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A 2.2 (NON-turbo/NA) block + 2.5 Heads LOWERS compression. to around 8.5:1. Good for turbocharging, but slow off the line and less MPG. A 2.5 block + 2.2 Heads RAISES compression to over 10:1 ++. Probably requires Premium/Super Unleaded. Both depend on the thickness of the head gasket.

Safety Tangent: This year should have been in the Ball Joint Recall done on the Dakota and Durangos from this era. If not done, don't wait. TD

No light, just a LINK. '90 should be the same as '91. GL, Td

Hi, The Baja is, as you noted, mostly a Legacy / Outback model. So searching for issues w/ the Legacy will net you WAY more info than just Baja. - Which means it has the head gasket issue to watch out for. I'm of the opinion that ALL Subarus w/the 2.5 non-turbo engines are susceptible to this...to the point I consider it a maintenance item like the Timing belt....@ 150K miles it's due. - Timing belt AND ALL PULLEYs and WATERPUMP need to be done by 105K. If the Seller can't document it, then plan on it. Call around for quotes. - Only and I repeat ONLY go to Subaru shops. Doesn't have to be the dealer, but just seems to be too many issues w/others. - Rust is 'car-dependent' but I've seen a few from your NE area and they ain't pretty. When it comes time to do brakes or other suspension-related tasks, that could be an issue. - 150K is where things can start to go wrong on any car...incl. the Baja. So if the Seller says he/she hasn't had to spend a dime on maintenance or repairs, doesn't mean it's not ready to empty the Buyer's pockets of $$. GL, TD

Hi, Not sure I'm clear on your question? I'd get the KYB struts I see on Amazon or ebay. Not sure I trust the other no-name brands. Approx. $70 each. They made my '95 Impreza new again. BTW, unlike the Legacy OB the OBS is not lifted in the Impreza. From Cars101.com, "The ground clearance was 6.3", the same as the L Sport Wagon. " Go checkout RS25.com, dedicated to the Impreza. Likely good options there for lifts. The Forester's would just require some searching on the rear top hat issue, as you noted.

+1 on 'maybe' reusing the short block. 1. Will a EJ20 have enough power for the Outback? Enough is relative. Do you haul a full load of people, stuff or tow - then No. If you have a 5-speed you may notice the power-loss less...Edit: #2 shows Auto. 2. Will it bolt up to the current auto tranny? - Yes. Use the flexplate that's on your car now. 3. Will the wiring harness and ECU work? - Use your Intake Manifold and it should all be the same. this is the common swap anyway. 4. Other parts interchangeable such as Alt, AC, Intake and so forth. Yes, but hopefully the EJ20 comes the brackets for each. I'm not 100% sure they're all interchangeable. If you go used w/the EJ25 esp. don't just put it in 'as is'. Do the HG to save you the grief (unless you can verify they were done). Plus I'm not a big fan of used 2.5's w/out a history. If they were overheated repeatedly or even just once badly, the bearings are probably about to hit the 'spin cycle'. GL, Td

Try HERE and HERE. GD

Hi, Was this the one in Thompson Falls? If so, that Seller should be banned from CL. I emailed about that car and didn't get any of these gory details - other than the front diff. Regardless, you should now devote your time to the dedicated '89-'94 Legacy Central website. More info: - The '92-94 4EATs were also 3.9 to match your TW (Touring Wagon officially, but turbo wagon for most of us). @ 200HP you'll probably be OK for awhile, but really depends on the condition of the replacement. 4EATs don't like heat, so if you do put in another, install an ATF cooler , too. - The gear ratios - I think - are the same or very similar. - I've read where you can replace the front diff, but not in my toolbox of tricks...but this site should cover that or Legacy Central. - The knock sensors crack on most of the pre-'95 models (Subaru updated it after that - if you can find a used one.) - Fix the KS, clear the codes and see what comes back. Common for 1 code to cause others. - There are posts on fixing/replacing the HLA for the valves. And I'm fairly certain that the NA and Turbo models interchange. - Careful! w/the stock 90° turbo inlet elbow and the turbo coolant tank when working on the engine. Both get fragile w/age and may already be cracking. - For reference you may want to do a Leak Down and/or Compression test. The EJ22T is probably the best turbo engine Subaru made, but they're not bulletproof. I've had two w/crank walk (5-speeds) and one w/broken ringlands. - The sensor is the Oil Pressure, I'd bet. They usually leak but are cheap/easy to replace...but I wonder why it was disconnected??? GL, TD

HI, Did your searching find my POST on EGR info? Keep looking on here, but the quick answer is: - Any EJ22 from '90-'98, Legacy or Impreza w/the intake manifold (IM) from any EJ22 EGR-equipped '95-'98 Subaru will work. (EJ25D IM will NOT fit EJ22e heads). Again - the head need not have the EGR port, but the IM must or you'll get a CEL and no one has yet to figure out a work-around. - '96-'98 heads are SINGLE-port exhaust - you'll need the Y-pipe. It connects to your '99's exhaust, too. - '99 had additional mount points on the bellhousing - Does NOT matter - the older style EJ22 bolts up as does the starter. - Use the flywheel/flexplate that matches your TRANS - not the engine: 2.2<>2.5. - '95 is the best option - dual-port and EGR on the Auto trans models. - Use your stock SUS ECU...I'm not even sure if the anything older than '97 will plug in anyway. *There some possible 'gotchas' w/the power steering/AC/Alt brackets, but should be able to get those figured out looking on here. CAVEAT: I'm 'assuming' the SUS is just a sedan version of the '99 OB....as I did this swap on a '99 OB w/out issue. For the EJ22/EJ25 franken engine, always use a HG that matches the bore of the block. There are a couple of options w/the EJ22, but I 'think' the one to use is the 'Phase 1' '90-'98 version....I'm just not sure if it works best w/the coolant and oil passages on the EJ25D. You could look into using the Phase 2 '99-'01 EJ22, too. GL, Td

