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HI, Did your searching find my POST on EGR info? Keep looking on here, but the quick answer is: - Any EJ22 from '90-'98, Legacy or Impreza w/the intake manifold (IM) from any EJ22 EGR-equipped '95-'98 Subaru will work. (EJ25D IM will NOT fit EJ22e heads). Again - the head need not have the EGR port, but the IM must or you'll get a CEL and no one has yet to figure out a work-around. - '96-'98 heads are SINGLE-port exhaust - you'll need the Y-pipe. It connects to your '99's exhaust, too. - '99 had additional mount points on the bellhousing - Does NOT matter - the older style EJ22 bolts up as does the starter. - Use the flywheel/flexplate that matches your TRANS - not the engine: 2.2<>2.5. - '95 is the best option - dual-port and EGR on the Auto trans models. - Use your stock SUS ECU...I'm not even sure if the anything older than '97 will plug in anyway. *There some possible 'gotchas' w/the power steering/AC/Alt brackets, but should be able to get those figured out looking on here. CAVEAT: I'm 'assuming' the SUS is just a sedan version of the '99 OB....as I did this swap on a '99 OB w/out issue. For the EJ22/EJ25 franken engine, always use a HG that matches the bore of the block. There are a couple of options w/the EJ22, but I 'think' the one to use is the 'Phase 1' '90-'98 version....I'm just not sure if it works best w/the coolant and oil passages on the EJ25D. You could look into using the Phase 2 '99-'01 EJ22, too. GL, Td

As noted, drivers and passenger are not interchangeable.... Post your YEAR and we can suggest replacements. But ANY Legacy model (L, LS, LSi, GT, OB) from '90-99 will bolt up to a '96-'99 Legacy OB. Also, Impreza and Forester 'thru 2007/8 will work in '90-'99 Legacy OB, but the seat sits higher...esp. the passenger. Swap your buckles to the 'new' seats. I 'think' you can also use the '00-'05 Legacy/Outback in the '90-'99 Legacy, but haven't confirmed that. I know the '05+ Legacy/Outback models won't fit '90-'99. GL

You probably figured this out......but The ECT aka CTS (coolant temp sensor) is on the coolant crossover pipe that runs under the intake manifold (IM). It's on the passenger side, back of the IM...Usually hidden behind some wiring. GL, Td

Hi, Covered extensively on NASIOC website. But the quick answer is NO. It's most compatible w/the '02-'05 model. The newer models have different wiring harness, ECU, etc. GL, Td

Huh? The rear bases on the seats are side-specific they will not interchange.

IncorrectSeat CUSHIONS/foam are interchangeable. Not the whole seat.

Hi, Post this in the Subaru Stuff Wanted thread / section to get some attention. (Admins/Mods will move this post, too.) And this applies to all the Subaru forums w/their Classified sections. GL, Td

Hi, The easiest plug-n-play are the '90-'99 Seats from any Legacy model....even the Outback. I 'think' the '00-'04 may fit also, but not 100%. You'll need to keep your existing buckles. The '92-'07 Impreza seats will bolt in, but you may sit higher than you like. I know on the '02-'07 WRX models the seats are a good 1-2" higher and even w/the height adjustment (driver's side only) @ the lowest setting they're too high for many. GL, Td

STOP! Don't do it! Jake come back! OK...2much? Plz don't use that axle, unless you LIKE changing them every 6 months (depending on your # of miles). Those cheap axles don't have a good rep on any of the Subie sites.....pony up for a better one, still less than $100 usually. td

Hi, I 2nd the Gates kit above LINK. But don't buy it @ RS. I paid a lot less for the same thing on Amazon. Came w/the metal WP gasket and Tbelt spacer tool, too. I bought the Stant Xact T-stat which is identical to the OEM part, but cheaper. GL, Td

Hi, My '96 Legacy did the same thing...when the pass. side was completely broken. The car would drive up to about 30mph and putting it into Park didn't keep it from rolling. Put in a new axle about 30K miles ago, and it's still going strong..... TD

Hi, The 4EAT and Manual - 5-speed were avl., too. Per CARS101.com. Fluid looks like this: And Dexron is fine., too. What was the level like? These can be a pain to check. Awful low miles to have a trans issue (47k?)....but it's due for ATF drain/refill. I'm not a fan of the chemical/power flushes, but @ 47K it should be OK. GL, Td

Hi, Read THIS for the EGR info. Also, you'll need the y-pipe for a SINGLE-port exhaust manifold/header as the 2.5's are all dual-port, and '96-'98 EJ22's are Single. Swap over the 2.5 flex-plate as you'll need it for the AT's torque converter. Reseal the rear separator plate if @ all leaking. ....don't touch the rear main seal unless you're sure it's leaking and read up on here about caveats if you do change it. And as noted above just use the '96's AT, EGR-equipped IM. GL, TD

yes...go look over on RS25.com (mainly an Impreza site) for more info, too. Td

24 - IACV (holds the IDLE) - May need cleaned or could be the wires are cracked/corroded/etc. 32- check wiring - only one on the '93. 33 - Likely the tip /blade of speed sensor in the transmission housing (near the DIFFERENTIAL dipstick on passenger side) is bad. Search on here how to fix that. 35 - common for this code to get set w/others. when you get the axle back in follow the RESET procedure listed in the ECU codes link. And the TCU test doesn't require it to be 'warmed-up'....AFAIK.....just follow the rest of instructions. You're looking for HISTORICAL or Previous codes (review the link again as there are 2 ways to check TCU codes). GL, TD

