wtdash

>>>for now...soon enough you'll be a turbo expert, too. Edit: I'm NOT a turbo expert...just in case that wasn't clear.

I may have missed it above...but that turbo's drain line is directly under there...and a Pain to see, but I'd shine a flashlight on it and maybe use a mirror ( or you phone) to view it from other angles to see if there's any seepage/leakage in that area, too.

The actuator arm doesn't get lubed, in my experience. That C-clip holds it on. You can pull the arm from the actuator to ensure it's pivoting - toward the back of the car. The discoloration is from heat vs. corrosion- usually. Tangent: That nut on the arm can be loosened to allow the mount to be screwed in/out to extend or contract the 'preload' on the WG. Used by some to adjust it, depending on the issue - Refer to a Tuner's recommendation b4 touching it.

One clue? "replace A/F sensor (OEM from Subaru dealer) last year when the light first came on. Ran okay for a few weeks, then misfire codes came back" So, the o2 DID fix it, if only temporarily???? This probably means something to a Mech/Tech expert. - Fuel injectors...check resistance. I don't know what it should be for your year...those are Top-feeds, correct? No, it's not likely that all 4 are bad. Cause of P0172: Faulty fuel injectors leaking fuel into the combustion chamber Faulty spark plugs Faulty manifold absolute pressure sensor (MAP) Faulty throttle position sensor Dirty or clogged air filter Vacuum leak Faulty ECU (or PCM module) Faulty fuel pressure regulator Faulty thermostat (stuck open) Cooling system that’s been retrofitted (ie: thermostat removed, fan running direct, etc.) Restricted or damaged fuel line FWIW: If 'throwing in the towel' means selling for a loss....then how much is it worth to have a Reputable Subaru Shop (not a dealer) check it out? Drop a $200 for a diagnosis>>fix vs. lose $1K or more because the CEL is on? Of course you live in the PNW, so Subaru Central..... peeps probably come up to you on the street with offers...plus the overpriced PandeMarket.

'05 was the last year of the EJ253 (MAF-based) that did not have the i-AVLS heads. I've read that you can use your '05 engine and perhaps block off/disable the i-avls system (w/out it causing a code) but that would take some googl-ing on your part to determine 'how'. Also, not sure if the '05 and/or '06 was DBW yet. You'd need to use the Intake Manifold from the '06, too. And may not matter? But '06 was the 1st year of the immobilizer for all models. Cars101.com is a good reference for some info.

Also, If the OB is 2.5 and not the H6 3.0, they should both be 4.44 FDR I use the http://opposedforces.com/parts/ website, choose the model>year range>specific model info. Choose the 'Train' category and then the Diff (transmission) to view the 'G/R' / gear ratio I'm guessing.

1998 Forester, 5-speed EDIT: Yes, I'd grounded/shorted the unused 'dual-range' transmission wiring. Wiring was cracked open just past where it was taped to the the wiring loom/harness on passenger side of bellhousing. - Working on adding a turbo (which I've done on other Subarus w/out issue) and after I got it all back together and started up, I now have this 'LO' light on the dash panel. I found online that it's for the 'Low Range' , dual-range tranmission available in NON-USA models, which mine most definitely does NOT have. It has the original 5-speed transmission. I'm guessing it's due to re-organizing the 3 main engine harness connectors to make room for the turbo and related items (it's very tight in that area). Or maybe I accidently grounded one of those 'extra'/unused connectors on top of the transmission bell housing....which activated the light??? But sometimes Subaru's ECU/ECM will give a false reading, which actually means something else. If y'all have any feedback. let me know. Thanks and Happy Holidays!

Or try this: https://www.subaruforester.org/threads/at-temp-light-flashing-how-to-read-code.237225/#post-2463841 States 'thru '04' but the Foz has the same Phase 2 4EAT thru '08?

Been checking your oil level recently? Doesn't take much oil to make big smoke (in my experience, @ least) so it may not be enough to register on the stick. I'd vote CV or VC...:-)

Should be able to pull the codes w/out a scanner: https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/05-06-09-how-to-read-diagnostic-trouble-codes-dtcs.19053/ Can't find the one on here, but that one should work for your Forester too. 50 miles in one trip may not trigger the code. Sometimes it's 'drive cycles' so 2-3 trips to the store may be required to 'trip' the code.

The 1st Gen Vs. 2nd Gen. Fozzies actually used the same tire size 215/60R16 - on the 'S' models for Gen1. And most versions of Gen 2; bumped to a 17" wheel but same height/diameter. The struts of the Gen2 had a higher spring perch so they'll fit bigger tires. I'm running 215/70R16 under mine (on a '98 Foz). All '95-'99 Legacy, '98-2008 Foz, '02-'07 Impreza used the same front and rear strut top (top hats) bolt patterns.

205/65/16 are only slightly taller than the stock OB/Forester 205/70R15 or 215/60R16 stock tires of that era. I wouldn't be 'too' concerned about it.

maybe still on the stock 14" wheels/tires? but yeah, should be some lift w/the OB's.

"I am relatively new to the world of cars and I am in the market for a new one". Although you're an 'Automotive Service Technician Student', I'd still leave you this warning: Please don't buy a used Subaru Turbocharged car...until you've read about all their issues. Canada may have more options for JDM-based vehicles, so I can't comment directly, but note that you may have more issues getting parts.

Here is a good ECU pinout, probably what you're using: http://legacycentral.org/library/ECU_Landscape.htm Shows a couple of FI grounds?

