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Not quite. The Rear top hats are the older style /bolt pattern- like the '90-'94 legacy. And the rear sway bars differ, from what I've read....but may still fit. And looking @ cars101.com shows the same dimensions for the Legacy L, LS, GT Sedan and for the Wagon. If you look on the KYB site it may spec a different strut for the GT, and springs may be stiffer.

My .02: The 2.2 was likely the Phase 1 from a '95-'98 model which WERE compatible w/the electronics/harness/ecu for the '99 GT and OB which both still had the Phase 1 setup>> EJ25D (but a phase 2 shortblock). One way to tell is if the IACV and the TPS are the earlier style of the '96-'98 2.2/2.5 models. also, the Trans may be one of the 'delayed engagement' versions. Some have been fixed ......search for the THREAD on here. GL, TD

HI, Usually we like to know year/(exact)model to help. This POST ON NASIOC might get you started. If your O2 sensors are old/original that's a common 1st step. GL, Td

Hi, If timing is good, probably rod knock. Those JDM engines aren't any better than US...just usually lower miles. And some importers DO drill/tap the head for US customers, from what I've read/heard. GL, TD

Rattle is a better description...'clicking' is kinda misleading. I'll give this look this weekend. Related Question, plz: Should the slots where the -pad 'ears' fit - be greased? Thanks

Sorry, not sure what you're referring to. But the noise likely started a few weeks after I did the front brake swap Thanks

I wouldn't think so. I'm running WRX 16" wheels and these calipers original fit under the OB's 15". thanks Td

- It gets less and less the firmer I press the pedal. (I forgot this little tidbit in my OP.) Thanks TD

Vehicle: '96 Legacy L AWD w/the larger OB/GT dual-piston calipers/pads/rotors on the front. EDIT 11/1/2016: Replaced the front left CV axle (lifetime warranty on NAPA NEW axle), it appears to be fixed. First NAPA axle I've had fail, IIRC. Symptom: Makes a Clicking >>Rattling noise when 1st starting out each day or after it's been off for a few hours. - Gradually gets less as car / brake(s warm up. >> Goes away after 5 mins of driving. >> Is Less noticeable w/our latest round of hot (for N. ID) 85-90° weather. - Rotation-based - faster speed = faster clicking. - Seems to be from Driver's side. - Does it whether wheels are turned or straight-ahead. - It gets less and less the firmer I press the pedal. Notes: - Both front axles are NEW (not remfgd) , from our local NAPA auto chain, which I've always had good luck. Axles replaced before I swapped the brakes. And it doesn't sound quite like a bad CV noise. - Front tie-rods - inner AND outer, Sway-bars front and rear, replaced in last year - Removed and regreased the caliper slide bolts and it WAS BETTER for about a day. Clue??? - Widened the gap between the rotor and its brake dust shield. - No difference - Car's brakes seem to work normally. No pulling to one side or the other. - Calipers are 'unknown' condition. Extra set I had from 'who knows what' project. - Pad and rotors are new when I installed the calipers. Suggestions b4 I have the local shop acce$$ my wallet to diagnose? thanks EDIT: Looking @ the 'rusty ring' around the edge of the brake rotor (disk)....thinking it may be hitting. I will grind it down and see.>>>no change.

Hi, No offense, but you missed the point on the 2.5 SOHC heads....Will not work (easily) w/your 2.2 original setup. '99+ SoHC 2.2 or 2.5 is not compatible; you'll need a matching IM, its wiring harness, etc. etc. Been covered a lot on here and elsewhere. Please Google. CPU=ECU=PCM, etc. Won't plug in. You'd have to do a mostly complete wiring harness swap. And '97 2.2 pistons are not Phase 2 (common mistake), It was just a mild change in piston design to boost CR. Phase 2 started in '99 w/the extra mounting points where the engine/Trans bolt together. Sorry, I don't know if pistons will fit....but a Google search should tell you.

