wtdash

Tirerack.com usually has reviews. Look up your tire size and look @ the recommended tires' ratings.

NASIOC.com if you get no responses.

Hi, It'll work, but different FD ratios for 4EATs. '92-'94 Legacy (incl. Turbo) = 3.9; '95-'98 Legacy L/Brighton 4.11; '96-'98 Legacy GT/LSi/OB = 4.44. '99 is Phase II/2 4EAT = stay away. You must match the rear diff. User your '92 TCM/TCU. '96 speedo cable is electronic, but just swap in the '92...same connector. SEARCH on here to confirm...but I've read more than once that'll work.

My info states lower CR and the pistons may be stronger- esp. the '90-'96 versions. But you don't get the better oil flow of the PII. And there are a lot more of the PI out there to 'play with'.

You pulled the dash console (speedo/Tach) and replaced those bulbs, correct? And all the plugs on the back are plugged in? If so, I don't know why they wouldn't work, but you may want to find another console to @ least test it. Any '95-'98 Legacy shouls work, but you may want to stick w/the '96-'98 OB or GT models for best compatibility w/the 2.5 engine and such.

Well....I'm not the 'diagnostic expert' on here, so others will likely have other ideas. Miles? Might want to get a Code scanner (CANBUS compatible) to see if there are any stored codes? "not wanting to start" = Turns over/cranks? Or just 'makes some noise'? Next: - MAF sensor - based on what I see online, yours has one- it's next to the air filter on top of the intake tube. On older Subies it was a somewhat common failure point...but yours should have a code. - Fuel pump - not sure about this on newer - 2005+ - models. And Fuel filter, but that may be in the tank too... - cam and crank sensors? - ??

HI and Welcome, If the dealer didn't test the Alternator, don't go back there. That would be my next guess. They're 'usually' easy enough to test and you can likely replace it yourself. But does the CEL/MIL light ever come on while she's driving? GL, TD

Correct.

Hi, Since $ is not an 'object' and you're much more knowledgeable about engine internals than I, this is probably not your 1st choice, but putting your 205 heads on a '90-'98 Phase 1 EJ22e has been done w/a fair amount of success, too. If you're not allergic to NASIOC there are threads/posts about its good/bad qualities. I'd also suggest replacing the TD04...not for more power but before it decides to contribute extra metal to your engine. There are still a few low mileage ones from an '04-'08 Forester, BAJA, in addition to your WRX, on ebay, NASIOC, etc. GL, TD p.s. and the off-boost torque was even worse w/the 4EAT I had on my '02 WRX EVEN WITH the IPT TC and VB upgrades. :-(

So, no offense to Matt, but I've removed my steering wheel multiple times on many different Subies to straighten it, and never had any issues. Granted, this was probably less than a 1/4 turn.........Is there a 'point of no return' if you overdo it?

Pun intended? :-)

Miles? I'd do a Compresssion and Leak Down test. on ol' #4. TD

The stock air intake on a Subaru is a CAI, and most mods just move the power band UP, but doesn't make noticeable power. If he wants some noise, look up doing the 'snorkus delete'. No chips or other easy ECU/ECM upgrades for the '95-'99+ models. And the WRX engine only makes more power due to the turbo which requires a lot of wiring, time and $$ to make it work in a '96. Unless this kid has raced go karts, e.g.every F1 driver, handling and braking upgrades are more important to a new(er) driver than power. Maybe he needs a new hobby that uses up some of that energy..that doesn't involve cars? :-)

Just a 'heads up', Phase II/2 '99+ 2.5 aren't a plugNplay in the '90-'98 stuff....covered on here and I thought on LC BBS. too.? :-) Otherwise, this IS a good route to go. The 1st Gen Imprezas are a lot of fun, even in stock form.

Hi, Rattling noise? Or thumps, clunks, etc? Rattling could be heat shields, exhaust or that plastic cover that is under the engine on some Subies? Td

Doesn't the DEFROST use the AC to do something? I know it runs when my Defrost button is on.

