wtdash

Nice job. Attaching pin out for posterity.

And as noted above the '00-'04 Legacy OB and GT Driver's seats are electric and have height adj. Installed in my '96 L. I tapped in to a 12V directly under the seat (key-on power only), and haven't had any issues and they're pretty comfy. BTW, All Impreza/WRX/STi and Forester '92-'2007 will fit, too. I believe height adj. was avl. starting on the '98+ Imp RS. FWIW, the '02-'06 WRX seats sit HIGH in the Legacy, so if you're not too tall they may work well for your wife...but be aware the passenger seat does NOT have height adj. and tall passengers will be either leaning the seat way back or craning their necks. As a side-note, some of the newer stuff uses a different mounting type - some use a threaded stud, others a bolt - to attach the belt buckle....make sure yours comes w/the existing buckle attached and you should have what u need. TD

There should be tag on top of the bell housing of the transmission. Subaru Autos typically start w/TZ... you can then just Google that # for applications. - Make sure it's an AWD, if yours is also, as they did make 2WD SVX's - Assuming you know the SVX is infamous for its 4EAT failures - usually due to heat.... - ...Install an ATF cooler, ASAP. And the trick to seating the TC is covered on here...please Search for that important info. TD

and make sure you can drive it up to 60MPH and listen for that telling hum...of rear wheel bearings. CEL is on for 'emissions'. which could be O2 sensor or some of the more difficult to diagnose issues related to the Evap system. GL, TD

You might want to pick up one of these -new or used - as they go 'bad' electrical or that metal tip breaks loose, P/N: 85082ac012:

Hi, If the XT is over 125K miles and turbo is original, very good chance the turbo is failing....be aware that when it fails it can put stuff in the engine that isn't 'sposed to be there. And I can't stress enough that you search for a competent Subaru mechanic. GL, TD

No offense..but my 'el cheapo' OBDII scanner doesn't read TCU / TCM codes>>ECU only. Verify b4UBuy. Td

If the Duty C is bad it won't allow the FWD to function...it doesn't 'break/fail' in 2WD mode - unfortunately. And if your mech can't read the code....get another mech...please. There's a code if it flashes. And you actually don't need a code reader. Search on here for the 'handshake' that uses the AT Temp light to display the codes. GL, TD

Hi, May not be useful, but the Subaru coil pack uses a 'wasted spark' ignition system...FWIW. What does your code scanner show you? What Stored codes? GL, TD

EJ205's spin bearings, blow HG's and the TD04 is usually worn-out @ 125K, esp. if driven like a lot of WRX's have been. Getting the used/JDM 205 is a crap-shoot as I've read of a few (on NASIOC @ least) that were fubar'd when rec'd and had to be returned/replaced...and I'm NOT a fan of any used/unknown history - turbo Subaru block. You don't need a JDM ECU unless you WANT to run the AVCS version (The USA ECU will still run it w/out AVCS activated), and then you need the extra harness, etc. that goes with it. You may need to swap your IM over to the JDM, in most cases and may need to swap cam/crank sensors. There's a lot of (mis)information on NASIOC about this so read carefully and search...a LOT. Yes, you can use the EJ22, but I'd trust the '90-'96 the best>>'97-'98 kinda>>'99+>>less so. The pistons in the earliest years are supposedly best for boosting, and slightly lower CR....but I wouldn't be putting anything above an STI VF39/43/48 on it and stock boost - WITH A GOOD TUNE. Best is going to be a new block. If you use the 2.5, yes the heads should be port matched - not cheap. I'd lean toward a new 205 block, R&R heads, STI TMIC, turbo and injectors, w/a quality tune. Should see a noticeable bump in response, and it won't be a ticking time bomb. Remember the WRX trans is NOT an STi 6-speed...so be...aware. GL, TD

If you're NOT adding a turbo or other FI (forced induction) your stock 5-speed is adequate, as it'll hold 250hp/torque as it did on my '98 Forester turbo project. But it depends on how you drive it.....even the WRX won't last if you're launching/clutch dumping it. But if you go w/the WRX, yes it'll bolt up - you may need the rear diff, too as it's a 3.54 FD ratio...actually, it's a weird 1.1:1. Subarus w/the 2.5 were 4.11; '96-'99. 2.2 were 3.9. And I believe the WRX is a PULL type clutch and the '98 is a PUSH so you'll need the compatible clutch/FW/TO bearing, etc. Not sure if the master/slave clutch cylinders will work. You may also have issues w/the speedo - around '05 Subaru went away from the trans-mounted Speedo. GL, TD

