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- Vibration @ idle can be BAD CV Axles (yes, really). Esp. if el cheapos were installed. - The creak may be the top strut mounts (top hats) or springs either wearing or just dry. If you notice it LESS after driving in the rain, then I'd suspect this.

Why? If yours directly addresses the issue, then No Problem. My P.S. is/was directed @ the OP - Ethan - he has 3 posts w/the same info: 2 New threads and one 'hi-jack' of another.

Hi, Why are you focusing on EGR? online: P0300 SUBARU - Random Cylinder Misfire Detected Possible causes: Faulty spark plug (s) Faulty ignition coil (s) Clogged or faulty fuel injector (s) Intake air leak Fuel injectors harness is open or shorted Fuel Injectors circuit poor electrical connection Ignition coils harness is open or shorted Ignition coils circuit poor electrical connection Insufficient cylinders compression Incorrect fuel pressure Read more: https://www.autocodes.com/p0300_subaru.html P.s don't cross-post, post on another thread, etc. Stick to one so the Forum can focus on it.

Forester series - body parts are likely not swappable between series: SF (part of VIN): 1998-2002 - 'facelift' in 2001. Rear hatch and front-end parts changed. SG: 2003-2008 - 'facelift' in 2007. SH: 2009-20013 - Major body, interior, suspension, upgrades. SJ: 2014- See cars101.com for more info, specs, pics

See this: http://www.rs25.com/forums/f72/t202955-problem-setting-base-timing.html specifically this: - did you use the LINE (good) on the back or ARROW (bad) on the front?

I don't know where that goes..but not clear on why you can't follow it back to where the other end is?...Unless it goes INto a wiring harness? Also, I was thinking that if you did mess up your timing belt - by side-stepping the clutch - that would certainly cause a no-start. It could have jumped a tooth (or dozen), which would explain some of the codes. Newer (?) Subaru's w/5/6-speeds have a guard OVER the crank sprocket to avoid just this issue, IIRC. Good news is that the EJ22T is a NON-interference engine, so no damage to pistons or valves should've occurred.

+1 Attached 1990-1994 ECU codes. 16, Injector #3 17, Injector #4 22, Knock sensor 23, Air flow sensor 24, Air control valve 35, Canister purge solenoid valve 42, Idle switch 49, Air flow sensor I don't know which of these would cause a 'no start' or Why an attempt to ruin your trans* would also cause this issue, but I've seen/read about it numerous times that these cars also had bad Knock Sensors from the factory - cracked - and I'd replace yours as the first step, as it FREQUENTLY causes other codes. It is possible you had a bad/borderline KS before this and had a stored code. My only guess is that when you tried to kill your clutch* the shock may have loosened a Ground or other connection, as noted by GD above. I would try disconnecting the Neg. battery cable and letting it sit overnight to reset the ECU. REconnect and see if it'll start and/or what codes come back. *You will have a difficult time finding a replacement transmission for a '91-'94 SS.. You'll $pend a lot on either a rebuild or doing a swap w/something else.

If you either haven't done any prior Trans service or don't know When it was last done, I don't recommend any kind of a Trans Flush on older Subie 4/5EAT's.* The flush will use force/power and could cause grief w/the internal seals. This somewhat debated online and here, but after experiencing it fir$t hand - $900 later (cheap rebuild) - I won't ever do it again. The 3x Drain, Refill, Drive is OK. Most cars will do a 'relearn' after changing the ATF anyway...read your OM as it's likely described there. *Your '05 could have either the 4EAT or 5EAT w/Sport Shift- depends on trim level/engine. OM from '06 - should be same/similar to '05:

Hi First, please start a NEW thread (post) and don't add -on (even if it's related) - next time. This is called a 'hi-jack' and most all forums frown on it. 2nd - EJ222E: We'd need to know your budget, but assuming this is a 'budget build' I'd refresh the engine and keep it stock. You could buy some low CR forged pistons if you wanted to turbo it....but it's not a block built for high boost so you'd not want to push it too much. The rest of the internals on the EJ22e are already forged (just like the legendary EJ22T closed-deck block). A turbo'd EJ22e won't be worth (as) much if you do this as there's no direct Subaru that can be put back in.* And remember any turbo engine would require Engine Management - as in piggy-back, stand-alone, or whole swap (as in WRX) - to run it w/out blowing up. 3rd - 4EAT: The trans is likely about dead, and rebuilding it doesn't make sense - @ least to me - it'd never be worth what you'd have to spend. My .03 (inflation): I'd pull the engine, take the rest to a local salvage/wrecking/U-pull it and unload it, or you can open a Parts Sale ad Here on ebay and/or CL (flakes ) if you want to deal w/pulling and selling yourself. * You might find someone w/a '91-'94 Legacy SS or TW in need of a replacement 2.2....or even a EJ205 WRX owner that needs a shortblock.

BTW, you'll likely need to cut the bracket around the brake line.DO NOT bother w/removing the brake lines...you'll then you have to bleeeeeeed the brakes...PITA and totally unnecessary. Remove the clips, Get a hacksaw, cut a slit, bend the slits opposite and slide out the line - hold it out of the way while you're swapping and see above to Zip it back....No Prob.

