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Correct...a new belt would be marked... I don't know....

Which one do you have and did you RE-compress it?

Hi, Considering it's a high mileage Subaru turbo engine, you'll want to read up on NASIOC about the EJ255 (same as in the in '06-'14 WRX) and over on SubaruOutback.org. I'd recommend you get a compression and leak down test done, and if you're still on the original turbo, it's probably due for replacement. Make sure you check you oil EVERY time you fill up until you get this figure out or fixed. It could be burning oil but not blowing smoke. Td

Hi, - The harness plugged in just like the '99's correct? On the passenger side of the transmission/ rear of engine - 3 plugs? If so, that's all there is to it. - Those 2 hoses are probably vacuum lines for the charcoal canister. The 2.2's/earlier models have them up front; the newer/2.5's are in back. There is info on that on here and what to do w/them....I don't remember. - I 'thought' all the '90-'99's had the ignitor mounted to the firewall similar to this? Fuel, spark, air: - Did you make sure your fuel lines are properly connected? Easy to criss-cross. - Verified plugs and wires are all connected? - MAF is plugged in?

- CR offers a 'buying service' to get invoice prices...but still depends on the dealer. - Costco offers a buying service too. - Contact Joe Spitz from Cars101.com. He deserves the business for keeping his site updated...but not sure about his pricing. - OBs seem to be pretty 'hot' right now....Same thing happened to me when I bought my RAV4...it was popular...and I got no deal. TD

See if the attached would work - Exhaust Flange Clamp repair. I've not used it.

Hi, These cars are infamous for faulty fuel readings. There are TWO sensors in the tank - left and right sides - that share the task. Read up on here (and Legacy Central) about possible fixes. The pump is on the RIGHT-hand side (on USA models), for reference. I'll bet on the MAF, too. GL, TD

Hi, I'd look up ECU RESET and do it. That 'should' speed up the relearning. But if the original problem still exists it'll come back.

+1 if you didn't know I meant gasket and O-ring - not the Water or Oil pumps.

- Oil fill tube: Pretty sure it won't mount to your 2.2 heads properly, but doesn't mean you can't make it work - No offense but those 'gaskets' are worth replacing, considering what is required if they leak, I'd think? Did you just do the HG on the 25D? If so, how many overheats did it have? I'm doing a 'non-scientific' poll on 'overheating and rod bearing failures'.

No guru certification here, just too much time on these forums. Yes...should be. Correct. Reseal the oil pump andcheck the screws on the back of it, get a new oil pump O-ring and crank seal, should probably do cam seals too, reseal rear separator plate (should upgrade to the metal plate if you have one or buy it if you don't), rear main seal is not as easy to justify...some leak most don't...if it's been sitting I'd probably do it (read up on the gotchas!). If your WP and pulleys are less than 50K than reuse. New WP (OEM metal) gasket and Tstat (Stant Xact is OK, le$$), exhaust gaskets, etc. ....look for other stuff. GL, Td

I 'think' the injectors are a clue. These are the '97-98 - Gray injectors: The '92-'96 models are Red.

The one in the BACK of the truck bed (red strap) has the EGR. '96 is non-interference, but single-port.

The '95 EJ22 w/EGR is the 'easiest', yes.

HI, Why an '05? Do a CarFax or Autocheck VIN check to get a list of the # of owners and maintenance done (Carfax shows this- if dealer serviced). I'm not a mathematician but for every owner multiple your 'concerns' by 2. Also, the VIN check will show how many recalls are open/closed....if they're still open the PO didn't really care much about maintenance, IMHO. The #1 issue w/any '02-'05 WRX is the EJ205 engine. They are known to spin rod bearings. Expect $1500 min. to fix...if you install it yourself. I'd definitely do a leak down and comp test....I know ex$pen$ive, but so is a new engine. If you're bored go read up on NASIOC - center of the Impreza , WRX , and STi universe. Personally, I'm not a fan of used Subie turbo engines...just too many issues. But I'm addicted to boost so I still buy them. Td

HI, This is a question that gets asked a LOT on all the Subie forums. Please do a little more searching to get more ideas than just mine: - It could be the O2 sensors - I'd replace the front one regardless @ 146K...the rear one is not as important. ---I prefer to stick w/the name brands (but not from the dealer)...but Search on here for others' recommendations. - It could be the CC - for the same 146K reasons. - but generally, if you bang on them and they rattle (not the heat shields) that's an indicator they're (going) bad. TD

Hi, No....or Sort of. - ALL '99 blocks are Phase 2 w/the 8 bolts vs. the Phase 1 w/ 4 bolts. This includes the 4EAT transmissions. - The '99 EJ25D was 'hybrid' of sorts in its own right. It had the Phase 2 EJ25 block, but carried over the DOHC heads. Whereas all the '99 Forester and Impreza RS 2.5's were the EJ253 SOHC....same block (maybe different pistons??) as the '99 EJ25D. But it does NOT matter. They can still mix and match. NOTE: If you Search on here you'll find where mixing the Phase 1 Transmission w/the Phase 2 block..or vice versa (I've not done this swap)...requires drill/tapping an extra starter bolt hole. I don't recall having any issues putting a '95 EJ22 into a '99 Legacy OB (EJ25D). And remember! to remove the locating pins from one or the other....they are harder to get out once the engine is dropped in. Td

