wtdash

^...other than it's quite LOUD ! :-) I thought that the rod may end up thru the case rendering it scrap? But if we pull it b4 that happens, the block itself can still be rebuilt, correct? Thanks Td

Thanks for the feedback. The car was on a road trip and had been driven about 100 miles from home when the noise started. I bought it used in '11, fixed the head gasket and it was driven approx. 25K miles over the last 3 years before the knock started. IIRC the previous owner had already fixed the HG once before, so I don't know how bad/many times it was overheated.

This is the stock 2.5 / EJ25D. Is this ROD knock or valves? Code for Misfire on 2 cylinders, too Thanks

HuH? What is this "GFYB, MF!" ? I don't get it - and not sure I want to. I was NOT disrespecting you, if that's what you think. TD

EDIT: That's probably your issue.The AC cycling. And I'd bet it's just the O-rings where the metal lines connect to the compressor - unless it's gotten 'fried' due to overuse. Read up on here or over on Subaruoutback.org for info on the o-rings. Easy enough to do yourself, but you'd need to 'recapture' the freon to be legal. And 'subaru nut' is my 'rank' due to # of posts. My user name is 'wtdash', not that it matters, but just for future reference. :-) GL, TD

Hi, Not sure why others haven't jumped in.... Since the MPG seem OK, I'm not as confident in my suggestions...and i'm not that familiar w/the H6- but: - Tune ups? wires and plugs? EDIT: this uses coil packs on the plugs..they could still be the issue, but not sure how to 'check 'em'. - MAF sensor need cleaned (carefully! read up) - Vac line issues? Car is 12 years old so hoses get brittle - try another fuel station GL, Td

Yes...the intake and exhaust valves interfere as they are on separate cams. Depending on the piston protrusion above the deck they can also hit valves. You'll want to do the 'franken motor' search, but you get more hp/torque w/a 2.5 SHORT block and 2.2 heads. Putting 2.5 DOHC heads on any 2.2 - NA or Turbo - will reduce your CR. But w/a turbo block it's still good as it allows MORE boost. The EJ22T block w/EJ25D heads is a 7.7:1 CR; w/the EJ22e it's about 8.5:1. So, it's really only a WIN w/a turbo for either application. TD

+1 Also, I don't know your budget, but you might be getting into WRX>>STi territory w/your goals. You could get a hatch/wagon version, lift it, and - esp. w/an STi - you'd have much more performance potential - the power-adders are readily avl. WRX: TD

HI, I have some EJ22T experience and you'll have turbo lag to deal with. That might get in the way of any rock crawling. I'm running a bigger turbo and a 'Rob Tune d' EJ20G ECU and made about 225 hp/250 ft-lbs w/my '93 Legacy SS. This AT THE WHEELS - not crank. The EJ22T has SOHC low-flowing heads which get in the way too. If you put some DOHC heads on you should be closer to 250-275 HP. That's about MAX unless you go to a stand alone engine management and a bigger MAF. An NA ECU will NOT get you there. You CAN turbo the stock EJ22, but then you're running into reliability issues, and you'll want to be VERY careful about how much boost you run and a host of other variables. For what you're wanting to do an NA EJ22/EJ25 sounds best. Put some Delta cams in the 2.2 for a torque boost. I'd go look over on Legacy Central for more info. Be aware of your CV angles w/lotsa lift. At some point they'll get over-stressed - I don't know when. Note the rear suspension on the '09+ Forester changed on the rear, I believe - no longer compatible w/the early versions - Forester or Legacy. GL, TD

There was one in our local Pull and Save last fall. I got a few items off of it (seat heaters/switches and heated mirrors/switches). But missed out on the front skid plate - that was a rare piece of history. TD

Hi, Look on Cars101.com - here: http://www.cars101.com/subaru_archives.html = @ the bottom. Answers it all. Td

HI, Welcome to the USMB. BTW, it's best to start a NEW topic vs. 'bumping' a 7 year old one....but not a big deal. What RPM is your car running when it's 'creeping' forward? There is a procedure to obtain the CODEs in the transmission which the 16 flashes are indicating is present. This is separate from the Engine codes. Look on here to find out how for the '95-'98 models - I know how for the '90-'94, HERE, but likely different for your '98. You can also take it to a Tranny shop, but you're likely looking @ a min. Diagnostic charge. Once you get the codes you can post back here for advice....w/out the code we can't help much. GL, TD

You can use a TCU from any '90-'98 Legacy, I believe, as they appear to use the same 3 connectors. Td

Hi, Did you replace the fuel filter as part of your filter maintenance? Also, does it rev freely in Neutral/Park? GL, TD Off-topic but I can't imagine.. ...does this come w/extra passengers - to get out and push up hills??? Makes ~114HP and ~111 ft-lbs (slightly more than the old US EJ18) and it weighs ~3K lbs. 0-100 km = 12.6 secs. AWD/11.8 - FWD, BUT it gets combined 38+ MPG!

