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Hi, I can't believe there wasn't a filter that a PO removed for whatever reason. I can believe some models came WITH the cabin filter compartment and some w/out, but to have it w/out a filter installed? That doesn't compute. Here's a DIY for replacing it. Anyway...your HVAC system should be happier now. :-)

This should include the harness (I'd hope), w/the change in sprockets, should have been plug and play....EGR on '03? Just need to plug the EGR hole in the driver's side head. The ECU's not looking for it, so won't miss it. Relearn is behind the scenes...meaning you won't get codes initially. Some systems (EGR, Purge) take a few drive cycles (ignition On>Off>On>etc) to verify, and throw a CEL if something's out of whack. I'm NOT the 'go to' on the '00+ stuff as much...so no quoting! :-)

Edit: do you mean the STRUT PERCH? That was lower in '90-'91. '92-'94 were higher allowing bigger tires, I believe. There was also a difference in the spring's shape - tapered - and top hat size. I don't recall which, but '90-'91 were the same as were '92-'94. LegacyCentral will also have this in a STICKY under their Suspension category.

^Both engines are MAP - not MAF - so ECU shouldn't matter.....IMHO>

'90-'94 Legacy and '92-'01 Impreza were the same on the REAR only. The fronts have been the same since '90-ish. You don't have to swap top hats on the rear. Just enlarge/drill another hole for fitment of the newer style. As noted above. The '00 Legacy/GT/OB went to the multi-link rear w/shocks - not struts. As did the 2009+ Forester. 2005+ STi changed to a different front strut*, so 2004 STi and the 2002-2007 WRX are compatible - struts front and rear, *top hat bolt patter is same but due to the 5x114.3 bolt pattern and not sure what else, the bottom strut mount won't work.

These are generic, not Subie-specific: P0500 Vehicle Speed Sensor Malfunction P0122 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit Low Input P1100 MAF Sensor Intermittent/ Check of all OBDII Systems Not Complete P1101 MAF Sensor Out Of Self Test Range./KOER Not Able To Complete KOER Aborted P0136 O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 2) P0131 O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 1 P0132 O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 1) P0325 Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 or Single Sensor) P0122 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit Low Input You're welcome :-) Reset and See what comes back as noted above. On older Subies if the KS was bad it'd cause all kinds of grief - and extraneous codes. Fix it (cheap) or swap from other engine (if connectors are compatible)...reset codes and see. Your '00 is MAP-based, so don't trust the MAF codes either. The 02 codes lead me to believe something is wrong w/your harness - did you disconnect them when you dropped the y-pipe to the heads or ?

You 'should' be getting either a CEL or the AT Temp light is flashing 16 times @ startup?? Both mean you have codes....and just because you HAD a code for the o2 sensor doesn't mean that's still the case....(#1 reason to NOT drive w/the CEL on). OBD2 scanner for the CEL and search on here for how to retrieve the TCU / TCM (trans computer) codes. I'd "guess" the dash/cluster is bad? Had to replace one on a '96 Brighton @ 180K. Easy enough to replace w/any '95-'98 Legacy (Brighton version don't have a TACH) - '99 was a transition year and they may not be compatible - and they had their own issues. GL, TD

+1 Vote for battery connectors> terminals. GL, Td

Hi, Not my forte, but found this RELATED POST online. GL, TD

1995 was the transistion year for Subies to OBD2. Those w/the EJ22 AND 4EAT were supposedly OBD2 compliant in the Impreza (I'm 99% sure the Legacy was), but none of those w/the EJ18. (tangent: Ej22 wasn't avl. w/a 5-speed in '95.) So there should be an OBD2 port by your left knee...might have a little flip cover on it? I'll let you Google that for pics...limited @ work. The fuel gauge issues are actually common for ALL Subies of that vintage. I'd look into a fuel filter, vacuum line issues, cam and/or crank sensor, etc., too.

I did this on a '96 Brighton wagon (rear window got busted)....I did NOT see any plug/connector. We had to disconnect everything from the rear hatch and then pull it out thru that access hole.where it goes through that ribbed section back to the main part of the car and vice versa to install. :-( If you DO find one - Kudos.

Similar to my step-son's '00 OB. ...he went thru two batteries b4 replacing the alternator>>>fixed.

HI, A full tune-up rules out a lot. Remember - NGK/OEM Subaru parts are recommended (required?)...not necessarily from the dealer, but don't buy the the local auto parts' bargain stuff. If you've let the valve tap for 'a couple of years', worst case is a burnt valve. CEL/Check engine light ever come on? If you've had one in the past, get it checked again for the current issue(s).

^From this Endwrench 2. 2 doc.

Interesting - older models had an FWD light come on when the fuse was in the FWD holder. See attached. Remove the fuse under the hood, and see what happens.....might want to verify you still have a driveline/drive shaft but I believe that's what helps keep the fluid in the center diff, so you'd have bigger issues w/out that. I'd also do a full ATF replace. Depending on miles and maintenance history - I don't recommend a FLUSH of the ATF - just drain and replace 3 times - with a short drive in between each refill.

