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HI, I have some EJ22T experience and you'll have turbo lag to deal with. That might get in the way of any rock crawling. I'm running a bigger turbo and a 'Rob Tune d' EJ20G ECU and made about 225 hp/250 ft-lbs w/my '93 Legacy SS. This AT THE WHEELS - not crank. The EJ22T has SOHC low-flowing heads which get in the way too. If you put some DOHC heads on you should be closer to 250-275 HP. That's about MAX unless you go to a stand alone engine management and a bigger MAF. An NA ECU will NOT get you there. You CAN turbo the stock EJ22, but then you're running into reliability issues, and you'll want to be VERY careful about how much boost you run and a host of other variables. For what you're wanting to do an NA EJ22/EJ25 sounds best. Put some Delta cams in the 2.2 for a torque boost. I'd go look over on Legacy Central for more info. Be aware of your CV angles w/lotsa lift. At some point they'll get over-stressed - I don't know when. Note the rear suspension on the '09+ Forester changed on the rear, I believe - no longer compatible w/the early versions - Forester or Legacy. GL, TD

There was one in our local Pull and Save last fall. I got a few items off of it (seat heaters/switches and heated mirrors/switches). But missed out on the front skid plate - that was a rare piece of history. TD

Hi, Look on Cars101.com - here: http://www.cars101.com/subaru_archives.html = @ the bottom. Answers it all. Td

HI, Welcome to the USMB. BTW, it's best to start a NEW topic vs. 'bumping' a 7 year old one....but not a big deal. What RPM is your car running when it's 'creeping' forward? There is a procedure to obtain the CODEs in the transmission which the 16 flashes are indicating is present. This is separate from the Engine codes. Look on here to find out how for the '95-'98 models - I know how for the '90-'94, HERE, but likely different for your '98. You can also take it to a Tranny shop, but you're likely looking @ a min. Diagnostic charge. Once you get the codes you can post back here for advice....w/out the code we can't help much. GL, TD

You can use a TCU from any '90-'98 Legacy, I believe, as they appear to use the same 3 connectors. Td

Hi, Did you replace the fuel filter as part of your filter maintenance? Also, does it rev freely in Neutral/Park? GL, TD Off-topic but I can't imagine.. ...does this come w/extra passengers - to get out and push up hills??? Makes ~114HP and ~111 ft-lbs (slightly more than the old US EJ18) and it weighs ~3K lbs. 0-100 km = 12.6 secs. AWD/11.8 - FWD, BUT it gets combined 38+ MPG!

HI and Welcome to the USMB. And....What was the old trans doing that required its replacement? GL, TD

This is a cool fix...didn't know about it. Go from this: To this:

No offense, but the '95 Impreza w/the automatic (only way it was avl.) was also OBD-II w/the EGR and should be dual-port heads. The EJ18 was OBD-1 and only avl. w/the 5-speed. I've read about these on other forums and on cars101.com (look under Archives on the left side panel). As noted above, the '96 should be a single-port head on the EJ22...but that's not a deal breaker - just get the y-pipe w/the exhaust manifold. It'll work w/the existing OB's exhaust. GL, TD

HI, The '95 was the cross-over year for Subies...the 2.2 in yours will be an OBD-II car and could easily, IMHO, be swapped to an EJ25D - '96-'99 from a Legacy Outback/GT or '98 Impreza RS or Forester (the DOHC, not SOHC engines). But you'll quickly read on here and elsewhere that they have the INfamous head gasket issue, so you'd need to address that. The Ej25D should be plug-n-play w/your '95, since your EJ22 is a common swap for the EJ25D's that have died...you're just going the opposite direction....It would give you an extra 30HP/Torque, which in that 2-door coupe will wake it up a bit. If you still want to look into a turbo, I'd spend some time on the RS25.com and NASIOC site as there are a ton of Build Threads on just this swap. Many buy the front clip from a JDM importer and swap all of it into their US car....but of course the JDM are RH drive so that's a Gotcha. GL. TD

Hi Larry, I'd be aware that their could be some challenges w/the ABS system. I've read about people doing this on a 2004 Forester and it didn't go well. The ECU's were more picky w/the trans type and other issues. Whereas (you know) the older stuff isn't as finicky. GL, TD