HI, Look on the Forester's VIN plate by the driver's side strut tower. It'll indicate the original engine....looks like the attached. And the Forester is a SOHC 2.5; OB is DOHC 2.5. Unfortunately, the'99 model year had some transitions that weren't applied to all models:

Hi, Remember to Search as this is covered on here, and you'll find the info on other Subie sites too. 1990-91 are 4.11 FD Ratio, same as the '95-'98 EJ22-equipped Subaru Legacy and Impreza. It is plug-n-play w/the TCU (trans computer) so no need to change it. You could also use the '96-'98 EJ25-equipped Subarus, but you'll need the matching 4.44 FD ratio rear diff. GL, Td

EDIT - 2/22/16: LC-1 Wideband info: (Note to Self: Don't try to use the Evoscan's WB option w/the LC-1 WB software running @ the same time.) The good news is the ratio seems to be pretty safe hovering @ 12:1 or below. Not sure I trust the readings below 11:1 - seems TOO rich... Boost is ~5 PSI, per my gauge, which is right-on for the stock VF11's WG boost level. Initial driving impressions are good. Car runs basically the same - starts/stops/idle/noise. The WRX exhaust is pretty tame (which I wanted!), and is not much, if any, louder than stock. I've yet to hear any pinging on the 92 octane in the tank. Performance is not going to overwhelm anyone, but my 'test hill' - an uphill climb on the local interstate for about 2 miles - showed the turbo doing its thing. The car would usually shift down to 3rd about 1/4 mile into the hill; Now it holds 4th (but not OD) all the way to the off-ramp near the top. Drops the RPM from 4K in 3rd to 3K in 4th @ 65mph. Logs w/EJ25 / 2.5 ECU are HERE. EJ22 ECU AFR info HERE.

