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I was just going to suggest the '96 EJ25D version...no go either? But I've read that those early Legacy EJ20G's were....unique. There may (not) be some useful info from this Thread on the LC BBs. I 2nd the partsouq.com resource...but you'll need a part number, AFAIK.

Ok...I'm assuming your 'blown engine' in the '99 is rod bearings? If the HEADS are salvageable you can put those on the '01 EJ22 and make a 'reverse franken(stein) motor' hybrid.* It'd be lower compression than either engine was originally but would only cost you a head gasket (mostly) to make it work. *Some take a 2.5 short block from a '96+ Subaru and put the 2.2 heads on it to make a high-compression torquey engine...referred to as a 'franken build' by some. GL, TD

Hi, I'd go see what others have done on NASIOC.com...not 'shooing' you away, just more Impreza/WRX/STi stuff over there. My .03 is you might need camber bolts on the rear...but I doubt it if you have coilovers specific to the car...they should've included any parts if needed to make it fit/align properly. GL, TD

+1 Or looked UP @ the linkage from underneath? GL, Td

Michelin Latitude on our RAV4; Michelin Defender on my Subaru Legacy. Both sets work well for my 99% on road adventures. I do use studded snows in the winter on both cars due the frequent freeze/thaw cycles we get in the winter leading to icy roads. But both of these were highly rated by CR. GL, TD

Hi and welcome, Should be PnP. Take it back or see the dealer. Also, you can get more info on the dedicated Impreza/WRX/STi site: NASIOC.com. GL, Td

Hi, I don't know your used car parts avl. in AK, but as noted by me, on here, and numerous posts on other subie sites, the EJ22 is generally the easiest and cheapest.....really. If you're hauling/towing/high elevation a lot you'll notice the loss of power, but w/a 5-speed you can shift around it. Down here the EJ22 is $700 or less....usually. BUT I don't know diddly about rebuilding a Subie engine, so your mileage may vary (YMMV). GL, TD

Awesome update and results. Good job!

Not sure what you mean by later, as the '91-'94 US Legacy and the overseas WRX/STi and Legacy/LIberty turbo and all used the same setup w/the extra coolant/reservoir tank from '89+...@ least AFAIK. I did have an '88 (?) GL-10 Turbo, but I don't recall how it was plumbed. And, yep...I did that 'goofy' mod on both of mine.

I'm not sure what you did w/the ATF so hard to say...you put in 6.5 qts? Why was it so low? Were you changing it out? Did you shift it THROUGH the gears (don't have to drive it) to circulate the fluid? As I noted above, there is fluid in the torque converter AND the transmission so likely there was already some in there, which would make up the ~3.5 qt difference. I don't know your tech/mech level....but if you have a Subaru shop you trust (not necessarily a dealer, but Highly recommend a Subaru-trained shop), I'd have them do it. You can pull the codes yourself - READ THIS LINK for info. Attached are pics of the TCU's for your '99 and a 2004 Legacy....it LOOKS like they should interchange, but that doesn't mean it'll work, as the transmission you have installed may have the VDC/VTD and the wiring for the sensors aren't likely in your wiring harness from the transmission to the TCU....since yours is 5 years older. If you have a USED parts yard nearby that allows returns you could try it. So, Yes, the best route is to just find a compatible transmission. Although 11K miles looks good on paper, it's important to see how long it's been sitting on their shelf. The internal seals will harden up if not in use and they probably won't warranty the seals if the trans leaks after being installed. I can't say how long is TOO long, but I'd be cautious if over a year sitting on the shelf. The parts place should have the VIN from the car it came out of and you get a VIN check for $1.50 here - http://www.freecheapvin.myspan.in/ - to see if the #'s and dates match what they're telling you. TD

The correct amount of fluid is probably about the same between the trans....about 10 qts.>>> 5 is in the pan; 5 in the torque converter. If it was empty, you'd have to put in some, start it to cycle the ATF thru the TC, check it, fill some more, repeat til Full on the dipstick...ATF checking in a Subie is a PITA. I can't diagnose your other issues - although low fluid may have the same symptoms you describe, but there's likely a way to retrieve the codes stored in the TCU...w/out a scanner - look/search on Google - I know there is for the '98 and earlier. It's a called a 'secret handshake' or similar due to the way it's retrieved by moving the shifter + brake + on/of ignition...w/the car NOT running.

Hi, No offense, but driving it doesn't mean it's correct. The FD ratio is probably fine - 4.44 but the trans computer may not know what to do with it. Is the AT Temp light flashing on startup? You could see if the TCU/TCM (trans computer) from the list above will plug in to yours (doubt it though). Go to Car-part.com and search on year/make/model - search ALL to find p/n.....search local for pricing. I found this trans code: TZ1A3ZC2AA When I Google that P/N: What This Fits Subaru Forester 2.5L AT L 1999, 2000, 2001 Subaru Forester 2.5L AT S 1999, 2000, 2001 That's the wrong trans in your car.....probably why it failed.....speaking of which, What's it doing?