In the same boat....RE: the same lack of info on '00+ stuff. Per cars101.com and the OM, there were both the 4-speed and 5-speed 'sportshift' models avl. that year. It looks like the 2.5i models got only the 4-speed? The XT(urbo) and 3.0's got the 5-speed...that right there is 'new(s) to me'..thought they all got the 5-speed for '05+. Perusing car-part.com does confirm only the '05 interchange....but there are a lot of them out there....is that a good thing or bad? :-0 Didn't check Ebait's offerings and interchange. If I could only find an '04 or '06, I'd try it - after comparing the wiring diagrams in an FSM and the AT wiring harnesses - ,and only if you got a good deal and have nothing better to do than swap transmissions. :-) Stay from any VDC version, too. Td

Why wouldn't they fit? What did the shop tell you?.Or just..find another shop... There should be P/N's on the strut portion, which will tell you what they are were 'sposed to fit. But if struts are USED it doesn't mean the top hats are matching, though. Yup - bolt-in. You'll need to get a long pry bar to lever down the control arm, etc to fit them in, and may want a helper. And, YES, it'll still align fine. If you do it yourself, read up on the front TOP strut bolt (where it attaches to knuckle). It's used for Camber adj....mark the bolt head before removal, put it back where you found it, and usually your alignment is really close (assuming it was good b4). .

Sorry to hi-jack the Thread. Thanks for the info. Kinda like this Audi engine?

double-post...dang newbs.

GD, If you care to share a Shop Secret, What are you looking for under the VCs? Thanks TD

No offense - really. But this turbo- addict doesn't care much for USED Subaru turbo'd engines. If you've got maintenance history from new, and knew how it was driven - maybe I'd take a chance.

+1 to all listed above. The #1 issue w/these, in my book, is how many modifcations (mods) have been done. Due to how (relatively) easy they are to mod, most have probably seen one or a hundred upgrades, and then it comes down to how well those mods were done. If the car is still mostly stock AND maintained, it'll keep going. That price is high for the miles but depends on the condition. But I would be wary of the transmission w/those miles, too. The 4EAT in these is extra tough, but not invincible, and if it fails you'll be VERY hard-pressed to find another. You can use a transmission from other Subarus but it won't be built for the turbo's extra power. EDIT: See below....requires the Rear Diff to be replaced, but a good option. Do NOT expect to buy this and take it to the dealer for turbo-parts related repair. They can do the timing belt, tune-ups, etc. but if a fuel injector or the BCS (boost control solenoid), etc. fails, you're SOL. As noted, many of the turbo-specific parts are not avl. but if you're comfortable w/customizing, go for it. Some of the WRX stuff can be used, and even the older WRX stuff can be bought from some of the Japan parts suppliers. The '92-'96 WRX/STi sold overseas was a close match. A good resource for the 1st Gen Legacy, incl. turbo models and used parts: http://bbs.legacycentral.org/index.php Also, if you get power-hungry check out http://www.robtune.com/.... although he's currently not shipping new products due to similar issues w/parts availability (as of 2/2017). Bottom-line...don't buy it if it 'needs work' and you've not worked on Subies in the past.

1&2> That '14 2.5 is an FB25 and is not an 'EJ' series engine. I highly doubt it.

Hi and Welcome, Sorry your 1st post here is for such an issue. :-( +1 to all the above. You'll very (very) likely need a new engine....and I don't like used Subaru engines - esp. Turbo'd versions....you (almost) never know how well they were (not) maintained. I'd add that the Baja model seems to be holding its value better than the similar year Legacy GT, Outback and Forester XT (turbo) models due to its rarity. And since you're near the Subaru center of the universe in the NW (Seattle>Portland), you 'might' get more for it as a project for someone else, but don't expect to fix it right and get your $$ back... If you can reuse your Baja's cylinder heads, that'll save a lot, and you'll 'just' need the short block and turbo + the extra items listed above. Otherwise, yeah, whole engine. :-( As stated above, your engine (2006) is the same as in the '06-'13(?) Forester XT, Outback XT, Legacy GT, and WRX - EJ255. So, you might find some other useful info on recommended local shops (including GD's) on NASIOC.com and related Subaru sites. You'll want a dedicated Subaru shop for this repair - not the dealer. GL, TD

+1 Did you adjust the valves per the FSM? Here's GD's info for the 2.5: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/117652-sohc-ej25-valve-adjustment/ Info for the 2.2 (may be the same) is in the Owner's Manual and/or under the hood, IIRC.

He bought it w/the 2.2 installed. Hopefully Hanna's is a complete 2.2 IM - harness, injectors, EGR, etc.

No EGR there......you want this:

ALL 19996 - 1999 Legacy 2.5's were the EJ25D, and had EGR. That ECU should end in the letter 'B' not # 8....should also be labeled # 84 - see attached.>>>it's a 1999 EJ25 ECU and should run ANY '95-'98 EJ22...but it's looking for EGR. If you don't have EGR on whatever you have in there, you MUST add it. Only way I've seen that works is to install a '95-'98 EJ22 IM - EJ25 DOHC won't fit - w/the EGR. You do NOT need to add the port to the head. DO THIS MOD. All EJ22 w/Automatics had EGR; some of the 5-speeds, AFAIK. If you DO have EGR then look into replacing the Backpressure Reducer (used is fine...Toyota's work too!) as it's easy and fixed my CEL when it failed. Or try cleaning the actual EGR valve. Also, there were differences in the vacuum lines due to the Charcoal Canister being moved to the back on the '98-ish Legacy Wagons (my '96 EJ22 Sedan was in back, too). Look on here for more info to confirm your setup.

x 3.

Subaru CVT's are better now.....from what I've read. Don't forget to read up on Foresters here, too: subaruforester.org