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HI, What have you done 'to figure it out' so far? Tuneups? Any recent maintenance or major work done? Original 2.5 engine and trans? Used the green diagnostics under the dash to check sensors? Used an OBD2 Code Scanner to see if there are any stored codes? (Regardless of the CEL being on or not) Let us know, TD

Hi and Welcome to the USMB, Did the Torque Converter come out ...even a little bit..when you pulled the engine? If so, are you 100% sure you re-seated it properly? Td

I would think EGR would show up by now...and by 'cyclical' you understand that's cycles of On>Off>On>off, etc, not just one long drive. So, maybe you fix the IAC and you're 'golden'. Read this about IAC...maybe it's a relay?http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/p0505-iacv-power-issues-229016.html Throwing parts @ it is a 'poor' diagnostic tool (and makes you poor!) so hopefully you can find something b4 your wallet does.

IM: I'm not following....when you say 'not the new 2.2 EGR setup' you lost me. The EGR is what you need?? If I'm kinda following, the only thing you 'might' want to change is to use the 2.5 Throttle Body as it has the vacuum lines you 'might' need....just to be clear (not condescending), I'm referring to one of these: Yo You could install the IM 'as is' and see if it all hooks up. RE: the wire harness ..some clarification....for my benefit, if nothing else....The 3 connectors for the engine harness from the IM that plug in by the passenger side are all connected to one bracket attached to the upper right bolt that secures the trans/engine together. There should be 2 connectors for the Auto transmission that are farther back towards the firewall that are unused (depending on how you wired in yours) due to your swap.....and I don't have any other info on those 2.

Your setup is 'unique' as it was an Automatic>>now Manual>>but since I (USMB?) haven't figured out a work-around for the EGR, I'd connect it up like an Automatic - as far as the EGR is concerned.

Hi, IIRC, you just put that entire IM (Intake manifold) w/its included (automatic) harness on and you'd be good to go....that's what I've done on my two cars. If it helps, scroll down to the pics on my first post HERE to see - maybe - how mine is hooked up. Be warned that my setup is a '96 EGR-equipped (automatic) IM on EJ22T (turbo) heads and a '91 short block. But the IM SHOULD be the same as any other regarding the throttle body, etc.....except for>>>>I do know that the early EJ25/2.5 throttle bodies (TB) had different vaccum connections due to the charcoal canister/purge/evap setup. In fact, if you have the charcoal canster by the front pass. side under the hood on yours, you may want to use the EJ25 TB....I'm thinking?

HI, There is lots of info online about this topic. A good resource may be http://bobistheoilguy.com/....and there are many opinions.... My .02: Synthetic is added insurance and extends your Oil Change Interval (OIC). But with stop and go, hot/cold, hard, or severe driving, (and a Turbocharged engine) replace every 3,000 miles or 3 months whichever comes first - it's considered Severe Use (I think it's called) in the Owner's Manual. If you don't fall under the Severe Use category, 3K OIC's are a waste of $$...yes, I stated it out loud, even w/NON-synthetic oil changes. The 3K OIC is a good $$ for the oil change industry, though. IMHO, one of the main issues w/Subarus is ensuring your oil level is FULL, due to the vagaries of oil consumptin due to head gasket (HG) failure, internal engine failure (see FB25 oil consumption issues), etc. Running low on oil in any vehicle is a death knell, but Subarus 'have a history'. Steering wheel: I believe the Owner's Manual also notes that most/all Subars since mid-90's have 'proportional steering' where the steering effort varies - Subaru-speak: "Power rack & pinion with engine speed sensing variable assist". I dont' know if this is electric or hydraulic on your '11. GL, Td

+1: Google'd your question on line and one answer is HERE: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/replacing-tires.htm It's really not a scam to get your $, but rather to save your AWD transmission....as much I don't like it either. :-( Tangent: If you're @ all tire-knowledgeable and can deal w/a bit of risk, just check out your local CL ads...I've bought mulitple sets w/out issue.

Hi, If this is indeed 'new behavior' and the car is under warranty, have it checked out. Might be a CVT software update. Sounds like what an Auto trans would do when the Torque Converter unlocks/locks. TD

Hi and welcome, Before you do any of the below: Any CEL or AT Temp Light (not sure if the '00 OB has that still) on? What does it idle @ when warmed up? I'ver read that a TPS (throttle position sensor) or IACV (idle air control valve) can cause weird shifts, too. How many miles since the ATF and Screen were changed? It takes the TCU/TCM (trans control unit/module) a few miles to 'relearn' the shifting if your fluid was bad enough to cause the poor shifting....also, you can try 'resetting' the TCU / ECU (engine control unit) by disconnecting the Neg. battery terminal for an hour (remember, you'll lose your radio presets AND your remote key fob/alarm may need 'paired' - so know what needs done b4 you disconnect!). Your car will 'start from scratch' as both computers (Trans and engine) relearn their jobs...but if it won't fix any existing issues, as they'll eventually come back. GL, Td

A new post may get you more 'look's...and I don't have any ideas. :-( Maybe Fairtax will.