Hi, If you're only trying to increase the radiator capacity for adding a turbo, then I'd tell you 'don't bother'. I've turbo'd a '90 Legacy and a '98 Forester - both made over 250 HP/Torque @ the wheels and NEVER got hot w/the stock radiator....duriing 90° summers and Autocrosses. But to answer your question, I'd bet the XT radiator is too tall to fit. The '91-94 Subaru Legacy turbo models had a taller radiator and different front mounting area to accomodate it....I'd be surprised if that isn't the case here as well. GL, TD

Hi and Welcome, My buddy, Google, found the attached @ this LINK....but I doubt it's correct for your '99. ....double-check your TZ . GL, Td

Yeah or I should say No. Can't do that. Phase 1 refers to engine and transmissions used by Subaru from 1990-1998. There are differences between years but nothing as major as the phase 2 changes in 1999. It's mainly electronic changes that make it very hard to put your 01 in the 99. You'd have to do a complete harness swap. If you read enough you'll see the phrase "Subies are like Legos", which is mostly true. The engines and trans from '90 - '10? will all bolt together, w/minor changes over the years. But they won't necessarily start/run due to dffererences in ECUs, etc. And '99 was transition year, so the Legacy Outback and GT w/the EJ25D/ 2.5 have a Phase 1 electronics vs. the Legacy L/Base model w/the EJ22/2.2 have the Phase 2 electronics....yeah, confusing and frustrating for swapping. Plz read up on this. Google is your friend.

Hi, Unfortunately, this is that Phase 1 vs Phase 2 issue that is covered on here....a lot. 1999 Outback is a hybrid engine w/the Phase 2 short block but Phase 1 heads. ...meaning it's a No Go for anything newer. You could use the EJ22 short block w/the EJ25D heads, but I wouldn't......it'd be EDIT (see below): 'higher' compression ratio. You could find a Ej22 from a '95-'98 legacy or impreza and swap in. As noted on here it's 99% plug and play. GL, TD

P0328 is your knock sensor/KS. Check if it's cracked or has wiring issues. On older Subies if the KS was bad it would trigger other codes. Fix the KS and the others would clear after an ECU Reset. There should be a EGI (ECU) fuse under the hood to reset it too....But double-check on that.

Maybe I missed the 'memo', but you stated: ".... soon as I turn the key on (not starting it) the CEL is on solid." This is the way it works b4 it's started....along w/the Battery, Oil, AT Temp, etc. lights. If the CEL stays on AFTER starting that's an issue and there are still codes, and if you have no Speedo, yes you'll get a CEL and likely the TCU has related codes since it uses info from the ECU, too. A common failure is the cable that connects to the Transmission - near the dipstick for the differential oil on the passenger side. Remove the sensor and inspect the tab @ the end of it.....they break a lot. The 16 flashes only is an 'alert' that there's something AT-related. A regular - Autozone type- OBD2 scanner won't get 'em. Here's how to get/pull the AT codes - LINK.

Hi, AFAIK, nothing since '95+ has the FD ratio listed. Although those ebay listings might fit, Subaru may have changed the rear axle splines or pinion flange bolt spacing, etc. to make things 'complicated'. As noted above if you stick w/the rear diff from the '95-'98 (maybe '99, too) EJ22 Autos or EJ25 5-speeds it'll be plug-n-play - this applies to the Legacy, Impreza and Forester. Car-part.com also shows some up to 2004...FWIW. Td

HI and Welcome, Yeah...there were 2 engines in '96 2.2 SOHC used in all 5-speed transmission and 2.5 DOHC used in all Automatics.....the 2.2 is considered the better engine and it's a lot less likely to have the head gasket issues. It sounds like to me you need to 'burp' the cooling system. ...search on here on 'how tos'. And get the CEL code read....that's key to getting accurate help. I doubt the exhaust you bought is universal to fit all those models. Pretty much '95-'99 Legacy Wagon and sedan are probably compatible, but not w/an Impreza. Attached is a from a '97 Legacy Outback - fits both the 2.2 and 2.5. There should be 'donut' gasket that seals where the spring connection is used. If it's not fitting correctly it'll leak.

Buy used on CL...maybe all the NE cars are rusted out? Or look on Ebay for cheap(er) replacements. See attached. Applies to most of the pre 2014 (?) Subarus. NA / Non-turbo for most Subaurs ( '05-'10? had dual - exhaust). Legacy GT Turbo - '05 + /'08+ WRX WRX '02-'07

Well done! It would appear you managed to 'make it work' and no EGR code is very interesting. I'd thought some on here had tried different ECUs, but maybe grounding those 'manual/ 5-speed' pins tricks the ECU, too? Anyway, good job. TD

Welcome to the USMB, This POST on another Subie site may prove helpful. I'm not experienced w/the newer 2005+ stuff.......so may be some more gotchas. Engine can come out the top. Remember to ensure the Torque Converter/TC stays w/the trans! Remove the 4 bolts to the flex plate, and then once there's room between engine and trans strap that TC in place. P/S pump and AC can be set aside - no need to remove completely or deal w/recharging AC.

Welcome to the USMB, car-part.com will show 'for sure' interchange. but you (and we) also need to know the engine - 4 or 6, Manual or Automatic, and the trim level - Limted, LL Bean, VDC, etc. Td

HI and welcome, Visit the specific sites: Subaruforester.org and legacygt.com for more info. Both are nice cars, w/a couple BIG potential gotchas. Both use the EJ255 / 2.5 turbo engine, which is very similar to the EJ257 used in the STi. This engine has a history of blowing ringlands on the pistons, among other things. The VF40 turbo on the GT can also die an early death and take out the engine. The TD04 turbo in the Forester isn't immune to failure either. YOU ABSOLUTELY MUST get a compression AND leak down test done before you buy either car to help rule out engine issues...still no guarantees. If you can't get a detailed maintenance history, do NOT buy. Both cars have higher maintenance costs than a non-turbo. If you don't have a budget to fix it do NOT buy. I'd prefer the H6 / 3.0 6-cylinder engine version of the Legacy or Outback over the turbo version. Similar performance w/hopefully less pain to to the pocket (book). Seriously. TD