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I'd guess the previous owner (PO) was diagnosing the issues before they sold it and never bothered to UNplug 'em. BTW, you should be able to swap the Throttle Body from 2.5>>2.2 so the ECU sees the same....er, you swapped ECU's so scratch that...probably.

Hi and welcome from the UK, Not many experts on the European Subarus on this forum, so you may want to go Down Under an check with your mates there. USA didn't get the 'sport shift' (dangit!) option until maybe 2008+ as I looked in to adding it to my '02 WRX, which I could not. On the NON-turbo models in the US we had the FWD fuse (to disable the AWD via the Duty C) either in the fuse box or by the passenger strut tower. My '02 didn't have it being turbo'd. If yours DOES it may help confirm, but based on what I read above it could be either the transfer clutches or rear diff so the FWD fuse wouldn't help in either case. My suggestion is to the do what is commonly recommended on this site: Drain the ATF from the pan (about 4 qts/liters), Refilll, drive through all gears and repeat 2 more times. So, Drain>Refill>Drive * 3. That may also help w/the TB. As you likely know only 1/2 the fluid is in the pan; the other 1/2 is in the Torque Converter (TC), so doing it 3 times gets the majority out of the TC, too. It might be useful to lookup the Trans and rear diff info on opposedforces.com - it has an EDM/European Domestic Market section that probably covers yours. Try this: opposedforces.com/parts/impreza/en_g11/type_25/ It shows Right-Hand drive option, too. Under +Train>Differential, it lists 4.44 as your Final drive ratio...depending on the build date. That should've made the AT-equipped WRX even better off the line (mine was S-L-O-W - even w/the TC and valve body upgrades I installed). Good luck/Cheers, TD

I've never had luck checking it 'cold' - it's always wrong, but not sure you should drive it 'til it's warm and check it, per the manual. But, yes, wipe it clean, reinsert and check again. There should be a 'cold' mark on the dipstick.

Welcome to the USMB, How much fuel/petrol in the tank when you've taken the turns? Low fuel will starve fuel pump and cut out. And if yours has the EJ205, it's probably due for a head gasket and crank bearings. BTW, NASIOC.com is the center of the universe for Subaru Imprezas/WRX/STi. GL, TD

HI and Welcome, You 'bumped' an 11 year old thread. Usually better to start a new thread. In this case, I'm wondering if you got your drain plugs and/ or dipsticks mixed up. There are @ least 3 near the front on most Automatic-equipped Subarus: - Oil - Front Differential gear oil - Transmission fluid/ATF Attached is the Owners Manual section that includes Automatic Transmission info. And that YELLOW dipstick is for checking the fluid level, in the attached pic. GL, Td 2001 Outback Owners Manual.pdf

>>>>>>>>>>>>double-post

Green - like these. Every Subaru from '90-200? has 'em, AFAIK. I don't know about the blue plugs.

Drop that plastic piece - just below the steering wheel- like 3 screws and 30 seconds, and you'll see a bunch of wires.

Yes, 2.2 EGR-equipped IM from a '95-'98 2.2 - Impreza or Legacy. The flashing CEL is.....weird. I think that's for 'active' codes, maybe? Are the GREEN diagnostic connectors under the dash connected? They should NOT be for normal use.

RE: EGR: If you find it let us know....that's why I created my post. If you search on here you'll find many EGR-related posts. None that I've read solve the issue. :-(

HI, You've likely got an EGR code, for one. The 2.2+5speed had NO EGR - most likely. But ALL '96-'99 EJ25D's should have it. Read THIS. The ECU won't overcome the lack of EGR, from what I've read. But the EGR code shouldn't affect perfomance. The car should run on the 2.5 ECU, too, as they weren't trans-specific back then. * *Tangent: I found out the SEDAN w/the 2.2 from '96 has the charcoal canister in the back like the '97+ Outbacks.

HI, I've read enough of your posts to know YOU KNOW your way around a Subaru, but How RU going to wire that EJ205 in? I'm not good w/the V-series of JDM stuff, so not sure on the year, but it may be older and not compatible w/whatever you have now. And the harness/ECU wiring may not plug-n-play...well. A couple of NASIOC v5/v6 Posts HERE and HERE, I found interesting. Those early 205's 'might' be the Hi-Comp (for a turbo) @ 9.1:1, which would help. I'm not an internal-engine piston/rod/etc. swapper so can't help. BTW, that 4.44 trans will be a 'screamer' on the highway. I've read 4K RPM @ 65mph in 5th, or something like that. Td p..s Thanks for the Partsouq.com info. I just ordered an old 90° elbow as a backup for my turbo'd '96 EJ22e.