No (good) idea w/out the code. I'd get a $20 OBD2 scanner @ Wally world or similar and take it w/you. You'll likely need for any car you you buy or WANT to buy. "after 10 minutes' could be the CTS (coolant temp sensor) being bad. Cheap but not the easiest to replace (compared to an air filter :-) ).

Hi, Sounds like you're in NZ, so you likely got the JDM Import stuff? The JDM versions sometimes were a model year ahead of the USA, so which engine do you have in there? Some markets even had carbs and throtle-body injection in the '90s (and not just on the Leone). As noted above, you can basically swap any of the '90-'98 EJ-series engines - provided the electronics/harness/etc match up. Also, I don't 'think' the OBD2 requirements, circa 1995-1996 in the USA, were enforced Down Under 'til maybe '00? Lancaster = Legacy Outback.

Hi and welcome, As this is a BRAND New car - '17 - then my 1st question is: How long do you plan on keeping it? If keeping it longer than the length of the warranty, then your questions are valid. If not, then Why worry? :-) Maintenance can be done @ any shop - BUT YOU MUST> MUST KEEP YOUR RECEIPTS in case a warranty repair crops up. As stated above, it's on THEM to prove the service was inadequate, but the 'fight' is usually a pain. Personally, I prefer to have my maintenance done @ THE DEALERSHIP during the warranty period so there's no question as to the maintenance record. Yes, you'll pay more, but most shops offer discounts, specials, coupons.. etc. that can reduce costs. Subarus have shown to be near the top of the reliability charts for autos. I don't have any specific data, but their increased growth - setting new records for sales every month/year - indicates they'll be around for awhile longer, which means parts will also be plentiful.....I've not read that the new models are any more to repair than other brands. Once the warranty ends, find a reputable Subie-specific shop (not necessarily a dealer) that you trust. Even if they're a few $$ more than the Backyard Joe Mechanic down the street -( EDIT: No offense to all of USmb that turn our own wrenches!), you'll usually get what you pay for. Last note...that maintenance record is like GOLD, IMHO. Keep it up to date, w/receipts and if you sell the car yourself it'll be a key selling point - @ least it is w/me. GL, TD

Hi, Nice VW... I'm not the diagnostician of others on here....my .02. I'd read this: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/87011-91-legacy-code-24-bypass-air-control-solenoid/ Note Endwrench is no longer 'online' but doc may be on this resource: jdmfsm . info / Auto/Japan/Subaru/--Articles--/--Endwrench--/ (remove spaces) IIRC, the '90-'91 5-speed/manual EJ22's had a specific IAC and ECU, if you decide to get another ECU. Also, if the timing belt tensioner is failing, it might allow the belt to skip a tooth? The tensioners can be reused and are not always replaced during a Tbelt job.

^good info right there. I would also recommend changing out your brake fluid, unless you know its age. If it's got any water - it could contribute to the temp. sensitive level.

Edit: Ignore the circled portion in the attached from an 2000 OB (showing the kid the O2 sensors). I believe the Fed version is the "Subaru Exhaust" and the NY version referred to by Ferret (next post) is the "OB Exh"? Many of the Subarus share that front Y-pipe / exhaust manifold/header section..so I'd guess the '00-'04 Legacy and Outback would work...depending on which version you have. Something to be aware of is the # of O2 sensors, as some models (?), versions (Fed vs Calif) use different setups. And if it's rusted those O2 sensors may need replaced.

And...No, the AT Temp should NOT flash - comes on w/key and go out after Start. If it flashes 16 times there IS a code. Find the link online to read 'em. Td

Likely wasn't the original turbo, but the newer styled flanged used in the '08+/'09+ WRX/FXT, which is compatible w/the LGT. I just cross-referenced the Legacy GT's turbos and they are all VF-series from '05 - VF40/VF46. Tangent: They also used a VF54 in the '10 model which is completely different - I believe that's when the put the turbo up front UNDER the engine. Sorry to get off topic.....just interesting to me:

Not what he posted....Please read the LINK I posted above to cars101.com. it'll detail each trim of the Legacy model. RE: turbo - I'd try to find a dedicated Subaru shop (not a dealer, either) for an inspection, as Subarus + turbos are not exactly rocket science, but need 'specialized' knowledge. If you're set on a turbo engine, I HIGHLY recommed getting a compression check and Leak down test done....Yes, Expensive - $250? - but ask how much an engine repair will run.

Yeah...I misread that...the non-turbo/NA LTD has the EJ25x engine that is known to blow Head Gaskets. If they've NOT been done, they will need done. They're likley leaking externally now - which doesn't mean they'll fail immediately but should be on the 'to do soon' list. Still overpriced. If the Maintenance/Service history includes the HG, and they're recently done it might be OK. But remember, when the HG start to go the car may overheat and if the PO (prev. owner) let it overheat badly or multiple times, the rod-end bearings on the crankshaft are doomed, which means a whole new engine, too. MANY Of the '90's EJ25 engines had their HG repaired only to have the engine blow-up. Granted this was due to an INTERNAL leak, but still a big deal if they overheated.