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Hi, Respectfully disagree, as this is covered on the Legacy Central site and here's a quote from a member on there: "With an EJ22e and EJ22T heads you would be at 9.5:1 CR with the thickest OEM HG and would require some method to pull timing or just run very low boost. The best choice for that swap would be the EJ22T HGs. They are the proper bore and thickness and should match the coolant ports on the heads. The only major benefit/difference of EJ22T heads from regular EJ22e heads are the oil/coolant ports for the turbo on the back of the head, so it would be very similar to an NA-T build that lots of the Impreza guys do."

^Dude - you HiJacked your own thread. Car's worth depends....I paid $700 for a '95 LX wagon that was run out of oil and had been sitting for a year. Sold for $2500 w/a newer engine a year later. Go read up on RS25.com. They have this covered. TD

Hi, That filter is 'maintenance-free' per FSM: I'd recommend an Aux. Trans cooler. GL, Td

How cold does VA get? i never had an issue w/the bypass in N. ID -10 was uncommon but still no issues. GL, TD

Hi, I'm not clear on why neither the EJ22T nor the EJ25D will fit? They'll both easily swap into any NA Legacy or Impreza w/the stock 2.2? BUT I know 0, zilch, nada, as in NoThing about Brat conversions...so there. :-) Read THIS about swapping an NA EJ22e to an EJ22T turbo on Legacy Central for info. The '90-'94 wiring harness is very similar and the ECU from a turbo plugs into the same exact harness as an NA. I personally think putting the turbo heads on the NA block and running WG boost is a relatively safe option...it's on my 'to do' list if I come across a cheap Legacy....but won't be 200hp. Call Delta cams and ask about their Torque Grind. I 'think' it's worth 15-20 lbs-ft? Enough to notice, but still not 200. TD

Don't buy a used WRX that is out of warranty, is a 5-speed, or is modified, unless you have the $$ to repair it. $13K for a '03 is @ least $3K too much...even in my Subaru NW 'hood. Driving an Audi she must know about repairs?? An older WRX isn't much better, just a bit cheaper to fix. No offense, but I'd just step away from this 'deal' and let her do her own thing. Tell her to go test drive a few cars - w/out her purse/wallet/etc (just ID) - and THEN think about it. GL, Td

HI, '98 should still be a Phase 1 trans w/the 4 bolts. I don't think anything newer will work due to electronic differences (although it'll still bolt up), however any Subaru w/the EJ25D trans from '96-'98 should work and have the same 4.44 FD ratio: Legacy OB, GT, LSi, and Impreza RS. Google found THIS and THIS. GL, TD

Hi, I swear I'm NOT ESL, but i don't comprehend this: "change both the tensioner and the hydraulic assembly as well" In the pics I posted what parts did you change? And BTW, you CAN use your EJ25D assembly (I would if it's new-ish), just remove that whole bracket as shown in the pic. It'll bolt onto your 2.2. TD

Correct...a new belt would be marked... I don't know....

Which one do you have and did you RE-compress it?

Hi, Considering it's a high mileage Subaru turbo engine, you'll want to read up on NASIOC about the EJ255 (same as in the in '06-'14 WRX) and over on SubaruOutback.org. I'd recommend you get a compression and leak down test done, and if you're still on the original turbo, it's probably due for replacement. Make sure you check you oil EVERY time you fill up until you get this figure out or fixed. It could be burning oil but not blowing smoke. Td

Hi, - The harness plugged in just like the '99's correct? On the passenger side of the transmission/ rear of engine - 3 plugs? If so, that's all there is to it. - Those 2 hoses are probably vacuum lines for the charcoal canister. The 2.2's/earlier models have them up front; the newer/2.5's are in back. There is info on that on here and what to do w/them....I don't remember. - I 'thought' all the '90-'99's had the ignitor mounted to the firewall similar to this? Fuel, spark, air: - Did you make sure your fuel lines are properly connected? Easy to criss-cross. - Verified plugs and wires are all connected? - MAF is plugged in?

