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The '97-'99 Legacy OB 5-speed will spin more RPMs in 5th. The '96-'99 Legacy GT is an option, but you'd want to double-check its ratios (its FDR is still 4.11) as I don't recall. From what I read recently the '99+ (phase 2) 5-speeds are better??? But I have 260K on my '98 Forester (and some of that has been turbocharged).

The Legacy 6MT must be either a JDM or DownUnder (El Freddo?) option...I've not seen one in the US market. I'd make sure I have a reliable source for it and the DIY install. The '04+ STI 6MT is a much bigger and $$ swap. Otherwise, any 5-speed from a '97-'00 (maybe a couple years newer too) Subaru that was connected to the EJ25x should bolt up, and have the 4.11 to match your rear diff.

The adjuster should tighten up as it's putting pressure directly on the brake shoes, and you'll want the tire in the air PROPERLY + SAFELY SUPPORTED, so it can be turned to find the 'sweet spot' between too much and not enough. As noted, 3-4 clicks is plenty.....and don't be one of those that yanks the living life out of the brake handle lever. :-)

You adjusted the 'star wheels' on the INside of the rear brake drums, Like this?: https://youtu.be/foX-EIqV76s?t=814 You can also pull the center cover around the parking brake and tighten the double-nutted adjuster there, too.

'96 2.5 = DOHC. Kit should be the same for the '96-'99 EJ25D. Yeah...stick with Aisin-based kits. And the Stant or OEM T-stat. Might want to add the oil pump, since you're 'right there' when you do the crankshaft seal. There's an o-ring for the oil pump-where it mates to the block- to replace and you'll want to tighten the large Philips head screws on block-side of the pump, too. Also, loosen the 2 motor mounts (14mm) to lift the engine a bit for access. Makes it easier to replace those NGK (only) platinum spark plugs (every 60K), too. Lastly, if you have any oil leaks from the back. the rear Separator Plate is likely the cause as Subaru switched to a plastic cover (switched back to metal in '00?) that's not so great. The replacement kit includes a metal cover and screws/bolts. But this requires pulling the engine (@ least I do) and is a much bigger job than the T-belt.

No. The EJ25D ECU runs the EJ22E just fine.

Welcome. For future reference, usually better to start your own thread vs. 'hijack' an exisiting one, that is 6 years old. Although I can see where this thread's title 'Part Interchange' may seem similiar, it sounds like you want to upgrade yours? If you're coming from another platform - Jeep, Toyota, etc - explain what you're trying to do? If not, What's your End Game (Goal)? Some want to Lift it up, others want to 'slam' it down, etc.

Ensure the '95-'98 Intake Manifold/IM has the EGR and use this EGR mod if you don't want the CEL on. tangent> you could use the wiring harness, throttle body, cam and crank sensors, knock sensor, coil pack etc. from the EJ25D to make the older IM work, but I've not done it, and may be more trouble than it's worth.

There was the Subaru-dealer-installed 'alarm' system that used the same remotes as the keyless entry: https://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html#code alarm But it doesn't 'auto lock' on my '98 Foz, so yours may be aftermarket? Also, there might still be (I keep forgetting to check mine), the old school OBD1 Black connectors under the dash: http://legacycentral.org/library/literature/codes.htm Those might help, too. Not to be confused w/the Green connectors used to run diagnostics on the sensors/relays, etc. And I'd check your OBD2 reader on another car to ensure it's working....I had one die on me...but it was the $20 Wallymart version.

.02 incoming: '95-'98 2.2 IM's with EGR (should be all 2.2 from AT-equipped cars) to match '98 Forester ECU, double check the coil pack AND the knock sensor connectors. The KS connector can be easily swapped - if you have it. There's also some vacuum line changes in there for emissions: Older - Charcoal Canister up front; Newer-in the rear under passenger side. Last ditch option: '92-'94 2.2 IM's (with the red side-feed injectors) with a '95-'98/'99 (OB/LGT/SUS) harness and Throttle Body will work, but you'll throw the EGR code, which won't affect drivability (much) from what @IDOSUBARU and others have stated in the past. I'd just avoid those as they're getting scarce - Based on my last PullnSave yard visit.

and don't forget the ol' Legacy BBS: https://bbs.legacycentral.org/ The WRX x-member bolts in - but read up on shimming it for 'something' I can't recall. Rear axles - Not so sure what you can swap.

Hi, No direct help..... Have you seen this site's Endwrench: This site is probably listed in the Endwrench 'sticky' at the top of this forum. The file titles aren't the most helpful, but maybe it's in one of them. TD

HI and Welcome. To answer: "I think it is going to be basically a EJ253 all the way from 2006-2011" I'd encourge you to get the HG done on any used Subaru engine. FYI: You're bumping an old thread - 7 years old. Better to start a new one. Swap / Interchange info is readily avl. on all the Subaru Forums. And remember that the Impreza, Forester, Legacy and Outback shared almost identical engines for most model years.

