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Re-did the valve adjustment (correctly this time - used the Pass. side Cam sprocket arrow for reference incorrectly the 1st time)....and still LOUD. I've got a T-Belt job in the near future and will likely replace the Cam seals, too. I'll look again for damage to the cams. Edit: It looks like either cam sprocket can be uses as their arrows are the same? Thanks

For reference: SOHC Remove small plastic timing belt cover under the A/C compressor on the Driver's side of the engine (next to the battery). It will expose the camshaft sprocket. Intake valve clearance = 0.007" to 0.009" Exhaust valve clearance = 0.009" to 0.011" ***Perform on a cold engine*** Firing order is 1,3,2,4 Camshaft sprocket on bank side 2 and 4 (drivers side facing engine) has an arrow on it. At TDC for piston #1 its at 12 o'clock. Check valve clearances for #1. Then turn crankshaft 180 deg to attain 90 deg. on the camshaft sprocket. Arrow on camshaft sprocket should be facing 3 o'clock. Check clearances on #3 since its at TDC Then turn crankshaft 180 deg to attain 90 deg. on the camshaft sprocket. Arrow on camshaft sprocket should be facing 6 o'clock. Check clearances on #2 since its at TDC Then turn crankshaft 180 deg to attain 90 deg. on the camshaft sprocket. Arrow on camshaft sprocket should be facing 9 o'clock. Check clearances on #4 since its at TDC 12:00 = Cylinder #1 03:00 = Cylinder #3 06:00 = Cylinder #2 09:00 = Cylinder #4

1996 Legacy w/the EJ22 128K. Bought the car w/the Tick on the driver's side. It has the Roller Rockers w/the Hydraulic Lash Adjusters. Car is 1/96 build date and I have pics. Instead of just fixing the HLA's I swapped in an extra set w/the screw lash adjustable (SLA) rocker assembly. I read on here that the '95-'96 had the rollers and HLA and I could use the SLA. The '97+ have the SLA's. I swapped the assemblies, set the intake/exhaust clearance, Changed the oil and it's still noisy. I know the HLA's can take a bit to quiet down, but the SLA should 'just work', correct? I did NOT relieve the tension on the driver's side valves before removing/installing the rocker assembly, but did follow the steps to set the clearance. EDIT: I used the wrong damn arrow. It's the DRIVER'S SIDE not the Passenger side Cam sprocket arrow. Edit #2: Doesn't matter, they're the same, but it still needed to be adjusted. Should I recheck my clearance or do I have something more expensive going on? Car seems to drive fine, idles normally, and no CEL or stored codes. Edit - 8-7-2015: Noticed that I'm getting a cloud of blue smoke on 1st startup. As noted, that's leading me towards Valve Guides....unfortunately. So I fix the existing one, install the extra head, or do some sort of engine swap. Leaning towards a 2.5 swap, as I've dealt w/turbo swaps and those are just a lot of work to get the same power as a 2.5 (unless I do something fancy w/the EM). Thanks

Yes, SOHC and DOHC are NOT interchangeable.

Hi Likely fried the Awd in the trans. I'm not sure but u can likely replace the tail end of the trans but may require the whole trans. 5speed can only be towed with all 4wheels on the ground Or put on flat bed. Automatics must only be flatbedded. TD

This. Is. Amazing. to me....wow. Thanks for the info.

Hi - Welcome to the site. No offense, but I doubt the car runs w/the Cam sensor unplugged - no signal>>>No start. Please post a pic of what you're unplugging, since I'm guessing it's something else. GL, TD

Accessed the 'new and improved' My Subaru site today - https://www.mysubaru.com/ - and had to start over creating an account, although it did have my email and name. And it also removed all my other vehicles I'd added over the last few years. Mainly to look up info thru the Owner's Manual (OM) links (only sections of the OM as SOA removed the complete OMs a few years back). And I could NOT add any vehicle that I didn't own, unlike the previous site that I had about 20....only a couple of which I owned. Bummer

^Thanks for this info....never read about that. But have read about others (ask Ford about there F150/5.4 cam phasers!). Td

