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Welcome to the USMB, Matt is 100% correct. I'd add that I personally would avoid using the shortblock from that '98. They were usually susceptible to overheating from the failed head gaskets and may not have much life left. There's a lot of interchange info on here and the web....remember, Imprezas and Foresters used the same engine, so anything from '99-'05ish Impreza/Forester and '00-'05 Legacy can be used w/minor work (use your '03's intake manifold).

Just to add to the above, RomRaider and ECUFlash are both free software you can download and run on most Windows-based laptops. You need a special Tactrix cable to connect to the car's OBD2 port. In this case, find someone local that does tuning and they can turn off the code.. Don't expect it be free, but likely much cheaper than trying to fix one of Subaru's design mistakes from the factory. td

+1 Related issue I had HERE. Note that the Purge valves are not all the same, from what I've seen, even though a '97 fit my '02. The electric plug for the connector seems to vary, so if you get a USED one ensure it matches exactly...and I wouldn't buy new. td

HI and Welcome to the USMB, That is a P0341 - Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Range/Performance code....nothing to do w/the O2 sensor. Typo on the code #?

Edit: His is an IMPREZA Outback. see below FWIW, there's another member on here fighting the same code. Coincidentally his also has the 2.2 swapped in (assume you know yours came stock w/the 2.5). His car starts and runs, so No the p0505 won't stop it from starting...from what I've read. I'd do some googling on the fuel pump relay....not an area of my expertise. And in the take or leave category: I'd also get rid of the ebay intake...Subarus come w/a CAI stock, and those aftermarkets can foul your MAF.

Welcome, As noted above you're in between 'generations' Phase1 vs. Phase2. It's covered a LOT on here and most Subaru sites as it's one of the most asked questions. The easiest and best swap (that are also covered on here) is the EJ22 from a '95-'98 Impreza or Legacy. It's a 99% compatible swap. Read up on the minor gotchas. The 2.2 is a better engine, albeit 30hp/torque less powerful. But unless you haul a lot of stuff, tow or drive up into the Cascades often, it'll do. You REALLY don't want to try to get the '99 into the '98....just not worth the hassle. GL, TD

Welcome the USMB, I bet they're both - the lights and switch - burnt out....Previous owner may have left them on all the time. I see lots of cars w/the fogs on ....must be 'a thing' and I missed the memo? Td

Yes....all the issues you stated can be attributed to a bad ECU, bad Grounds - on the car and to the Battery, etc. Plus, a host of other things, but our feedback is only as good as the info provide.

HI, What have you done 'to figure it out' so far? Tuneups? Any recent maintenance or major work done? Original 2.5 engine and trans? Used the green diagnostics under the dash to check sensors? Used an OBD2 Code Scanner to see if there are any stored codes? (Regardless of the CEL being on or not) Let us know, TD

Hi and Welcome to the USMB, Did the Torque Converter come out ...even a little bit..when you pulled the engine? If so, are you 100% sure you re-seated it properly? Td

I would think EGR would show up by now...and by 'cyclical' you understand that's cycles of On>Off>On>off, etc, not just one long drive. So, maybe you fix the IAC and you're 'golden'. Read this about IAC...maybe it's a relay?http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/p0505-iacv-power-issues-229016.html Throwing parts @ it is a 'poor' diagnostic tool (and makes you poor!) so hopefully you can find something b4 your wallet does.

IM: I'm not following....when you say 'not the new 2.2 EGR setup' you lost me. The EGR is what you need?? If I'm kinda following, the only thing you 'might' want to change is to use the 2.5 Throttle Body as it has the vacuum lines you 'might' need....just to be clear (not condescending), I'm referring to one of these: Yo You could install the IM 'as is' and see if it all hooks up. RE: the wire harness ..some clarification....for my benefit, if nothing else....The 3 connectors for the engine harness from the IM that plug in by the passenger side are all connected to one bracket attached to the upper right bolt that secures the trans/engine together. There should be 2 connectors for the Auto transmission that are farther back towards the firewall that are unused (depending on how you wired in yours) due to your swap.....and I don't have any other info on those 2.

Your setup is 'unique' as it was an Automatic>>now Manual>>but since I (USMB?) haven't figured out a work-around for the EGR, I'd connect it up like an Automatic - as far as the EGR is concerned.

Hi, IIRC, you just put that entire IM (Intake manifold) w/its included (automatic) harness on and you'd be good to go....that's what I've done on my two cars. If it helps, scroll down to the pics on my first post HERE to see - maybe - how mine is hooked up. Be warned that my setup is a '96 EGR-equipped (automatic) IM on EJ22T (turbo) heads and a '91 short block. But the IM SHOULD be the same as any other regarding the throttle body, etc.....except for>>>>I do know that the early EJ25/2.5 throttle bodies (TB) had different vaccum connections due to the charcoal canister/purge/evap setup. In fact, if you have the charcoal canster by the front pass. side under the hood on yours, you may want to use the EJ25 TB....I'm thinking?

