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Please be aware that the 2.5 GT has a different engine - turbocharged - that utilizes a different exhaust, ECU (computer), and other parts. It's a DOHC vs. the SOHC NA engine, too. So, many of the non-engine components will swap, but not the engine stuff. If you want more power, your best bet is to find a low mileage GT ('05-'11 (?)) - ensure you get a compression/leak down test!! - then you'll have access to more power options if the stock engine isn't enough. The power upgrade options on non-turbo Subarus are generally not worth the modest gains you'll get for your $$. Go spend some time on the LegacyGT.com site or http://www.sl-i.net/, too. They'll have more performance ideas. GL, Td

Hi, If the POWER light is on that points to / indicates a transmission related issue, too. If the POWER light flashes at start-up that means it's throwing a code - similar to the 'CEL/Check engine light', which can be retrieved using this INFO. And if it's running that bad, the CEL is likely on and those codes can be checked using this INFO. Gl, Td

Hi, I'd do a compression and leak down test on your engine....just to check its 'health'. The EJ2xx engines are known for breaking ringlands w/higher miles. If you want info on HP/Torque, I'd go over to NASIOC.com to see what Yanks are getting out of their EJ205/207 engines. Some are putting BIG turbos and injectors on their cars and making impressive #'s. The US uses Wheel HP/Torque, not Crank...so don't be surprised to see lower numbers in comparison to the UK. GL, TD

I'm going to play the devil's advocate and tell you to keep looking. The HG repair is good to know, but what is unknown is how long it was run w/the issue and if it was ever overheated...overheating can fry the rod bearings and you'll end up w/a rod thru the block. The early Foresters were good cars, but they had their share of issues, and if you want to keep your friend, I wouldn't put them in this car....go over to Subaruforester.org and spend some time time looking thru their forums. Wheel bearings, misfires, are just some of the notable issues...and you're in the 'rust belt' so could be extra issues related to corrosion. And it's been in an accident - PM me for the 'AutoCheck' (like carfax) if needed. TD

And the SOHC intake manifolds (IM) are all interchangeable from the EJ18 and EJ22, AFAIK. Another point...I wonder if the EJ18's EGR is the same as the EJ22's? The EJ18 were mostly OBD1 and the EJ22 EGR are ALL OBD2/OBDII, and the the OBD2 ECU's may not like the older OBD1's EGR sensor/wiring/etc. Anyone know? Edit: My 'info-gathering' suggests that the '96+ OBD2 EJ18's did NOT have EGR as they were only used w/the 5-speed transmission -just like (most) EJ22's. There are NO OBD2 EJ18 Intake Manifolds w/EGR thru the '97 model year. Td

Thanks...added to original post.

Thanks! Yep...just cut it, loosen nut @ EGR Valve, swivel towards the IAC hose (if needed), tighten nut, clamp a hose on it, and T into the IAC. Eliminates the need for the 'fancy' fitting and saves a few $$. TD

This works w/all the non-EGR EJ22's (most manual cars from '95-98, and any '90-94 EJ22) and should work on the non-EGR JDM EJ25's, too, and doesn't require drilling/tapping the driver's-side cylinder head. (You'll need to get a single-port exhaust header/y-pipe for the '96-'98 EJ22.) BUT REQUIRES an EGR-equipped intake manifold ('95-98) from another EJ22. EGR = Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve Edit: Also, the EJ18 from the Impreza should work. (Thanks to Matt167 for the reminder.) But be aware that it gives up 50Hp/Torque to the EJ25. This modification eliminates the EGR pipe that originally attaches to the EGR valve on the IM and the driver's side cylinder head. See pic (from EJ25, but same idea on EJ22): This REQUIRES an EGR-equipped intake manifold ('95-98), but changing the intake manifold (IM) isn't that tough, esp. w/the engine out (remember - the EJ22 SOHC and '96-'99 DOHC use different IM's- not interchangeable!). I don't know of anyone that's successfully bypassed the EGR valve by using a resistor or any other electrical modification. I've put over 2K miles on this and not had an issue. NO CEL/Check Engine Light. Car's MPG is still the same. Installation info: Overview of what I did: I ran a hose from the EGR valve and T'd into the IAC hose so the EGR valve sees flow...it doesn't care where it's from apparently. For the EGR valve connection, I found 2 fittings @ the ACE hardware store that fit together. I believe it's 3/4 that screws into the EGR valve on the IM, then a 1/4 barbed fitting. Put some thread tape on to seal it...it screwed in tight w/out any issues: I then ran short piece of PCV hose into a 90° elbow. PCV hose is same ID as the breather hose on the valve covers. Here's the EGR-side installed: From the elbow I ran another piece of PCV hose to a reducer fitting w/a short piece of PCV hose from the T-fitting in the IAC hose, as the IAC hose has a larger ID than the PCV hose I used. Final installation: So far, I've not had a CEL and car runs the same as before. (Don't tap into the breather hoses as you'll have blue smoke out the tailpipe! ) EDIT: I did this same mod on my '96 Legacy (bought 8/2015) when I used the EJ22T heads (no EGR port), and on 10/25/16 I got a P0400 EGR code. I cleared it and it came back next time I drove the car. I replaced the BPT - back pressure transducer - that sits on top of the EGR valve and has 4 vacuum lines connected - 3 on top; 1 underneath. No codes after a week's worth of driving. I used a TOYOTA part that I PullandSaved months/years ago. I guessed this was the issue, and it takes about a minute to swap it out. Thanks again for the input from everyone on here and to member 987687 for the idea. Td

