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Hi, You need to get your reSearch hat on- - Your leaks probably don't need a rebuild - but rather new (re)seals. Covered on here and other Subie sites. - Fuel smell could be a leaky injector....although they may be new-er, they may not be installed correctly. - Go look on RS25.com for adding a turbo.... FYI - Usually cheaper to find a lower-mileage 2.2 than rebuild it.... Remember to read the Stickies @ the top of most Forums. GL, TD

Plan on replacing the turbo inlet hose w/an aftermarket Silicone model - as I'd be VERY surprised if it's not already cracked....all that heat wears 'em out. Find 'em used (along w/a turbo) on NaSIOC and read up on install as the after market - not stock version - CAN be installed w/out removing the intake manifold - I've done it. TD

HI, 3 thoughts: 1: Do you get the steady blink when checking codes to verify the ECU diagnostics IS working? And you looked for both active and historical codes? 2. MAF sensors tend to fail on these....but usually it's a random failure that won't cause your 'no-start' condition. The car will die, but usually start right back up....but another used MAF may be worth a shot, if readily avl. (Every USA Subaru except the SVX and '91-'94 turbos used the same green label MAF from '92-'98-ish.) 3. Battery / Alternator condition? New and/or known good? Also, the fuel gauges are known to be erratic on the older Subies. My '96 is less than accurate below a 1/2 a tank, due to the sensors sensitivity (one on left and right) wearing out, I believe. Did you search the Legacy Central site, too? GL, TD

Hi, Just to clarify....'96-'99 Legacy OB/GT (2.5), '95-'98 Legacy L/Brighton (2.2), '95(2.2 only)-'98 Impeza, '98 Forester. You'll need your DUAL port exhaust y-pipe off the heads (header), but it'll bolt up to any of the other exhausts. The '99 Legacy L, and Impreza had a Phase 2, 2.2 and are not (easily) compatible w/your engine electronically. You could put it in the earlier models, but you'll need use the intake manifold that matches the car. And '95 Autos were EGR-equipped, which is a GOOD thing as it'll work in cars with or w/out EGR. There are some gotchas so keep searching to find more info. Your brother should know what you'll need to add to your engine to use it w/a 5-speed (FW, pilot bearing, etc.). GL, TD

I believe the difference in Cam/Crank sensors is the older style were all one piece - sensor+wire/harness+plug? Newer style had a plug connector on the sensor....I don't know if they're interchangeable.....Edit...No..see below. And if the '90 has a KS it's likely cracked so reuse the Forester's. It should plug in to the '98 intake's harness (you got one w/the wiring harness attached? If not, I'm fairly sure the Forester's will work).

EGR - link...non-issue, unless your '98 intake doesn't have it either....then you'll have a CEL.

HI, Hard time? Where are you looking?...see Ebay. Looks like many different mfg. used this model, but you'll need to look into which ones also work on Subies. Also, have you confirmed you have the Keyless module under the dash? They weren't standard in '96, AFAIK....'97+, I believe. GL, TD

Throwing this out there..... there are differences between the '98 and '01, due the mild face-lift in '01: From cars101.com: "The 2001 model was introduced early, in February 2000. The front end, rear end, dashboard, lower body cladding was all mildly redesigned, with new colors, cloth, and the introduction of a new top of the line S Premium model including side air-bags and a factory sunroof". I know the '01+ have lights in the hatch that the earlier models don't....and Car-part.com shows only 1998-'00 and '01-02 interchange.

Hi, Just clarifying....you have 2005 Legacy Limited NON-GT (GT is Turbo'd), correct? And you want to put a 2.0 from an '02-'05 WRX, correct? (the only 2.2 turbo in Subaru's lineup were the EJ22T in the '91-'94 Legacy SS/TW and -rare as they come- 22B WRX from '97-'98-ish). As someone who's swapped turbos into NON-turbo cars (that didn't have a comparable turbo model for their year) , I'd be a hypocrite to say 'don't bother', but --- 'don't bother'. Yes, it's cool to have a 'one-off', but unless your swappers/converters are very good and have done MANY swaps before, there's a (very) good chance it'll never run right, and if you have strict emissions/inspections in PA, you may be making a trailer queen. And eventually you'll want/have to sell it...and that may be a struggle. Remember, it'll take twice as much time AND twice the $$ to complete this, IMHO. Expect to upgrade brakes, suspension (ALL of it), steering rack(maybe), exhaust, tires, etc...and you'll still not quite have the same quality of car that rolled out of the factory. RE: the crossmember - I know all Subaru Crossmembers (between models and turbo versions) were interchangeable up 'til about 2002....so I don't know for sure if the '05+ 4th (?) Gen Legacy changed that or not. But I DO know the EJ205/EJ255/EJ257 are all interchangeable from '02+, so not sure what 'modifying' you're doing. I'd not NOTCH the crossmember, if that's in the consideration bin, as you'll be putting more power to it...even if you weld a brace. Devil's advocate - over and out.

Hmmm...didn't finish this. Hoping she means NA / Non-turbo engines. Although I'm not the one w/the expertise to dispute this, there are more than a few that will in the below links. Backpressure is created by the turbo, so no other back pressure is required after the turbo. Exhaust velocity - discussed in the links, is what is @ issue, and that comes from the header/exhaust manifold and up pipe. Link1 Link2 Link3

Hi, Please don't double-post the same request for info. This info is common all Subie forums....Google will help you out, too. '96 uses a stock 205-70-15, which = 205-55-17. All about 26" tall and won't rub anything. You might go as tall as 27", but probably rub spring perches. use this to type in 17" sizes... https://tiresize.com/comparison/ (and make sure it's a 'real' tire size by clicking the Tire Results tab)

The Uppipe is a potential turbo killer as they wear out internally and send their contents....lots of places it ain't 'sposed to go. But to answer your question. You can get a Tactrix Cable ($100), download free ECUFlash and ROMRAIDER software and tune it yourself via the OBD2 port, get a Cobb AccessPort (AP)$300(used)-600 (new) , or do nothing and probably be fine......but I wouldn't risk it as these 2.0/EJ205 are known to spin bearings even on the stock tune. You can also get those 'anti-fouler' plugs for the O2 sensor which usually work to eliminate the CEL. And not sure just a DP will get him the noise he's after....new muffler?