My Subaru turbo history: '87 GL-10 Turbo 4WD Wagon (pre-Loyale) - SOLD '90 BJ, EJ22T/DOHC and 5-speed swap - SOLD '98 Forester S - EJ22T/DOHC swap - SOLD>IT'S BACK! '04 Forester XT, Forged internals, VF39, STI TMIC, Cobb AP- SOLD '93 Legacy SS - 5-speed, SOLD '02 WRX wagon-SOLD '96 Legacy L - turbo to come>>>it's here Side note: I've wanted to build a '96-'99 Legacy Outback turbo'd wagon for years. It's still my favorite body-style, I like the higher stance, it's a very versatile vehicle w/its rear storage, roof rack and utilitarian interior, easy to work on and don't forget those Head Gasket issues (er, yeah whatever)...w/more power it'd be about perfect. Edit 6-2019: The kid that bought this 2+ years ago 'hooned it enough to need a new HG (he admitted to doing his best Ken Block imitation) and then appears to have crashed it....but I don't know that fershure. But it's totaled. :-( 8/20/15: Bought a '96 Legacy L Sedan w/128K miles for $1250. It had a 'tick' (look on here) that I thought was the Driver's side head HLA's but after swapping it out w/another set it still was making noise. Also was blowing some blue smoke on startup. Otherwise, car was clean and in fair>good condition - but definitely not a low(er) mileage gem. 9/20/15: I pulled the '96 EJ22e and installed a '91 (or '90) EJ22e. Block had unknown miles (paid $100 for it from someone who got it from someone else from our local PullnSave). I ran it in another project and knew the head gaskets were toast. So, I put an extra set of EJ22T (turbo) heads on it withe EJ22T head gaskets, plugged the oil and water lines on the passenger side head and have put about 3K miles on it since. Tangent: I have no proof and haven't driven a non-turbo 2.2 in a few years, but this 'hybrid' setup seems to have pretty good off-the-line torque. My guess is that it's the turbo heads as the stock EJ22T makes 20 more torque than HP, unlike most Subarus where the HP/Torque are about equal. But this setup sucks down the petrol. I'm guessing 20mpg is it for around town and when driving on the freeway @ 70-75mph it's the same. Maybe mid-20's on a 60mph highway cruise. Not a lot less than the stock 2.2, but not great. After having a local shop tell me what it needed during a 'buyer's inspection', I proceeded to save myself their $1500 estimate and did 99% of the work myself for about $500 in parts. I added the OB struts to lift it a couple inches so it'll be similar to a Legacy SUS: 1996 Subaru Legacy Maintenance and upgrades Suspension: 1998 OB struts with 45K miles (?) - LegacyGT.com Front and rear sway bar links Inner/outer tie rods R&P boot kit 1 (one in stash) Alignment Trans: ATF drain/refill Engine: Swapped in EJ22e from '91 and installed EJ22T heads and EJ22T HG (EJ22e head gasket doesn't match the head's ports) IM gasket Installed Delta 220 grind cams-cost $180>Removed 10/1/2015 - too lumpy New T-belt/waterpump, etc and reseal on the EJ22e/EJ22T when installed Tires: Summer: Michelin Defender 215/60R16 Winter: Hankook Ipike Snow tires 215/60R-16 on wheels + chains Other: Upper Radiator hose Tighten Trans Pan bolts to eliminate leak Adjust rear PARKING brake VC gaskets Power mode switch for AT trans 4WD Diff switch Upgraded to Legacy OB 10.7" front disk brakes w/dual-piston calipers (L model are single-piston) Mud flaps 2000 Outback front seats- power driver's (Tried some '97 OB seats first but the '00 are more comfy) Leather steering wheel Driver's side CV Axle - New Napa 12/2015: The car is 99% a city commuter as I have a 6 mile commute across town - top-speed of 35mph. Car runs great around town. I took it on its first road test to ski in Canada and had two experiences that made me think I needed a power boost (as someone w/a V6 RAV4 and numerous Turbo'd Subies I'm not a stranger to quick(er) cars): 1. Went to pass a neon (probably the last one with out blown HG/engine) and the guy was a jerk (hey, Canada has red-necks too) and sped up on a two-lane road. We were doing about 60mph and my car had nothing left when I went to 'go faster', so I backed off and pulled back in behind. 2. Went to pass a semi on another two-lane road and thank the gods we had plenty of open road ahead of us....I had time to note the weight gauges on each axle as I moseyed on by...painful. So, it was either the 2.5/2.2 franken-engine or adding a turbo (I'm not a fan of the EJ25D DOHC ticking-time-bomb). I had most of the parts for the turbo option sitting in my garage from past projects, so finally decided to go that route....although truthfully the 2.5/2.2 option was less work, and I had two sets of EJ22 heads I could've sourced. 