Hi, Just a clarification that you can't put the '99 2.5 SOHC LONGblock in your '96 ' as is'. Yours is a Phase 1; the '99 SOHC is a Phase 2....two different versions, albeit related. Your Phase 1 SOHC Intake Manifold will not fit the Phase 2 SOHC IM. As noted by the 'frankenmotor' comment, you CAN use the 2.5 shortblock w/your 2.2 heads. Would be a nice HIGH CR engine, provided you run Premium. GL, TD

.02 = Buy it. Worst case w/the alignment is if a shop CAN'T align it for some reason, and you'd need to go back to stock. I've put different struts on different Subies and always been able to align, so odds are in your favor. This will not be a quick/fast/powerful OB, so patience may be needed (by you and your fellow freeway onramp drivers)....depends on what you're used to, I'd guess. Td

Search NASIOC.com...More info over there as they're (mostly) dedicated to the Impreza WRX/STi. Good EJ207 info.

Yes...Harness matches heads + intake manifold. Yes, you could go 2.5 heads, too. Note that ALL the USDM '04+ EJ255/7 heads have @ least single AVCS, if the Stinger supports it, or you can block off the oil ports and run it NON-AVCS. I'm not knowledgeable about the '02+ franken CR's. But NASIOC will have it somewhere, and Outfront should know, too. Note that the Subaru US models all have low 8.0:1 (EJ205 WRX), 8.2:1 (EJ257 STI), 8.4:1 (EJ255 Forester/OB XT, Baja, '06+ WRX). So, 9:1 is doable, but you'll want 93+ Octane and again...TUNED. Most shoot for a lower CR and More Boost w/a larger turbo (18G+). I'm not sure what your 'buggy would like - more off the line (no lag) or more up top (spin to win!).

Dustin, I'm not a big fan of used Subie turbo engines. The EJ205 is known for spinning its bearings & blowing HG.....BUT it really depends on how rough its life has been, too. If you can't get a history lesson, Do NOT Buy. And you MUST get a compression and leak down test done, or you're really taking a risk. From what I've read on NASIOC.com, the JDM motors ARE a gamble. Yes you can (usually) return them but what a hassle.....but they're usually cheap. If you do look @ the JDM's be cautious about year as the JDM motors got the AVCS (adjustable Camshafts) before we did, as well as the DBW (drive by wire). Most of which can be swapped w/USA (USDM) versions w/out those upgrades, but that's another 'gotcha'. You can buy a NEW shortblock for <$2K, and maybe find a set of heads for $500? Obviously, you'll need to source all the other parts, so it may be way over budget, but that's my suggestion. GL< TD P.s. An option to consider is using your 2.2 block w/the WRX heads. I'd consider the 2.2 (assuming it's the older '90-'96 version) just as reliable as the 2.0. The WRX has coated, but not forged pistons. 200hp/torque @the wheels would be a safe, conservative goal w/the stock WRX components. The TUNE is equally important to the build.

Hi, Check out POST to ensure you got all the bolts/nuts separated. Yours is the Phase 2 ('99+), if unclear. In my experience, I've had a few that had separation anxiety. I believe there is a lip along the bellhousing that can be used to pry against. I'd not recommend the chisel as it might crack the housing. Also, I usually support the trans w/a wide piece of wood (don't dent the pan!) to lift it up along w/the engine lift.....so they don't bind while trying to separate. Lift just enough that the engine mount studs clear the cross member. The two bottom studs stay intact...@ least when I pull the engine. Don't damage the threads.... The Pros will certainly chime in w/better ideas. edit: as noted below make sure the TC is disconnected and STAYS w/the trans. READ UP on 'seating the TC' on here/online as it's important. There are 4 bolts that must be removed from the TC where it connects to the flex plate. The flex plate stays w/the engine. They are a PITA to get to and are not well-suited for any standard wrenches/sockets. I remove the Thottle Body for access and use a bolt extractor so I don't round 'em off and create even more grief.