Hi, I would change it anyway, but you may have a 'short' not sure what you UK's call it. - when a loose, frayed, cut, wire hits another wire or metal - unintended earth/ground contact? You really need to 'read the code' when the CEL/MIL light comes on....it may be stored in the ECU, too. Do your local Auto Parts stores check codes for free or know someone w/a scanner? TD

What the Trans shop may be referring to is when a transmission is 'power flushed' the old fluid that was actually help 'seal the seals' in the transmission may be loosened and the seals will begin to leak. I've had this happen, but wasn't warned it COULD happen and had to rebuild the transmission shortly after the flush. If the transmission really is about 'dead', I'd recommend what we here on the USMB tell everyone to do: Drain>Refill>Drive, Repeat 3 times. There are approx. 4-5 qts of ATF in the trans. pan and 4-5 qts in the Torque Converter. By doing the drain>refill>drive multiple times it gets MOST of the old ATF out of the system, WITHOUT disturbing the seals, as there's no pressure involved...just gravity draining it out. Drive the car for a few miles and trips and see if it's better. REMEMBER that when the ATF is changed out the transmission will shift differently as it adjusts to the new fluid....read the Owner's Manual about this. TD

Let me repeat, repeating, by repeating, to repeat myself. Yes, '95-'98. And Do NOT confuse the Impreza's 1.8 EGR on the '92-'95 (?) it's not the same system - OBD1. I know the 1.8 was used 'til '97ish, so it had to be OBD2 in '96, but I don't know if that's the same as the 2.2's. But a 2.2 Impreza IM w/EGR will work, too. Remember '95-'98 2.2 WITH Automatic were all EGR-equipped.

HI, That 'spin-on' filter is NOT the same as an oil filter...there's a reason it's more expensive - READ THIS. And actually it's designed to last the life of the trans, from everything I've read....but since you've not been 'paying to play' w/your maintenance history, it probably should be replaced w/the Subaru part. And make sure the Trans shop checks your FRONT and REAR differential gear oil........

Hi and Welcome to the USMB, I'd start w/reviewing the Owner's Manual (you did read it cover to cover, right? ). Or call the dealer and talk to the Service Mgr. He/She may get that question a lot and have an answer @ the ready.....or they may have you bring it to fix under warranty. GL, TD

being devil's advocate, I'm not as optimistic. The EGR is one of those 'cyclical' codes,.....meaning it may take 2-3 drive cycles (drive for x amount of time, turn off car, and repeat) before it 'pops' again as the ECU decides 'yep, there's still a problem'. I had that happen w/a emission code (bad purge valve, IIRC) on previous Subaru. After replacing the part the dealer suggested, I drove the car for almost an hour, thought it was good to go, shut it off, started it back up and the code returned. :-( So, I'd go drive it for 10 mins, turn it off, and repeat 3-4 times to see what all comes back. Don't clear any codes 'til you finish, to ensure they ALL show up. I'd suggest Googling the p0505 as that's a new one to me. But the IAC can be cleaned and adjusted. There are two Philips screws that hold down the top portion and allow it to turn left/right. I've also replaced that top portion as it just pulls straight up after removing the screws (don't lose 'em!)...there's a magnet inside so it'll offer some resistance when removed. Here's a LINK to some of the FSM's for reference. Look up using those green plugs for diagnostics to verify your other sensors are working...that's how I found my bad purge valve mentioned above.

I'd guess the previous owner (PO) was diagnosing the issues before they sold it and never bothered to UNplug 'em. BTW, you should be able to swap the Throttle Body from 2.5>>2.2 so the ECU sees the same....er, you swapped ECU's so scratch that...probably.

Hi and welcome from the UK, Not many experts on the European Subarus on this forum, so you may want to go Down Under an check with your mates there. USA didn't get the 'sport shift' (dangit!) option until maybe 2008+ as I looked in to adding it to my '02 WRX, which I could not. On the NON-turbo models in the US we had the FWD fuse (to disable the AWD via the Duty C) either in the fuse box or by the passenger strut tower. My '02 didn't have it being turbo'd. If yours DOES it may help confirm, but based on what I read above it could be either the transfer clutches or rear diff so the FWD fuse wouldn't help in either case. My suggestion is to the do what is commonly recommended on this site: Drain the ATF from the pan (about 4 qts/liters), Refilll, drive through all gears and repeat 2 more times. So, Drain>Refill>Drive * 3. That may also help w/the TB. As you likely know only 1/2 the fluid is in the pan; the other 1/2 is in the Torque Converter (TC), so doing it 3 times gets the majority out of the TC, too. It might be useful to lookup the Trans and rear diff info on opposedforces.com - it has an EDM/European Domestic Market section that probably covers yours. Try this: opposedforces.com/parts/impreza/en_g11/type_25/ It shows Right-Hand drive option, too. Under +Train>Differential, it lists 4.44 as your Final drive ratio...depending on the build date. That should've made the AT-equipped WRX even better off the line (mine was S-L-O-W - even w/the TC and valve body upgrades I installed). Good luck/Cheers, TD

I've never had luck checking it 'cold' - it's always wrong, but not sure you should drive it 'til it's warm and check it, per the manual. But, yes, wipe it clean, reinsert and check again. There should be a 'cold' mark on the dipstick.

Welcome to the USMB, How much fuel/petrol in the tank when you've taken the turns? Low fuel will starve fuel pump and cut out. And if yours has the EJ205, it's probably due for a head gasket and crank bearings. BTW, NASIOC.com is the center of the universe for Subaru Imprezas/WRX/STi. GL, TD

HI and Welcome, You 'bumped' an 11 year old thread. Usually better to start a new thread. In this case, I'm wondering if you got your drain plugs and/ or dipsticks mixed up. There are @ least 3 near the front on most Automatic-equipped Subarus: - Oil - Front Differential gear oil - Transmission fluid/ATF Attached is the Owners Manual section that includes Automatic Transmission info. And that YELLOW dipstick is for checking the fluid level, in the attached pic. GL, Td 2001 Outback Owners Manual.pdf

>>>>>>>>>>>>double-post

Green - like these. Every Subaru from '90-200? has 'em, AFAIK. I don't know about the blue plugs.

Drop that plastic piece - just below the steering wheel- like 3 screws and 30 seconds, and you'll see a bunch of wires.