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Read this to see wheel/tire info for '06: http://www.cars101.com/subaru/outback/outback2006.html#mechanicals - Steel: heavy, surface rust, $ - Alloy: lighter, potential corrosion on bead, $$+ - Two sets of lug nuts may be required. I have chrome acorn (?) nuts for my WRX summer wheels; basic lug nuts for winter that Subaru used on their steel wheeled cars from the '90s. Same for my '07 RAV4. The alloys' lug nuts don't work w/the steelies. - I also recommend a set of wheel covers. They may help keep the steelies cleaner?? I've used both and all the above is true (except for the bolt pattern, which IS corrected by Numchux), but unless you're prone to curb abuse, the steelies are tough enough. But as you're in the land of salt, rust may be more of a concern. I've read that the skinner tire helps 'concentrate' the tread grip, depending on road conditions? But it may depend more on tread pattern, air pressure, etc? >>>>Googling now....LOOKS LIKE I've got some reading to do!

Hi, You have car insurance? Call them, tell them what happened and see what they suggest. But you may NOT want to make a claim for a minor issue and depending on your deductible, you may be better off following 'Lucky T'" suggestion above if it's an easy fix. You can use the Better Business Bureau and maybe even Social Media to find a reputable shop in your 'hood. I highly suggest you start scouting out your local area Subaru mechanics - doesn't have to be a dealer - for future maintenance concerns. Subarus aren't hard or expensive to work on, but a dedicated Subaru tech is always preferred. GL, TD

There is a TZ- code on the bellhousing of Subaru Trans. If those match then the Seller shouldn't have an issue. They may not match, but it should stil work. Other than you agreeing to buy it 'as is' - which I wouldn't do - I don't have any other ideas?? What is the original condition of the donor car? Crashed, etc.? And make sure it comes w/the Torque Converter - in case yours is bad?. Td

I believe people use the Scangauge product to see 'real time' engine parameters...assuming this is running the stock '98 EJ22 ECU as well.

Larry, Please explain What was different about the '06 top hats? The '03-'08 should all be the same - other than the XT (turbo) having different ground clearance- which could just be different springs?? I did see this that '06 had more ground clearance: http://www.cars101.com/subaru/forester/forester2006.html#specs thanks

'case connector' is not a familiar term, but I've found that many of Subaru's transmission pans start to leak over time. I've had some success just snugging up the 10mm bolts/screws that attach the pan to the trans. There a bunch of them. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN them>>merely snug them up if loose. there's probably a torque rating on here/online somewhere.>>>try this: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/117134-trans-pan-bolt-torque/ Td

Hi, Welcome to the USMB. I'd suggest seeing what the Owner's Manual states. You can download it from Subaru's site (@ least in sections) or from HERE. I am confused about your comment about the 'switch'. Is it an ON/OFF that stays "depressed" or is it like Subaru's old Cruise buttons which you pushed to turn it ON but the switch didn't actually stay depressed and the cruise would reset when car was turned off ( or the button was pushed again). GL, Td

Hi, He's in UT. This is covered on here many times so double-check, but the '95-'98 Legacy and Impreza used the same 4EAT w/a 4.11 FD ratio. you can also use the '96-'98 4EAT Legacy OB/GT, Impreza RS and Forester IF YOU CHANGE THE REAR diff to match their 4.44 ratio. And the '90-'91 Legacy used the same 4.11 ratio 4EAT. The '92-'94 could be used IF YOU CHANGE the diff to match their 3.90. So, if the car is worth it, there are multiple options. 5-speed swap has also been done many times but has many things to consider = Search on here and Online. FWD 4EAT would work but their are some gotchas and Why give up AWD? Look Car-part.com and ebay. I'd be wary of any AT trans that have been sitting on the shelf for more than a year as the seals may have dried up. TD

Your answer is above and I recommend to spend $1.50 and do a VIN check here: FREECHEAPVIN.COM. I've used it a lot over the last year while shopping. And this shows the cluster from the Owners Manual.

Dirt? Nah...just 'experienced' dust. :-)

Hi and Welcome to the USMB, That's the Shift Lock Release. It allows you to shift the transmission w/out putting in the key and pushing the brake. Ensure the PARKING BRAKE is SET before messing w/it...so you don't roll away.

When you installed that replacement TD04, did you replace the coolant lines? They get old and cracked like vacuum lines. Did you ensure the coolant copper crush washers were in good condition on BOTH sides of the banjo bolts? Many state to use new washers, but I've never had an issue reusing them (many times). The bubbling from the uppipe indicates a exhaust leak? Remember that the ICE process produces H2O.

