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^+1 I'd also do some more research on the HG to use. I 'think' the STI EJ257 HG is recommended. Too thin and you may have piston<>valve issues?

TB is usually in the center diff. The FWD fuse will help if the Duty C is working. If it does nothing then yours may be electrical. Does the AT temp light flash @ you on key ON>>Start-up. Check the codes...on here/'Net The more you drive it the more you risk messing up your AWD. You can try replacing ALL your ATF - Drain/Fill/Drive/Repeat 3 times....gets most of the old stuff out.....assuming you've check the fluid level already.

+1 on the above. Did you swap out the turbo inlet hose? - they get old and crack @ the turbo's inlet...and are PITA to replace w/out pulling the IM.

And you get the full B-to-B warranty, which is about up on the '14. cheapest hatch w/CVT attached. Impreza 1.49%x24-36-48 mos, 1.90%x60-63-72 mos (NW USA)

^+1 And listen for noise @ front of engine. the H6 has the chain but the chain guides do wear (out) and start to 'rattle' (google it). It's not the 'death knell' of rod knock, and the car may run for 10's of thousands of miles just fine, but personally...I don't like noises. And yeah...$2750 is a steal - unless its middle name is 'Rusty'.

Swapping the ECU takes about 15 minutes...be careful removing the passenger side sill cover as its tabs are delicate, otherwise it's an easy swap. GL

http://www.freecheapvin.x10.mx/ Paypal $1.50. It's an Autocheck -not the Carfax. But will tell you most of the necessary info. Carfax sometimes includes Maintenance info if prior owners went to dealer/shop that reports it to Carfax.

May help: http://www.cars101.com/outback_archive98-99.html#1999colors

Drive it as is....but the tranfer clutches will continue to get worse, and on my car also a '90 - the AWD had a delayed engagement. I ended up doing the 4WD Diff lock mode to compensate 'til I fixed it. Yes. 24 sounds correct.

I'm confused.....in your 1st Post: " If all wheel drive is disabled the binding goes away" How did you disable it? That's what the FWD fuse does (on the older Subies @ least). Td

...But they will bolt in.....it likely has a power driver's seat, so you'll have to wire it in. I tapped a 12V right under the seat...but on a '96 Legacy.

Hi, First -Find out if it's sealed or not, and Get it Serviced. Do it yourself or a shop. IT MAY just be worn fluid. I've been 'corrected' on this b4 but I think if the FWD fuse 'fixes it' (eliminates the TB) that means it's 'mechanical' and the clutches are the issues; if the fuse has no effect than it's 'electrical' and the Duty C IS the problem as it's not being turned On/Off??

clogged Catalytic Converter?

Hi, That cable specifically states it may NOT work w/CAN bus cars, so wouldn't count on it. Keep looking...and do a search on RS25.com and NASiOC.com as they are Impreza-specifc sites...although all Subarus went to CAN bus about the same time. Look up Tactrix cables, too. GL, TD

HI, Yes, the ATF is a PITA to check. A couple of hints: Ensure the car is warmed up, per the Owner's Manual (assume it was in the glove box), on level ground, and it only takes a Pint to go from the Low to Full on the dipstick. Also, know that roughly HALF the fluid is in Trans and other Half is in the TC. There are TWO types of Codes stored - Active/Existing and Historical/Previous, which is why you get blinks sometimes not always - on startup. Please re-read the instructions in that link and you'll see how to check both. ATF compatible with DEXRON VI/MERCON LV per this LINK: DEXRON® VI DEXRON® III (and II) DEXRON® III (H) DEXRON® IIE Hyundai SP-IV Toyota WS Mercedes 7 Speed Nissan Matic S JASO 1A

No EJ20's in any USA subaru 'cept for the 'EJ205' DOHC turbo in the '02-'05 WRX.

