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HI, No...but if you look @ the right most attached pic it'll lead in that direction. TD

:-)

Just a heads-up...the trunk lid will fit WRX from 2002-2007, I believe..lots of young-gens would love that wing. The wheels are 5x114.3 bolt pattern, which makes them less compatible than the more standard 5x100 on most other Subarus (including the WRX) of that vintage...but as stated above, they should be well worth the effort to sell. GL, TD

Attached is the Code alarm box (can't find a pic of the Alpine). I had a '99 OUTBACK and IIRC, it still used the Code version vs. the newer Alpine. If yours matches this, you'll need the square-type fob. GL, TD

Hi, I'd also change your CTS - Coolant temp sensor - as something is causing it to run RICH or as stated above excessive oil. GL, TD P.s. I'd ask this on an Aussie site, too as the USA didn't get the WRX 'til '02.

NO offense, as I'm not a mechanic, but I wouldn't trust any Subaru 2.5 head gasket older than about 2010 (EJ-series). If you've made it past 150K miles yours may have been done. The HG do not fail catastrophically and leave you stranded (usually). You'll have time to monitor and plan for the repair ($1500+ USD). GL, TD

DO NOT buy the XT - turbo engines are not recommended. The Tribeca has the 3.0 or 3.6 H6 engine...may be better than a 2.5 but as noted, MPG in town won't be good. All of the rest will have potential HG repairs looming - unless you can get verifiable proof they were done. GL, Td

HI, if you get the belts AND the the same year '95-'99 buckles (attached to inside of seats) they should work. Does that help...any? For reference, I have a '96, and installed '98 seats, and the '98 buckles did NOT work w/the '96 belts so had to swap over my '96 buckle too.

^- He's using a SOHC EJ251....heads are the issue - not the block.

HI, The Ej22 heads/EJ251 block will be a 'franken engine" and raise comp to over 10:1. You'll want to run Premium. I think you can run the STi 2.5 HG w/the Ej25D/EJ251 combo....read up on NASIOC. GL, TD

Searched on Google for "subaru airbag replacement" and found this: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1984321 GL, Td

HI, Yes, from what I've read you'll need the airbag controller (@ least), too....but keep Searching on here/online, as it's been covered. GL, Td

With the FWD fuse installed/inserted in fuse holder, do you have FWD ONLY or does the torque bind go away (assuming it has TB)? If so, it's mechanical. If the fuse makes NO difference in the AWD funtion than it's electrical. TD codes: Trouble Code Table Trouble Code 11 Duty solenoid A 12 Duty solenoid B 13 Shift solenoid 3 14 Shift solenoid 2 15 Shift solenoid 1 21 ATF temp sensor 22 Atmospheric sensor 23 Engine revolution signal 24 Duty solenoid C 25 Engine torque control signal 31 Throttle sensor 32 Vehicle speed sensor 1 33 Vehicle speed sensor 2

Hi, Are you asking because you don't understand what the CTS does? Or some other reason? If the sensor is bad, it's mis-reading the engine temperature and supply the ECU w/mis-information. The ECU then gives the engine too much/not enough fuel which causes it to run poorly when cold. Once the car warms up the CTS may be 'accurate' enough that engine runs normally. There's also the open vs. closed loop ECU function, but I barely understand that myself so won't bother explaining! The CTS is a cheap part (no need for OEM from what I've read), but kind a of PITA to replace. After 11 years it's a good thing to replace regardless. GL, TD

Last tune-up w/NGK plugs and wires? Not in order: 1. CTS - coolant temp sensor 2. MAF 3. Catalytic converters 4. Fuel filter 5. etc? 6. valve adjustment due @ 105K miles, too For curiosity's sake, when were the HG replaced?

See attached. The mark on the BACK of the crank sprocket tooth is the one most miss. don't use the arrow.

I'd find one specifically for UPstream. I neglected to spec which location. ????

