wtdash

Post your year/model. There's a post on here to DIAGNOSE ABS issues, which you'll want to do to narrow it down. GL, TD

Hi, - speed sensor - does the Forester's have the cable/wiring by the transmission's gear oil dipstick? If not, NO. - Do you have the REAR DIFF from the '97 (Should be 3.90 FD Ratio), if not - NO (Forester is either 4.11 or 4.44) Do a Google search, too, as it's likely covered on another Subaru site. GL, Td

Hi, here's a wiper arm link: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/16812-wiper-arm-not-moving-2002-outback.html But there's also a plastic piece that connects the wiper motor to the arms that actuate the wipers...can't recall their name, but you can buy them cheaply @ most auto parts stores. I've had to do it on a couple of the '90s Subies....found link: http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f88/diy-wiper-bushing-fix-how-stop-those-clunking-slapping-wipers-111525/ The '95 is only year that has EGR (automatic transmission ONLY) - so it has the port in the cylinder head, AND is OBDII - so the harness/electronics are the same, AND has a DUAL -port head and exhaust - just like the 2.5, for the '96-'99 Legacy's w/the 2.5 (GT, OB, LSi). The '96-'98 2.2 can also be used, but more work. The little things are the vacuum lines, which are explained on here/online somewhere (I've done one, but my 'RAM' is full today). The burnt valve can be repaired by a shop (cost varies a LOT, since shops all charge differently) but the heads have to come off and it's easier (IMHO) to pull the engine, and you should plan on the whole reseal routine if the engine comes out......and even if you do it yourself, it's not going to be cheap. Hopefully I'm WRONG about the burnt valve...but be prepared. TD

Hi and Welcome to the USMB. As you found out, '99 was the last year of the DOHC EJ25D in the Legacy Outback / GT. It has an INTERNAL leaking HG -not the EXTERNAL that you refer to in your 1st post above, which started w/the SOHC EJ251/3. But if you're not getting any bubbles in the overflow tank, overheating, or water <>oil mixing, then it's likely something else. The Compression test will tell you a little about the health of the engine, but a LeaK Down will tell a lot more - mainly the health of the valves...and my $$ is on a burn valve. I bet the valves have not been adjusted? I don't know what your issue is w/the wiper blades....no offense, but are you sure you're putting them on correctly? And 55-65 seems to be the common speed where wheel balancing issues seem to appear. ....assuming you're wheels are not full of mud or snow? GL, TD

+1 - beat me to it.....I think your engine is a '95-'96? Valve covers also used on the EJ20G turbo blocks?

Hi, Check for EXTERNAL head gasket leaks. Yes....2007 still had that issue...AFAIK, I'd expect it on ALL EJ-series engines. - Add a WP and T-stat to the timing belt job. Do the math on your MPG savings for your yearly expense. What would your commuter cost vs. the Forester? -25mpg vs. ~35mpg on 'cheap fuel sipping commuter'. -$5K + $1K in initial maintenance (high estimate) and you 'should' be good for another 100K miles. - Don't forget insurance, too. Subaru NON-turbos seem to be reasonable for monthly premiums. Plus the fact you know the history of the Fozzy vs. someone else's unknown maintenance?? GL, Td

Hi and welcome, My 1st question is, 'Why selling after only a month?' -Timing belt - all pulleys/tensioner/WP + Tstat (only OEM/STANT X-act on Tstat). - 1995 was still NON-interference engine. - Front Diff/trans gear oil and rear diff use the same stuff - 75w90 - or get the Subaru Extra-S if you're OEM-only. - fuel filter, CTS, clean the MAF (maf spray only), - check the front CVs...probably due. you'll find more on here

you can also use opposedforces.com. Look under TRAIN in the transmission section....TD

Hi, Have you seen THIS on Wikipedia? You might have the I-Active valve heads? And ANY coil pack from a non-turbo, 2.5, similar year Subaru 'should' work. I would never buy a new one, as they aren't a high failure item (unlike the HG!)..ebay or local wrecking/salvage/parts yard would be my next stop...and usually you can return it if doesn't fix the issue. Td

Since you swapped the pulleys, did you also swap the cam and crank sensors? I don't know if they matter (I'd be surprised), but aren't too tough to swap. And your thoughts about the ECU + Ignitor + coil pack are legit, and since I have no experience w/that, i'll have to defer. BTW, if you Search on NASIOC.com this swap may be more common as the Impreza used the same EJ253(?) as your Foz and you can find more info. Td

Hi, Welcome to the site. You could just drop the EJ22T into your '95 w/the '95's Intake Manifold and drive it...if it's a 5-speed. Autos require the EGR fix I've posted on here. Or throw the '95 EJ22e heads on the EJ22T block...but that's a waste IMHO. Plenty of info on 'how to turbo an NA (non-aspirated / non-turbo)' subaru online. Here's ONE LINK to get you started, albeit they use an NA block. You CAN RUN this w/a LOW boost setup - about 5psi - which is the Wastegate pressure on the EJ22T VF11 stock turbo - 'as is'. It's not recommended, but it'll work. If you can actually FIND the rare EJ22T, it's already setup to run as a turbo so you're risk is lower than running an NA engine, as the EJ22T is 8:1 Compression ratio vs. the ~9.5:1 of the non-turbo. And no offense, but any 'stand alone' is a LOT of wiring....if you've never done it, it's not a 'first-timers' best option. Expect to $pend twice your budget and your time to complete this project. GL, Td

you can probably download the Owner's Manual online or parts of it direct from Subaru - you'll need your VIN #. Yes....Lights should be on the switches and the temp gauge. Bulbs have likely burned out. REad on here or on NASIOC.com on 'how to' replace. Td