2/7/2016: Here's my Legacy Turbo List for an NA (non-aspirated) car: * This is a 5 psi setup (wastegate pressure of the VF11 turbo) * This low-boost setup should run 'as is' w/out Engine Management (EM). The stock MAF can compensate for the extra air the turbo sucks in. * Notch Crossmember (I'll need to reinforce this. Use a '91-'94 Legacy Sport Sedan (SS) or Touring Wagon turbo crossmember for best application - and get the turbo front swaybar!) * Turbo - VF11 (stock from SS) - need the stock oil and water lines w/the EJ22T heads. Turbo’s coolant comes from stock EJ22T location and dumps into the return Heater-core hose by firewall. * Turbo inlet hose (stock from SS - bought one of the last new ones in the WORLD from a member on Legacy Central) * Re-route PCV, Breather, F-pipe, IAC - this is a PITA, and spent more time on this than just about anything else. I have the BPV, IAC and EGR all going into the same hose that connects the turbo inlet...have to wait and see if that'll blow up something. The stock EJ22T setup has a 'resonator' box between the air filter box and inlet hose that has the extra connectors, so I may have to come up w/another fix. * * EGR - reroute hoses: I'd already done the non-EGR mod when I installed the older EJ22 so some of it was already there, but had to redo it w/the turbo. * Stock SS Plastic pipe/hose from turbo to throttle body - it also mounts the BPV. * * Air filter box: Re-used Stock w/an existing reducer, to a piece of pipe, to connect to the turbo's 90° rubber inlet hose. * * Turbo IAC + one-way valve - The turbo IAC has a 90° elbow that allows it to clear. W/out it I don't think the NA version would work w/the VF11 due the turbo's bracket. * * Sti Fuel pump + kit - probably not 100% necessary for 5 psi, but I bought it w/30K miles for $40 so cheap insurance? * * Move wiring harness - the NA cars have the 3-connectors for the engine harness mounted right where the turbo and a bunch of other stuff must go, so I moved them more to the top/center of the engine under the throttle body...it's a tight fit. * * By-pass valve (BPV)- vacuum line source * Boost gauge - vac line * * Regap plugs to .030? (left @ stock unless I get misfires) * * Install turbo exh. Manifold and uppipe (new gasket) * Stock SS Downpipe, to an ‘04 WRX Exhaust w/about an 16" pipe (2.5" connector ends) extension in the mid-pipe, to a 2002 WRX axle-back muffler w/twin tips (slightly smaller than the ‘04’s single-tip muffler). Used two stock hangers bolted together to hang from the WRX hangers to get clearance.....for now. Edit: After getting a $200 quote from the exhaust shop, I replaced the mid-pipe hanger and 2 rear hangers w/longer ROL brand Rubber Insulator hanger. Part #: 511180. They got rid of 95% of the looseness in the exhaust and I'm going to just drive it as is. The hanger that's on the downpipe doesn't align w/the ’96 transmission's hanger, so it's not used. * REAR O2 sensor wire extension- 24" (my ’96 is a CA-smogged version and has the 2nd O2 closer to the front of car.) * LC-1 wideband sensor to read AFRs - I hope to be <12:1 when on boost. Any more Lean and I'll have to get a Fuel management unit (FMU)/ Rising rate fuel pressure regulator (RRFPR) to increase the fuel pressure to compensate. Most suggest a 6:1 for the MAF-based cars. (Not permanently installed.) * Run Premium/Super unleaded - we have 92 octane * Modified turbo heat shield * ECU / ECM from a 1998 GT, Outback w/the EJ25D. A '98 ECU from an RS or Forester may work also. I 'think' this ECU supplies more fuel due to the extra HP/torque and better flowing heads on the 2.5 engine. NOTE: I tried a '96 and got a code for the Purge due to the location of the charcoal canister. A '99 won't work either as it's the transition year to Phase 2 engines/Transmissions. ECU should probably match whether your car is Federal or Calif. model, too. * Edit 7/6/2016: Installed a cheap ($73 shipped) ebay downpipe (DP). Had my Subaru Guru, Damian A. - install a bung (wire feed welder on stainless), and bought a used Grimmspeed DP adapter on ebay. Modified the connector piece used w/the stock DP. Added 50HP/Torque......not quite, but from what I've read online it should add SOMEthing. Still on WG boost. (Subaru Guru put new rings on the '96's original 2.2 - the bottom oil rings were seizedd, likely causing the smoke. ) Edit: 11/4/2016: Bought an extra 90° turbo inlet hose but for an EJ20G as the EJ22T's sold out. Got it from Partsouq.com very cheap. Subaru 46023FA000 BOOT B JAPAN 87149900 $22.88, Total for This Shipment: $33.67. See attached pics: * IAC fitment of stock part - only about 1/4" between it and turbo. * Turbo one-way valve behind IAC. * STi vs. stock fuel pump (pic doesn't show actual size difference. The STi is MUCH smaller but flows a lot more.) * WRX exhaust * 16" Flex pipe for too short WRX exhaust. EDIT: swapped it out for a solid 2.5” ID piece I cut to fit. * Pre-fabbing hoses and wiring * Final hoses and wiring * Notched crossmember * Grimmspeed DP adapter - note it has the stock donut gasket installed - that's NOT included but just swap over the stocker.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/157531-2002-ej25-to-ej22-swap/

