wtdash

Hi, You can check the injectors resistance - should be 10-12 Ohms, I believe, but I'd compare to another 1 or 2 as I'm going off what earlier year side-feed injectors are. But does sound 'dead'. BTW, the side-feed yellows in your '05 are the same as '04-'06 STI, Forester XT, Baja turbo, & Outback XT use. TD

Feedback, please. 2002 WRX w/an AT trans. 168K miles. Car was purchased w/a supposedly non-working transmission. But it drove on the trailer and to the DMV, so I did the 3X drain/refill/repeat and the car seemed to drive - mostly - fine. And I just upgraded the turbo and the car drove fine while checking out the tune. This included full throttle accelerations @ 50+ and from a stop. The trans would shift down when the pedal was floored and accelerate normally*. Except for these issues: 1. There's a grinding noise that ONLY occurs when the car is moving AND accelerating. Doesn't occur when coasting or just stopped and idling. Sounds like it's under the driver's area...but could be the TC, too. 2. Occasional hard shift into Reverse and when downshifting from 4>>3rd>>2nd>>1st. Doesn't 'hold' the shift, just a more noticeable clunk into gear. 3. ONE time only today - car had been sitting overnight- I pulled the car around to my garage for an oil change, and after hitting a decent size puddle/pothole (but no worse hitting a speed bump a bit fast) the car Stopped Accelerating. I shifted thru all gears and nothing. Put it into Park for 10 seconds, tried D once more and the car started moving and drove into the garage w/out further issue. I checked the fluid, which looked/smelled OK and the level was good. After doing the oil change I took the car for a 'spirited' drive on the freeway and local winding road and it worked fine. - No CEL / Transmission codes. - Transmission has BEEN REPLACED already (it has a Reman. sticker on it), but I don't know when/why or @ what mileage. Doesn't show up on the Carfax and my Subaru parts dealer didn't see that it'd been replaced by a Subie dealer. So, I don't know what to think. Other than I've probably got a transmission project in my future. Thanks, TD * The Subaru 4EAT on a turbocharged model just plain sux for off the line acceleration. My Forester XT was equally unresponsive.

Here in the US the EJ205/ 2.0 are known for 'spun bearings'. But if this is the EJ207 engine, they may be superior to both US 2.0 and 2.5. I wouldn't be worried about # 4. It looks to be w/in spec variance....but w/out actual #'s it's not 100% clear.

Hi, Not clear on why you're removing those? But I've also not done a a HG job on anything past '04. TD

HI, 1st off, a '96 was the last year of NON-interference EJ22's. Have you pulled it apart to verify? New heads are more than the car's worth. Here's a LINK to opposed forces that shows part numbers. EDIT: They're about $300/side. Find another set of heads from an EJ22 - any year from '90 to '98. If yours has EGR look for my post on using a NON-EGR head. TD

The power output of the non-turbo Z will be of different type than the Subie - sounds like you've already figured that out. The S-GT/WRX/STi can be tuned (or upgraded) to get the power back in the middle. For the Yanks: S-GT is WRX down under/Japan/UK? REVIEW

I'd tend to agree w/'fishy'. There were some upgrades on the STi version in '11, if you can swing it. From Wikipedia: Is your Z stock or modded? You may already be 'accustomed' to the firmer ride of the STi. But the WRX can be made to handle like the STi and can be upgraded to STi power levels w/out much trouble. Regardless of which model you get, PLEASE get a compression and leak down test done. Yes, it's @ least a couple hundred $$, but turbo Subarus don't have the 'bulletproof' engines of the NA versions (minus their infamous head gaskets). GL, TD

Hi, They should. The 2.2 will be a cable clutch and the 2.5 is hydraulic (hydro),which shouldn't matter. They are both PUSH-type clutches (some turbo models used a PULL-type). Per OpposedForces.com they use the same clutch: gl, Td

+1 on everything above. I'd stay away from the EJ20 - only because it has so much less HP/torque (30+). For year reference, everything from '99-'05 NON-turbo / SOHC will work. You can just swap the Intake Manifold from yours to another engine from the years mentioned. In '06 the EJ25x went to a variable valve setup so the heads may not work (although I 'think' they should), but the short block should still be OK 'til 2010+?? Looking on car-part.com will give the option to search between different years...and models. Search under Legacy/Forester/Impreza for each year. (I recently swapped an EJ22 into a Forester from an Impreza, which worked great. But I had to search on "Impreza" as it didn't show up under the Legacy searches.) GL TD

Thanks John...I didn't think to check the Europe models. They show the same part number for the trans:TV1A4YN2AA And this for the FD under Train: Differential assembly-rear 1 27011AA680 4.111 VISCOUS LSD '01, April — '02, Octobe

yeah...tried one and they don't do that either...but will see if anyone else does. Thanks

I need a company that the Seller can drop off an Automatic transmission, the company will prep it for shipping (palletize/crate/box) and ship it. This is in the Boston, MA area. Any suggestions? Cost isn't the main concern as I'm getting a good deal (I hope) on the trans. Notes: -The Seller doesn't have the means to do anything except drop it off emptied of fluids.. - Seller can't use Greyhound or go downtown Boston.

