wtdash
-
Posts
1863 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
19
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Store
Everything posted by wtdash
-
Overheated bad enough to warp heads would mean - to me - the rod bearings got 'crispy'. They are the common side-effect of a bad overheat: Replace the HG>>Replace the engine. :-( Take it to a Subie mech and have a Buyer's inspection done...or just keep looking. -
Hi and welcome to the USMB forum. Can you take the car to a mechanic / technician and have a Buyer's Inspection done? It may have suspension or other issues that need to be fixed. Unless all Swiss drive like Alain Menu or Andrea Chiesa, understeer shouldn't appear unless driven quite 'briskly' (fast). Good luck, TD
-
Hi, Do you have a tag like this under the hood/bonnet by the left strut tower? Note the Transmission type. Make sure it matches the ID on the transmission -like this but may be on top:
-
Hi and Welcome, - If you've read up on here, you've likely seen that the 1st potential remedy is to Drain>Refill>Drive - and repeat 3 times w/the ATF. Done that ? (I'm assuming this an Automatic / 4EAT.) - Do you have the AT Temp light flashing? If so, check - pull the codes w/the TCU/TCM handshake. - Put the FWD fuse in to verify whether it's Mechanical or Electrical. If the fuse does nothing, it's Electrical and you Duty C is dead; if the TB is gone w/the FWD fuse IN it's Mechanical and you need the Clutch Pack (CP). - I've not priced a CP, but the Duty C sounds about right. You can fix your CP by filing down the grooves, too. If you still go JDM remember to verify 2-3 times that the FD ratio is the same as yours: 4.44.
-
Surely, w/1740 posts you've read this! :-) Yep on the fronts; Nope on the rears as they used a different top mount bolt pattern '95+. Swap the rear top hats to yours - make sure the spring matches as some years are tapered. You can also use up thru 2008 Forester struts - w/the same caveats in top hats. 2003-2008 give the most lift, IIRC. I'd also surmise there's a few (dozen?) posts on swapping out the air suspension opt./standard (?) also avl. on the LS/LSi, etc. models, per Cars101.com. GL, TD
-
Not an AT - type tire, so not comparable to the Yoko, but good to know they work as an AS. As this is the Off-Road forum, focusing on tires that work well (better than?) off the pavement, too.
-
See the attached for the VIN tag. As noted the TZxxx is 4EAT; TYxxxx is 5MT. Some of the online VIN decoders aren't 100% accurate; the VIN tag won't lie.
-
We call them a MAF - mass airflow sensor - on here (and most Subie forums). Non-OEM shouldn't be a problem, but the issue is different now, correct? If the same, clean it w/some MAF sensor spray (brake cleaner is considered too harsh), or just swap in another used GREEN label plastic JECS or AUTECS MAF (22680AA160) from any '92-'98 Subaru Impreza, Legacy or Forester....'99 OB/GT/SUS, too.
-
TireRack.com as of today no longer had any stock of the 215/70R-15 (26.9"), 205/70R15 (Stock '96-'99 OB), 215/60R16 (stock '98+ Forester S) or 215/65R16 (27") sizes. The 205/70R15 was on 'closeout' yesterday and low stock. They are still listed on Yoko's site. I've emailed both TR and Yoko to see what the status of these tires will be. Was looking to buy a set but not if I can't buy replacements down the road (pun intended). Anyone have an inside connection? Edit: From Yokohama - although they didn't mention WHAT the replacement is: Edit: Heard back from Tire Rack....this sounds like ALL AT-S are disco'd?
-
Coolant Temp Sensor
-
HI, Sure this is covered online. One example: https://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=42159 TL;DR: They'll fit but rub on full steering lock against the inner fender wells. Assuming the 'later model rims' are '96-'99 OB or Forester?
-
Hi, - CTS is a cheap 'fix' (if not easy to access). - What about your O2 sensors. - clean IAC valve? - Clean-up all grounds. Tangent: What EJ25 did you use on the previous build (ej25+ej22) and What HG?