HOLY COW that's a good deal....even if you buy a new engine/heads/tbelt/etc/etc you got a heck of a deal! :-) (That car was over $26K new; $28K if the Premium model!) I would NOT put $2700 into a 160K mile engine...no way no how...IMHO. Know any Subaru mechanics looking for side work that you trust? Reseal the rear separator plate; don't touch the rear main unless obviously leaking as they can be a PITA to replace. Check oil pump...the screws on the inside are known to come loose...there's also an O-ring to replace. Read up on the turbo/cam oil feed line filters. Most I know just remove them, but that is your decision. Your best resource will likely be over on the Subaruforester.org site...but don't get offended if you don't get a response to your questions over there....they seem to be more interested in the newer stuff. You can probably buy the heads - fully loaded- on NASIOC or similar for a lot less the $500+ EACH that Subaru wants for them - w/OUT valves. TD

Hi, Your '04 EJ255 short block is the same as the STi - heads should be the same, too. Go look over on SubaruForester.org for more interchange info, but Any EJ255 from a an '04-'13 Forester, Legacy GT/OB XT, Baja Turbo, '06+ WRX or '04-'13 (?) EJ257 in the STi should work IF YOU USE YOUR Intake Manifold. The '06+ EJ255 had a higher compression ratio, but that should not be an issue - your ECU should be able to deal w/it...just make sure you always run Premium fuel...I'd do some searching on NASIOC+ to double-check. One gotcha is the air pump used on the '06+ models. It's not supported on the '04, but you should be able to just disable it - NASIOC or SubaruForester.org should have more info. Yes, the Legacy GT/OB XT and '06+ WRX used a different IC and turbo (you can see by looking @ pics on cars for sale on ebay or google it). Remember - if the car in the wrecking yard has little body damage, it's likely a blown engine or transmission. The EJ255/7 are DOHC engines they'll have the 2 cams vertically aligned on each side; all others are SOHC. See attached pic. Another option: Buy a NEW/Reman'd shortblock from Subaru. These are less than $2K - HERE. Have your heads rebuilt and you'll have a 'like new' engine. I personally would NOT buy another Subaru Turbo car w/out doing a compression and leak-down test. These EJ255/7 engines have a history of blowing a piston ringland or turbo failure leading to lower-end bearing failure due to the oil getting contaminated. 50% off is a good deal, but not if you have replace it again in a month. :-( Plus, being a turbo it probably wasn't 'babied' unless you know the previous owner....although an Outback XT w/an automatic transmission might be less likely driven as hard as a GT w/a 5-speed...FWIW. TD p.s. what did you pay for the XT? I'd like to find one for a project.

Hi, Re-read the above by Grossgary and Fairtax4me... SVX is a cool car....but also a high-maintenance one as it wasn't made in the quantities of other Subies. Can you do any work yourself or do you have a reputable Subie mechanic close by? If No to both, then take a pass. If you want better performance, I'd look to something newer - not older. The Outback trans w/the 4.44 is a good combination...in fact it'll make the car quicker (but you'll lose the rear LSD) @ the expense of MPG, but you never know what you're buying when getting somebody else's 'project'. Also, your '01 GT will probably need head gaskets in the next 50K, so start saving for that if you donate it to your sis. GL, TD

Incorrect. All EJ22's were NON-interference from '90-'96. In the '97 model year they upped the CR (different pistons, I believe) which caused them to become interference. To the OP, please double-check your timing. Once you confirm the T-belt is correctly installed, see if it'll run. Maybe your tensioner let the belt slip or a pulley seized up?? GL, TD

Are you sure this isn't the Rob Tune? Sounds like 'BoostedSubie's Impreza. The Rob Tune is an EJ20G ECU that has an added chip, but it's not compatible w/anything newer than a '94 Legacy (unless you do a full harness swap, too - which I know BoostedSubie did.)

Read THIS for starters, and start reading up on the Legacy Central and NASIOC forums (I wouldn't ask questions on NASIOC 'til you've done a LOT OF READING as they're not too nice over there.) :-) The EJ20G and EJ22e are both open-deck engines (except for the very early '92-'94?? years on the EJ20G). The cranks and rods are both forged. And EJ20 turbo engines have coated/treated pistons - but still cast. So, the only benefit of the EJ20G is it's designed for boost. The STi's EJ257 is the most powerful engine. Most cost efficient would be the EJ22T from a '91-'94 turbo Legacy....if you can find one. Most of the EJ20's I've seen aren't cheap on Ebay. I agree the best option is to save up for a 'real' turbocharged Subaru....and since you want it to be 'fast' you need to plan on upgrading the brakes, tires, suspension, etc. too. GL, Td

