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Hi, Double check that the springs are/not tapered (smaller @ top than bottom), as they won't fit the top hats if they are. Certain years of the '02-'05 WRX had the tapered springs. Tangent: And just to clarify for others. The Impreza (all versions) '92-'01 top hats/ Upper Strut Mounts on the REAR struts won't bolt in - different bolt pattern.

Hi, The speedo cable from the '96 will connect to the '90 just fine....just move the electronic part to the other trans. The rear differential pinion flange on the '90 - that the driveline bolts to - won't work w/your '96 driveline - different bolt pattern. They can be swapped, but PITA. GL, Td

Bump..me too. '96 Legacy L.

HI, Read THIS. Been done, not hard - cost depends on where you source the parts. What part failed exactly? I may have some left-overs from my swap.

+ Thanks for the info...I may just throw my extra 2.2 in there if the Tbelt and its components look OK. Follow-up 8/2/15: Did the T-belt, pulleys, Tstat and WP. No difference in noise level. Maybe do an UOA w/Blackstone @ the next oil change in 4K miles to see if there's cause for concern. It does seem louder AFTER it's warmed up. Thanks Edit: I pulled this engine, put in a '90 EJ22e with 22T heads, turbo'd it and then sold it. I then reinstalled this '96 L engine in another '96 Legacy OB (bought w/a dead EJ25D) I 'flipped' in 2017. But I reused the '90 dual-port EJ22e heads (and used my own EGR-fix). I had the heads resurfaced and pressure tested and they were good to go. I DID notice (hint) that the HLA's were kinda/sorta stuck so I cleaned/re-oiled them all before installing. When I put the engine in the car and started it up? Yep. same noise. :-( I was like dang-nab-it, it's rod-knock. But, in a last ditch effort, I knew from a previous experience that I was able to REV the engine - after it had warmed-up - to Redline multiple times and it freed-up any sticking HLA's. It worked again as the noise was GONE and it actually ran great! In fact, I swear these '90-'94 heads are the best for power of the 2.2's.....(but I've never owned/driven a '99+ EJ222). Of course, w/the 4.44 FD ratio of the OB that helps. So, my best guess is that the original 2.2 had stuck HLA's, too. When I swapped out the HLA for SLA, it must've been the other side making the noise? Also, the engine had a stuck piston oil ring (i had all new rings installed), which likely was the cause of the smoke on startup....so this engine had probably seen few and far between oil changes. Tangent> The OB was sold to a kid and it was his first car. Two days after he bought it, it was stolen...w/all the paperwork. His dad came up about a month later and the Police had found the car, and returned it to the kid. The dad sought me out and we did a 'release of interest' etc. so he could get it titled in his name. Apparently it had been driven by a woman, who was living in it....and it was full of loot - phones, laptops, etc. They needed to get the ignition fixed, but was otherwise still functional.

It almost sounds like it's more toward the middle of the engine - not out toward the valves. Even now thinking it could be T-belt-related. Thanks

And I 'think' there is wiring under the rear seat related to the fuel system? Might depend on coupe/sedan vs. wagon.

HI, Miles? Recent maintenance? Original Turbo? Did you replace the seal on the Valve / Rocker Cover around the spark plugs? Oil can leak down and cause your issues....but you should've seen that by now. If you're going to do a compression test, I'd add a Leak Down to that list and a smoke test to rule out leaks as Cougar stated. Yes, it's $$ but then you know the health of the block AND heads. If you don't have the $$ to fix this, you're better off staying w/a NON-turbo Subaru in my opinion....These older, hi-mileage Turbo Subarus are $$ pits...and Yes, that's from experience. And if you haven't, go look on the other Subaru sites such as SubaruForester.org and NaSiOC.com. Your '06 has the same engine - exactly - as the '06+ Forester XT and WRX, and very similar to the STi. Misfire codes on the turbo models are .....a pain. GL, Td

Re-did the valve adjustment (correctly this time - used the Pass. side Cam sprocket arrow for reference incorrectly the 1st time)....and still LOUD. I've got a T-Belt job in the near future and will likely replace the Cam seals, too. I'll look again for damage to the cams. Edit: It looks like either cam sprocket can be uses as their arrows are the same? Thanks