You don't state the YEAR of your Foz, but I searched that TZ # and shows a 2005. That MIGHT be what I've heard called Phase 2 Version 2 of the 4EAT, vs. the Phase 2 Vers. 1 in the donor OB. I'd bet the electronics are different, but maybe the parts are interchangeable. Good luck.

One of the 1st Gen Masters, J.C.: https://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/swap/swap.html

If covered, ignore: Check for a dent in the underside of the trans pan. When I 1st started working on Subes, I jacked it up on the pan (newb!), dented it and it broke a wire inside. I drained the ATF (slow process), removed the gazillion bolts, pried off the pan (carefully>evenly not to bend it too much), fixed the broken wire, reinstalled pan (can't recall if I used a gasket or just RTV'd) and was good to go. This was on an older version of your 4EAT, but may be similiar internally.

The USA '02 GT was NOT turbocharged. If you're intending to do a 'swap', there is a lot more to the process than just putting in a different engine. The wiring harness, exhaust, transmsisison, etc. all require major changes, too. There are other Subaru forums that discuss the process. Search on NASIOC, etc. But, yeah, DO NOT BUY a Used Subaru turbo engine.

>>>for now...soon enough you'll be a turbo expert, too. Edit: I'm NOT a turbo expert...just in case that wasn't clear.

I may have missed it above...but that turbo's drain line is directly under there...and a Pain to see, but I'd shine a flashlight on it and maybe use a mirror ( or you phone) to view it from other angles to see if there's any seepage/leakage in that area, too.

The actuator arm doesn't get lubed, in my experience. That C-clip holds it on. You can pull the arm from the actuator to ensure it's pivoting - toward the back of the car. The discoloration is from heat vs. corrosion- usually. Tangent: That nut on the arm can be loosened to allow the mount to be screwed in/out to extend or contract the 'preload' on the WG. Used by some to adjust it, depending on the issue - Refer to a Tuner's recommendation b4 touching it.

One clue? "replace A/F sensor (OEM from Subaru dealer) last year when the light first came on. Ran okay for a few weeks, then misfire codes came back" So, the o2 DID fix it, if only temporarily???? This probably means something to a Mech/Tech expert. - Fuel injectors...check resistance. I don't know what it should be for your year...those are Top-feeds, correct? No, it's not likely that all 4 are bad. Cause of P0172: Faulty fuel injectors leaking fuel into the combustion chamber Faulty spark plugs Faulty manifold absolute pressure sensor (MAP) Faulty throttle position sensor Dirty or clogged air filter Vacuum leak Faulty ECU (or PCM module) Faulty fuel pressure regulator Faulty thermostat (stuck open) Cooling system that’s been retrofitted (ie: thermostat removed, fan running direct, etc.) Restricted or damaged fuel line FWIW: If 'throwing in the towel' means selling for a loss....then how much is it worth to have a Reputable Subaru Shop (not a dealer) check it out? Drop a $200 for a diagnosis>>fix vs. lose $1K or more because the CEL is on? Of course you live in the PNW, so Subaru Central..... peeps probably come up to you on the street with offers...plus the overpriced PandeMarket.

'05 was the last year of the EJ253 (MAF-based) that did not have the i-AVLS heads. I've read that you can use your '05 engine and perhaps block off/disable the i-avls system (w/out it causing a code) but that would take some googl-ing on your part to determine 'how'. Also, not sure if the '05 and/or '06 was DBW yet. You'd need to use the Intake Manifold from the '06, too. And may not matter? But '06 was the 1st year of the immobilizer for all models. Cars101.com is a good reference for some info.

Also, If the OB is 2.5 and not the H6 3.0, they should both be 4.44 FDR I use the http://opposedforces.com/parts/ website, choose the model>year range>specific model info. Choose the 'Train' category and then the Diff (transmission) to view the 'G/R' / gear ratio I'm guessing.

1998 Forester, 5-speed EDIT: Yes, I'd grounded/shorted the unused 'dual-range' transmission wiring. Wiring was cracked open just past where it was taped to the the wiring loom/harness on passenger side of bellhousing. - Working on adding a turbo (which I've done on other Subarus w/out issue) and after I got it all back together and started up, I now have this 'LO' light on the dash panel. I found online that it's for the 'Low Range' , dual-range tranmission available in NON-USA models, which mine most definitely does NOT have. It has the original 5-speed transmission. I'm guessing it's due to re-organizing the 3 main engine harness connectors to make room for the turbo and related items (it's very tight in that area). Or maybe I accidently grounded one of those 'extra'/unused connectors on top of the transmission bell housing....which activated the light??? But sometimes Subaru's ECU/ECM will give a false reading, which actually means something else. If y'all have any feedback. let me know. Thanks and Happy Holidays!

Or try this: https://www.subaruforester.org/threads/at-temp-light-flashing-how-to-read-code.237225/#post-2463841 States 'thru '04' but the Foz has the same Phase 2 4EAT thru '08?