wtdash

Hi and Welcome, Sorry your 1st post here is for such an issue. :-( +1 to all the above. You'll very (very) likely need a new engine....and I don't like used Subaru engines - esp. Turbo'd versions....you (almost) never know how well they were (not) maintained. I'd add that the Baja model seems to be holding its value better than the similar year Legacy GT, Outback and Forester XT (turbo) models due to its rarity. And since you're near the Subaru center of the universe in the NW (Seattle>Portland), you 'might' get more for it as a project for someone else, but don't expect to fix it right and get your $$ back... If you can reuse your Baja's cylinder heads, that'll save a lot, and you'll 'just' need the short block and turbo + the extra items listed above. Otherwise, yeah, whole engine. :-( As stated above, your engine (2006) is the same as in the '06-'13(?) Forester XT, Outback XT, Legacy GT, and WRX - EJ255. So, you might find some other useful info on recommended local shops (including GD's) on NASIOC.com and related Subaru sites. You'll want a dedicated Subaru shop for this repair - not the dealer. GL, TD

+1 Did you adjust the valves per the FSM? Here's GD's info for the 2.5: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/117652-sohc-ej25-valve-adjustment/ Info for the 2.2 (may be the same) is in the Owner's Manual and/or under the hood, IIRC.

He bought it w/the 2.2 installed. Hopefully Hanna's is a complete 2.2 IM - harness, injectors, EGR, etc.

No EGR there......you want this:

ALL 19996 - 1999 Legacy 2.5's were the EJ25D, and had EGR. That ECU should end in the letter 'B' not # 8....should also be labeled # 84 - see attached.>>>it's a 1999 EJ25 ECU and should run ANY '95-'98 EJ22...but it's looking for EGR. If you don't have EGR on whatever you have in there, you MUST add it. Only way I've seen that works is to install a '95-'98 EJ22 IM - EJ25 DOHC won't fit - w/the EGR. You do NOT need to add the port to the head. DO THIS MOD. All EJ22 w/Automatics had EGR; some of the 5-speeds, AFAIK. If you DO have EGR then look into replacing the Backpressure Reducer (used is fine...Toyota's work too!) as it's easy and fixed my CEL when it failed. Or try cleaning the actual EGR valve. Also, there were differences in the vacuum lines due to the Charcoal Canister being moved to the back on the '98-ish Legacy Wagons (my '96 EJ22 Sedan was in back, too). Look on here for more info to confirm your setup.

x 3.

Subaru CVT's are better now.....from what I've read. Don't forget to read up on Foresters here, too: subaruforester.org

Which of the CTS are you replacing? There are likely two. one is a single blade connector for the gauge; the other has an actual plastic plug w/a clip for the ECU. Td

Hi, I can't believe there wasn't a filter that a PO removed for whatever reason. I can believe some models came WITH the cabin filter compartment and some w/out, but to have it w/out a filter installed? That doesn't compute. Here's a DIY for replacing it. Anyway...your HVAC system should be happier now. :-)

This should include the harness (I'd hope), w/the change in sprockets, should have been plug and play....EGR on '03? Just need to plug the EGR hole in the driver's side head. The ECU's not looking for it, so won't miss it. Relearn is behind the scenes...meaning you won't get codes initially. Some systems (EGR, Purge) take a few drive cycles (ignition On>Off>On>etc) to verify, and throw a CEL if something's out of whack. I'm NOT the 'go to' on the '00+ stuff as much...so no quoting! :-)

Edit: do you mean the STRUT PERCH? That was lower in '90-'91. '92-'94 were higher allowing bigger tires, I believe. There was also a difference in the spring's shape - tapered - and top hat size. I don't recall which, but '90-'91 were the same as were '92-'94. LegacyCentral will also have this in a STICKY under their Suspension category.

^Both engines are MAP - not MAF - so ECU shouldn't matter.....IMHO>

'90-'94 Legacy and '92-'01 Impreza were the same on the REAR only. The fronts have been the same since '90-ish. You don't have to swap top hats on the rear. Just enlarge/drill another hole for fitment of the newer style. As noted above. The '00 Legacy/GT/OB went to the multi-link rear w/shocks - not struts. As did the 2009+ Forester. 2005+ STi changed to a different front strut*, so 2004 STi and the 2002-2007 WRX are compatible - struts front and rear, *top hat bolt patter is same but due to the 5x114.3 bolt pattern and not sure what else, the bottom strut mount won't work.