As noted, drivers and passenger are not interchangeable.... Post your YEAR and we can suggest replacements. But ANY Legacy model (L, LS, LSi, GT, OB) from '90-99 will bolt up to a '96-'99 Legacy OB. Also, Impreza and Forester 'thru 2007/8 will work in '90-'99 Legacy OB, but the seat sits higher...esp. the passenger. Swap your buckles to the 'new' seats. I 'think' you can also use the '00-'05 Legacy/Outback in the '90-'99 Legacy, but haven't confirmed that. I know the '05+ Legacy/Outback models won't fit '90-'99. GL

You probably figured this out......but The ECT aka CTS (coolant temp sensor) is on the coolant crossover pipe that runs under the intake manifold (IM). It's on the passenger side, back of the IM...Usually hidden behind some wiring. GL, Td

Hi, Covered extensively on NASIOC website. But the quick answer is NO. It's most compatible w/the '02-'05 model. The newer models have different wiring harness, ECU, etc. GL, Td

Huh? The rear bases on the seats are side-specific they will not interchange.

IncorrectSeat CUSHIONS/foam are interchangeable. Not the whole seat.

Hi, Post this in the Subaru Stuff Wanted thread / section to get some attention. (Admins/Mods will move this post, too.) And this applies to all the Subaru forums w/their Classified sections. GL, Td

Hi, The easiest plug-n-play are the '90-'99 Seats from any Legacy model....even the Outback. I 'think' the '00-'04 may fit also, but not 100%. You'll need to keep your existing buckles. The '92-'07 Impreza seats will bolt in, but you may sit higher than you like. I know on the '02-'07 WRX models the seats are a good 1-2" higher and even w/the height adjustment (driver's side only) @ the lowest setting they're too high for many. GL, Td

STOP! Don't do it! Jake come back! OK...2much? Plz don't use that axle, unless you LIKE changing them every 6 months (depending on your # of miles). Those cheap axles don't have a good rep on any of the Subie sites.....pony up for a better one, still less than $100 usually. td

Hi, I 2nd the Gates kit above LINK. But don't buy it @ RS. I paid a lot less for the same thing on Amazon. Came w/the metal WP gasket and Tbelt spacer tool, too. I bought the Stant Xact T-stat which is identical to the OEM part, but cheaper. GL, Td

Hi, My '96 Legacy did the same thing...when the pass. side was completely broken. The car would drive up to about 30mph and putting it into Park didn't keep it from rolling. Put in a new axle about 30K miles ago, and it's still going strong..... TD

Hi, The 4EAT and Manual - 5-speed were avl., too. Per CARS101.com. Fluid looks like this: And Dexron is fine., too. What was the level like? These can be a pain to check. Awful low miles to have a trans issue (47k?)....but it's due for ATF drain/refill. I'm not a fan of the chemical/power flushes, but @ 47K it should be OK. GL, Td

Hi, Read THIS for the EGR info. Also, you'll need the y-pipe for a SINGLE-port exhaust manifold/header as the 2.5's are all dual-port, and '96-'98 EJ22's are Single. Swap over the 2.5 flex-plate as you'll need it for the AT's torque converter. Reseal the rear separator plate if @ all leaking. ....don't touch the rear main seal unless you're sure it's leaking and read up on here about caveats if you do change it. And as noted above just use the '96's AT, EGR-equipped IM. GL, TD

yes...go look over on RS25.com (mainly an Impreza site) for more info, too. Td

24 - IACV (holds the IDLE) - May need cleaned or could be the wires are cracked/corroded/etc. 32- check wiring - only one on the '93. 33 - Likely the tip /blade of speed sensor in the transmission housing (near the DIFFERENTIAL dipstick on passenger side) is bad. Search on here how to fix that. 35 - common for this code to get set w/others. when you get the axle back in follow the RESET procedure listed in the ECU codes link. And the TCU test doesn't require it to be 'warmed-up'....AFAIK.....just follow the rest of instructions. You're looking for HISTORICAL or Previous codes (review the link again as there are 2 ways to check TCU codes). GL, TD

Hi, Does the Speedo work fine 100% of the time? If not it could be the connector is broken on the tranny housing (near the Diff dipstick). If speedo is OK, then yours is acting like my trans did when it finally died. I did a complete drain/refill 3x to replace the ATF and it worked for about......10 minutes. GL, Td

Hi - Welcome to the USMB forum, Does the POWER light blink when the car is started/turned on? If so there's a TCU code stored - READ THIS. This may help ID the issue. Most likely the rear clutch packs are dead....there are a bunch of threads on here on what others have done to fix/diagnose this. The CEL needs to be read (pulled) from the ECU - READ THIS. Reply back when you know the code(s). Don't use cheap CV axles....you'll just be doing the job again in 6 months. GL, TD