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Hi, Picked up a '97 Legacy L Wagon for cheap to fix the engine. Has a 150K miles. It needs struts and I can buy cheap KYB's on Rockauto or Ebait for the OB, AND I'll be able to run a bigger tire (but just the stock-ish - 205/70R15 or 215/60R16). Will the Legacy Springs on the OB Struts provide any lift? Tangent: I put a 215/60r16 Forester spare on my Legacy and it clears the front and rear lower strut perch, but the back is close - both the top and inside of the tire. Also, I'd usually just buy the complete strut assemblies from the local PullNSave yard, but have had bad luck w/those as they all have a ton of miles.

The '90-'91 NON-turbos were 4.11 FD ratio for the Automatics; '92-'94 were all (including turbo) 3.90 FD ratio, so you 'll need to swap in the rear diff to match. You can swap in a '95-'98 EJ22 Auto trans from a Legacy Brighton L or LS (not the EJ25D-equipped OB, GT, LSI, SUS), and Impreza L, LX, OB sport (not the '98 EJ25D RS) as they're all 4.11, too. The '91 TCU 'should' run it as is. There's a possibility that if you change the TCU you might need the same year cruise control computer (by the passenger's footwell). FWIW, The '90-'94 non-turbo 5-speeds were all 4.11; '91-'94 SS/turbos were 3.90.

FYI...Go here for reference: http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html#code alarm Buy one of the key fobs shown and you 'should' be able to have keyless entry. Likely only find them on Ebait, used. But Amazon might have 'em, too. This was a Subaru Dealer-installed option back in the day. You can see in your pics that the 'module', where the harness connects, is held in place by that tie-strap/zip tie.

This isn't one of those 'cam gear / sprocket' issues - between models/years of the same engine *? Since you stated short block, I'm guessing you re-used your '05 heads, so likely not, but throwing it out there. *(although technically the '05 is an EJ253 and the '03 was EJ251 - but I thought the main difference was the EJ251 is MAP-based vs. the EJ253 is MAF-based?)

Since no one is jumping in....I'll offer my .03 (inflation!). - Any used Subaru Turbo is a gamble. Even if you find a one-owner with meticulous records, I'd be cautious. The EJ255 in the '06-'14 WRX (and related EJ257 in the STi) was never a bullet-proof engine. Add in the turbo, and other turbocharged engine quirks and you're looking at a lot of potential repair$$. And with the current Mark(up)et for used cars you'll pay a premium...even for those that have been (ab)used. Since you're a DIY this may not dissuade you, just make sure you have another DD when the WRX needs some TLC. NASIOC.com is the definitive site with loads of specific info, and probably a 'bazillion' posts on the good vs. bad, too.

Here's what I did - and the link with pics: https://www.rs25.com/threads/1998-2-2l-questions.185798/page-2#post-2968169 Installed on '96 Impreza LX w/an AT trans. Get the following parts: 1. Cruise control module - must match your trans -AT or MT (they are labeled on the module) - the PLUG/connector IS ALREADY THERE and is taped up under the dash just above your left foot. I mounted it to a spot under the dash w/zip ties. 2. Dash CRUISE switch - the PLUG/connector IS ALREADY THERE - just remove the 4 screws on the console piece around the gauges, pop-off the 'blank', plug in the wiring connector and insert the new switch. 3. Brake switch - the cruise brake switch is PLUG/connector IS ALREADY THERE taped just above the brake pedal- just swap switches - Note the threads/adjustment of the existing switch to match the new one...or your brake lights may not work or cruise may not easily disengage. 4. Actuator/Vacuum hose/T-connector/Brackets - under hood connects to throttle cable. PLUG/connector IS ALREADY THERE taped to the harness near the passenger side strut tower. It mounts in the stock location- the Forester brackets worked on my Impreza, too. Use the T-connector to splice into your vac lines on the intake manifold. 5. Steering wheel switch/lever (there is no need to remove the steering wheel!) - 2 star screws to remove to get the airbag off (read up on here about what to do to not set it off - I just removed the Neg battery cable, pumped the brakes a few times), remove the right side of the spring loaded horn actuator, pop-out the blank for the switch to pass thru on the steering wheel, swap the wiring for the switch - uses the same connectors - no splicing necessary, put it back together.... I got all my parts from a '98 Forester and they worked EXCEPT for 2 issues: 1. The cable from the actuator was too short, but it'll still work. 2. The steering wheel switch doesn't work for the Resume or Cancel features, but everything else works. I may try swapping in an 'age-appropriate' Impreza module to see if that fixes it.

This may not help, but I did this (10 years ago) on my '90, too. HOWEVER, mine was turbocharged and the '91-'94 turbo ECU works for both manual and Autos...not sure if that's the case with the NA/non-turbo ECU. LegacyCentral should have that info. I also followed JC's info, did NOT install the inhibitor (?) switch (keeps from starting in gear), and swapped in a manual CC computer. Worked OK when finished.

Using Opposedforces, Looks like Numbchux is correct - again. Scroll down to Gear set-hypoid 3.0 OB: http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b12/type_27/train/differential_transmission/ = 4.11 GT: http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b12/type_4/train/differential_transmission/ = 4.44 But note the Transmission ID / Part Number is different, so YMMV.

The '97-'99 Legacy OB 5-speed will spin more RPMs in 5th. The '96-'99 Legacy GT is an option, but you'd want to double-check its ratios (its FDR is still 4.11) as I don't recall. From what I read recently the '99+ (phase 2) 5-speeds are better??? But I have 260K on my '98 Forester (and some of that has been turbocharged).

