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/Possible tangent, but throwing it out there: I have '96 Legacy 2.2 L SEDAN that has the Charcoal Canister (CC) in the REAR, underneath on the passenger side; not under the hood in the front passenger side. A '96 Outback 2.5 ECU would NOT work as the CC is in the front and caused a purge valve CEL; a '99 EJ25D ECU didn't work and caused multiple CEL's - as noted above it's looking for '99 TCU/TCM, too. I ended up using a '98 EJ25D GT/OB ECU as it has the CC in the rear and matches my '96 config. (Running an EJ25D ECU for more fuel (i hope) for my turbo.) This may be unique to the '96 EJ22 Sedan version, but may want to make sure yours matches if you choose to go to a different year. /End Tangent

Usually?? It's suggested to replace pads w/rotors so they 'wear (bed-in) together', but I've done it both ways and seems to work fine. I'd still bed-in the new rotors w/the old pads if you do that. To add to the above. - The rotors are not bolted on directly (NO offense, Rooster), they're held on by the wheels+lug bolts, but they do get 'sticky' so follow the above. - This is for '90-2004 Subies (I've not worked on anything newer). - The calipers should be supported by some wire, rope, etc. so there's no strain on the brake lines. - Remove the cap, or @ least loosen it (to keep out water, etc) on the Brake Master Cylinder as you'll need to compress the calipers' pistons to make room for the new, thicker parts, which pushes the fluid back in the MC - this applies to both rotors only and rotors+pads. Make sure it's not already full. - You do NOT need to bleed the brakes as you're not disconnecting the brake lines, but if you don't know the age of your brake fluid now's a good time to bleed them - If you have a helper. Bleed: RF, LR, LF, RR (Not like most cars). But since you live in the Land of Rust (PA), you may not want to even touch those bleed screws if they're rusty. GL, td

Scroll down to Section 4-1 HERE to see the FSM for the Pneumatic suspension.

"dropping the tank" may not be on your 'to do' list either. IIRC, it's not just a strap to release it. More like the whole rear suspension/drive shaft/rear diff? Recommend more searching on that, too. Acces to both is on top right behind the rear seats - pull up the carpet pads. Td

Hi, You see THIS? I'd see if it'd work on your newer model. Saves a lot of work.

Hi, Common enough issue in the '90s Legacy that you'll find more posts on here/online. There are two floats - left and right - that determine how the gauge displays, and they wear out/get corroded on their sensor. You'll want to do more online searching to determine which one is most likely causing the issue. I have read about using different types of fuel additives (?) that may help w/this, and I personally have noticed mine works better since I changed to a Top Tier fuel (Costco), but it still shows prematurely low. GL, TD

Hi, There's more info on this system on the Legacy Central website as well, http://bbs.legacycentral.org/, but essentially the bladders (?) don't hold air. If you CAN even buy parts they're $$x$$, so plan on just replacing it w/stock suspension. If you need a lift, there are multiple posts online on LIFTing the 1st Gen ('90-'94) to match the '96-'99 Outback. GL, Td

Cars101.com is good resource: http://www.cars101.com/subaru/forester/forester2014.html#specs 2014 was the first year for the 2.0XT, so not going to have the history of the 2.5, although it's still a youngun' compared to the EJ-series it replaced. I know the NA 2.5 is one of CR's top-rated SUV's for MPG: CR Overall 26 mpg City 18 / Hwy 35 mpg The XT's CVT gets 23 City/28 Hwy/25 Overall from Cars101.com, (which sounds a bit optimistic?). C/D got 22 overall. Same engine is used in the 2015+ WRX, so may be worth a stroll thru the NASIOC.com website.

