wtdash

This may point to a leaky fueil injector. I'd also replace the CTS, if not already done...they can show/test 'good' but be borderline and cause issues.

@ the risk....of over-simplifying, but will concur w/LMDEW. On both my '04 Forester and '96 Legacy, w/no working AC, I just replaced the Orings (auto parts store) where they connect to the compressor and recharged 'em w/refrig. Both work(ed) well and was less than $30. GL, Td

Car-part.com and Ebay. ....and I'd guess that any FWD TCU / TCM from '90-'96 might work (yes, even from an '95/'96 OBD2 car), since the AWD TCU's supposedly interchange as well. GL, Td Reference: Trouble Code Item 11 Duty solenoid A 12 Duty solenoid B 13 Shift solenoid 3 14 Shift solenoid 2 15 Shift solenoid 1 21 ATF temp sensor 22 Atmospheric sensor 23 Engine revolution signal 24 Duty solenoid C 25 Engine torque control signal 31 Throttle sensor 32 Vehicle speed sensor 1 33 Vehicle speed sensor 2

Listed elsewhere on the Web, too: '90-'91 NON-turbo/NA both 4eAT and 5-speed are 4.11. '92-'94 NA 4EAT are 3.90; 5-speed 4.11 '91-'94 Turbo 4EAT and 5-speed are ALL 3.90 (including the One-year ONLY '91 w/the rear VLSD) - Sedans (SS) and Touring Wagons (TW). I'd put the FWD fuse in until you can swap the rear diff. And you can use one from a '95-'99 Legacy, Impreza 2.2 4EAT or 2.5 5-speed (both are 4.11, and none had VLSD's), BUT the rear diff's pinion flange bolt pattern changed in '95-ish. You'll want a Puller to remove the flange - on their tight. Driveline is too long to swap, but do some research as you 'might' be able to use the front portion of the '91 w/the rear portion of a '95+ to make it fit. GL, Td

Is it overheating? If not, then try WW's suggestion...but one good overheat and the block can be scrap.....about 5K miles AFTER you do those HG's. This is my recommendation. I wouldn't install any used 2.5 w/out doing the HG and Tbelt, etc. b4 install.

HI, For future reference, it's good practice to keep all related posts in the same Thread so anyone that's replied gets notified of new posts. If you're doing this on a 'smart' phone, I've had trouble Adding/editing to existing threads. If you've not figured this out, then perhaps the cable is wrong or your install is wrong. I'd need to see a pic of what isn't working to understand it. GL, Td

Hi, Assuming you have a '90-'94 Legacy or '92-'94 Impreza - w/the Manual button. Could be the cable, but likely the TAB @ the end of the cable gear on the Trans side broke off. A bad VSS (vehicle speed sensor) will cause the car to go into 'limp' mode, IIRC - as it 'reports' to the ECU. Yours won't have the electrical connector (unless it's '95+) but the part that screws inis the same: But if pulling the FWD fuse helped it could also be a bad front diff, bad CV, or ? GL, TD

+1 Pic shows the NON-scooped hood, so should be EJ251 (?). Yes the heads can be pulled w/the engine installed. As noted, I also don't recommend it and would pull it to do the complete reseal. Although the '99+ engines have 4 extra bolts to get it separted from the trans - two of which are no fun (CV's in the way). - Cams - Crank - Oil pump - Rear Main (not common) - Rear Separator (more common) - Oil sensor - ETC. Tbelt, WP, Pulleys, T-stat unless brand new.

^+1 I'd also do some more research on the HG to use. I 'think' the STI EJ257 HG is recommended. Too thin and you may have piston<>valve issues?

TB is usually in the center diff. The FWD fuse will help if the Duty C is working. If it does nothing then yours may be electrical. Does the AT temp light flash @ you on key ON>>Start-up. Check the codes...on here/'Net The more you drive it the more you risk messing up your AWD. You can try replacing ALL your ATF - Drain/Fill/Drive/Repeat 3 times....gets most of the old stuff out.....assuming you've check the fluid level already.