These are generic, not Subie-specific: P0500 Vehicle Speed Sensor Malfunction P0122 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit Low Input P1100 MAF Sensor Intermittent/ Check of all OBDII Systems Not Complete P1101 MAF Sensor Out Of Self Test Range./KOER Not Able To Complete KOER Aborted P0136 O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 2) P0131 O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 1 P0132 O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 1) P0325 Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 or Single Sensor) P0122 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit Low Input You're welcome :-) Reset and See what comes back as noted above. On older Subies if the KS was bad it'd cause all kinds of grief - and extraneous codes. Fix it (cheap) or swap from other engine (if connectors are compatible)...reset codes and see. Your '00 is MAP-based, so don't trust the MAF codes either. The 02 codes lead me to believe something is wrong w/your harness - did you disconnect them when you dropped the y-pipe to the heads or ?

You 'should' be getting either a CEL or the AT Temp light is flashing 16 times @ startup?? Both mean you have codes....and just because you HAD a code for the o2 sensor doesn't mean that's still the case....(#1 reason to NOT drive w/the CEL on). OBD2 scanner for the CEL and search on here for how to retrieve the TCU / TCM (trans computer) codes. I'd "guess" the dash/cluster is bad? Had to replace one on a '96 Brighton @ 180K. Easy enough to replace w/any '95-'98 Legacy (Brighton version don't have a TACH) - '99 was a transition year and they may not be compatible - and they had their own issues. GL, TD

+1 Vote for battery connectors> terminals. GL, Td

Hi, Not my forte, but found this RELATED POST online. GL, TD

1995 was the transistion year for Subies to OBD2. Those w/the EJ22 AND 4EAT were supposedly OBD2 compliant in the Impreza (I'm 99% sure the Legacy was), but none of those w/the EJ18. (tangent: Ej22 wasn't avl. w/a 5-speed in '95.) So there should be an OBD2 port by your left knee...might have a little flip cover on it? I'll let you Google that for pics...limited @ work. The fuel gauge issues are actually common for ALL Subies of that vintage. I'd look into a fuel filter, vacuum line issues, cam and/or crank sensor, etc., too.

I did this on a '96 Brighton wagon (rear window got busted)....I did NOT see any plug/connector. We had to disconnect everything from the rear hatch and then pull it out thru that access hole.where it goes through that ribbed section back to the main part of the car and vice versa to install. :-( If you DO find one - Kudos.

Similar to my step-son's '00 OB. ...he went thru two batteries b4 replacing the alternator>>>fixed.

HI, A full tune-up rules out a lot. Remember - NGK/OEM Subaru parts are recommended (required?)...not necessarily from the dealer, but don't buy the the local auto parts' bargain stuff. If you've let the valve tap for 'a couple of years', worst case is a burnt valve. CEL/Check engine light ever come on? If you've had one in the past, get it checked again for the current issue(s).

^From this Endwrench 2. 2 doc.

Interesting - older models had an FWD light come on when the fuse was in the FWD holder. See attached. Remove the fuse under the hood, and see what happens.....might want to verify you still have a driveline/drive shaft but I believe that's what helps keep the fluid in the center diff, so you'd have bigger issues w/out that. I'd also do a full ATF replace. Depending on miles and maintenance history - I don't recommend a FLUSH of the ATF - just drain and replace 3 times - with a short drive in between each refill.

No (good) idea w/out the code. I'd get a $20 OBD2 scanner @ Wally world or similar and take it w/you. You'll likely need for any car you you buy or WANT to buy. "after 10 minutes' could be the CTS (coolant temp sensor) being bad. Cheap but not the easiest to replace (compared to an air filter :-) ).

Hi, Sounds like you're in NZ, so you likely got the JDM Import stuff? The JDM versions sometimes were a model year ahead of the USA, so which engine do you have in there? Some markets even had carbs and throtle-body injection in the '90s (and not just on the Leone). As noted above, you can basically swap any of the '90-'98 EJ-series engines - provided the electronics/harness/etc match up. Also, I don't 'think' the OBD2 requirements, circa 1995-1996 in the USA, were enforced Down Under 'til maybe '00? Lancaster = Legacy Outback.