The fender (and liners) may limit your tire size. Your lift kit may help with this. Also the lower spring perch on the front struts will rub it you go too big. Check subaruoutback.org for tire upgrade posts: https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/what-is-the-absolute-largest-tire-you-can-stuff-under-a-stock-3rd-gen.123706/ I use https://tiresize.com/comparison/ to compare upgrades. Per Cars101.com your '05 i has 225/60 R16 tires. The front rotors are 11.5" dia. which will require a min. of a 16" wheel. 16" should still have some good options.

1998 Subaru Forester - Hydraulic Clutch TL;Dr: Skip down to the videos to see if the Slave Cylinder is functioning correctly. Edit: I replaced the Slave, bled it and made no difference...still wouldn't shift. Related to an earlier post about the Clutch Shudder after reinstalling engine. So I went ahead and replaced the clutch, etc. It was shifting OK before I touched the clutch etc. just the shudder. Work done: I replaced the Clutch, Presure Plate (PP), Pilot Bearing, TO (Clutch Release) Bearing, resurfaced the Flywheel (FW). I took off the Clutch Fork cleaned and regreased the pivot/contact points. Issues: -After I installed the clutch, TO bearing and its sleeve (Snout sleeve repair), attached the clutch fork, and reinstalled the engine, the 1st time I pushed the pedal it went to the floor, I pulled it back up and then after a few pushes it had mostly normal pressure. - I started the car and was able to go into 1st-with effort, but Reverse was a no go. Just grinding. I expected to grind a bit - I usually either double-clutch or shift to 5th then Reverse. But it was NOT going in this time. -It does shift to Reverse with the Engine Off. -- - I tried to adjust the pushrod - above the gas pedal - and it made no difference. - A friend and I bled the Slave Cylinder multiple - probably 20 ? - times and I think it's bled - no air in the bleed tube. But I've never actually bled one. I followed GD's advice from HERE. -Put it back together and started it up and .....still not able to shift into Reverse. - After a couple more days of avoiding it, I started thinking the clutch fork and related parts were an issue. - I pulled the rubber boot off the fork and looked down the fork (see pics linked below). I noted the TO bearing spring/Clutch Release Arm Spring was loose on one side, so I put it back. How important is that spring? - --- Still seemed like the fork+TO bearing, etc. had excessive play but I don't know if that affects the clutch engagement? - BUT after messing with the fork I started the car and Reverse worked for 2-3 shifts....before starting to grind too much to shift again. So something I did helped - temporarily. I posted some videos on YT of the SC's movement: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bjwpOP1Dqws&list=PLbqrvIFGwYNxroKppXHoq_OZUL-ucDo7y And here are 2 pics looking down the Fork's access hole: Before I pull the engine again, I'd like to rule out what I can do. Thanks for any feedback.

Kinda like this, huh? :-) I put some '03-'08 Forester struts and 215/70R16 tires wheels on my '98 Foz. Different Subie, but similar setup. The Foz struts will fit your OB 'as is'. Gave me 9.5" of GC and doesn't mess much w/the CV angles. Tires are tight and just rubbed the mudflaps but 5 mins w/a hacksaw fixed that. Your 27.7" is likely a 215/75R15, for the stock OB alloys, and may a better fit to start. Maybe run that combo and see b4 adding strut spacers, etc. Also, I'm not sure it's applicable to the '99, since it has the Phase 2 Transmission/electronics, but there are two mods I like for the 4EAT: Center Diff Lock and Power Shift Mod. Covered on here somewheres. GL, TD

http://www.gearhack.com/myink/ViewPage.php?file=docs/Subaru Transmission Chart

Consistent, every time. Doesn't close UP regardless of using the Tilt or Open/Close button. I can push it up after closing and it'll fall back. Thanks for the reply

2003 Legacy 'SE' Sedan with Sunroof / Moonroof (per OM). EDIT: I was able to used the Tilt function to get it to stay UP and closed. I ran some electrical tape around it to seal it closed for now. Deal with it next spring. - Sunroof controls seem to work fine - tilt, forward, back etc. but the back edge of the glass drops down about 1" when closed. I can push it up, but it falls back. Like there is a spring, etc. that should hold it UP, but has failed. -Googling brings up lots of posts about motor-related issues, but that doesn't appear to be my problem.I also read about a 'calibration' option, but may only apply to '05+. - I know it can be closed manually using the hexheaded wrench, which I've yet to try....but doubt that will work since the motor does move it. - I don't really care if it opens, but DO care that it stays closed. Feedback appreciated. Thanks Sunroof diagram

The 'new' engine has its own mounts - and was previously installed w/out the clutch issue. But....I was wondering if the Transmission mount could conribute to this? It may be past its prime. I have a new one to install....just haven't gotten to it.

Thanks for the reply. Yes...hydraulic clutch. I've read horror stories of trying to bleed the slave/master cylinder on these. I just put another 35 miles on it, which included some city driving and it's totally inconsistent. Not sure why it would help, but will keep driving it 'as is' for another few days and see if it improves.

1998 Forester 255K miles - 5-speed manual. - Clutch kit and Flywheel resurfaced with 80K miles on them. - I swapped in another engine due to HG failure and transferred the flywheel and clutch, etc to the 'new' engine. I used a torque wrench on the FW and Clutch Plate bolts. Engine/Trans mated up without fuss. - After Swap, clutch shudders when engaging and accelerating from a dead-stop; otherwise engages OK. Seems worse after engine warms up. - Clutch worked fine - no issues prior to swap. WHAT DID I LIKELY MESS UP during the SWAP? If I have to go back in to 'fix' it I may just resurface the flywheel and install a new clutch kit. Are there any good (cheaper) options besides the Exedy or Act clutch kits? Thanks

And '99 EJ25D ECU won't work due to Phase 2 Trans - if Automatic....tried one in my '96 and got a CODE, that I can't recall, but it was 'trans related' I believe.