Another subaru? :-) I'm not sure what sound a bad Turbo would make.....but it would surprise me if sounded like 'Knock'. The TD04 on these are not invincible so if the swap came out of 125K+ mile WRX, I'd replace it. And Rod Knock should be @ all RPMs??? TD

Hi and Welcome to the USMB, The 'L" has the EJ22/2.2 engine, not the EJ25D/2.5 which is the engine more prone to HG failure. Has your '96 Overheated, are there Bubbles in the coolant overflow tank? Have you looked UNDER the car for a coolant leak? Has it had any service work done recently? TD

Is the '09 Totalled/crashed/etc? Otherwise, fix the turbo, sell it and your '95 and buy a clean WRX. You'll be FAR ahead of doing a swap. Td

Hi, Welcome to the USMB. As noted above we need more info, but I'd HIGHLY recommend you spend some more time Searching, Reading, and Googling. RS25.com and NASIOC.com (they take no prisoners, so put on your big boy pants) probably have 2-2000 swaps detailing what you're doing. READ THE STICKIES @ the top of each forum - they are your new bible. :-) And remember, it'll likely cost twice as much and take four times as long to do the swap as you planned. GL, Td

Yes, I think the MAF spray should work...but I'd double-check online/other forums about the 'best way'. BTW, you're not 'just' experiencing turbo lag when the turbo kicks in (or doesn't), correct? The engine actually kinda slows, says 'hold on a minute', has a little 'fit' and then it starts to go? Turbo lag is more like you push the throttle and nothing happens for a few seconds (depending on RPM and what gear you're in), and then you get the kick in the backside and GLH (go like heck). It's worse if you're driving an Automatic-equipped turbocharged Subie....been there, regretted that. And the car's state of tune is up to date? Plugs, wires, fuel/air filter, etc. are all good? You might go look on ozfoz.com for more feedback. Td P.s. I drove one time for just a couple of miles when in Sydney back in '07 (my wife is from Brisbane), and it was interesting...esp. w/a round-a-bout.

Per Legacy777 on LegacyCentral: Also try http://www.toplineauto.com/ And this USMB post has a similar/same catalog as Fairtax: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/137112-ej22t-piston-rings/

$300 is probably worth it - any maintenance history? Ever Overheated? Use a '95-'98 IM from another EJ22 and this here Non-EGR mod (if it has EGR) and you can drop it into any '95-'98 Legacy, any '96-'99 GT or OB, '98 Forester or '95-'98 Impreza w/the 2.2 or 2.5 (RS). IF AWD, Grab a 12mm open-end wrench for the 4 bolts on the rear pinion flange, a screwdriver to wedge in to hold it in place and disconnect the tail-end of driveshaft. Then you/they can tow it on a dolly w/the front wheels up. td

Hi, On the turbo cars esp., vacuum leaks are NOT your friend. I'd start w/whatever way you may have to check for leaks. I'd be supsect of the Turbo inlet hose (where it connects to the turbo) and whatever else may be sucking in unwanted air. Also, the COP (coil on plugs) from the older EJ20x's were not known for longevity - may be more the real early EJ20G engines though??. They can cause issues. You can Google for 'How To' test those. Edit::::Or does this have a Coil Pack?? And just to verify...the Check Engine Light (same Down Under?) Does illuminate when you turn the key ON>>Engine OFF, correct? GL, TD P.s.How's the RH driving going? Much adjustment?

A little 'clicky' could be lots of things....and not necessarily '...just how the engine sounds...'. What year? Miles? - "higher miles" depends on whom you ask. Maintenance history? HLA on valves could be a possibility. Injectors can make some noise. Is it RPM dependent?

Just to reiterate - stay away from the 2.5 engine on the '96+ legacy...unless you can confirm 100% that it NEVER overheated AND the Head Gaskets (HG) were done. Being in CO, if you ever drive in those 'hills' 'round there 'bouts, you may be underwhelmed w/the 2.2's performance. A manual/5-speed will help w/that a bit, but there's no easy/cheap way to get your 'boost' back. :-) GL, TD Tangent> I had a 55hp '80 Ford Fiesta I drove around CO, ski bumming in the mid-80's. I'd like to say I learned Patience from that....but not so much. :-)

I'm headed out..but Push vs. Pull (FW/PP/Disk must match), and speedo install may be issues...but manageable. Td

HI, On all my USA model seat swaps I've always moved the seat belt connectors from the old seats to the 'new' seats. Some required minor modification, but they always worked. But I've never dealt w/the JDM seats, and being RH drive may make them incompatible? Td

Hi and welcome, Try this: http://legacycentral.org/library/literature/timing/1.htm Sounds like you've got your alignment marks....not aligned. TD