16" minimum wheel. All 2003+ Foresters had min.16" wheels, Per Cars101.com Wheels/Tires X - 16" Steel, M&S 215/60R16 Raised white letter XS 16" Alloy, M&S 215/60R16 Raised white letter And bigger front disc rotors: Forester X - 11.4" vented front disc with dual caliper piston, 9" rear drum. Forester XS - 11.4" vented front disc with dual caliper piston, 10.3" rear disc, with EBD Electronic Brake Force I've read about some 15" 'rally-style' (as in WRC) wheels, but none that were stock on Subarus, AFAIK. GL, TD

No MAF on the '00-'04 Ej251, IIRC....just the MAP. Denso on Amazon - <$35 No MAF in/on the intake tube of this 2002 Subaru EXAMPLE: http://images.gtcarlot.com/pictures/60960101.jpg

Assuming it's avl. swap the '03's O2 sensor...but really should get a new one....does NOT have to be OEM. Look for Denso brand on Amazon or similar. GL, TD

+1 on the above. The oil is probably leaking out of the oil pressure sender / sensor = common. Get a new one cheap @ the local auto parts and replace it. IIRC, you 'll need to remove the Alternator. Also, there are two parts to the oil sensor: 1 is the actual sensor; 1 is the housing/fitting/whatever that screws into the top of the block. Put a wrench on the bigger housing and just unscrew the sensor separately. Td

Hi, If this is a serious request...these are about as rare a Subie as you'll find....You'll want to spend more time on NASIOC.com as they deal (almost) exclusively w/the Impreza, and you'll need to look on overseas forums as the USA had NOTHING comparable to the 22B when it was avl. in 1998. Read the Wikipedia article on this page - HERE. Issues: - The engine will be close to impossible to find (actually, very impossible). Yes, you can get close w/an EJ22T block and either EJ20G or EJ25D heads, but that's not a a true 22B - Body panels were unique to the 22B and no longer made. - Others. Most just go for the JDM WRX swap. Buy the front clip off Ebay and swap what you can (it's a Right-Hand Drive remember) into the Impreza. Expect $2500+ for the clip plus another $2-3K in extras. And if you've never wired anything be aware it'll take a complete wiring harness - engine and body - to make this work correctly. Good luck, TD

^+1 Also, what I hate to see is folks buy a newer, but still USED car that is OUT of Warranty, but just @ the limit of what they can afford. And then have an expen$ive repair get 'em. This is why I could never be a used car salesperson....I couldn't sleep @ night. Td

^+1 I would add that the Subaru stock tune is partially @ fault for the engine failures. They are tuned (too) LEAN from the factory to make EPA ratings look better @ the expense of proper fueling when in boost. For those of us that may actually 'drive' it as a performance car, this isn't to our benefit. This is documented over on NASIOC. And as a recovering Subaru Turbo addict, I can tell you to 'just say no' to USED turbocharged Subarus. Unless your maintenance budget includes new/rebuilt blocks, heads (valves), HG ('though not as bad as the NA 2.5s), turbos, CV axles, wheel bearings......@ least the manual transmissions are usually capable (Autos are tough, but limit performance/enjoyment). For about the same stock performance (but very limited upgrade options) the 3.0/3.6 H-6 engine-equipped models are a better option over the lackluster HG-blowing 2.5 NA models. But you're stuck w/the 4/5EAT, which sux. My .02. GL, TD

HI, Anything w/the EJ engine is likely to have HG issues..sooner or later. They were used up until about 2010 - depending on model. If you look on the Subaruforester.org and SubaruOutback.org sites you'll get a feel for other issues. I have an '07 RAV4 w/the V6 (same as Highlander) w/99K miles. It's quick (0-60 6.5 secs.) and fun to drive (for an SUV) but the 3.5 has issues - waterpump @ 96K and the variable Cams are making noise. Plus it's had 4-5 recalls....and a few other issues I've had fixed that SHOULD have been recalls. So although I like it, i'm disappointed in Toyota's reliability record....but I'm not sure any other Mfg is much better these days. I'd also stay away from older nav/infotainment systems....usually 'buggy' and slow. I'd also stay FAR away from an older CVT, esp. Nissans. I would consider one on a new Subaru. GL, Td