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HI and Welcome, Yeah...there were 2 engines in '96 2.2 SOHC used in all 5-speed transmission and 2.5 DOHC used in all Automatics.....the 2.2 is considered the better engine and it's a lot less likely to have the head gasket issues. It sounds like to me you need to 'burp' the cooling system. ...search on here on 'how tos'. And get the CEL code read....that's key to getting accurate help. I doubt the exhaust you bought is universal to fit all those models. Pretty much '95-'99 Legacy Wagon and sedan are probably compatible, but not w/an Impreza. Attached is a from a '97 Legacy Outback - fits both the 2.2 and 2.5. There should be 'donut' gasket that seals where the spring connection is used. If it's not fitting correctly it'll leak.

Buy used on CL...maybe all the NE cars are rusted out? Or look on Ebay for cheap(er) replacements. See attached. Applies to most of the pre 2014 (?) Subarus. NA / Non-turbo for most Subaurs ( '05-'10? had dual - exhaust). Legacy GT Turbo - '05 + /'08+ WRX WRX '02-'07

Well done! It would appear you managed to 'make it work' and no EGR code is very interesting. I'd thought some on here had tried different ECUs, but maybe grounding those 'manual/ 5-speed' pins tricks the ECU, too? Anyway, good job. TD

Welcome to the USMB, This POST on another Subie site may prove helpful. I'm not experienced w/the newer 2005+ stuff.......so may be some more gotchas. Engine can come out the top. Remember to ensure the Torque Converter/TC stays w/the trans! Remove the 4 bolts to the flex plate, and then once there's room between engine and trans strap that TC in place. P/S pump and AC can be set aside - no need to remove completely or deal w/recharging AC.

Welcome to the USMB, car-part.com will show 'for sure' interchange. but you (and we) also need to know the engine - 4 or 6, Manual or Automatic, and the trim level - Limted, LL Bean, VDC, etc. Td

HI and welcome, Visit the specific sites: Subaruforester.org and legacygt.com for more info. Both are nice cars, w/a couple BIG potential gotchas. Both use the EJ255 / 2.5 turbo engine, which is very similar to the EJ257 used in the STi. This engine has a history of blowing ringlands on the pistons, among other things. The VF40 turbo on the GT can also die an early death and take out the engine. The TD04 turbo in the Forester isn't immune to failure either. YOU ABSOLUTELY MUST get a compression AND leak down test done before you buy either car to help rule out engine issues...still no guarantees. If you can't get a detailed maintenance history, do NOT buy. Both cars have higher maintenance costs than a non-turbo. If you don't have a budget to fix it do NOT buy. I'd prefer the H6 / 3.0 6-cylinder engine version of the Legacy or Outback over the turbo version. Similar performance w/hopefully less pain to to the pocket (book). Seriously. TD

Welcome to the USMB, Matt is 100% correct. I'd add that I personally would avoid using the shortblock from that '98. They were usually susceptible to overheating from the failed head gaskets and may not have much life left. There's a lot of interchange info on here and the web....remember, Imprezas and Foresters used the same engine, so anything from '99-'05ish Impreza/Forester and '00-'05 Legacy can be used w/minor work (use your '03's intake manifold).

Just to add to the above, RomRaider and ECUFlash are both free software you can download and run on most Windows-based laptops. You need a special Tactrix cable to connect to the car's OBD2 port. In this case, find someone local that does tuning and they can turn off the code.. Don't expect it be free, but likely much cheaper than trying to fix one of Subaru's design mistakes from the factory. td

+1 Related issue I had HERE. Note that the Purge valves are not all the same, from what I've seen, even though a '97 fit my '02. The electric plug for the connector seems to vary, so if you get a USED one ensure it matches exactly...and I wouldn't buy new. td

HI and Welcome to the USMB, That is a P0341 - Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Range/Performance code....nothing to do w/the O2 sensor. Typo on the code #?

Edit: His is an IMPREZA Outback. see below FWIW, there's another member on here fighting the same code. Coincidentally his also has the 2.2 swapped in (assume you know yours came stock w/the 2.5). His car starts and runs, so No the p0505 won't stop it from starting...from what I've read. I'd do some googling on the fuel pump relay....not an area of my expertise. And in the take or leave category: I'd also get rid of the ebay intake...Subarus come w/a CAI stock, and those aftermarkets can foul your MAF.

Welcome, As noted above you're in between 'generations' Phase1 vs. Phase2. It's covered a LOT on here and most Subaru sites as it's one of the most asked questions. The easiest and best swap (that are also covered on here) is the EJ22 from a '95-'98 Impreza or Legacy. It's a 99% compatible swap. Read up on the minor gotchas. The 2.2 is a better engine, albeit 30hp/torque less powerful. But unless you haul a lot of stuff, tow or drive up into the Cascades often, it'll do. You REALLY don't want to try to get the '99 into the '98....just not worth the hassle. GL, TD

Welcome the USMB, I bet they're both - the lights and switch - burnt out....Previous owner may have left them on all the time. I see lots of cars w/the fogs on ....must be 'a thing' and I missed the memo? Td

Yes....all the issues you stated can be attributed to a bad ECU, bad Grounds - on the car and to the Battery, etc. Plus, a host of other things, but our feedback is only as good as the info provide.