A little Googlin' found THIS.....basically the 4 TC bolts (4 on the 5EAT's?) weren't torqued properly....but getting a torque wrench on those is near impossible. If you installed the 2nd one (that cracked) maybe an install issue (no offense)? If a NON-Subaru shop did it then, I'd find a real SUBIE shop. GL, Td

Yes...but this is for the P1 cars' electronics- pre-'99. P1 heads require P1 intake and electronics and won't work well>>easily on a P2. No offense to Matt167 but isn't the '99 EJ25D a P2 block w/the P1 EJ25D heads from the factory?...and you'd still have the issues w/the P1 vs. P2 electronics. Also, the '99 Forester was an odd year as it had the P2 EJ253 (per Wikipedia) and a MAF but not backwards compatible w/the pre-'99 MAF ECUs.

Which Internet? I just Google'd that #, and got this site near Seattle: http://parts.mikescarffsubaru.com/cart.aspx For $28.95 shipped. Call Jason Douglas there for maybe even a better deal...bought LOTS of parts from him always good service: Jason Douglas Dealer# 140714 Mike Scarff Subaru of Auburn 3025 Auburn way north Auburn, WA 98002 1-866-456-3025 253-737-1345

Hi, Clarify....you state Flexplate and Flywheel in the first post.....Flexplate = Automatic - 5EAT; Flywheel (FW) = 5-speed manual....they both connect to the crankshaft. Breaking a FW would be tough, so thinking you mean pressure plate, disk or? Flexplate's do break on occasion. How much boost/HP/Torque are you putting down? If stock, shouldn't break; 350+ just might? TD

Hi, REview THIS POST. Basically, you need a '95-'98 SOHC (ONLY) EGR-equipped intake manifold (IM). GL, Td

No. It will not. The USA/USDM Non-turbo DOHC 2.5 engines prior to '00 were the older Phase 1 version ('99 was transistion year and had Phase 2 blocks but used Phase 1 for everything else), and the electronics/sensors were not compatible. You 'could' technically use the short block, but I wouldn't recommend it unless it's new/rebuilt as used ones were probably overheated and/or the rod bearings worn out. And the newer ('11+) FB25 are also DOHC but not compatible either. GL. Td

Hi, Welcome. Although this site handles all Subarus, you may have more luck on NASIOC.com as they deal exclusively w/the Impreza, WRX and STi. Short answer is it won't bolt on 'as is'. The exhaust is made up of multiple sections, and the WRX exhaust is a bigger diameter. Part of it might fit, but you'd likely need to weld it or use adapters to bolt it up....and it provides NO performance improvement.

No offense to Fairtax, but I 'think' the EJ22+4EAT (not the EJ18+ 4EAT) in the '95 Impreza was OBD2...per this Post and this POST, too. Same as the '95 Legacy. It 'might' depend on the build date, but if it has the 2nd Gen (NOT Phase 2) TPS on the throttle body and if it has EGR on the 2.2, I'd also guess it's OBD2. A quick look on ebait and the TCU/TCM's for both Impreza and Legacy from a '95 appear to have the same pin/connectors, but the mounting bracket is different. GL, TD

^+1= LuckyTexan I'd add that the HG WILL FAIL on any Subaru prior to about 2011, when they changed from the EJxxx to the FBxx engines, IMHO (although the FB haven't proven themselves quite yet). Buffalo should have a few decent Subaru mechs that aren't dealer-based, which should be <$2K for the repair....but I'd stick w/a dedicated Subaru repair shop regardless. HERE IS ONE of the better used-car resources and the '06 isn't too bad. Usually the HG's are fixed the car will be (mostly) reliable for a long time. You may want to consider the timing belt/water pump/spark plugs, etc if you do the HG's, as they're due @ 105K miles, I believe....much ofthat stuff has to come off during the HG repair anyway, so may as well do it while it's apart....should save $200-300 (?) in labor costs. p.s. $4200 is Trade-In value (to a dealer) as the KBB Private Party value is $6700 (on Craigslist) w/those low miles...depending on overall condition.

^+1 I'd add: ALL 2.2 and 2.5 (and 1.8??) NON-turbo engines from '92-'98 used the same Green Label JECS or AUTECS MAF. p/n: 22680AA160 or 22680AA160F (same exact part; ones made in Japan the other in USA)

Look up replacing the Wiper Arm Bushings.....surely many posts on here/ online. My '98 Foz had same/similar issue and these fixed it. TD

EGR fix for '90-'94.

Read thru Legacy777/Josh's swap: http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/swap/swap.html Basically the reverse, but more work....yours is likely a 'cable' clutch setup vs. the hdyro/hydraulic used on the Turbos and EJ25D cars. The dash doesn't need changed unless you 'need' the AT Gear display on the dash...but the harness could be a real PITA....AT>>MT is MUCH easier. ....personally, I wouldn't bother. It that is a '90 AT it's the 4.11 and should work in any '90, '91, '95-'98 Subaru w/the 2.2. Any torque bind? TD