No offense, but every '6 months'? Is this listed in the maintenance manual somewhere? I've never seen that and seems unreasonable...even for Subaru's new(er) 3750 mile OCI on the turbo models. Plus, isn't the oil filter supposed to 'keep crap out of the cams'? And this Subaru TSB (although old)- Step 10, states to 'reinstall the original union screw w/out the filter', which leads me to believe even Subaru deems them dubious. Thanks, TD

+1 And the Valve cover gaskets, spark plug gaskets, and AVCS lines (if so equipped- not sure when Down Under got them, but probably b4 us!) could be leaking. While you're in there, I'd replace or just remove (?) the turbo oil feed line screens. ....read up about the How/Why/Where, etc. "Cheers" TD

Hi, IMHO, your referring to 2 different issues, and there are 2 different versions of the HG leak to consider. Oil leaks are common from various places on ALL Subaru engines: - Oil pressure sensor/sender - Cam Seals - front and rear - Crank / Oil pump seal - Rear separator plate - Rear main seal - Valve (rocker) cover gasket - Spark plug hole gasket - Etc. These aren't necessarily going to cause engine damage, as long as the oil level is maintained. The oil does usually find its way to the exhaust and cause the car to stink of burnt oil. Head gaskets are not to be taken lightly as ignoring them usually leads to more expen$ive repair$. Repeated overheating of the engine causes the bottom-end crankshaft bearings to get worn and causes 'rod knock' and this requires a complete rebuild....unless the rod completely breaks and destroys the engine block - then it's a new(er) engine. The original '96-'99 engines 2.5L / EJ25D engines (aka Phase 1) had the INternal leaks, and most symptoms were indirectly evident, such as overheating and bubbles in the coolant overflow tank, etc. The '99+ EJ251/EJ253 and EJ222 (Phase 2) had the EXternal leaks, and visually could be identified when leaking - although they also had similar symptoms to watch out for. For ANY USED SUBARU w/a 2.5L engine (and to a lesser degree the 2.2L engine), if you can't document the HG repair, you're chances of it failing are......imminent. And there are plenty of posts online about poorly done or just plain bad luck even after getting the HG repaired, w/it either failing again or the rod knock occurring shortly after the HG repair. I personally had a '98 EJ25D that had previously had the HG fail twice b4 I bought it. I fixed it and got another 30K miles b4 rod knock took it out of its misery. If you find a Subaru that states: 'New (or newer) engine installed' - Be WARY that it was indeed 'new' and how many miles. If they installed a newer engine, it'll likely need HG @ sometime in its life. Also be wary of the Subaru JDM-replacement engine as it is no guarantee either. HG can fail on those too .... I bought a used 2001 Subaru 2.5L w/100K miles for an Outback that had rod knock. I purposely redid the HG before I installed it to (hopefully) ensure I wouldn't have to touch the engine again....so far, so good after 30K miles. So...Caveat Emptor.

Hi, Actually there is a difference due to a change in the head design, I believe. See (and view the differences) this LINK on NASIOC. I came across these differences when considering an engine swap, here's what I found: If the dealer stated the 11044AA770 SUPERSEDED than that 'appears' to be wrong, and the link above shows why (ports don't match). But I don't know how this affects your SOHC NA application.

It will definitely FIT, but you may need to swap the Intake Manifold (MAF vs. MAP and EGR), and obviously the FW/Clutch disk/PP (and new pilot bearing) for the 5-speed and the cam and crank sensors were rumored to change around 2003? (EDIT: cam and crank were '00 per 'ccrinc' above....but that's the earliest I've ever read???) Td

Hi, The local yard SHOULD have interchange for this. Look on car-part.com for interchange, too. Remember, the '96-'99 OB/GT (?) had the raisED roof, which may affect this, but a quick look on car-part shows any will fit. I did this rear hatch swap for the same reason on my step-son's '96 Brighton. We removed the wiring from the old rear gate / hatch b4 removal and reinstalled it on the new(er) gate - we did NOT cut anything....not hard, just tedious. Here's another THREAD on here to review.