Interesting...not here to argue, but that's not 'factory'. May be someone swapped it? Or a unicorn. :-)

Assuming you keep the stock Impreza tires, the 4.44 will improve your performance. Your RPM will be higher @ the same MPH you had w/the 4.11. MPG may drop 1-2 MPG....but I've read it may not, too. Note your speedo will be OFF as the Legacy OB trans speedo gear is setup for taller tires. And there is no LSD on any US-spec Legacy/OB/Impreza/Forester from '92-'00....so check the year from that local yard's collection.

my .03 (inflation): Since you're buying NEW, I'd ensure you test drive them both as the Crosstrek's 2.0 will be 'less enthusiastic' power-wise than the Forester's 2.5. Your EB-equipped F150 will feel like a dragster compared to either, regardless. The current version of the CVT is actually better, if my online browsing is accurate. They use one in the WRX and I've read good things about it in that application, too. And 3 Fords w/no issues? Lucky owner. GL, TD

STi 6-speed swap! :-) But you may want to look into getting an '04-'05 WRX trans - if yours is the '02-'03. Finding one that hasn't been 'beat on' may be tougher than finding a EJ25D w/out HG issues. :-( Td

No Offense, but the LSD didn't arrive in the Forester S (and possiby the Impreza RS) 'til '00, from what I've read. No USA Subaru, except for the SVX had an LSD from '92-'99, AFAIK - including the Legacy GT and OB. The '91 Legacy Sport Sedan - Turbo- (4EAT and 5-speed) was the only year w/the rear 3.90 VLSD. Here's another LIST on NASIOC.

and if the car has no body damage in the JY, it probably does have mechanical woes.....keep looking.

Didn't note your version of the Legacy? Any 4EAT EJ25 from '96-'98 are 4.44; EJ22 w/4EAT are all 4.11. This applies to all Legacy, Forester and Impreza. These will all interchange w/your '96. '99+ are the phase 2 4EAT....no go.

The #1 thing we need to know - I believe - is this a 5-speed or Automatic? 5-speed can be flat towed all 4 wheels on the ground; Autos must either be towed on a flat bed truck - all 4 wheels on bed OR you can remove the 4 12mm bolts (wrench size) @ the rear diff/drive shatft connection and tow w/the front wheels on a tow dolly dragging the rear wheels. Read your Owner's Manual to be sure.

check your CV axles. If they are completely broken - inside the rubber boot - not in the diff - they will spin on the TRANS side but not the wheel/hub end. Only takes one broken CV to stop the car - due to the open diffs. Albeit, when this happend on my '96 Legacy it would still @ least move. GL, TD

I was just going to suggest the '96 EJ25D version...no go either? But I've read that those early Legacy EJ20G's were....unique. There may (not) be some useful info from this Thread on the LC BBs. I 2nd the partsouq.com resource...but you'll need a part number, AFAIK.

Ok...I'm assuming your 'blown engine' in the '99 is rod bearings? If the HEADS are salvageable you can put those on the '01 EJ22 and make a 'reverse franken(stein) motor' hybrid.* It'd be lower compression than either engine was originally but would only cost you a head gasket (mostly) to make it work. *Some take a 2.5 short block from a '96+ Subaru and put the 2.2 heads on it to make a high-compression torquey engine...referred to as a 'franken build' by some. GL, TD

Hi, I'd go see what others have done on NASIOC.com...not 'shooing' you away, just more Impreza/WRX/STi stuff over there. My .03 is you might need camber bolts on the rear...but I doubt it if you have coilovers specific to the car...they should've included any parts if needed to make it fit/align properly. GL, TD

+1 Or looked UP @ the linkage from underneath? GL, Td

Michelin Latitude on our RAV4; Michelin Defender on my Subaru Legacy. Both sets work well for my 99% on road adventures. I do use studded snows in the winter on both cars due the frequent freeze/thaw cycles we get in the winter leading to icy roads. But both of these were highly rated by CR. GL, TD

Hi and welcome, Should be PnP. Take it back or see the dealer. Also, you can get more info on the dedicated Impreza/WRX/STi site: NASIOC.com. GL, Td

Hi, I don't know your used car parts avl. in AK, but as noted by me, on here, and numerous posts on other subie sites, the EJ22 is generally the easiest and cheapest.....really. If you're hauling/towing/high elevation a lot you'll notice the loss of power, but w/a 5-speed you can shift around it. Down here the EJ22 is $700 or less....usually. BUT I don't know diddly about rebuilding a Subie engine, so your mileage may vary (YMMV). GL, TD

Awesome update and results. Good job!