^+1 And to add... Look up 'stroker' builds on NASIOC and Legacy Central BBS. There are a # of these around the US. Also, Wiseco makes an oversized piston for the EJ22T Some of the issues w/your build are the pistons, Turbo size and EM (engine management). A 20G is a BIG turbo. People who use it are running a custom built engine - or will be after they blow the ringlands on the stock turbo pistons. The TD04 might work, but still pushing it. You wouldn't want NA pistons in a turbo build. For all the machine work you're planning there's no sense in not going w/forged pistons and better rods. Plus you've got to lower the compression to make decent boost #'s (unless you're running a newer Direct Injection turbo like on the Ford Ecoboost or Hyundai turbocharged engines). I'm not sure what you mean by the "2.5x" ECU?? The X wasn't turbo'd and the XT wasn't 'til '04 and won't work w/your '01. EM is crucial for running a turbo. Esp. on a non-turbo ECU. This means a piggy-back, standalone, or full harness swap from a WRX or similar. I've not read where the stock NA ECU's can be tuned. You can look on the RomRaider forum to see what's been done.... I know we're playing devil's advocate, but I've been thru this more than once and it gets $$ and frustrating when it doesn't work as planned. Seriously consider the fact that your car will be down TWICE as long you think it will take to install of this and COST TWICE as much as you budget. I'd get some Delta Cams and call it good on your Forester or sell it and save up for an XT or WRX. If you want a cheap(er) turbo car, you can buy an older Legay and swap it. Much easier and cheaper. GL, TD

I have a 2004 Impreza TS that had the Check Engine LIght (CEL) on for a P1443 - " EVAP Control System Vent Control Function Problem ". The fix was to replace Purge Valve control solenoid, P/N: 16102AA080 - located under the intake manifold on the passenger side of the engine. This part is the same as on a '97 Legacy that I recently had, so it's a common part that Subaru has used for years. And due to the cost, would be worth trying a used one (if you can return it). New runs $90+. This didn't cause the car to run/drive any differently but it did have a related side-effect: When refilling the fuel tank, the car would stumble / Idle poorly / fail to start on the 1st try. This only lasted for 30 seconds and the car started and ran fine otherwise. I did NOT have the refueling issue that causes the gas nozzle to turn off prematurely, which seemed to come up more often with the P1443 code (see attached for diagnosing that issue.) If you get the code, use the Diagnostic tests attached FIRST before spending a dime. Basically, w/the key off, connect the green connectors under the driver's side of the dash, key to ON >>>engine OFF, and ensure all the solenoids involved are clicking and airflow isn't continuous while clicking...the valve should open/close causing the airflow to be interrupted. History (but not a recommend troubleshooting sequence!): I spoke to a Subaru parts supplier that I've used for the last few years and he suggested, after talking to a tech, to replace the Canister Vent Valve also known as the Drain Valve, P/N: 42084FA120. This is in the back behind the passenger rear wheel underneath the car for the 1999-2004 Subaru Impreza (includes the WRX and STi) and Forester. I think it's the same for Legacy and Outback. (Based on other threads, the Canister Vent/Drain valve was integrated into the charcoal canister on '05+ models.) This is a pic of the parts in the EVAP system. The Canister vent valve solenoid/Drain Valve (top of pic next to the cylindrical drain filter) and the pressure control solenoid on the lower right located in back of the car, the Charcoal Canister (underneath everything) and the purge valve control solenoid (the separate part w/the hose) from the intake manifold. After this had no effect I replaced the Charcoal Canister and cleaned out the Drain Filter. This was also a no go. For reference the charcoal canister weighs less than 3 lbs. when new but when diagnosing issues, many techs will replace it if it weighs 4-5 lbs.. Also, if you have a habit of 'topping off' - STOP IT - you're likely back feeding fuel into places it's not supposed to go - such as the charcoal canister. Finally, I got my act together and found a document online and was given one by the Subaru parts dealer (see attached) that recommended using the green diagnostic connectors under the dash (Video ). This cycles all the solenoids, radiator fans, etc on/off to verify that they are @ least getting power. Also Fairtax4me gave me the following good info: I checked that the two in the back - Canister vent valve solenoid/Drain Valve and Pressure Control Solenoid, and then the Purge Valve Control Solenoid @ the intake manifold. The Purge valve wasn't cycling and when I blew thru it, air was able to flow continuously....it was stuck OPEN. I swapped in an extra Purge Valve I had and tested it. As well as cycling on/off, it also turned the air flow on/off as i blew thru it......problem found! I drove the car for 30 minutes and the CEL stayed off, whereas before it would come on w/in 5-10 minutes of cruising on the freeway AND when I put in some fuel it started and ran fine. I'm calling it FIXED....after much frustration. Here's a pic of the Purge Valve disassembled. I can't see anything wrong w/it, but some have indicated they might be able to be fixed???: p1443 diagnosis.pdf

Hi, Please refer to this POST about diagnosing the flashing light codes. I'm betting that the OP has the 16 flashes not 'just a few' as that would be very unusual. The 16 flashes DOES NOT TELL THE CODE only that they are issues w/the transmission and the diagnostic procedure needs to be followed to pull / get the codes from the TCU. GL, TD

Here's the LINK I'm guessing was 'sposed to be in the above post. 'darsdoug' links back to this thread.