Thanks for the replies. Japan 's / JDM stuff doesn't always follow USDM specs, esp. for the turbo models.

Hi, I just bought an '02 WRX w/an AUTOMATIC that needs a new transmission - car doesn't move on its own @ all, per PO. On ebay is a JDM 4EAT : TG5C7CBAAA-Y1 Does anyone know if there's an interchange chart for the ATs? I've seen the manual 5/6-speed chart on NASIOC, etc. but nothing for the 4EATs. I know the US-spec is a 4.11 FD Ratio. Neither the Seller on ebay nor my local Subie dealer can confirm the ratio. Thanks

Hi and welcome to the USMB, If the dealer doesn't know either, then I'm not sure what it is - other than a 'bad' fob. I'd replace/swap the battery w/a known good one for kicks and see if that makes a difference. This site doesn't go to 2011 for the keyless systems, but may be something useful: http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html GL, Td

Hi, The CEL is NOT on, correct? If it is on for a PAST issue (like an O2 sensor), check it again for new codes. I'd recommend the MAF, but they usually cause the car to stall - not cut out. And the car will die when coming to a stop. The ignition switch on these is known to fail, but I don't know - other than replacing it - how to test it. Can you make the issue occur on purpose - by driving over a bump? It sounds like a wire is shorting out,...but I can't help tell you where to look. GL, Td

^+1 Thanks again. TD

For future reference and if anyone can corroborate, I got this info from another Subie site:

Hi, +1 on everything mr. 'grossgary' listed. -AFAIK, nothing before about '99 had any ECU updates avl.. I was looking for tuning options on a '98 Forester (same as yours) and there was nothing. 87 unleaded is their drink of choice. -If you've got a code reader/scanner/clearer I'd clear the codes after replacing the KS. -I'd say your <22mpg is right in line w/the Subaru est. #'s. -The 'torque box' (football) you're replacing may actually affect your power and noise level. I realize you're doing it for aesthetic reasons, but it may shift the power band, which may or may not actually be better for drivability. It's kind like people putting on an aftermarket intake. -I'd replace the CTS. They fail. - I wouldn't spend the $ on synthetic ATF; buy the good but regular stuff. I've not read where it makes a difference in the way the car shifts. If you've not read my posts about it (or others), I don't recommend getting the tranny chemically flushed or even a 'power-flush'. Jut drain/refill/repeat 3x to replace the old fluid. I would add an aux. tranny cooler. Heat seems to kill the Subaru 4EAT more than anything (other than neglected fluid). 1998 EJ25D specs: Engine model EJ25D Engine type Horizontally opposed, liquid cooled 4 cylinder, 4 stroke gasoline engine Engine displacement 149.9 cu in. (2,457 cc) Bore 3.92 in. (99.5 mm) Stroke 3.11 in. (79.0 mm) Compression ratio 9.7 : 1 Firing order 1 - 3 - 2 - 4 TD

Hi, I have a '93 Impreza and I'm looking to upgrade the stock 4EAT - it's not dead yet, but I want to be prepared. Looking @ the '91-'94 Legacy SS/TW or '96 - '98 Legacy Outback, GT or LSi or '98 RS (basically something that can handle more power when I upgrade the engine). My main concern is if the CONNECTOR(S) on top of the transmission - by the pitch-stop- work w/the 1993? And will the TCU in the '93 work w/the newer 4EATs? I know I'll need a different rear diff as the 1993 is a 4.11 and the others are either 3.9 or 4.44. Thanks to John - "johnceggleston" for great info and I'd like to hear from anyone that's done this swap/upgrade/replacement. Thanks, TD

Thanks guys..that seems to be the issue - expecting a 3 bolt-hole gasket - which doesn't exist.

Hmmm, I'm now wondering if the 'new style' is just the 2 bolt hole.....I was thinking it should be 3 bolt holes, since there are 3 studs to hold it on? P/N: 44011AC020 might be correct...which is probably the MS 97055.

Nothing close...must be an east coaster? I tried to search on RockAuto, etc. too...must not be avl. west of the Mississippi! :-( See below...were your gaskets 2 or 3 bolts holes? Thanks

^Thanks, but as noted EDIT: I don't 'think' that's the right part.

Swapping a '96 2.2 into a '98 Forester. Edit: I was thinking I was looking for a 3 bolt-hole gasket- doesn't exist for the SINGLE-PORT heads. #1: Having trouble finding the SINGLE port exhaust gasket that goes between the y-pipe exhaust manifold and cylinder head. It's NOT the DUAL port.: 44022AA020>>> 44011AC030. EDIT found: Subaru part number should be: 44011AC020 EDIT - found: This should be correct (and 1/2 the price of dealer): MS 97055 Felpro. Like this: http://gallery.legacycentral.org/d/17545-2/DSCF4157.JPG This gasket was used on the '96-'98 EJ22 used in the Impreza, Legacy. Not found @ Autozone, NAPA, NOR THE LOCAL SUBIE Dealer. They ONLY showed the DUAL port for all years. WTH? #2: Also, the 2.2 has sat @ the local yard - in their shop - for @ last 3+ years ( I almost bought it 3 years ago for another project). Should I BLEED the HLAs before installing the engine? Thanks, Td