A 2.2 (NON-turbo/NA) block + 2.5 Heads LOWERS compression. to around 8.5:1. Good for turbocharging, but slow off the line and less MPG. A 2.5 block + 2.2 Heads RAISES compression to over 10:1 ++. Probably requires Premium/Super Unleaded. Both depend on the thickness of the head gasket.

Safety Tangent: This year should have been in the Ball Joint Recall done on the Dakota and Durangos from this era. If not done, don't wait. TD

No light, just a LINK. '90 should be the same as '91. GL, Td

Hi, The Baja is, as you noted, mostly a Legacy / Outback model. So searching for issues w/ the Legacy will net you WAY more info than just Baja. - Which means it has the head gasket issue to watch out for. I'm of the opinion that ALL Subarus w/the 2.5 non-turbo engines are susceptible to this...to the point I consider it a maintenance item like the Timing belt....@ 150K miles it's due. - Timing belt AND ALL PULLEYs and WATERPUMP need to be done by 105K. If the Seller can't document it, then plan on it. Call around for quotes. - Only and I repeat ONLY go to Subaru shops. Doesn't have to be the dealer, but just seems to be too many issues w/others. - Rust is 'car-dependent' but I've seen a few from your NE area and they ain't pretty. When it comes time to do brakes or other suspension-related tasks, that could be an issue. - 150K is where things can start to go wrong on any car...incl. the Baja. So if the Seller says he/she hasn't had to spend a dime on maintenance or repairs, doesn't mean it's not ready to empty the Buyer's pockets of $$. GL, TD

Hi, Not sure I'm clear on your question? I'd get the KYB struts I see on Amazon or ebay. Not sure I trust the other no-name brands. Approx. $70 each. They made my '95 Impreza new again. BTW, unlike the Legacy OB the OBS is not lifted in the Impreza. From Cars101.com, "The ground clearance was 6.3", the same as the L Sport Wagon. " Go checkout RS25.com, dedicated to the Impreza. Likely good options there for lifts. The Forester's would just require some searching on the rear top hat issue, as you noted.

+1 on 'maybe' reusing the short block. 1. Will a EJ20 have enough power for the Outback? Enough is relative. Do you haul a full load of people, stuff or tow - then No. If you have a 5-speed you may notice the power-loss less...Edit: #2 shows Auto. 2. Will it bolt up to the current auto tranny? - Yes. Use the flexplate that's on your car now. 3. Will the wiring harness and ECU work? - Use your Intake Manifold and it should all be the same. this is the common swap anyway. 4. Other parts interchangeable such as Alt, AC, Intake and so forth. Yes, but hopefully the EJ20 comes the brackets for each. I'm not 100% sure they're all interchangeable. If you go used w/the EJ25 esp. don't just put it in 'as is'. Do the HG to save you the grief (unless you can verify they were done). Plus I'm not a big fan of used 2.5's w/out a history. If they were overheated repeatedly or even just once badly, the bearings are probably about to hit the 'spin cycle'. GL, Td

Try HERE and HERE. GD

Hi, Was this the one in Thompson Falls? If so, that Seller should be banned from CL. I emailed about that car and didn't get any of these gory details - other than the front diff. Regardless, you should now devote your time to the dedicated '89-'94 Legacy Central website. More info: - The '92-94 4EATs were also 3.9 to match your TW (Touring Wagon officially, but turbo wagon for most of us). @ 200HP you'll probably be OK for awhile, but really depends on the condition of the replacement. 4EATs don't like heat, so if you do put in another, install an ATF cooler , too. - The gear ratios - I think - are the same or very similar. - I've read where you can replace the front diff, but not in my toolbox of tricks...but this site should cover that or Legacy Central. - The knock sensors crack on most of the pre-'95 models (Subaru updated it after that - if you can find a used one.) - Fix the KS, clear the codes and see what comes back. Common for 1 code to cause others. - There are posts on fixing/replacing the HLA for the valves. And I'm fairly certain that the NA and Turbo models interchange. - Careful! w/the stock 90° turbo inlet elbow and the turbo coolant tank when working on the engine. Both get fragile w/age and may already be cracking. - For reference you may want to do a Leak Down and/or Compression test. The EJ22T is probably the best turbo engine Subaru made, but they're not bulletproof. I've had two w/crank walk (5-speeds) and one w/broken ringlands. - The sensor is the Oil Pressure, I'd bet. They usually leak but are cheap/easy to replace...but I wonder why it was disconnected??? GL, TD