wtdash

Hi, That depends on your commitment to the project, space to work on it (and a warm garage, esp. if Eastern WA) and avl. time. :-) There are still a lot '95-'99 Legacys on the road, but they're getting their miles on. So, you could probably pick up one that's worn but not trashed for $1K, and swap your good parts over. Have Fun, Td

Hi, Yeah...the '90-'94 Legacy and and '93-'01 Impreza REAR top hat /strut top bolt patterns are the same (although the spring perches are lower, and springs are therefore different on '90-'91 Legacy, I believe). GL, Td

1. Is the AT light blinking 16 times @ startup? Yes? There's a code stored in the TCU - trans computer. Search on here. 2. Check your ATF level. The difference between L and F on the dipstick is about 1/2 Qt, so doesn't take much. 3. Is the CEL light on? Check the Codes. Search on here. 4. Trans may be dead....it's acting like the ones I've had/seen that failed. 5. Due the "3 Drain ATF/Refill/Drive thru all gears" cycle. May get lucky. GL, TD

Hi, Do the 60K service. Preferably @ a Subie shop - indie is OK vs. dealer$hip. Also, if you didn't get a CARFAX from the dealer (not an Autocheck), order one up as it MAY show the car's service history. FWIW, Most Subarus sold in the US are built in the US, AFAIK. GL, TD

Hi and Welcome, Not the expert, but there's a AT Shift Lock sensor under the dash that that requires the brake pedal to be depressed to shift and is somehow connected to the ignition - it could be broken, but that's (really) rare. Disconnecting the NEGative battery terminal may reset it...but not sure. Also, you could try accessing the shift lock override button under the cover console for the AT shifter - it's shown in the Owner's Manaul, IIRC. It may be 'hung up' causing similar issues. GL, Td

What is this 'fan crack pop' of which you speak? I'm confused too. You're actually pulling the timing covers off, and doing what amounts to a timing belt job each time b4 you start it again? Since the XT is the DOHC engine, it's a PITA to do the t-belt so this must be getting old.... And pull the codes from the ECU....I'd imagine there's 1 or 10 stored. Let us know... Td

HI, I was always under the impression that on Subarus prior to 2004-ish, if the OIL light comes on, it's too late?? It's not there to tell you to add oil, but that it's OUT OF OIL. Overheating = head gaskets. Low oil and knocking = rod bearing failue. These two are usually connected, @ least on the 2.5 engine. That's my 'devil's advocate' opinion. GL, TD

Will the 2000-2004 Outback FRONT struts work on the '96-'99 Legacy Outback, too? I know the rears will not due to the change to multi-link w/shocks and springs...from Mac struts. HIt me w/the Search stick if you find it...two days of trolling the Subie sites hasn't yielded an answer. Thanks

/Possible tangent, but throwing it out there: I have '96 Legacy 2.2 L SEDAN that has the Charcoal Canister (CC) in the REAR, underneath on the passenger side; not under the hood in the front passenger side. A '96 Outback 2.5 ECU would NOT work as the CC is in the front and caused a purge valve CEL; a '99 EJ25D ECU didn't work and caused multiple CEL's - as noted above it's looking for '99 TCU/TCM, too. I ended up using a '98 EJ25D GT/OB ECU as it has the CC in the rear and matches my '96 config. (Running an EJ25D ECU for more fuel (i hope) for my turbo.) This may be unique to the '96 EJ22 Sedan version, but may want to make sure yours matches if you choose to go to a different year. /End Tangent

Usually?? It's suggested to replace pads w/rotors so they 'wear (bed-in) together', but I've done it both ways and seems to work fine. I'd still bed-in the new rotors w/the old pads if you do that. To add to the above. - The rotors are not bolted on directly (NO offense, Rooster), they're held on by the wheels+lug bolts, but they do get 'sticky' so follow the above. - This is for '90-2004 Subies (I've not worked on anything newer). - The calipers should be supported by some wire, rope, etc. so there's no strain on the brake lines. - Remove the cap, or @ least loosen it (to keep out water, etc) on the Brake Master Cylinder as you'll need to compress the calipers' pistons to make room for the new, thicker parts, which pushes the fluid back in the MC - this applies to both rotors only and rotors+pads. Make sure it's not already full. - You do NOT need to bleed the brakes as you're not disconnecting the brake lines, but if you don't know the age of your brake fluid now's a good time to bleed them - If you have a helper. Bleed: RF, LR, LF, RR (Not like most cars). But since you live in the Land of Rust (PA), you may not want to even touch those bleed screws if they're rusty. GL, td

Scroll down to Section 4-1 HERE to see the FSM for the Pneumatic suspension.