^+1 Move the pass. seat all the way forward. I'd bet the CD player is DOA anyway...they weren't known for their life-span. Welcome to the Forum, TD

Google found THIS on NASIOC....Remember, Baja = 2006+ WRX/STI engine....actually the 2004-2005 Baja have the same exact engine as the 2004-2007 STi - different turbo and TMIC on the STi for more POWer. So NASIOC is a great resource for these issues. Personally, I'd check those oil line filters- to the turbo and camshafts. There was a TSB on 'em years ago now . They should be replaced or removed and make sure you're changing the oil every 3K. But 209K miles on Subaru turbo engine is getting up there. TD

Nice job. Attaching pin out for posterity.

And as noted above the '00-'04 Legacy OB and GT Driver's seats are electric and have height adj. Installed in my '96 L. I tapped in to a 12V directly under the seat (key-on power only), and haven't had any issues and they're pretty comfy. BTW, All Impreza/WRX/STi and Forester '92-'2007 will fit, too. I believe height adj. was avl. starting on the '98+ Imp RS. FWIW, the '02-'06 WRX seats sit HIGH in the Legacy, so if you're not too tall they may work well for your wife...but be aware the passenger seat does NOT have height adj. and tall passengers will be either leaning the seat way back or craning their necks. As a side-note, some of the newer stuff uses a different mounting type - some use a threaded stud, others a bolt - to attach the belt buckle....make sure yours comes w/the existing buckle attached and you should have what u need. TD

There should be tag on top of the bell housing of the transmission. Subaru Autos typically start w/TZ... you can then just Google that # for applications. - Make sure it's an AWD, if yours is also, as they did make 2WD SVX's - Assuming you know the SVX is infamous for its 4EAT failures - usually due to heat.... - ...Install an ATF cooler, ASAP. And the trick to seating the TC is covered on here...please Search for that important info. TD

and make sure you can drive it up to 60MPH and listen for that telling hum...of rear wheel bearings. CEL is on for 'emissions'. which could be O2 sensor or some of the more difficult to diagnose issues related to the Evap system. GL, TD

You might want to pick up one of these -new or used - as they go 'bad' electrical or that metal tip breaks loose, P/N: 85082ac012:

Hi, If the XT is over 125K miles and turbo is original, very good chance the turbo is failing....be aware that when it fails it can put stuff in the engine that isn't 'sposed to be there. And I can't stress enough that you search for a competent Subaru mechanic. GL, TD

No offense..but my 'el cheapo' OBDII scanner doesn't read TCU / TCM codes>>ECU only. Verify b4UBuy. Td

If the Duty C is bad it won't allow the FWD to function...it doesn't 'break/fail' in 2WD mode - unfortunately. And if your mech can't read the code....get another mech...please. There's a code if it flashes. And you actually don't need a code reader. Search on here for the 'handshake' that uses the AT Temp light to display the codes. GL, TD

Hi, May not be useful, but the Subaru coil pack uses a 'wasted spark' ignition system...FWIW. What does your code scanner show you? What Stored codes? GL, TD

EJ205's spin bearings, blow HG's and the TD04 is usually worn-out @ 125K, esp. if driven like a lot of WRX's have been. Getting the used/JDM 205 is a crap-shoot as I've read of a few (on NASIOC @ least) that were fubar'd when rec'd and had to be returned/replaced...and I'm NOT a fan of any used/unknown history - turbo Subaru block. You don't need a JDM ECU unless you WANT to run the AVCS version (The USA ECU will still run it w/out AVCS activated), and then you need the extra harness, etc. that goes with it. You may need to swap your IM over to the JDM, in most cases and may need to swap cam/crank sensors. There's a lot of (mis)information on NASIOC about this so read carefully and search...a LOT. Yes, you can use the EJ22, but I'd trust the '90-'96 the best>>'97-'98 kinda>>'99+>>less so. The pistons in the earliest years are supposedly best for boosting, and slightly lower CR....but I wouldn't be putting anything above an STI VF39/43/48 on it and stock boost - WITH A GOOD TUNE. Best is going to be a new block. If you use the 2.5, yes the heads should be port matched - not cheap. I'd lean toward a new 205 block, R&R heads, STI TMIC, turbo and injectors, w/a quality tune. Should see a noticeable bump in response, and it won't be a ticking time bomb. Remember the WRX trans is NOT an STi 6-speed...so be...aware. GL, TD

If you're NOT adding a turbo or other FI (forced induction) your stock 5-speed is adequate, as it'll hold 250hp/torque as it did on my '98 Forester turbo project. But it depends on how you drive it.....even the WRX won't last if you're launching/clutch dumping it. But if you go w/the WRX, yes it'll bolt up - you may need the rear diff, too as it's a 3.54 FD ratio...actually, it's a weird 1.1:1. Subarus w/the 2.5 were 4.11; '96-'99. 2.2 were 3.9. And I believe the WRX is a PULL type clutch and the '98 is a PUSH so you'll need the compatible clutch/FW/TO bearing, etc. Not sure if the master/slave clutch cylinders will work. You may also have issues w/the speedo - around '05 Subaru went away from the trans-mounted Speedo. GL, TD