For reference: SOHC Remove small plastic timing belt cover under the A/C compressor on the Driver's side of the engine (next to the battery). It will expose the camshaft sprocket. Intake valve clearance = 0.007" to 0.009" Exhaust valve clearance = 0.009" to 0.011" ***Perform on a cold engine*** Firing order is 1,3,2,4 Camshaft sprocket on bank side 2 and 4 (drivers side facing engine) has an arrow on it. At TDC for piston #1 its at 12 o'clock. Check valve clearances for #1. Then turn crankshaft 180 deg to attain 90 deg. on the camshaft sprocket. Arrow on camshaft sprocket should be facing 3 o'clock. Check clearances on #3 since its at TDC Then turn crankshaft 180 deg to attain 90 deg. on the camshaft sprocket. Arrow on camshaft sprocket should be facing 6 o'clock. Check clearances on #2 since its at TDC Then turn crankshaft 180 deg to attain 90 deg. on the camshaft sprocket. Arrow on camshaft sprocket should be facing 9 o'clock. Check clearances on #4 since its at TDC 12:00 = Cylinder #1 03:00 = Cylinder #3 06:00 = Cylinder #2 09:00 = Cylinder #4

1996 Legacy w/the EJ22 128K. Bought the car w/the Tick on the driver's side. It has the Roller Rockers w/the Hydraulic Lash Adjusters. Car is 1/96 build date and I have pics. Instead of just fixing the HLA's I swapped in an extra set w/the screw lash adjustable (SLA) rocker assembly. I read on here that the '95-'96 had the rollers and HLA and I could use the SLA. The '97+ have the SLA's. I swapped the assemblies, set the intake/exhaust clearance, Changed the oil and it's still noisy. I know the HLA's can take a bit to quiet down, but the SLA should 'just work', correct? I did NOT relieve the tension on the driver's side valves before removing/installing the rocker assembly, but did follow the steps to set the clearance. EDIT: I used the wrong damn arrow. It's the DRIVER'S SIDE not the Passenger side Cam sprocket arrow. Edit #2: Doesn't matter, they're the same, but it still needed to be adjusted. Should I recheck my clearance or do I have something more expensive going on? Car seems to drive fine, idles normally, and no CEL or stored codes. Edit - 8-7-2015: Noticed that I'm getting a cloud of blue smoke on 1st startup. As noted, that's leading me towards Valve Guides....unfortunately. So I fix the existing one, install the extra head, or do some sort of engine swap. Leaning towards a 2.5 swap, as I've dealt w/turbo swaps and those are just a lot of work to get the same power as a 2.5 (unless I do something fancy w/the EM). Thanks

Yes, SOHC and DOHC are NOT interchangeable.

Hi Likely fried the Awd in the trans. I'm not sure but u can likely replace the tail end of the trans but may require the whole trans. 5speed can only be towed with all 4wheels on the ground Or put on flat bed. Automatics must only be flatbedded. TD

This. Is. Amazing. to me....wow. Thanks for the info.

Hi - Welcome to the site. No offense, but I doubt the car runs w/the Cam sensor unplugged - no signal>>>No start. Please post a pic of what you're unplugging, since I'm guessing it's something else. GL, TD

Accessed the 'new and improved' My Subaru site today - https://www.mysubaru.com/ - and had to start over creating an account, although it did have my email and name. And it also removed all my other vehicles I'd added over the last few years. Mainly to look up info thru the Owner's Manual (OM) links (only sections of the OM as SOA removed the complete OMs a few years back). And I could NOT add any vehicle that I didn't own, unlike the previous site that I had about 20....only a couple of which I owned. Bummer

^Thanks for this info....never read about that. But have read about others (ask Ford about there F150/5.4 cam phasers!). Td

No offense, but every '6 months'? Is this listed in the maintenance manual somewhere? I've never seen that and seems unreasonable...even for Subaru's new(er) 3750 mile OCI on the turbo models. Plus, isn't the oil filter supposed to 'keep crap out of the cams'? And this Subaru TSB (although old)- Step 10, states to 'reinstall the original union screw w/out the filter', which leads me to believe even Subaru deems them dubious. Thanks, TD