^+1 If power isn't an issue - hauling/towing/3 linemen @ your dinner table - the 2.2 will do. Otherwise, R&R that 2.5 and hope for the best. As stated, there are MANY (including me) that have replaced the HG only to have a rod pop out of the block shortly thereafter due to failed rod bearings. Or throw in the '95 EJ22 - if it's from an Auto trans it'll have the EGR you need; if not, you'll need @ least an IM w/EGR from a '95-'98 SOHC 2.2 and do that 'Non-EGR mod' on here. Keep the 2.5's flexplate if the Fozzie is an AT, and then sell that ticking time-bomb (aka EJ25D) as is for $300-500? They're getting rarer and someone may want it. Td

^ Yes...which is why I posted the attachment of the Inlet/Outlet lines from the Trans. I don't want to deal w/a fan/T-stat, and I think/hope the add-on cooler will enough, but probably should do another ATF change w/Synthetic. I'd still like to find another 2.5 4EAT w/the 4.44 FD ratio as a backup...as I'll probably turn up the boost b4 too long. And No 5-speed swaps....been there, done that. Thanks

Installed a Hayden 401 (402 is too long/wide) AT trans cooler inline w/the stock cooler. According to the attached from the FSM the UPPER attachment on the radiator is the RETURN to trans....makes no sense that the fluid flows UP and out.....?

Hi, What engine/year is in your 'new outback'? Since you've had Turbo'd Subarus you probably have a reference point for whether the NA is Enuff. This might be useful: http://www.cars101.com/baja.html Also, I-Active valves (VVL intake side) on 06+ were avl., but not noted on the link above - so not sure Baja's got those or not....bumped hp/torque a bit. Don't take this as arguing w/subarubrat's comments, as I'm no mechanic. But I'd double-check on the valve adjustments (screw-type on the SOHC; Buckets on the DOHC turbos, IIRC???), as I thought only the early '90's 2.2 and 2.5 have the HLA's that 'auto-adjust'. Also, I'm not a fan of Subaru's turbo'd EJ205/EJ255/EJ257 series of engines>>>>Unless you get a low mile, 'granny-driven', one-owner, maintenance history from Day One....seen too many broken ringlands, blown turbos, and more....but I'm inferring you knew that.

Hi, I'm w/LT - The lack of a MAP is going to likely cause 'limp' mode or @ least 'impaired function'. The '95 2.2 engine is very similar to the '90-'94 used in the OBD1 cars - other than the different TPS, EGR - on the Automatics, engine harness, and maybe a couple other things. But the '95 ECU is OBD2 and more 'picky'. ....and before you ask, the ECU and wiring harness connectors are different, so you can't easily swap it in....although on your buggy it may not be near as tough. This LINK is for the '90-'94 ECU codes and there is a code 45 for the 'Atmos. Sensor', which may be the MAP?? It shows that it 'Sets sensor to 760 mmHg' - I'm not sure what that is, but it sounds like a 'limp/fail-safe' mode. So, either OBD1 or 2 you need the MAP, IMHO. GL, TD

HI, I'd suggest that Yes that door light can drain the battery. The light on the dash is triggered by that door's sensor. You should be able to wire that sensor so the LIGHT IS OFF all the time...but w/out seeing it I can't tell you how. I'd think this would be easier than pulling the dash cluster and removing the corresponding bulb. If you can't close the door, then I'm guessing the door is already damaged, so the light working or not isn't an issue....I'd be more concerned if it can/not be locked. Edit: There's likely a fuse that controls the 'door ajar' lights, but it may also control something you WANT to work....look on the fuse cover or in the Owner's Manual. GL, TD

Hmmmm, see attached from my step-son's '00 OB. Can't tell where it goes, but doesn't look to link into the PCV, as you can see the PCV and it appears to just go from block>>TB. I can't get to opposedforces.com @ work...but it 'should' show it, too.

+1 for the PCV -should be a another port on the PCV 'T' connector from the block to the IM that goes there. Like this post? And if that pic was about 2 feet farther back.....we could see the PCV. What year?

Hi, To clarify - those are 215/60R-16 not 265, I'd guess. They'll fit under the '96-'99 OB struts, which is my setup, too. You'll notice less off-the-line speed and passing...as you've effectively dropped your FD ratio. Your speedo will also be off about 7%....so it'll show 70mph, but you'll be @ almost 75mph actual.......be advised. GL, TD