+1 And not being condescending, just take it or leave it : Anything above 60 decreases MPG (except a good tail wind or downhill). Math/physics for the day: "drag should be proportional to the square of speed" FuelEconomy.gov states 25 Auto/26 5-speed on the highway, but 27-28 should be doable. Roof-top carrier? They're not so good for MPG either.

Hi, There are a couple other posts on this same topic posted recently (you should all form a group! :-) ), they may have more info. I'd think you'd need the ECU to match the trans - @ least. Also, seems to me I read that some Subies around year 2000 started using trans-specific ABS units which would make this even tougher. Going from 5-speed to Auto is much harder, due to the extra 'stuff', electronics-wise, IMHO. If you and your friend are mech Wiz, then maybe no issue. i'd go search on RS25.com and NASIOC.com as the Impreza bunch like to do this stuff more often, and 99% of the info is transferable - year to year. GL, Td

HI, I don't have any experience w/the 2000+ EGR systems and IAC and converting to NON-EGR. The main idea is to find an intake hose that is NOT a breather hose coming off the heads or PCV hose coming off the block. It'll suck in the oil fumes and you'll be known as the 'blue bomber' in your 'hood.....Yes, matter of fact I DID do that. :-) It does sound like your referring to fuel lines or possibly vacuum lines. I would 'think' you could put a hole in the intake - after the air filter - put in one of those plastic hose barbs w/a rubber grommet sized to fit the hole, and run a line to the EGR hard line that normally goes to the head???? Make sense? Or if there's another port on the intake, just "T" off of it. GL, TD

Hi, If you head on over to NASIOC.com, you'll found lots of 'valve cover' posts as it's dedicated to the Impreza/WRX/ STi. HERE's ONE. The valve cover is AKA 'rocker cover' in Subaru lingo. GL, Td

Hi, I might not be following what you mean by 'gusset', but there are 4 screws that hold on the mirror assembly....one is almost under the door card...easier to probably remove it to gain access, but been awhile since I've done one. Should all be bronze colored Phillips head screws. i can't search images @ work but Google it for pics. LINK1 GL, TD

Hi, Yes...more the better. It doesn't need to be expensive ATF either....the Walmart DEXIII compatible works OK, IMHO. And if you notice an improvement you can go back and do the 'drain/refill/drive/repeat x 3' routine w/better stuff. In addition, ensure you MANUALLY SHIFT thru all the gears when driving it..including Reverse (if not obvious). And it's noted in the Owner's Manual, too, that after an ATF change the trans has to 'recalibrate/relearn/something' for the new fluid, so give it a few drive cycles AFTER you've done the drain/refill/drives to shift normally. And from my personal experience, Do NOT power flush a higher mileage Subaru trans....it may actually cause the trans' internal seals to leak, which will result in a dead trans....Just do the drain/refills. If you do have leaks around the pan, grab a 10mm wrench and LIGHTLY snug up the multiple bolts that hold it on....it helped mine. TD

Hi, Actually, I'd be concerned about the rod bearings. They wear out when OH and if you're 'lucky' you'll get rod knock warning you it's 'End of Life' time, rather than a rod that decides to break free and bust thru the block...real bad. If your options include a used 2.2 vs. 2.5, the 200K isn't as scary, but buying another EJ25D w/those miles is more of a gamble. But in either case, i wouldn't install anything w/out doing new HG's anyway.......cheap(er) insurance. GL, TD

Hi, Fix the Check Engine Light/CEL, as you're Cruise won't work 'til then. The ECU (computer) has a limp-mode/fail-safe option so you can't use the Cruise when the CEL is on, and the Cruise light blinks to let you know there's an issue. Fix/replace the 02 sensor code and you're back in business. Td

Hi, Yes.....smaller, is probably correct. I know I did the 'ghetto' fix on my '90 Wagon when I installed '97 OB struts. I just enlarged/moved the rear bolt holes to accomodate the OB's bolt pattern....FWIW, I suggest Only messing w/the two outer bolt holes as it's a tight fight up in there and if you move the inner-most bolt hole the strut/spring will likely rub the body.