- CR offers a 'buying service' to get invoice prices...but still depends on the dealer. - Costco offers a buying service too. - Contact Joe Spitz from Cars101.com. He deserves the business for keeping his site updated...but not sure about his pricing. - OBs seem to be pretty 'hot' right now....Same thing happened to me when I bought my RAV4...it was popular...and I got no deal. TD

See if the attached would work - Exhaust Flange Clamp repair. I've not used it.

Hi, These cars are infamous for faulty fuel readings. There are TWO sensors in the tank - left and right sides - that share the task. Read up on here (and Legacy Central) about possible fixes. The pump is on the RIGHT-hand side (on USA models), for reference. I'll bet on the MAF, too. GL, TD

Hi, I'd look up ECU RESET and do it. That 'should' speed up the relearning. But if the original problem still exists it'll come back.

+1 if you didn't know I meant gasket and O-ring - not the Water or Oil pumps.

- Oil fill tube: Pretty sure it won't mount to your 2.2 heads properly, but doesn't mean you can't make it work - No offense but those 'gaskets' are worth replacing, considering what is required if they leak, I'd think? Did you just do the HG on the 25D? If so, how many overheats did it have? I'm doing a 'non-scientific' poll on 'overheating and rod bearing failures'.

No guru certification here, just too much time on these forums. Yes...should be. Correct. Reseal the oil pump andcheck the screws on the back of it, get a new oil pump O-ring and crank seal, should probably do cam seals too, reseal rear separator plate (should upgrade to the metal plate if you have one or buy it if you don't), rear main seal is not as easy to justify...some leak most don't...if it's been sitting I'd probably do it (read up on the gotchas!). If your WP and pulleys are less than 50K than reuse. New WP (OEM metal) gasket and Tstat (Stant Xact is OK, le$$), exhaust gaskets, etc. ....look for other stuff. GL, Td

I 'think' the injectors are a clue. These are the '97-98 - Gray injectors: The '92-'96 models are Red.

The one in the BACK of the truck bed (red strap) has the EGR. '96 is non-interference, but single-port.

The '95 EJ22 w/EGR is the 'easiest', yes.

HI, Why an '05? Do a CarFax or Autocheck VIN check to get a list of the # of owners and maintenance done (Carfax shows this- if dealer serviced). I'm not a mathematician but for every owner multiple your 'concerns' by 2. Also, the VIN check will show how many recalls are open/closed....if they're still open the PO didn't really care much about maintenance, IMHO. The #1 issue w/any '02-'05 WRX is the EJ205 engine. They are known to spin rod bearings. Expect $1500 min. to fix...if you install it yourself. I'd definitely do a leak down and comp test....I know ex$pen$ive, but so is a new engine. If you're bored go read up on NASIOC - center of the Impreza , WRX , and STi universe. Personally, I'm not a fan of used Subie turbo engines...just too many issues. But I'm addicted to boost so I still buy them. Td

HI, This is a question that gets asked a LOT on all the Subie forums. Please do a little more searching to get more ideas than just mine: - It could be the O2 sensors - I'd replace the front one regardless @ 146K...the rear one is not as important. ---I prefer to stick w/the name brands (but not from the dealer)...but Search on here for others' recommendations. - It could be the CC - for the same 146K reasons. - but generally, if you bang on them and they rattle (not the heat shields) that's an indicator they're (going) bad. TD

Hi, No....or Sort of. - ALL '99 blocks are Phase 2 w/the 8 bolts vs. the Phase 1 w/ 4 bolts. This includes the 4EAT transmissions. - The '99 EJ25D was 'hybrid' of sorts in its own right. It had the Phase 2 EJ25 block, but carried over the DOHC heads. Whereas all the '99 Forester and Impreza RS 2.5's were the EJ253 SOHC....same block (maybe different pistons??) as the '99 EJ25D. But it does NOT matter. They can still mix and match. NOTE: If you Search on here you'll find where mixing the Phase 1 Transmission w/the Phase 2 block..or vice versa (I've not done this swap)...requires drill/tapping an extra starter bolt hole. I don't recall having any issues putting a '95 EJ22 into a '99 Legacy OB (EJ25D). And remember! to remove the locating pins from one or the other....they are harder to get out once the engine is dropped in. Td