Hi, Yeah...the TC needs to stay attached to the tranny. Disconnect it from the Flex Plate b4 pulling the engine and secure it so it doesn't accidentally get bumped when the engine comes out/goes in. So, did you swap the Intake Manifold from the EJ25>>>EJ20? I'm assuming so, but not clear. That 'shoulda/coulda/woulda' made some the wiring/hoses/etc. less of an issue? And coil pack from the Ej25 is on the EJ20 now? I'd also suspect it's the cause of your 'no spark' condition. GL, TD

just to be clear, I don't advocate power or chemical FLUSHING of any Subaru trans after 100K - just drain, refill, drive, repeat x 3 . Too many times i've seen it cause other issues....due to the seals in the trans failing, etc. TD

...and how Much of the fluid got changed? Just the pan or ALL of it? Td

and you've tried other gears? you should be able to put it in 2nd or 3rd and see if still happens....not sure What it tells you, but may narrow it down. And you're 100% sure the level is correct? ATF level in 4EAT is a pain to get 'just right'. And I agree w/the possible TPS - h6 or not. Find the FSM and test your TPS. Td

Hi, Welcome to the USMB. Is this a '94 WRX you imported to Canada? I'd also go Search on here: http://bbs.legacycentral.org/ The EJ22T used in the '91-'94 Legacy Turbo uses a very similar setup as your EJ20G..and 99% of the same wiring. and Go look on NASIOC.com and do a general search. The IAC you have is also common/similar to all the '92-'98/'99 Subarus. Sorry, I don't know what the issue is. TD

Hi, Welcome the USMB. Since the FWD ELIMINATED the torque bind (TB) your fix is mechanical not electronic (Duty C)...your Duty C is working and doesn't need replaced...but you might want to anyway while you're in there. HOWEVER...unless the previous owner told you (doesn't sound like they told you much!), try changing ALL the ATF before anything else. Buy 3 gallons of ATF Dexron III-compatible fluid. Drain the pan, Fill it to the proper level (this can be a PITA), Drive it a few miles/minutes, and repeat 2 more times. Drain, Refill, Drive, Repeat. This refreshes 90+% of the fluid out of the transmission AND the Torque Converter. If you've still got TB......keep reading. search on here for Torque Bind and you'll find lots of threads and pics to show you what needs done. Basically the rear transfer clutches need to be replaced or fixed....I fixed mine and it worked great.

Yes...just like the ''96-'99 Legacy Outback/GT/LSi and ''98 Impreza RS...... .....with the '95 dual port heads. .....'96-'98 have the single port and you'll need the exhaust header/manifold to match.

RE: the 'simmering' for the turbo. It is the process of letting the car run w/out the turbo running any boost, either while driving conservatively or actually stopping the car and letting it idle for 5-10 mins b4 turning the car off. This is also known as a 'cool down' and they sell turbo timers to helps w/this. Subarus do NOT need this and if you find it in the Owner's Manual please let me know....as it wasn't listed in my '02 WRX or '04 XT (similar engine to your '09) manuals. The Subarus have a 'convection' setup w/the cooling system, which causes water to cycle thru the turbo after it's turned off. Read all about it HERE. Subaru turbos (since early '90's @ least) are oil and water cooled so they are not over-stressed in regular driving. If you're on the track or daily auto-crossing it, then it probably needs to be treated differently....but your post leads me to believe it is not. In 2008>>2009 the WRX changed to a IHI VF52 turbo, and they may not be as well-built as the former Mitsubishi TD04 used in early models. I know the VF40/VF46 used in the 2005-2009 Legacy GT/Outback XT fails early....based on what I've read online. RE: Longevity....sell it and get a different car....yeah, I'm a blasphemer, but the WRX is a high-maintenance car - @ least compared to any non-turbo / NA car. The 3.0/3.6 H-6 engine is a good compromise, albeit you'll have to move up to the larger Legacy or Outback platform. It has similar power and MPG, w/out the EJ255/7 ringland, bottom-end, turbo failure and eventual head gasket issues likely to occur on the WRX. And no offense? But maybe you 'drive it hard and put it away wet'...either unknowingly or w/out wanting to admit. I'd take a hard look @ your driving style and see if there's any modifications there that need to be done. There are many drivers that ride the clutch and the brakes, which leads to premature wear. TD

HI, This is basically a timing belt job. The crank pulley (drives the belts for P/S, Alt and AC) must come off to remove the middle timing cover to access the timing belt components. The cam gear / sprockets will be on TIGHT so you'll need to look up how to hold them in place to remove. As noted no reason to replace the covers unless you're doing the whole timing belt job A normal T-belt job does NOT require removal of the cam gears unless your cam seals are leaking, too, unless you DO need to replace rear covers. Td

Also, you can call a dealer, give 'em your VIN and they should be able to tell you which tensioner you have. Td

I did THIS on the older models. Will it work on yours? Let us know. You'd need to swap back your EGR-equipped manifold. To disable the code (maybe): - Go look on RomRaider to see if they have info on modifying your ECU. You'd also need a Tactrix cable (or equivalent). Might look around your area for a Tuner that does tunes on the turbocharged Subies...they might help. GL, TD

Hi, Where'd your Owner's Manual get off to? Here's one on Ebay.UK. Good luck, Td

and you're putting oil on the bolt HEADS + WASHER, correct? TD