Hi, Does the Speedo work fine 100% of the time? If not it could be the connector is broken on the tranny housing (near the Diff dipstick). If speedo is OK, then yours is acting like my trans did when it finally died. I did a complete drain/refill 3x to replace the ATF and it worked for about......10 minutes. GL, Td

Hi - Welcome to the USMB forum, Does the POWER light blink when the car is started/turned on? If so there's a TCU code stored - READ THIS. This may help ID the issue. Most likely the rear clutch packs are dead....there are a bunch of threads on here on what others have done to fix/diagnose this. The CEL needs to be read (pulled) from the ECU - READ THIS. Reply back when you know the code(s). Don't use cheap CV axles....you'll just be doing the job again in 6 months. GL, TD

Hi, You can check the injectors resistance - should be 10-12 Ohms, I believe, but I'd compare to another 1 or 2 as I'm going off what earlier year side-feed injectors are. But does sound 'dead'. BTW, the side-feed yellows in your '05 are the same as '04-'06 STI, Forester XT, Baja turbo, & Outback XT use. TD

Feedback, please. 2002 WRX w/an AT trans. 168K miles. Car was purchased w/a supposedly non-working transmission. But it drove on the trailer and to the DMV, so I did the 3X drain/refill/repeat and the car seemed to drive - mostly - fine. And I just upgraded the turbo and the car drove fine while checking out the tune. This included full throttle accelerations @ 50+ and from a stop. The trans would shift down when the pedal was floored and accelerate normally*. Except for these issues: 1. There's a grinding noise that ONLY occurs when the car is moving AND accelerating. Doesn't occur when coasting or just stopped and idling. Sounds like it's under the driver's area...but could be the TC, too. 2. Occasional hard shift into Reverse and when downshifting from 4>>3rd>>2nd>>1st. Doesn't 'hold' the shift, just a more noticeable clunk into gear. 3. ONE time only today - car had been sitting overnight- I pulled the car around to my garage for an oil change, and after hitting a decent size puddle/pothole (but no worse hitting a speed bump a bit fast) the car Stopped Accelerating. I shifted thru all gears and nothing. Put it into Park for 10 seconds, tried D once more and the car started moving and drove into the garage w/out further issue. I checked the fluid, which looked/smelled OK and the level was good. After doing the oil change I took the car for a 'spirited' drive on the freeway and local winding road and it worked fine. - No CEL / Transmission codes. - Transmission has BEEN REPLACED already (it has a Reman. sticker on it), but I don't know when/why or @ what mileage. Doesn't show up on the Carfax and my Subaru parts dealer didn't see that it'd been replaced by a Subie dealer. So, I don't know what to think. Other than I've probably got a transmission project in my future. Thanks, TD * The Subaru 4EAT on a turbocharged model just plain sux for off the line acceleration. My Forester XT was equally unresponsive.

Here in the US the EJ205/ 2.0 are known for 'spun bearings'. But if this is the EJ207 engine, they may be superior to both US 2.0 and 2.5. I wouldn't be worried about # 4. It looks to be w/in spec variance....but w/out actual #'s it's not 100% clear.

Hi, Not clear on why you're removing those? But I've also not done a a HG job on anything past '04. TD

HI, 1st off, a '96 was the last year of NON-interference EJ22's. Have you pulled it apart to verify? New heads are more than the car's worth. Here's a LINK to opposed forces that shows part numbers. EDIT: They're about $300/side. Find another set of heads from an EJ22 - any year from '90 to '98. If yours has EGR look for my post on using a NON-EGR head. TD

The power output of the non-turbo Z will be of different type than the Subie - sounds like you've already figured that out. The S-GT/WRX/STi can be tuned (or upgraded) to get the power back in the middle. For the Yanks: S-GT is WRX down under/Japan/UK? REVIEW

I'd tend to agree w/'fishy'. There were some upgrades on the STi version in '11, if you can swing it. From Wikipedia: Is your Z stock or modded? You may already be 'accustomed' to the firmer ride of the STi. But the WRX can be made to handle like the STi and can be upgraded to STi power levels w/out much trouble. Regardless of which model you get, PLEASE get a compression and leak down test done. Yes, it's @ least a couple hundred $$, but turbo Subarus don't have the 'bulletproof' engines of the NA versions (minus their infamous head gaskets). GL, TD

Hi, They should. The 2.2 will be a cable clutch and the 2.5 is hydraulic (hydro),which shouldn't matter. They are both PUSH-type clutches (some turbo models used a PULL-type). Per OpposedForces.com they use the same clutch: gl, Td