HI, Probably too basic, but: The CC worked b4 the work was done correct? (You didn't buy the car to fix and then found the CC doesn't work??) If the horn doesn't work and the Airbag light is on, the roll-connector/clockspring is likely bad and will need replaced to fix it. GL, td

Hi, Subaru is planning on discontinuing the Tribeca, per cars101.com. If you plan on keeping it forever, and can get it for Trade-in value on KBB.com, then it may be worth it. Otherwise, you'll pay too much for a car that will be worth a lot less when you go to sell it....and Yes, I am a Subie fan (I own 3). They don't get very good MPG, among other things...per CR: GL, TD

Hi, I've bought multiple cars on ebay and (keep telling myself) won't again due to the hit-or-miss nature of it. The 'hit' is I've bought @ least 3 cars from back east due to their low cost-even w/shipping. The 'misses' - One had undisclosed body damage, another had piston slap so bad I thought it was rod knock (one of my first Subies), another had low compression, etc. In most of these cases I didn't lose money when I went to resell it, but I certainly didn't get the deal I'd budgeted for. I've actually gone thru eBay's 'refund policy' and got $$ back on 2 of the car deals due to poor descriptions on the Seller's part (and threat of Negative Feedback). It's very important to find all the 'undisclosed' issues as soon as possible, in order to make a claim, if warranted. There are pre-inspection companies that for $100+ will do a 'buyer's inspection'- that may be a good idea - can't tell ya for sure as I never had one done. Usually a link on each ebay listing. So, I've just learned to buy local so I can check it out myself, and avoid the hassles of a long-distance 'relationship'. On the CarFax vs. Auto check, I believe the Carfax will sometimes include maintenance (esp. if done @ a dealer) info that Auto check does not - @ least in the dozen or so reports I've seen over the years. The Carfax will show the dealer/shop's name and what was done, which can be useful if the Seller discards all previous maintenance history that may contain their personal info, due to today's ID Theft concerns. (Side-note: the 'free' V I N c h e c k loophole has been fixed by Auto-check, last I heard.) And I agree that a salvage/rebuilt/etc title isn't always bad, but more and more people are 'getting smart' and pulling a report to know the history. Of course, there are likely a ton of cars that get repaired and are put back on the road w/out any report being filed. TD

A guy w/a sense of humor AND a poet (does he know it?). (((not my ad!!!))) http://spokane.craigslist.org/cto/4082701650.html *To the tune of Hot Rod Lincoln* Wife says, boy, you got me to beggin', for you to sell that Outback Wagon. Did you hear the story of the Subaru. Built in '98, it's nowhere new. The facts are true, as you will see, Cause I am selling that Legacy. It's got the two five motor, that's just all stock, Blew a headgasket once, but didnt crack the block. Motor pulled and gasketed it all And a recent radiator, ready for fall. With four titanium plugs and single exhaust And a repaired rearend, that sure did cost. Its got two airbags, but I aint scared. Brakes are good, and tires are 50% fair. Pulled out of Spokane early one day. Headed to the mountain so I could play. We was driving up Chewelah Peak's hill, Passing two wheel drives like their standing still. All of a sudden I began to slide. My friends all thought that we would die. I said "Boys, there is no need to shout!" All four wheels grabbed and straightened us out. This car's the best when it's wintery blind. If you live on a hill, you should keep this in mind. When the heater heats up, man alive I swore it got up to at least 95 I've wound it up once to 86 Had to speed on up to get my fix Friends said "Slow down, I see a cop!" quickly took it down to 60 before I got stopped Now you probably all wonder what else its got. It has AC, that now blows hot Replace the compressor is all you gotta do and it will blow cold, and as good as new! After market stereo stuffed in the console. Some speakers dont work so it wont sound full. I may chase the wires on an open day So the music will be loud when you choose to play. Power steering seems to have a runny nose looks like the reservoir, not from a hose. Simple fix to get the leak to stop Cause on the engine the pump sits right on top. Down a dirt road I felt some chatter Struts are what I gured to be the matter, No time to replace them for I work long days Need to sell this car, for I got bills to pay. Two small dents, I'll tell you where they're at Left hood and fender, where a snowplow sat Also has scratches that may buff out again its not perfect without a doubt. 193,000 miles on the odometer Starts right up with a quiet purr. I need to buy a truck to keep my wife from begging To please try and sell that Out.... Back.... Wagon.