-
^+1 The AT temp light is probably flashing @ startup - or not. Regardless, Pull the codes using the handshake posted on here/online. Report back, and we'll go from there. Td
-
Hi, Go read up on the LegacyGT forum - 4th Gen - . LIkely more info there. http://legacygt.com/forums/forumdisplay.php/fourth-generation-legacy-2005-2009-10.html GL, Td
-
97 outback
wtdash replied to dp213's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
the 'click' is likely the Brake/Shift Interlock sensor, which requires the brake to be depressed to (help) avoid the unintended acceleration events. Not shifiting out of Park may be a mis-aligned AT shifter, brake pedal sensor/switch, ignition switch, etc.... -
You're running in 'limp' mode likely due to VSS codes. P0500 was a recent code on here or another Subie forum I read. Google "Subaru p0500" (all zeroes) and see what shows up....or wait for the smart guys on here. :-) p1507 may be related to Neutral Switch. P1540 may be the VSS sensor. If this one is bad, it may cause the others. My money is on this. It's on the Pass. side of the transmission, near the Differential dip stick: The tip 'spins' on the gear in the trans to send a electronic signal to the speedo, and breaks/wears out. @ 260K it's been a-round a bit. useful: https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1785548 & https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1785548 Td
-
^+1Check Engine Light on? If so, check the codes - even if you 'think' you know what the codes were for some previous issue. - Or Tuneups? - use ONLY NGK plugs and wires - Or Fuel filter? - Or CTS/coolant temp sensor - Or O2 Sensor
-
EJ SERIES on Wikipedia. 2.5 cylinder engines '251' = EJ251 EJ25D, EJ251 (map-based), EJ253 (maf-based), etc.
-
Edit: 2 minutes late...but didn't know Cali's restrictions. You're wanting a '95-'98 2.2 for the easiest swap. '90-'94 can be done, but needs a bit more work. The '91-'94 turbo engines require an ECU/computer to run 'em and there isn't anything that'll work w/your '99. You'll want to do so more research if you don't just go w/another '96-'99 EJ25D from a Legacy LSi, GT or OB, '98 Forester or '98 Impreza RS, or do the 2.2 swap. This assumes the original engine in there is DOA. Usually, you can just replace the HG, R&R the heads and it's good - well, @ least 'til rod bearings go to Tijuana. IMHO, If you're getting the car for $400, that's a steal, so buy a decent 2.2, and maintained it'll do 300K w/just regular maintenance.
-
Hi, If the CEL is on or has been on, pull/get the codes and report back. There 'should' be codes for a VSS or 2, if it's related to the sensors. But it could be in the cluster like the '99 Legacy models - as noted above. 2006 was about the time Subaru changed from the gear drive speedo sensor in the Trans by the diff oil dipstick, to the newer version - of which I'm not familiar but think it's related to the ABS??? Maybe? The misfires could be related to the code as well. Here's a link w/some info. GL, TD
-
Hi, That's a cool ol' Legacy...I saw the MI one in the local PullnSave a couple years back, and one in MT on CL last year (too much work to save). There were approx. 3 extra 'trims' in '94 that marked the end of the 1st Generation Legacy. I "think" the Mi were (mountain) West and Ti were East Coast, maybe? It may be a Ti Outdoor Wagon that has the below, per Cars101.com.
-
^+1 on the 2.2 swap. Engine was probably ran 'til it died, which is why it won't start? '99 was also the 1st year of the Phase 2 4EAT. They're known for 'delayed engagement'. It's noted on this Forum that it can be fixed or improved w/an additive, IIRC.
-
^+1 Unfortunately, that front 'upstream' O2 sensor is an expen$ive Wideband- type AF sensor - you can find the Subaru OEM parts on ebay or amazon for much cheaper than the dealer. ......REALLY should be new and OEM quality. The O2 sensor should be in the exhaust header/manifold: http://www.scoobymods.com/showthread.php/front-oxygen-sensor-o2-sensor-9398.html - I'd also clean your MAF/IAT sensor - carefully - as they can cause issues. FYI: 1. This model also has a Catalytic converter in the up pipe (before the turbo) w/w/an EGT sensor. Highly suggested to replace the up pipe w/an STi catless version (find 'em used on Subie sites).The CC in the up pipe can melt / break / come apart and send all that mess into the turbo. There is a resistor-mod (same as on WRX) to eliminate the EGT sensor - it's only there to 'save' the CC from melting so not required w/a catless up pipe. 2. Read up on removing/replacing the screens / filters in the oil lines that go to the heads and turbo....they require maintenance. 3. Change your oil EVERY 3K miles / 4500 kms...one of the best/easiest ways to keep the turbo engine happy.
-
Hey 1LT...I thought just about ALL of CO west of Denver was scenic to a Texan....and even to this NW resident (spent a couple ski bummin' seasons in the area). I believe Pikes Peak is now paved, so not much adventure in that, but still is likely worth a trip up....depending on snow. Have fun, TD
-
- Vibration @ idle can be BAD CV Axles (yes, really). Esp. if el cheapos were installed. - The creak may be the top strut mounts (top hats) or springs either wearing or just dry. If you notice it LESS after driving in the rain, then I'd suspect this.