I'd check for STORED codes in the TCU/TCM TD

HI, My '90 engaged 4WD after a delay. Fixing the transfer clutches resolved it. It's not an easy fix, but doesn't require pulling the trans. You can R&R your existing clutches or buy new. What's the car worth? I'd just drive it w/the FWD fuse in. If you DO want AWD, you could install the center diff lock switch (10 mins of work) which would override the TCU's control. This has caveats, so read up. TD

The '98 RS is a Phase 1 engine and wiring. Since the '02 Forester IM bolted up, the JDM is Phase 2, as well. The engine harness - all the wires on the intake manifold, etc, the IAC, throttle body, and more are not easily compatible w/the '98. The ECU harness is likely different so unless you plan on tracing the wires from the ECU to each engine component, you may not get it to fire. Supposedly there are a few online that have made this setup work, but you're lucky if you do....devil's advocate, i may be, but mix-and-match wiring is no fun. Time to get online and read up on more compatible swaps, but the easiest - 99% plug and play - are the ''96-'99 DOHC EJ25D engines & '95-'98 EJ22 ( you'll need an exhaust mani for the '96-'98 single-ports). And I don't think Subaru had factory chip keys 'til about '05...but it could have the factory alarm....did you drive this car b4 the swap started? Gl, TD

Hi, Hopefully one of the experts will reply, but a broken timing belt won't necessarily destroy the engine. It'll usually bend/break a valve or two (yours has 16), and sometimes a valve will hit the piston ('interference-type engine'). In this case the piston can be damaged and need replaced, including rings. But to answer your question, No, the valve grind has nothing to do w/rings. However, $5K for just a cylinder head replacement/repair is excessive. Ask the the shop that did the 'rebuild' to explain what $5K covered....or post up your invoice for the work done. If is says engine rebuild vs. head rebuild you should have a case - meaning an ENGINE REBUILD will include new pistons, rings, rod bearings, and other things I can't think of tonight. If you have limited access to decent Subaru shops in Texas, it might be time to find another car.....although Subarus are easy to work on, they seem to fare better (and the owner's wallet) under a dedicated tech. Also,no oil on the dipstick doesn't mean it's out of oil. IIRC, if it's down 1.5-2 quarts (out of 4.7?) it won't register. If the OIL LIGHT has come on or flickered you're probably too late, otherwise, fill it up and start checking it @ every fill-up. 1 quart/1K miles isn't excessive for some cars....even on Subarus. GL, TD

Hi, All '92-'98 ('99 EJ25D, too) NON-turbo 2.2 and 2.5 Subarus used the same green-label plastic MAF. Maybe on the 1.8 too. Part number: JECS 22680AA160 and AutECS 22680AA160F are the same. Jecs is made in Japan, I believe. And although they do fail, they're cheap used. And buy some MAF Cleaner (don't use brake cleaner -too abrasive/corrosive/bad for the sensor) to clean it b4 install. Another post HERE.

Hi, Depending on your 2.2 - HLA vs SLA - I'd check the valve clearance if SLA.....easy(er) to do on the SOHC. If you've got the Leak down tester, I'd do that and a Comp. test as a 'health check'. GL TD

^If referring to the 4 and 6's used in Subarus -The FB series 2.0/2.5 and EZ3.6 are both chain driven camshafts. - Hondas I'm not too familiar with. Hi 1st comment: $2K repairs is a HG job on an older Subaru, after which it'll be 'mostly' good for another 100K, so if your 160K mile car is not rusted out or otherwise not road-worthy, why not fix it? Since you drive a lot per year, I'd drive it 'til it rusts out....of course reliability vs being stranded/not walking/taxi,/rentals may factor in. 2nd comment: I'm always looking for another car....bad habit...from your list above the 3.6R models will have the power you crave and should both have some warranty left. You can buy a NEW 2.5i version for those used prices - depending on options....but again, you'll be power-less. 3rd comment: I can't recommend anything else @ the moment...I would've recommended a 2006-2012 Rav4 w/the V6 - decent MPG and 0-60 6.9 seconds....but I'm losing faith that ours will make it much past it's 100K mark, which is about up. TD

Hi, This isn't a perfect comparison....but I had a '02 WRX w/the 4EAT and played around w/a '02 JDM TCU / TCM. I was trying to gain access to the Power / Hold option on the JDM version. It didn't work - gave me a trans code when I turned the car on. I was unable to find the code ANYwhere on line, so I never actually tried driving the car. Didn't want to screw up the transmission. If you could get a JDM version to go w/your JDM trans, then it might work and I'd think the 2001-2003 would interchange - BUT I also tried an '05 TCU on my '02, and it caused a light case of torque bind - no codes - but definitely wasn't right. The '02-'05 USDM WRX used the same EJ205 and were virtually identical, but obviously there were differences between years. TD

Also, there should be a white (?) label/sticker on the front connector #1 and #2. Td