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Your answer is above and I recommend to spend $1.50 and do a VIN check here: FREECHEAPVIN.COM. I've used it a lot over the last year while shopping. And this shows the cluster from the Owners Manual.

Dirt? Nah...just 'experienced' dust. :-)

Hi and Welcome to the USMB, That's the Shift Lock Release. It allows you to shift the transmission w/out putting in the key and pushing the brake. Ensure the PARKING BRAKE is SET before messing w/it...so you don't roll away.

When you installed that replacement TD04, did you replace the coolant lines? They get old and cracked like vacuum lines. Did you ensure the coolant copper crush washers were in good condition on BOTH sides of the banjo bolts? Many state to use new washers, but I've never had an issue reusing them (many times). The bubbling from the uppipe indicates a exhaust leak? Remember that the ICE process produces H2O.

Another subaru? :-) I'm not sure what sound a bad Turbo would make.....but it would surprise me if sounded like 'Knock'. The TD04 on these are not invincible so if the swap came out of 125K+ mile WRX, I'd replace it. And Rod Knock should be @ all RPMs??? TD

Hi and Welcome to the USMB, The 'L" has the EJ22/2.2 engine, not the EJ25D/2.5 which is the engine more prone to HG failure. Has your '96 Overheated, are there Bubbles in the coolant overflow tank? Have you looked UNDER the car for a coolant leak? Has it had any service work done recently? TD

Is the '09 Totalled/crashed/etc? Otherwise, fix the turbo, sell it and your '95 and buy a clean WRX. You'll be FAR ahead of doing a swap. Td

Hi, Welcome to the USMB. As noted above we need more info, but I'd HIGHLY recommend you spend some more time Searching, Reading, and Googling. RS25.com and NASIOC.com (they take no prisoners, so put on your big boy pants) probably have 2-2000 swaps detailing what you're doing. READ THE STICKIES @ the top of each forum - they are your new bible. :-) And remember, it'll likely cost twice as much and take four times as long to do the swap as you planned. GL, Td

Yes, I think the MAF spray should work...but I'd double-check online/other forums about the 'best way'. BTW, you're not 'just' experiencing turbo lag when the turbo kicks in (or doesn't), correct? The engine actually kinda slows, says 'hold on a minute', has a little 'fit' and then it starts to go? Turbo lag is more like you push the throttle and nothing happens for a few seconds (depending on RPM and what gear you're in), and then you get the kick in the backside and GLH (go like heck). It's worse if you're driving an Automatic-equipped turbocharged Subie....been there, regretted that. And the car's state of tune is up to date? Plugs, wires, fuel/air filter, etc. are all good? You might go look on ozfoz.com for more feedback. Td P.s. I drove one time for just a couple of miles when in Sydney back in '07 (my wife is from Brisbane), and it was interesting...esp. w/a round-a-bout.

Per Legacy777 on LegacyCentral: Also try http://www.toplineauto.com/ And this USMB post has a similar/same catalog as Fairtax: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/137112-ej22t-piston-rings/

$300 is probably worth it - any maintenance history? Ever Overheated? Use a '95-'98 IM from another EJ22 and this here Non-EGR mod (if it has EGR) and you can drop it into any '95-'98 Legacy, any '96-'99 GT or OB, '98 Forester or '95-'98 Impreza w/the 2.2 or 2.5 (RS). IF AWD, Grab a 12mm open-end wrench for the 4 bolts on the rear pinion flange, a screwdriver to wedge in to hold it in place and disconnect the tail-end of driveshaft. Then you/they can tow it on a dolly w/the front wheels up. td

Hi, On the turbo cars esp., vacuum leaks are NOT your friend. I'd start w/whatever way you may have to check for leaks. I'd be supsect of the Turbo inlet hose (where it connects to the turbo) and whatever else may be sucking in unwanted air. Also, the COP (coil on plugs) from the older EJ20x's were not known for longevity - may be more the real early EJ20G engines though??. They can cause issues. You can Google for 'How To' test those. Edit::::Or does this have a Coil Pack?? And just to verify...the Check Engine Light (same Down Under?) Does illuminate when you turn the key ON>>Engine OFF, correct? GL, TD P.s.How's the RH driving going? Much adjustment?

A little 'clicky' could be lots of things....and not necessarily '...just how the engine sounds...'. What year? Miles? - "higher miles" depends on whom you ask. Maintenance history? HLA on valves could be a possibility. Injectors can make some noise. Is it RPM dependent?

Just to reiterate - stay away from the 2.5 engine on the '96+ legacy...unless you can confirm 100% that it NEVER overheated AND the Head Gaskets (HG) were done. Being in CO, if you ever drive in those 'hills' 'round there 'bouts, you may be underwhelmed w/the 2.2's performance. A manual/5-speed will help w/that a bit, but there's no easy/cheap way to get your 'boost' back. :-) GL, TD Tangent> I had a 55hp '80 Ford Fiesta I drove around CO, ski bumming in the mid-80's. I'd like to say I learned Patience from that....but not so much. :-)

I'm headed out..but Push vs. Pull (FW/PP/Disk must match), and speedo install may be issues...but manageable. Td

HI, On all my USA model seat swaps I've always moved the seat belt connectors from the old seats to the 'new' seats. Some required minor modification, but they always worked. But I've never dealt w/the JDM seats, and being RH drive may make them incompatible? Td

Hi and welcome, Try this: http://legacycentral.org/library/literature/timing/1.htm Sounds like you've got your alignment marks....not aligned. TD

Tirerack.com usually has reviews. Look up your tire size and look @ the recommended tires' ratings.

NASIOC.com if you get no responses.

Hi, It'll work, but different FD ratios for 4EATs. '92-'94 Legacy (incl. Turbo) = 3.9; '95-'98 Legacy L/Brighton 4.11; '96-'98 Legacy GT/LSi/OB = 4.44. '99 is Phase II/2 4EAT = stay away. You must match the rear diff. User your '92 TCM/TCU. '96 speedo cable is electronic, but just swap in the '92...same connector. SEARCH on here to confirm...but I've read more than once that'll work.

My info states lower CR and the pistons may be stronger- esp. the '90-'96 versions. But you don't get the better oil flow of the PII. And there are a lot more of the PI out there to 'play with'.

You pulled the dash console (speedo/Tach) and replaced those bulbs, correct? And all the plugs on the back are plugged in? If so, I don't know why they wouldn't work, but you may want to find another console to @ least test it. Any '95-'98 Legacy shouls work, but you may want to stick w/the '96-'98 OB or GT models for best compatibility w/the 2.5 engine and such.

Well....I'm not the 'diagnostic expert' on here, so others will likely have other ideas. Miles? Might want to get a Code scanner (CANBUS compatible) to see if there are any stored codes? "not wanting to start" = Turns over/cranks? Or just 'makes some noise'? Next: - MAF sensor - based on what I see online, yours has one- it's next to the air filter on top of the intake tube. On older Subies it was a somewhat common failure point...but yours should have a code. - Fuel pump - not sure about this on newer - 2005+ - models. And Fuel filter, but that may be in the tank too... - cam and crank sensors? - ??

HI and Welcome, If the dealer didn't test the Alternator, don't go back there. That would be my next guess. They're 'usually' easy enough to test and you can likely replace it yourself. But does the CEL/MIL light ever come on while she's driving? GL, TD

Correct.