"dropping the tank" may not be on your 'to do' list either. IIRC, it's not just a strap to release it. More like the whole rear suspension/drive shaft/rear diff? Recommend more searching on that, too. Acces to both is on top right behind the rear seats - pull up the carpet pads. Td

Hi, You see THIS? I'd see if it'd work on your newer model. Saves a lot of work.

Hi, Common enough issue in the '90s Legacy that you'll find more posts on here/online. There are two floats - left and right - that determine how the gauge displays, and they wear out/get corroded on their sensor. You'll want to do more online searching to determine which one is most likely causing the issue. I have read about using different types of fuel additives (?) that may help w/this, and I personally have noticed mine works better since I changed to a Top Tier fuel (Costco), but it still shows prematurely low. GL, TD

Hi, There's more info on this system on the Legacy Central website as well, http://bbs.legacycentral.org/, but essentially the bladders (?) don't hold air. If you CAN even buy parts they're $$x$$, so plan on just replacing it w/stock suspension. If you need a lift, there are multiple posts online on LIFTing the 1st Gen ('90-'94) to match the '96-'99 Outback. GL, Td

Cars101.com is good resource: http://www.cars101.com/subaru/forester/forester2014.html#specs 2014 was the first year for the 2.0XT, so not going to have the history of the 2.5, although it's still a youngun' compared to the EJ-series it replaced. I know the NA 2.5 is one of CR's top-rated SUV's for MPG: CR Overall 26 mpg City 18 / Hwy 35 mpg The XT's CVT gets 23 City/28 Hwy/25 Overall from Cars101.com, (which sounds a bit optimistic?). C/D got 22 overall. Same engine is used in the 2015+ WRX, so may be worth a stroll thru the NASIOC.com website.

Interesting...not here to argue, but that's not 'factory'. May be someone swapped it? Or a unicorn. :-)

Assuming you keep the stock Impreza tires, the 4.44 will improve your performance. Your RPM will be higher @ the same MPH you had w/the 4.11. MPG may drop 1-2 MPG....but I've read it may not, too. Note your speedo will be OFF as the Legacy OB trans speedo gear is setup for taller tires. And there is no LSD on any US-spec Legacy/OB/Impreza/Forester from '92-'00....so check the year from that local yard's collection.

my .03 (inflation): Since you're buying NEW, I'd ensure you test drive them both as the Crosstrek's 2.0 will be 'less enthusiastic' power-wise than the Forester's 2.5. Your EB-equipped F150 will feel like a dragster compared to either, regardless. The current version of the CVT is actually better, if my online browsing is accurate. They use one in the WRX and I've read good things about it in that application, too. And 3 Fords w/no issues? Lucky owner. GL, TD

STi 6-speed swap! :-) But you may want to look into getting an '04-'05 WRX trans - if yours is the '02-'03. Finding one that hasn't been 'beat on' may be tougher than finding a EJ25D w/out HG issues. :-( Td

No Offense, but the LSD didn't arrive in the Forester S (and possiby the Impreza RS) 'til '00, from what I've read. No USA Subaru, except for the SVX had an LSD from '92-'99, AFAIK - including the Legacy GT and OB. The '91 Legacy Sport Sedan - Turbo- (4EAT and 5-speed) was the only year w/the rear 3.90 VLSD. Here's another LIST on NASIOC.

and if the car has no body damage in the JY, it probably does have mechanical woes.....keep looking.

Didn't note your version of the Legacy? Any 4EAT EJ25 from '96-'98 are 4.44; EJ22 w/4EAT are all 4.11. This applies to all Legacy, Forester and Impreza. These will all interchange w/your '96. '99+ are the phase 2 4EAT....no go.

The #1 thing we need to know - I believe - is this a 5-speed or Automatic? 5-speed can be flat towed all 4 wheels on the ground; Autos must either be towed on a flat bed truck - all 4 wheels on bed OR you can remove the 4 12mm bolts (wrench size) @ the rear diff/drive shatft connection and tow w/the front wheels on a tow dolly dragging the rear wheels. Read your Owner's Manual to be sure.

check your CV axles. If they are completely broken - inside the rubber boot - not in the diff - they will spin on the TRANS side but not the wheel/hub end. Only takes one broken CV to stop the car - due to the open diffs. Albeit, when this happend on my '96 Legacy it would still @ least move. GL, TD