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I'd recommend checking the CODE..... If there's something else besides the EGR valve you won't know it.

Got it...I'll give it a try. thanks

Just to clarify: 1996 Legacy L - 1/96 build date - 22611AC341 / 1Q According to the attached - opposedforces.com - this is from a '95-'96 build date Outback with the EJ25D - 1996-1999 EJ25D ECU / ECM / EGI part numbers for GT / LSi / Outback / SUS I don't have a charcoal canister by the front passenger side near the ABS module / pump. Thanks

No. Bought it from ebait for $35. But the next time I go to the local salvage yard, I'll take a look. The other thing this brings to mind is 'How do the '95-'98 EJ22 engines work as a replacement in the '96-'99 EJ25 cars?' If it's the 'pressure sources switching solenoid', that would make sense as that's over on the passenger strut tower w/the MAP sensor* so it stays w/the car - not the engine. So, the purge valve is likely not the cause........ Thanks again! Td *This is not the same as the MAP used instead of the MAF on non-turbo Subarus from ~'00-'04.

Hi, Final edit (?): Installed a '98 Legacy Outback ECU: 22611AD60A / 1Z I confirmed it had the charcoal canister in the back. So far after numerous starts and stops (i think it takes 2 cycles of the evap system to cause the CEL), and 3 days of driving NO CEL. Calling it good. Original Post: I have a '96 Legacy L w/the EJ22E. I read that the '96 OB/GT EJ25D ECU may give me a few more HP/Torque and higher redline to go w/my Delta cams. I installed the ECU (plug and play) and after a few minutes of driving the CEL pops on. I check it and get: P0441-evap control system purge flow fault / P0441 Evaporative Emission Control System Incorrect Purge Flow Read more at: http://www.obd-codes.com/p0441 Copyright OBD-Codes.com I cleared the code and it comes back w/in a few minutes of driving. I plugged in the Green diagnostic connectors under the dash and the Purge Valve Solenoid clicks, so it's getting power. Does anyone know if the 2.2 used a different purge valve than the 2.5? Looking on OpposedForces.com '96 does appear to be a transition year. But that site only lists one part number (even though the diagram shows an EJ22E and EJ22EZ - '97 & '98- reference). I have another purge valve in my collection but its connector is different and won't plug in. I'd need a different pigtail to splice in so didn't try it. Edit: Tried a '99 Legacy Outback ECU and got error P1116 - Engine Torque Control Cut Signal Circuit Low Input Read more: http://engine-codes.com/p1116_subaru.html#ixzz3n3RLQhHg Most likely due to that fact that the '99 was a transition year and the ECU and TCU don't like each other much. The error only appeared after a couple of restarts. Never drove the car to see how it ran....Looking for a '98 next. Thanks TD

Hi Did you check ECU codes? Try that. http://legacycentral.org/library/literature/codes.htm Gl TD

Hi You can't do this. Good luck Ok. More info: - as noted on here in multiple posts you'll find that that will not work because it's too different. Wiring, intakes are not interchangeable, and other "gotchas". - 99 2.5 is still phase 1 wiring and heads (short block is phase 2)

Yes...we have given you the help. Now please go get the Comp/Leak down test.....you won't like the result, but you'll know the cause. My '04 XT (same engine) did exactly as yours w/the burning oil when it lost a ringland. Td

HI and Welcome, 1. Use the sprockets that match the head....they may work but I'm not sure. 2. You'll have to compress the tensioner - hopefully you have the FSM (factory service manual) for instructions - do it wrong and it'll ruin it. 3. SOHC Intake Manifold must be used - NOT interchangeable between SOHC and DOHC. 4. No...use head bolts that match head...I 'think' they're too short for the SOHC. 5. Yes...ALL EJ-series share the same pattern. 6. Yes....all heads should be resurfaced B4 reinstall (@ least IMHO). 7. Depends....if the 2.2. is over 150K, probably. But wouldn't bother otherwise.....(I'm a hypocrite...my '96 EJ22 w/128K has a bad valve guide...so....yeah.) 8+. The 2.2 / EJ22 only had EGR on the AUTOMATIC-equipped engines. All EJ25's do/did. You CAN make it work w/the non-EGR port heads w/out drill/tapping.- Search for my post on it. 9+. Read up on what HG to use....it'll need to be a 2.5 bore, but there may be better versions for you....FRANKLY. BTW, Your '99 EJ25D is actually a 'hybrid' year, as it has the Phase 2 block w/the Phase 1 DOHC heads GL, Td

+1 Yes...they wear out and cheap. Td

Hi THIS POST may be helpful RE: the starter. The Misfire is unfortunately another (besides HG) Achilles Heel of Subarus. I'd be suspicious of the coil pack and if you've NOT done the VC gasket and plug seals, they're due. Also, since you've been dealing w/this for so long, I'd get a Compression and Leak Down Test done - not cheap, but neither is throwing parts @ it. GL, Td