Hi, go here: http://opposedforces.com/parts/impreza/ Choose your year range from the European or US. And for the 1.6, FWD; DL model: http://opposedforces.com/parts/impreza/en_g10/type_1/manual_transmission/clutch/illustration_1/ This is a Subaru parts site that might be useful for part lookup...if they are the same for US and EU. GL, TD

Borrowed pic from above post: On the attached pic see arrow to where extra wire needs inserted to 'ground' pin and turn on Power Mode. Here's a LINK to this as well.

The 'cushions' (rubber part) - as Subaru calls them, are the same. The brackets they mount to are not. Mounts -see attached. Part numbers: Bracket complete-front, right 1 41031FA000 alternate: 41031FA080 Bracket complete-front left 1 41031FA010 alternate: 41031FA090 '93, October — '95, June '94, November — '96, June '95, December — '97, July '96, July — '98, May

>>Google EJ22 engine mounts and you'll see how they look. (my work blocks most pics so no links.)<< #1 thing to do on any 4EAT is to get a Trans Cooler. #2 - Don't brake-launch - The non-turbo will work if you respect it and don't plan on upping the boost/fun factor. But seriously, I'd consider the EJ25-based 4EATs to be the way to go.... Stock hp/torque were closer to the Turbo's: 165/162 vs. 160/181. Also, if you came across an SVX trans - w/KNOWN history - and rear diff (3.55?), it is supposedly got the same beefier internals as the SS/TW 4EAT. TCU: This is debatable....as I've tried both in an AT swap (turbo trans into an NA car) I did and didn't really matter, but I've NOT done any thing outside of the '90-'94 models either. I'd get it and see which one shifts better. FD ratio: Yes, must match. OH...and a 'gotcha'. If you go w/the newer '95+ 4.11 or 4.44 rear diff, the Rear Pinion Flange (where the drive shaft/drive line connects) has a changed bolt pattern. That flange can be removed, but it's got a big nut and seems to be 'pressed on' so it's tough to remove.

Since it's an EJ255 (turbo), it's probably a blown ringland, which is not knock. I'm no expert on this, but 'think' it depends on how badly the cylinder walls are damaged, correct? They need bored>honed and then measured. Subaru sells .020 and .040 oversized pistons, I believe. td

Just for reference, the 'F' means it was made in the USA, but is compatible - as you discovered. - Early USDM Legacys were made in the USA and Japan (except for '91-'94 turbo models were all from Japan) - as were their components. - The MAF sensors also have an 'F' version for the US-made part, FWIW. glad you're back up and running. Td

HI, Yes, w/the Green connectors connected the sensors on/around the engine will cycle on/off, including the fans....that's normal to tell you they're working (or not). On the older Subarus pre-95, the green connectors could be used to diagnose AND clear codes. I'm not sure if that applies to the '95+ models. Td

- Been there, done some of that: >>Motor mounts are not different. Either they weren't on correctly (no offense) or they're from a non-subaru, as they were interchangeable for many years and models (EJ = EJ). >> Get yourself over to Legacy Central -here's the ECU pinout. >> Turbo trans will be tough to find...hopefully someone is doing a swap. FWIW you can use a NON-turbo 4EAT from a '92-'94 as they also have the 3.90. Or a '90/'91 and '95-'98 from any 2.2 Subaru will work IF you change the rear diff to match the 4.11 FD ratio. ....and you could use the 4EAT from any '96-'98 EJ25 (Lsi, OB, GT, RS, Forester) if you swap to a 4.44 rear diff (The GT, LSi or RS would match your speedo the closest.) >>Disagree on the 'all-together' removal. Trans are a pain, but I've done 2-3 and just dropped the trans down and out....still a PITA, but patience helps. GL, TD

HI, Time to get your search on. RS25.com is another good resource and should have a dedicated thread for just this info. GL, TD

HI, Move or replace that injector, and see what happens. Otherwise, I'd get a leak down test to see how the valves are doing. These 2.5's are due for valve adjustments every 105K miles, so you may be (over) due, and if ignored for too long a valve can get burned (literally). Good luck, TD