HI, What have you done 'to figure it out' so far? Tuneups? Any recent maintenance or major work done? Original 2.5 engine and trans? Used the green diagnostics under the dash to check sensors? Used an OBD2 Code Scanner to see if there are any stored codes? (Regardless of the CEL being on or not) Let us know, TD

Hi and Welcome to the USMB, Did the Torque Converter come out ...even a little bit..when you pulled the engine? If so, are you 100% sure you re-seated it properly? Td

I would think EGR would show up by now...and by 'cyclical' you understand that's cycles of On>Off>On>off, etc, not just one long drive. So, maybe you fix the IAC and you're 'golden'. Read this about IAC...maybe it's a relay?http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/p0505-iacv-power-issues-229016.html Throwing parts @ it is a 'poor' diagnostic tool (and makes you poor!) so hopefully you can find something b4 your wallet does.

IM: I'm not following....when you say 'not the new 2.2 EGR setup' you lost me. The EGR is what you need?? If I'm kinda following, the only thing you 'might' want to change is to use the 2.5 Throttle Body as it has the vacuum lines you 'might' need....just to be clear (not condescending), I'm referring to one of these: Yo You could install the IM 'as is' and see if it all hooks up. RE: the wire harness ..some clarification....for my benefit, if nothing else....The 3 connectors for the engine harness from the IM that plug in by the passenger side are all connected to one bracket attached to the upper right bolt that secures the trans/engine together. There should be 2 connectors for the Auto transmission that are farther back towards the firewall that are unused (depending on how you wired in yours) due to your swap.....and I don't have any other info on those 2.

Your setup is 'unique' as it was an Automatic>>now Manual>>but since I (USMB?) haven't figured out a work-around for the EGR, I'd connect it up like an Automatic - as far as the EGR is concerned.

Hi, IIRC, you just put that entire IM (Intake manifold) w/its included (automatic) harness on and you'd be good to go....that's what I've done on my two cars. If it helps, scroll down to the pics on my first post HERE to see - maybe - how mine is hooked up. Be warned that my setup is a '96 EGR-equipped (automatic) IM on EJ22T (turbo) heads and a '91 short block. But the IM SHOULD be the same as any other regarding the throttle body, etc.....except for>>>>I do know that the early EJ25/2.5 throttle bodies (TB) had different vaccum connections due to the charcoal canister/purge/evap setup. In fact, if you have the charcoal canster by the front pass. side under the hood on yours, you may want to use the EJ25 TB....I'm thinking?

HI, There is lots of info online about this topic. A good resource may be http://bobistheoilguy.com/....and there are many opinions.... My .02: Synthetic is added insurance and extends your Oil Change Interval (OIC). But with stop and go, hot/cold, hard, or severe driving, (and a Turbocharged engine) replace every 3,000 miles or 3 months whichever comes first - it's considered Severe Use (I think it's called) in the Owner's Manual. If you don't fall under the Severe Use category, 3K OIC's are a waste of $$...yes, I stated it out loud, even w/NON-synthetic oil changes. The 3K OIC is a good $$ for the oil change industry, though. IMHO, one of the main issues w/Subarus is ensuring your oil level is FULL, due to the vagaries of oil consumptin due to head gasket (HG) failure, internal engine failure (see FB25 oil consumption issues), etc. Running low on oil in any vehicle is a death knell, but Subarus 'have a history'. Steering wheel: I believe the Owner's Manual also notes that most/all Subars since mid-90's have 'proportional steering' where the steering effort varies - Subaru-speak: "Power rack & pinion with engine speed sensing variable assist". I dont' know if this is electric or hydraulic on your '11. GL, Td

+1: Google'd your question on line and one answer is HERE: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/replacing-tires.htm It's really not a scam to get your $, but rather to save your AWD transmission....as much I don't like it either. :-( Tangent: If you're @ all tire-knowledgeable and can deal w/a bit of risk, just check out your local CL ads...I've bought mulitple sets w/out issue.

Hi, If this is indeed 'new behavior' and the car is under warranty, have it checked out. Might be a CVT software update. Sounds like what an Auto trans would do when the Torque Converter unlocks/locks. TD

Hi and welcome, Before you do any of the below: Any CEL or AT Temp Light (not sure if the '00 OB has that still) on? What does it idle @ when warmed up? I'ver read that a TPS (throttle position sensor) or IACV (idle air control valve) can cause weird shifts, too. How many miles since the ATF and Screen were changed? It takes the TCU/TCM (trans control unit/module) a few miles to 'relearn' the shifting if your fluid was bad enough to cause the poor shifting....also, you can try 'resetting' the TCU / ECU (engine control unit) by disconnecting the Neg. battery terminal for an hour (remember, you'll lose your radio presets AND your remote key fob/alarm may need 'paired' - so know what needs done b4 you disconnect!). Your car will 'start from scratch' as both computers (Trans and engine) relearn their jobs...but if it won't fix any existing issues, as they'll eventually come back. GL, Td

A new post may get you more 'look's...and I don't have any ideas. :-( Maybe Fairtax will.