+1 And the Valve cover gaskets, spark plug gaskets, and AVCS lines (if so equipped- not sure when Down Under got them, but probably b4 us!) could be leaking. While you're in there, I'd replace or just remove (?) the turbo oil feed line screens. ....read up about the How/Why/Where, etc. "Cheers" TD

Hi, IMHO, your referring to 2 different issues, and there are 2 different versions of the HG leak to consider. Oil leaks are common from various places on ALL Subaru engines: - Oil pressure sensor/sender - Cam Seals - front and rear - Crank / Oil pump seal - Rear separator plate - Rear main seal - Valve (rocker) cover gasket - Spark plug hole gasket - Etc. These aren't necessarily going to cause engine damage, as long as the oil level is maintained. The oil does usually find its way to the exhaust and cause the car to stink of burnt oil. Head gaskets are not to be taken lightly as ignoring them usually leads to more expen$ive repair$. Repeated overheating of the engine causes the bottom-end crankshaft bearings to get worn and causes 'rod knock' and this requires a complete rebuild....unless the rod completely breaks and destroys the engine block - then it's a new(er) engine. The original '96-'99 engines 2.5L / EJ25D engines (aka Phase 1) had the INternal leaks, and most symptoms were indirectly evident, such as overheating and bubbles in the coolant overflow tank, etc. The '99+ EJ251/EJ253 and EJ222 (Phase 2) had the EXternal leaks, and visually could be identified when leaking - although they also had similar symptoms to watch out for. For ANY USED SUBARU w/a 2.5L engine (and to a lesser degree the 2.2L engine), if you can't document the HG repair, you're chances of it failing are......imminent. And there are plenty of posts online about poorly done or just plain bad luck even after getting the HG repaired, w/it either failing again or the rod knock occurring shortly after the HG repair. I personally had a '98 EJ25D that had previously had the HG fail twice b4 I bought it. I fixed it and got another 30K miles b4 rod knock took it out of its misery. If you find a Subaru that states: 'New (or newer) engine installed' - Be WARY that it was indeed 'new' and how many miles. If they installed a newer engine, it'll likely need HG @ sometime in its life. Also be wary of the Subaru JDM-replacement engine as it is no guarantee either. HG can fail on those too .... I bought a used 2001 Subaru 2.5L w/100K miles for an Outback that had rod knock. I purposely redid the HG before I installed it to (hopefully) ensure I wouldn't have to touch the engine again....so far, so good after 30K miles. So...Caveat Emptor.

Hi, Actually there is a difference due to a change in the head design, I believe. See (and view the differences) this LINK on NASIOC. I came across these differences when considering an engine swap, here's what I found: If the dealer stated the 11044AA770 SUPERSEDED than that 'appears' to be wrong, and the link above shows why (ports don't match). But I don't know how this affects your SOHC NA application.

It will definitely FIT, but you may need to swap the Intake Manifold (MAF vs. MAP and EGR), and obviously the FW/Clutch disk/PP (and new pilot bearing) for the 5-speed and the cam and crank sensors were rumored to change around 2003? (EDIT: cam and crank were '00 per 'ccrinc' above....but that's the earliest I've ever read???) Td

Hi, The local yard SHOULD have interchange for this. Look on car-part.com for interchange, too. Remember, the '96-'99 OB/GT (?) had the raisED roof, which may affect this, but a quick look on car-part shows any will fit. I did this rear hatch swap for the same reason on my step-son's '96 Brighton. We removed the wiring from the old rear gate / hatch b4 removal and reinstalled it on the new(er) gate - we did NOT cut anything....not hard, just tedious. Here's another THREAD on here to review.

Hi, go here: http://opposedforces.com/parts/impreza/ Choose your year range from the European or US. And for the 1.6, FWD; DL model: http://opposedforces.com/parts/impreza/en_g10/type_1/manual_transmission/clutch/illustration_1/ This is a Subaru parts site that might be useful for part lookup...if they are the same for US and EU. GL, TD

Borrowed pic from above post: On the attached pic see arrow to where extra wire needs inserted to 'ground' pin and turn on Power Mode. Here's a LINK to this as well.