HI, There is lots of info online about this topic. A good resource may be http://bobistheoilguy.com/....and there are many opinions.... My .02: Synthetic is added insurance and extends your Oil Change Interval (OIC). But with stop and go, hot/cold, hard, or severe driving, (and a Turbocharged engine) replace every 3,000 miles or 3 months whichever comes first - it's considered Severe Use (I think it's called) in the Owner's Manual. If you don't fall under the Severe Use category, 3K OIC's are a waste of $$...yes, I stated it out loud, even w/NON-synthetic oil changes. The 3K OIC is a good $$ for the oil change industry, though. IMHO, one of the main issues w/Subarus is ensuring your oil level is FULL, due to the vagaries of oil consumptin due to head gasket (HG) failure, internal engine failure (see FB25 oil consumption issues), etc. Running low on oil in any vehicle is a death knell, but Subarus 'have a history'. Steering wheel: I believe the Owner's Manual also notes that most/all Subars since mid-90's have 'proportional steering' where the steering effort varies - Subaru-speak: "Power rack & pinion with engine speed sensing variable assist". I dont' know if this is electric or hydraulic on your '11. GL, Td

+1: Google'd your question on line and one answer is HERE: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/replacing-tires.htm It's really not a scam to get your $, but rather to save your AWD transmission....as much I don't like it either. :-( Tangent: If you're @ all tire-knowledgeable and can deal w/a bit of risk, just check out your local CL ads...I've bought mulitple sets w/out issue.

Hi, If this is indeed 'new behavior' and the car is under warranty, have it checked out. Might be a CVT software update. Sounds like what an Auto trans would do when the Torque Converter unlocks/locks. TD

Hi and welcome, Before you do any of the below: Any CEL or AT Temp Light (not sure if the '00 OB has that still) on? What does it idle @ when warmed up? I'ver read that a TPS (throttle position sensor) or IACV (idle air control valve) can cause weird shifts, too. How many miles since the ATF and Screen were changed? It takes the TCU/TCM (trans control unit/module) a few miles to 'relearn' the shifting if your fluid was bad enough to cause the poor shifting....also, you can try 'resetting' the TCU / ECU (engine control unit) by disconnecting the Neg. battery terminal for an hour (remember, you'll lose your radio presets AND your remote key fob/alarm may need 'paired' - so know what needs done b4 you disconnect!). Your car will 'start from scratch' as both computers (Trans and engine) relearn their jobs...but if it won't fix any existing issues, as they'll eventually come back. GL, Td

A new post may get you more 'look's...and I don't have any ideas. :-( Maybe Fairtax will.

Hi, I would change it anyway, but you may have a 'short' not sure what you UK's call it. - when a loose, frayed, cut, wire hits another wire or metal - unintended earth/ground contact? You really need to 'read the code' when the CEL/MIL light comes on....it may be stored in the ECU, too. Do your local Auto Parts stores check codes for free or know someone w/a scanner? TD

What the Trans shop may be referring to is when a transmission is 'power flushed' the old fluid that was actually help 'seal the seals' in the transmission may be loosened and the seals will begin to leak. I've had this happen, but wasn't warned it COULD happen and had to rebuild the transmission shortly after the flush. If the transmission really is about 'dead', I'd recommend what we here on the USMB tell everyone to do: Drain>Refill>Drive, Repeat 3 times. There are approx. 4-5 qts of ATF in the trans. pan and 4-5 qts in the Torque Converter. By doing the drain>refill>drive multiple times it gets MOST of the old ATF out of the system, WITHOUT disturbing the seals, as there's no pressure involved...just gravity draining it out. Drive the car for a few miles and trips and see if it's better. REMEMBER that when the ATF is changed out the transmission will shift differently as it adjusts to the new fluid....read the Owner's Manual about this. TD

Let me repeat, repeating, by repeating, to repeat myself. Yes, '95-'98. And Do NOT confuse the Impreza's 1.8 EGR on the '92-'95 (?) it's not the same system - OBD1. I know the 1.8 was used 'til '97ish, so it had to be OBD2 in '96, but I don't know if that's the same as the 2.2's. But a 2.2 Impreza IM w/EGR will work, too. Remember '95-'98 2.2 WITH Automatic were all EGR-equipped.

HI, That 'spin-on' filter is NOT the same as an oil filter...there's a reason it's more expensive - READ THIS. And actually it's designed to last the life of the trans, from everything I've read....but since you've not been 'paying to play' w/your maintenance history, it probably should be replaced w/the Subaru part. And make sure the Trans shop checks your FRONT and REAR differential gear oil........

Hi and Welcome to the USMB, I'd start w/reviewing the Owner's Manual (you did read it cover to cover, right? ). Or call the dealer and talk to the Service Mgr. He/She may get that question a lot and have an answer @ the ready.....or they may have you bring it to fix under warranty. GL, TD

being devil's advocate, I'm not as optimistic. The EGR is one of those 'cyclical' codes,.....meaning it may take 2-3 drive cycles (drive for x amount of time, turn off car, and repeat) before it 'pops' again as the ECU decides 'yep, there's still a problem'. I had that happen w/a emission code (bad purge valve, IIRC) on previous Subaru. After replacing the part the dealer suggested, I drove the car for almost an hour, thought it was good to go, shut it off, started it back up and the code returned. :-( So, I'd go drive it for 10 mins, turn it off, and repeat 3-4 times to see what all comes back. Don't clear any codes 'til you finish, to ensure they ALL show up. I'd suggest Googling the p0505 as that's a new one to me. But the IAC can be cleaned and adjusted. There are two Philips screws that hold down the top portion and allow it to turn left/right. I've also replaced that top portion as it just pulls straight up after removing the screws (don't lose 'em!)...there's a magnet inside so it'll offer some resistance when removed. Here's a LINK to some of the FSM's for reference. Look up using those green plugs for diagnostics to verify your other sensors are working...that's how I found my bad purge valve mentioned above.