+1 on the above. Did you swap out the turbo inlet hose? - they get old and crack @ the turbo's inlet...and are PITA to replace w/out pulling the IM.

And you get the full B-to-B warranty, which is about up on the '14. cheapest hatch w/CVT attached. Impreza 1.49%x24-36-48 mos, 1.90%x60-63-72 mos (NW USA)

^+1 And listen for noise @ front of engine. the H6 has the chain but the chain guides do wear (out) and start to 'rattle' (google it). It's not the 'death knell' of rod knock, and the car may run for 10's of thousands of miles just fine, but personally...I don't like noises. And yeah...$2750 is a steal - unless its middle name is 'Rusty'.

Swapping the ECU takes about 15 minutes...be careful removing the passenger side sill cover as its tabs are delicate, otherwise it's an easy swap. GL

http://www.freecheapvin.x10.mx/ Paypal $1.50. It's an Autocheck -not the Carfax. But will tell you most of the necessary info. Carfax sometimes includes Maintenance info if prior owners went to dealer/shop that reports it to Carfax.

May help: http://www.cars101.com/outback_archive98-99.html#1999colors

Drive it as is....but the tranfer clutches will continue to get worse, and on my car also a '90 - the AWD had a delayed engagement. I ended up doing the 4WD Diff lock mode to compensate 'til I fixed it. Yes. 24 sounds correct.

I'm confused.....in your 1st Post: " If all wheel drive is disabled the binding goes away" How did you disable it? That's what the FWD fuse does (on the older Subies @ least). Td

...But they will bolt in.....it likely has a power driver's seat, so you'll have to wire it in. I tapped a 12V right under the seat...but on a '96 Legacy.

Hi, First -Find out if it's sealed or not, and Get it Serviced. Do it yourself or a shop. IT MAY just be worn fluid. I've been 'corrected' on this b4 but I think if the FWD fuse 'fixes it' (eliminates the TB) that means it's 'mechanical' and the clutches are the issues; if the fuse has no effect than it's 'electrical' and the Duty C IS the problem as it's not being turned On/Off??

clogged Catalytic Converter?

Hi, That cable specifically states it may NOT work w/CAN bus cars, so wouldn't count on it. Keep looking...and do a search on RS25.com and NASiOC.com as they are Impreza-specifc sites...although all Subarus went to CAN bus about the same time. Look up Tactrix cables, too. GL, TD

HI, Yes, the ATF is a PITA to check. A couple of hints: Ensure the car is warmed up, per the Owner's Manual (assume it was in the glove box), on level ground, and it only takes a Pint to go from the Low to Full on the dipstick. Also, know that roughly HALF the fluid is in Trans and other Half is in the TC. There are TWO types of Codes stored - Active/Existing and Historical/Previous, which is why you get blinks sometimes not always - on startup. Please re-read the instructions in that link and you'll see how to check both. ATF compatible with DEXRON VI/MERCON LV per this LINK: DEXRON® VI DEXRON® III (and II) DEXRON® III (H) DEXRON® IIE Hyundai SP-IV Toyota WS Mercedes 7 Speed Nissan Matic S JASO 1A

No EJ20's in any USA subaru 'cept for the 'EJ205' DOHC turbo in the '02-'05 WRX.

^+1 If power isn't an issue - hauling/towing/3 linemen @ your dinner table - the 2.2 will do. Otherwise, R&R that 2.5 and hope for the best. As stated, there are MANY (including me) that have replaced the HG only to have a rod pop out of the block shortly thereafter due to failed rod bearings. Or throw in the '95 EJ22 - if it's from an Auto trans it'll have the EGR you need; if not, you'll need @ least an IM w/EGR from a '95-'98 SOHC 2.2 and do that 'Non-EGR mod' on here. Keep the 2.5's flexplate if the Fozzie is an AT, and then sell that ticking time-bomb (aka EJ25D) as is for $300-500? They're getting rarer and someone may want it. Td