Hi, HIGHly recommend you get your Search cap on and head on over to RS25.com. They cover all the Imprezas. Also, most sites have "Stickies/Stickys" @ the top of each section that are there as reference for Newbies like yourself. Many Subaru parts are interchangeable between models. Everything from the '91 Legacy Turbo to the 2007+ WRX have parts that would be an upgrade. I'm glad to see you want to do Suspension and Brakes b4 'power' upgrades. As they say, "It's more fun to drive a slow car fast, than a FAST car S-L-O-W. Gl, TD

If the switch doesn't change the AT temp light flashing, then it's wired in wrong...it may 'lock the diff', but w/the switch OFF - wiring same as stock - the AT light should stay off....unless you still had issues b4 this mod. Td

Hi, I've not done this mod recently (but want to on my '96)...but I think you need turn OFF the switch BEFORE turning the car on/off. It can't be left ON all the time, IIRC. It should've stated that in the Mod Thread. If you ARE turning it off/on then.....well, wait for more replies. GL (hope I'm right?), TD

Uh...the '06 Forester will be a 215/60R-16 which is a 26.1" tire. The TIRES MAY rub the lower strut perch (the spring holder-upper). But the wheels' bolt pattern is definitely the same so they would bolt-on, if there's clearance. GL, TD

Hi, Everything I've read states the '06 was the first year of the AVLS (AVCS was on Turbo engines). Read up on the Cars101.com site -look for Archives on the left column and then choose your year and model to compare. And they should be swappable...although you may need to swap the Intake Manifold (not hard). Go read over on Subaruforester.org, too.....lots of 'swap' posts there. GL, TD

Hi, Fuel smell is due to the un-burned fuel in the non-firing cylinder. There shouldn't be any oil on the plugs. It's common for the gaskets on the plugs to fail and cause misfire issues, but yours was 'fixed'? GL, Td

+1 And every time you overheat it, you're reducing its life expectancy....the rod bearings will not last after repeated overheats. TD

No offense to 'ccrinc', but journal bearing turbos, such as these, will have a little play - Side-to-Side- when not spinning...from everything I've read on numerous sites. One such LINK HERE. And HERE. There are two types of play most commonly seen in turbos: side-to-side, called Radial play. And in-and-out, call Axial play. The in-and-out is BAD, so that's what you do NOT want. Journal bearing turbos use the oil pressure to maintain their 'balance' when on boost. I had a TD05 from an older Subaru and it had Radial play, but it held 18PSI, made over 250HP/Torque AWHP, car used no oil and had no smoke. But a little and a lot of play make all the difference....and I can't tell you How Much is Too Much, but there should be tolerances online. TD

The turbos on your LGT model are a known weak point...go search on LegacyGT.com...it could be something else, but it's common. Also, and I tell everyone w/these engines - EJ255 and EJ257- do a compression and leak down test to get a 'health check' done b4 you start throwing parts @ it. They have a history of blowing ringlands, head gaskets, burned valves, etc....expensive fixes...usually in the 150K miles range. A tune is really dependent on your source. Don't know what 'jw' means, but NO an SCT won't work. COBB AccessPort is the most common (only?) plug-in tuner that people use. Cobb has Off The Shelf (OTS) tunes that are a general tune that can be applied to your car, depending on mods, or you can get a ProTune w/the Cobb that your local Tuner (a person skilled in tuning ECUs / engine computers) would do - preferably w/the car on a Dyno. Also, there are Open Source tunes that require a special Tactrix cable, RomRaider and ECUFlash software and a LOT of knowledge, or, again, a local Tuner that can tune it for you. Expect to spend a min. of $500....If you think that's a lot then I suggest looking for a new hobby. :-) TD

Ok. Thanks.

Hi, +1 - GET the Codes First. What made you change the plugs w/out checking the code(s)? If you're over 100K miles on the GT than Yes, the VF40 is likely dead. Do NOT continue to drive it as the turbo can disintegrate and dump parts into your block and your replacement cost will go up ...a LOT. Get another VF40 or VF46 (double-check on the 46's fitment), or upgrade to a VF52 from a WRX - MUST GET A TUNE! - w/the 52. P.s. You can find these used on Legacygt or Nasioc websites - ensure/ verify miles as these cars are getting old and low mileage ones will be harder to find. GL, tD

I have two '97 Outback RIGHT-hand rear struts and want to install them on my '96 Legacy. These are COMPLETE assemblies - Top hats, springs and struts - plug-n-play. I know the brake line brackets are specific to each side but are there other differences that would keep this from working? Searching didn't answer this specific of question...or just used the wrong terms. Thanks

And to play 'devi's advocate', it's not uncommon to see crispy (burnt) valves on these engines....EJ25D. I'm not a mech, but the fact that your fixes are temporary tells me that something is causing the parts you replace to fail again. This car has a MAF - not a MAP - and they are readily avl. used. Every non-turbo Impreza and Legacy from '92-'98/'99 used the same Green label MAF....but that doesn't explain the 3 and 4 only misfire. BUT go grab the Igniter / ignitor - they're also interchangeable w/the cars above ( I think - unless it's integrated w/the coil?) - and hopefully you can get to WI w/out issue. Td

Hi, Read THIS to get the codes stored in the transmission. Did you used the transmission fluid pan to jack it up? If it's dented you may have broke a solenoid or a wired.....did that one early on in my Subie career. GL, Td