This is a GREAT question......because it's the 'bulletproof' 2.2 and low mileage...but it's an EJxxx engine. I'll be interested to hear others' opinions. I do (most of) my own Subaru repairs and have another car I can drive if needed, so I'd probably just run it as is. If it were the 2.5 I'd definitely change the HG, as they're likely due in the next 10K anyway. :-( I can't advise on the 'white powder'. I'm only a fan of the current OEM HG, so no experience w/the BA kits. FWIW, I just had new rings put in my '96 2.2 due to some smoke @ startup - 128K miles. The Subie tech found a seized/stuck oil ring (likely due to infrequent LOF's - the PO had limited maint. records), which explains the smoke, but otherwise I was told the engine looked clean. P.s. If you have/can get the VIN from the original Legacy you can do a Carfax and if lucky there may be service history. Autocheck may also have it but less likely.

Not sure Where it is, but sounds like a fusible link? Probably where MT Tom pointed to. GL, TD

Yes, I was. So must be the other sensor? Other than the TCU/TCM I don't know what else is involved. GL, TD

HI - and welcome to the USMB, Did you verify the 'original key' wouldn't work either? If it's also dead, I'd just call another dealer (or 3) and verify the facts. I'd also look online/Ebay to see if you can buy the parts there. BTW (and for others' reference), most any Subaru parts department can cut you a key from the VIN, in case your dupe was done elsewhere. That's what I did for my '04 FXT and '02 WRX when I upgraded their separate key + fob = all-in-one keyfob.

HI, MUST be bolted down. Don't go back to that mechanic, IMHO. The orientation probably matters, but I don't know for sure. Should be lots-o-pics online showing it. Also, if the CEL doesn't go off/Code go away, there may be a break in the wiring to the KS>.>>>>common enough. Do a search on KS WIre repair and some (me included) have used MIC (rophone) cable as a suitable replacement. TD

Hi, Suggest sending a PM my way for faster response. Can't see the pic @ work, but if the IAC has a hose that goes to the air intake (and is not a coolant line), that should work. I have no experience w/the EJ18. Edit: I don't see a hose off the IAC, but that 1.8 IAC is very different than the 2.2/2.5's. But all you need is a hose that runs into the intake to the throttle body, so you could 'make one' that plugs into it. Just don't use the PCV or Breather as you'll be blowing blue smoke out the exhaust. GL, TD

Post on LC site. (8 years ago!)...doesn't 'help' much other than to confirm your experience. I'd go w/the hi-temp gasket maker, or you can take a template to a Auto parts or exhaust shop and see if they have an exhaust gasket that matches? Also, found this possible option but it's for NON-USA turbos: 14415aa010 Side-note: There were VF8, 10, 12, etc used around the world on the old EJ20G engines, which had the 90° inlet. The VF11 was only used on the EJ22T in the US and Canada. The '91-'94 Legacy turbos in the US/Canada were the only ones that didn't have an intercooler, so it had the unique 'clocked' turbo OUTlet direct to the throttle body. The # used for the VF series did NOT note size; it was related to age. The VF8 was OLDER but BIGGER/Flowed more than the VF11. Just like the VF39>43>48>? used on the STi since 2004+.

Hi, Did you swap the intake manifolds (IM)? The '95 EJ18 'should' be the last of the OBD1 and '96 is the 1st full year of OBD2, so thinking maybe something got 'missed in translation'? :-) Can't see pics @ work..so no help there. TD

HI, What year is your "2.2 1st gen" ? Is this the '90-'94 or all the '90-'98 models or? Are you in Europe, per your Sig? If so, may not be the same as US. For US cars, Most 2.2's w/5-speeds from '95-'99 did NOT have EGR; ALL 2.2 Autos and 2.5's did. You'll get a CEL if EGR is missing. To add to Larry's comments above, reseal the rear separator plate and leave the MAIN seal alone if not leaking. TD