyone have an inside connection? Edit: From Yokohama - although they didn't mention WHAT the replacement is: Edit: Heard back from Tire Rack....this sounds like ALL AT-S are disco'd?

Coolant Temp Sensor

HI, Sure this is covered online. One example: https://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=42159 TL;DR: They'll fit but rub on full steering lock against the inner fender wells. Assuming the 'later model rims' are '96-'99 OB or Forester?

Hi, - CTS is a cheap 'fix' (if not easy to access). - What about your O2 sensors. - clean IAC valve? - Clean-up all grounds. Tangent: What EJ25 did you use on the previous build (ej25+ej22) and What HG?

^+1 The AT temp light is probably flashing @ startup - or not. Regardless, Pull the codes using the handshake posted on here/online. Report back, and we'll go from there. Td

Hi, Go read up on the LegacyGT forum - 4th Gen - . LIkely more info there. http://legacygt.com/forums/forumdisplay.php/fourth-generation-legacy-2005-2009-10.html GL, Td

the 'click' is likely the Brake/Shift Interlock sensor, which requires the brake to be depressed to (help) avoid the unintended acceleration events. Not shifiting out of Park may be a mis-aligned AT shifter, brake pedal sensor/switch, ignition switch, etc....

You're running in 'limp' mode likely due to VSS codes. P0500 was a recent code on here or another Subie forum I read. Google "Subaru p0500" (all zeroes) and see what shows up....or wait for the smart guys on here. :-) p1507 may be related to Neutral Switch. P1540 may be the VSS sensor. If this one is bad, it may cause the others. My money is on this. It's on the Pass. side of the transmission, near the Differential dip stick: The tip 'spins' on the gear in the trans to send a electronic signal to the speedo, and breaks/wears out. @ 260K it's been a-round a bit. useful: https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1785548 & https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1785548 Td

^+1Check Engine Light on? If so, check the codes - even if you 'think' you know what the codes were for some previous issue. - Or Tuneups? - use ONLY NGK plugs and wires - Or Fuel filter? - Or CTS/coolant temp sensor - Or O2 Sensor