The Legacy 6MT must be either a JDM or DownUnder (El Freddo?) option...I've not seen one in the US market. I'd make sure I have a reliable source for it and the DIY install. The '04+ STI 6MT is a much bigger and $$ swap. Otherwise, any 5-speed from a '97-'00 (maybe a couple years newer too) Subaru that was connected to the EJ25x should bolt up, and have the 4.11 to match your rear diff.

The adjuster should tighten up as it's putting pressure directly on the brake shoes, and you'll want the tire in the air PROPERLY + SAFELY SUPPORTED, so it can be turned to find the 'sweet spot' between too much and not enough. As noted, 3-4 clicks is plenty.....and don't be one of those that yanks the living life out of the brake handle lever. :-)

You adjusted the 'star wheels' on the INside of the rear brake drums, Like this?: https://youtu.be/foX-EIqV76s?t=814 You can also pull the center cover around the parking brake and tighten the double-nutted adjuster there, too.

'96 2.5 = DOHC. Kit should be the same for the '96-'99 EJ25D. Yeah...stick with Aisin-based kits. And the Stant or OEM T-stat. Might want to add the oil pump, since you're 'right there' when you do the crankshaft seal. There's an o-ring for the oil pump-where it mates to the block- to replace and you'll want to tighten the large Philips head screws on block-side of the pump, too. Also, loosen the 2 motor mounts (14mm) to lift the engine a bit for access. Makes it easier to replace those NGK (only) platinum spark plugs (every 60K), too. Lastly, if you have any oil leaks from the back. the rear Separator Plate is likely the cause as Subaru switched to a plastic cover (switched back to metal in '00?) that's not so great. The replacement kit includes a metal cover and screws/bolts. But this requires pulling the engine (@ least I do) and is a much bigger job than the T-belt.

No. The EJ25D ECU runs the EJ22E just fine.

Welcome. For future reference, usually better to start your own thread vs. 'hijack' an exisiting one, that is 6 years old. Although I can see where this thread's title 'Part Interchange' may seem similiar, it sounds like you want to upgrade yours? If you're coming from another platform - Jeep, Toyota, etc - explain what you're trying to do? If not, What's your End Game (Goal)? Some want to Lift it up, others want to 'slam' it down, etc.

Ensure the '95-'98 Intake Manifold/IM has the EGR and use this EGR mod if you don't want the CEL on. tangent> you could use the wiring harness, throttle body, cam and crank sensors, knock sensor, coil pack etc. from the EJ25D to make the older IM work, but I've not done it, and may be more trouble than it's worth.

There was the Subaru-dealer-installed 'alarm' system that used the same remotes as the keyless entry: https://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html#code alarm But it doesn't 'auto lock' on my '98 Foz, so yours may be aftermarket? Also, there might still be (I keep forgetting to check mine), the old school OBD1 Black connectors under the dash: http://legacycentral.org/library/literature/codes.htm Those might help, too. Not to be confused w/the Green connectors used to run diagnostics on the sensors/relays, etc. And I'd check your OBD2 reader on another car to ensure it's working....I had one die on me...but it was the $20 Wallymart version.

.02 incoming: '95-'98 2.2 IM's with EGR (should be all 2.2 from AT-equipped cars) to match '98 Forester ECU, double check the coil pack AND the knock sensor connectors. The KS connector can be easily swapped - if you have it. There's also some vacuum line changes in there for emissions: Older - Charcoal Canister up front; Newer-in the rear under passenger side. Last ditch option: '92-'94 2.2 IM's (with the red side-feed injectors) with a '95-'98/'99 (OB/LGT/SUS) harness and Throttle Body will work, but you'll throw the EGR code, which won't affect drivability (much) from what @IDOSUBARU and others have stated in the past. I'd just avoid those as they're getting scarce - Based on my last PullnSave yard visit.

and don't forget the ol' Legacy BBS: https://bbs.legacycentral.org/ The WRX x-member bolts in - but read up on shimming it for 'something' I can't recall. Rear axles - Not so sure what you can swap.

Hi, No direct help..... Have you seen this site's Endwrench: This site is probably listed in the Endwrench 'sticky' at the top of this forum. The file titles aren't the most helpful, but maybe it's in one of them. TD

HI and Welcome. To answer: "I think it is going to be basically a EJ253 all the way from 2006-2011" I'd encourge you to get the HG done on any used Subaru engine. FYI: You're bumping an old thread - 7 years old. Better to start a new one. Swap / Interchange info is readily avl. on all the Subaru Forums. And remember that the Impreza, Forester, Legacy and Outback shared almost identical engines for most model years.

You don't state the YEAR of your Foz, but I searched that TZ # and shows a 2005. That MIGHT be what I've heard called Phase 2 Version 2 of the 4EAT, vs. the Phase 2 Vers. 1 in the donor OB. I'd bet the electronics are different, but maybe the parts are interchangeable. Good luck.

One of the 1st Gen Masters, J.C.: https://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/swap/swap.html

If covered, ignore: Check for a dent in the underside of the trans pan. When I 1st started working on Subes, I jacked it up on the pan (newb!), dented it and it broke a wire inside. I drained the ATF (slow process), removed the gazillion bolts, pried off the pan (carefully>evenly not to bend it too much), fixed the broken wire, reinstalled pan (can't recall if I used a gasket or just RTV'd) and was good to go. This was on an older version of your 4EAT, but may be similiar internally.

The USA '02 GT was NOT turbocharged. If you're intending to do a 'swap', there is a lot more to the process than just putting in a different engine. The wiring harness, exhaust, transmsisison, etc. all require major changes, too. There are other Subaru forums that discuss the process. Search on NASIOC, etc. But, yeah, DO NOT BUY a Used Subaru turbo engine.