HI and Welcome to the USMB. And....What was the old trans doing that required its replacement? GL, TD

This is a cool fix...didn't know about it. Go from this: To this:

No offense, but the '95 Impreza w/the automatic (only way it was avl.) was also OBD-II w/the EGR and should be dual-port heads. The EJ18 was OBD-1 and only avl. w/the 5-speed. I've read about these on other forums and on cars101.com (look under Archives on the left side panel). As noted above, the '96 should be a single-port head on the EJ22...but that's not a deal breaker - just get the y-pipe w/the exhaust manifold. It'll work w/the existing OB's exhaust. GL, TD

HI, The '95 was the cross-over year for Subies...the 2.2 in yours will be an OBD-II car and could easily, IMHO, be swapped to an EJ25D - '96-'99 from a Legacy Outback/GT or '98 Impreza RS or Forester (the DOHC, not SOHC engines). But you'll quickly read on here and elsewhere that they have the INfamous head gasket issue, so you'd need to address that. The Ej25D should be plug-n-play w/your '95, since your EJ22 is a common swap for the EJ25D's that have died...you're just going the opposite direction....It would give you an extra 30HP/Torque, which in that 2-door coupe will wake it up a bit. If you still want to look into a turbo, I'd spend some time on the RS25.com and NASIOC site as there are a ton of Build Threads on just this swap. Many buy the front clip from a JDM importer and swap all of it into their US car....but of course the JDM are RH drive so that's a Gotcha. GL. TD

Hi Larry, I'd be aware that their could be some challenges w/the ABS system. I've read about people doing this on a 2004 Forester and it didn't go well. The ECU's were more picky w/the trans type and other issues. Whereas (you know) the older stuff isn't as finicky. GL, TD

HOLY COW that's a good deal....even if you buy a new engine/heads/tbelt/etc/etc you got a heck of a deal! :-) (That car was over $26K new; $28K if the Premium model!) I would NOT put $2700 into a 160K mile engine...no way no how...IMHO. Know any Subaru mechanics looking for side work that you trust? Reseal the rear separator plate; don't touch the rear main unless obviously leaking as they can be a PITA to replace. Check oil pump...the screws on the inside are known to come loose...there's also an O-ring to replace. Read up on the turbo/cam oil feed line filters. Most I know just remove them, but that is your decision. Your best resource will likely be over on the Subaruforester.org site...but don't get offended if you don't get a response to your questions over there....they seem to be more interested in the newer stuff. You can probably buy the heads - fully loaded- on NASIOC or similar for a lot less the $500+ EACH that Subaru wants for them - w/OUT valves. TD

Hi, Your '04 EJ255 short block is the same as the STi - heads should be the same, too. Go look over on SubaruForester.org for more interchange info, but Any EJ255 from a an '04-'13 Forester, Legacy GT/OB XT, Baja Turbo, '06+ WRX or '04-'13 (?) EJ257 in the STi should work IF YOU USE YOUR Intake Manifold. The '06+ EJ255 had a higher compression ratio, but that should not be an issue - your ECU should be able to deal w/it...just make sure you always run Premium fuel...I'd do some searching on NASIOC+ to double-check. One gotcha is the air pump used on the '06+ models. It's not supported on the '04, but you should be able to just disable it - NASIOC or SubaruForester.org should have more info. Yes, the Legacy GT/OB XT and '06+ WRX used a different IC and turbo (you can see by looking @ pics on cars for sale on ebay or google it). Remember - if the car in the wrecking yard has little body damage, it's likely a blown engine or transmission. The EJ255/7 are DOHC engines they'll have the 2 cams vertically aligned on each side; all others are SOHC. See attached pic. Another option: Buy a NEW/Reman'd shortblock from Subaru. These are less than $2K - HERE. Have your heads rebuilt and you'll have a 'like new' engine. I personally would NOT buy another Subaru Turbo car w/out doing a compression and leak-down test. These EJ255/7 engines have a history of blowing a piston ringland or turbo failure leading to lower-end bearing failure due to the oil getting contaminated. 50% off is a good deal, but not if you have replace it again in a month. :-( Plus, being a turbo it probably wasn't 'babied' unless you know the previous owner....although an Outback XT w/an automatic transmission might be less likely driven as hard as a GT w/a 5-speed...FWIW. TD p.s. what did you pay for the XT? I'd like to find one for a project.

Hi, Re-read the above by Grossgary and Fairtax4me... SVX is a cool car....but also a high-maintenance one as it wasn't made in the quantities of other Subies. Can you do any work yourself or do you have a reputable Subie mechanic close by? If No to both, then take a pass. If you want better performance, I'd look to something newer - not older. The Outback trans w/the 4.44 is a good combination...in fact it'll make the car quicker (but you'll lose the rear LSD) @ the expense of MPG, but you never know what you're buying when getting somebody else's 'project'. Also, your '01 GT will probably need head gaskets in the next 50K, so start saving for that if you donate it to your sis. GL, TD

Incorrect. All EJ22's were NON-interference from '90-'96. In the '97 model year they upped the CR (different pistons, I believe) which caused them to become interference. To the OP, please double-check your timing. Once you confirm the T-belt is correctly installed, see if it'll run. Maybe your tensioner let the belt slip or a pulley seized up?? GL, TD

Are you sure this isn't the Rob Tune? Sounds like 'BoostedSubie's Impreza. The Rob Tune is an EJ20G ECU that has an added chip, but it's not compatible w/anything newer than a '94 Legacy (unless you do a full harness swap, too - which I know BoostedSubie did.)

Read THIS for starters, and start reading up on the Legacy Central and NASIOC forums (I wouldn't ask questions on NASIOC 'til you've done a LOT OF READING as they're not too nice over there.) :-) The EJ20G and EJ22e are both open-deck engines (except for the very early '92-'94?? years on the EJ20G). The cranks and rods are both forged. And EJ20 turbo engines have coated/treated pistons - but still cast. So, the only benefit of the EJ20G is it's designed for boost. The STi's EJ257 is the most powerful engine. Most cost efficient would be the EJ22T from a '91-'94 turbo Legacy....if you can find one. Most of the EJ20's I've seen aren't cheap on Ebay. I agree the best option is to save up for a 'real' turbocharged Subaru....and since you want it to be 'fast' you need to plan on upgrading the brakes, tires, suspension, etc. too. GL, Td