wtdash

Yeah....it'd be if that site goes offline. I can't get to it from work, due to our Firewall, but works from phone and home. If I had 'mad skilz' w/the 'puter I'd grab the whole site for posterity. I had to put in opposedforces.com for it to come up; NO WWW. prefix.

^+1 on axles. For whatever reason the '05-09 seem to wear out axles about 100K. Yours may be due or were done w/cheap replacements. soob-experienced mechanic = Subaru experienced mechanic. Many on here, myself included, prefer a seasoned/trained/etc Subaru mech/tech to work on our cars. Subarus aren't hard to work on, but to save time on diagnostics - and return trips for repairs - you'll be ahead of the game. And not necessarily a dealer, but an independent (indie) shop. And PLEASE change your OIL often - every 3K miles, make sure the filter screens on the oil lines to the heads and turbo are removed, use the best Top Tier fuel w/the 92 Octane (or highest avl. in UT), and do some more research on keeping that turbo engine (EJ255) healthy. If the turbo starts to make noises, do NOT wait to replace it (VF40 model). The turbo in yours doesn't have the best reputation for longevity and when it starts to fail it can throw its broken parts into the engine. - not good. Td

- Trans, Seats, suspension, wheels/tires, should be good. - I don't know about the dash or Back doors - unlikely as body style changed in '03. - I'd also wonder if the driveline/shaft will fit....but probably as I don't think the wheelbase changed (much). Use the '00 or '98. ( you refer to both years??)

Learn something new every day! Thanks

No...see the pics attached in 1st post. I have the stock '96 EJ22e IM installed - w/the EGR valve. I have the one-way valve installed on this and is working fine - @ 5psi. "...with BOOST going..."? or what is 'host'.

Per cars101.com, 2013 was still the 4EAT - No CVT>>2014. From the 2013 OM - section 9-18:

Yes.........our buddies on LegacyCentral.org have a good thread on it: http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=44555 Td

I see you're in Canda - Nova Scotia?- and pay more than us, but Imprezas start @ $18K new down here in the US....so just for grins, I'd compare this used Impreza to their cheapest new Impreza, if @ a Subaru dealership. Also, the Kelley Blue Book I use in the US has 3 values for their online pricing - Trade-In, Private Party (no dealers), Retail (used or new dealership). I'd work from the Private Party price.

FYI - there are different ways to replace the axle, but you must gain clearance by disconnecting the ball-joint, top strut bolt, or maybe another way. I always remove the TOP 'camber' strut bolt (loosen the bottom) and to AVOID needing an alignment I always mark its location PRIOR to removing it, and just put it back where it was. It's always been close enough to not mess up the alignment. And don't use too small of a punch to remove the roll pin on the inner part of the CV...it'll stick in the hole and you'll be....upset. GL, td

It's been a few years...but IIRC: - Drain the fluid, Drop the exhaust, loosen the pitchstop, and engine mount nuts (so engine can move w/the trans), remove the trans crossmember (or maybe just its bolts to the body) while supporting the trans w/a jack, tilt the trans down, remove the housing bolts, CAREFUL w/the parking pawl - it'll try to escape...for starters. I'd also recommend replacing the Duty C solenoid while you're in there - $100 new OEM (?), a new gasket for the housing and make sure the transfer clutches aren't worn....look up torque bind and you can see pics, if not familiar. GL, TD

Sir, Please get yourself a code reader, and help us help you. :-) congrats on the new ride! Td

Under the dash - usually near driver's right knee- are two green connectors, when plugged together - Key in ON, Engine OFF position- it causes all relays, sensors, rad fans, etc. to cycle. I would 'think' it'd cycle the Fuel Pump Relay too. Other than checking the wiring from the FP - under rear seat ? - I don't have anything else. GL, Td

^ It fixed my '98 and it was free. Thanks

FWD fuse location is shown on page 12-8 - under Specifications. site for downloads: https://carmanuals2.com/brand/subaru

You're lucky - P**ker Subaru in N. ID charges MORE than retail....anything over $20 is cheaper to order from Jason Douglas and have shipped.

+111

If you scroll down this LINK (be aware its PG-13 because of the background pics used), past the cluster info, it'll show the speedo sensor - VSS- IN THE TRANS that is not too hard to replace. I'd pull it out and check the blade on the end - they break. GL, Td

Tulsa can get HOT and that can shorten a battery's life, but depends on how much time it's exposed to the heat. Get it tested @ shop, as they can give you a fair idea of its current state.....or just replace so you don't have to worry!:-) Td

The clutch is adjustable right above the gas pedal under the dash. I'd try that b4 anything else. TD

Hi, Did you verify nothing was stolen from your car? Thieves will leave the door ajar....from my experience. :-( And if started up OK your battery is strong....but you could check it by seeing how 'closed' the door needs to be to turn off the interior light and the dash 'door ajar' light. Either way, it didn't hurt anything. My only concern would be if you drive the car sparingly or have a <5 minute commute the battery may not get a chance to fully recover. TD

+100 The 2.5 heads will LOwer your compression ratio, which will mean less power, esp. off idle......Although the DOHC heads do flow better up top. Some do this combo if they have 'aspirations' to add a turbo. Usual recommendation is to use a headgasket that matches the block as the cylinder bore needs to match. But as the 2.5 heads may have different ports for the oil/coolant flow, you may need a custom Cometic ($100 + ). And there is a fair bit of info out there about this combo as it's been used as a replacement in the early Legacy turbo (SS and TW) - see http://bbs.legacycentral.org/index.php, and in the Impreza - see RS25.com. There's also the DOHC Tbelt to deal with, you'll need a DUAL-port exhaust manifold/header, the valves are a shim-over-bucket which are a PITA to adjust, and the spark plugs are hard to reach....so yeah, find the best solution from the previous posted options and git 'er done. GL, TD

^+1 Also, If it's moving while in Park I can think of 2 other options: 1. Parking pawl INside the rear of the trans is broken....not an easy fix (for most) and probably more than the car's worth. 2. One of the front CV axles is broken. When it happened on my '96, the car wouldn't go over 35mph, and would roll away w/out the parking brake on. Test it by putting in gear, w/foot on brake and have someone look to see if the axle is spinning on either side of the transmission....as the brakes will keep the tire-side from spinning. GL, TD

Go to opposedforces.com and drill down to your year/model and look under Train>>Differntial (trans) for some info. XS is 4.44 FD ratio and should be the same for '03-'08...but the site shows a different p/n for the '03-'04 model. The XS And use car-parts.com for interchange. The '04-'05 5-speeds used a 4.44 too, IIRC. The OB XT had a 4.44, too...not 100% sure on the years. The XS and XT models have rear axle limited slip differential...not on the X. Td

'95-'98 EJ22/2.2, and '96-'98 2.2 REQUIRES a Single-port header / exhaust manifold / y-pipe. Bolts up just like the dual-port to the rest of the exhaust.

Hi, I can't help much other than to warn you that if you drive this on the highway, the 4.44 may get old - if it's going to be a DD. I've read- somewhere>Legacy Central?< that the RPM's were near 4K @ 60 MPH - in 5th. Seems too high, but might want to do more research. Also, be aware that Subaru changed the bolt pattern of the rear pinion flange of the rear diff in the mid-90's, which hopefully you're getting one newer, but I don't know if that's the only time it changed. I'd guess (!) the drive shaft will work, as Subaru's 5-speeds and matching rear diffs are the same size - end-to-end. And most of the pre-2006 (?) Subaru turbos had a PULL clutch vs. the PUSH used on NA versions....so you'll need a matching FW, etc. 300HP from 12 psi...seems ambitious....what's your setup? TD