Just to clarify, you're referring to interchange between the '95-99 2.2 and 2.5 ONLY, correct? The earlier '90-'91 2.2's had gray injectors (Automatic trans ??) and they've been shown by Legacy777 and others to specifically run best w/the matching ECU for that year and model. The ECU can only compensate for small differences in flow rates. Putting in '91-'94 pink turbo injectors (360cc) likely won't work. And the higher flow STi injectors (525cc) will likely flood the cylinders and could hydro-lock the engine, as 'ivans' noted. If putting in bigger injectors, tuning is required to take advantage of the extra fuel. TD

Hi, Welcome to the USMB. Spark plugs need to be NGK's BK6RE-11. And as noted above OEM/NGK wires are best. It definitely sounds like it's not 'hitting on all cylinders' below 2K RPM. Valve train is self-adjusting hydraulic, and 155K isn't much on an EJ22. Also, is the CEL light on? You can 'pull the codes' yourself - HERE. Lastly, I'd check the timing. You can look on here or on the Legacy Central bbs for how to verify timing belt is installed correctly. TD

Here is some light reading on boosting your '98 Foz. Also has some suspension info. GL, Td

Hi, Those are slotted/drilled rotors, it appears. If so, they may be from a newer WRX, etc. and won't fit under the 15" wheels on the front - rears should be OK. They don't look too big in the pics, but b4 buying 15" wheels/tires I'd pull the rotor off and measure its diameter to make sure. 10.7" on the '96-'00 OB's 11.4" '01-'04 OB, '02-'05 WRX GL, Td

www .acraauto .com/vehicle_display_carfax.php?vin= JF1GD67696G509333&sid=5081645 remove spaces The V I N isn't always the last # in the URLs that will work. I don't filter by 'last 24 hours' and get 10+ pages of results.

Used it yesterday. If the 1st post's instructions are followed, it still works. But I did have to look thru more Google results to get one that did work.

This doesn't address the issue if you wanted to use an EJ22 w/a non-EGR intake manifold (IM), but changing the intake manifold isn't that tough, esp. w/the engine out. I found 2 fittings @ the ACE hardware store that fit together. I believe it's 3/4 that screws into the EGR valve on the IM, then a 1/4 barbed fitting. Put some thread tape on to seal it...it screwed in tight w/out any issues: And installed: I used the IAC hose as the source for the EGR. So far, I've not had a CEL and car runs the same as before. (Don't use the breather hoses as you'll have blue smoke out the tailpipe! ) Thanks again for the input from everyone on here and to 987687 for the idea. Td

www .magicmotors51 .com /report%20for%20VIN%201LNHM82W71Y612637.html remove spaces.

As Gary suggested the Cars101.com will tell you what you're after. The '93-96 was the 1st iteration of the Impreza - coupe/sedan/wagon. The Outback Sport (OBS) was a '95 model initially, and was the same as the wagon. The wagon was a 'sport wagon', too, but not an OUTBACK...just to confuse things a little. In '97 they made some minor changes to the front end and added the hood scoop on the OBS. I believe the same basic body style lasted thru 2001 in the US. I currently have a '96 OBS and a '96 LX sport wagon, and they are the same except for a few odds and ends: 2 tone paint (lower gray) Outback cloth Special wheel covers (hubcaps) Roof rack Mud flaps Rear bumper protector Cargo area plastic mat with tie-down hooks Td

Hi, Common swap...Go check out RS25.com ('98 Impreza RS is essentially the same engine/trans as your '96), NASIOC, and LegacyGT.com - among others. Your '96 should be the same as a '96-99 OB/GT, and a '98 RS and Forester...by 'same' I mean the swap info should be very similar - including the wiring. As, Larry listed, the Automatic has a 4.44 rear diff ratio; all the manual/5-speeds behind the '96-99 EJ25's are 4.11. You can also use a non-Outback Legacy or Impreza 5-speed, too. The 2.5 5-speeds are hydraulic (hydro) clutches; the 2.2's are cable and IMHO much easier to deal with...and not that much more clutch pedal pressure...if any. GL, TD

^Thanks GD...that's the technical stuff we need to know. I think these pics may back that up, too. Pic of the UNtapped EGR boss on a '96 EJ22 - I'm guessing to not go past that 1st 'hump' visible in the hole: And here is mine that leaked - visible that I drilled it too far: For reference: And from the exhaust looking into the head - see the hole:

Well, that's what matters to me...no CEL. Too bad I didn't see this option 3 days ago. ....dang my timing's been bad lately! Thanks again for the reply, TD

Ok...but I thought the EGR would be hot exhaust gas. Doesn't the exhaust flow FROM the head INTO the IM's EGR valve? I can't see a regular vacuum hose holding up to that, nor do I get how the EGR valve would still work...not temp related? I'm not arguing...just more confused than anything. Thanks for the info.

Can I pull the head off the original '96 EJ22 and just swap cams, etc from the '97 into the '96 head? I know '97 is when Subaru switched to the solid valve adjusters, per wikipedia, and I'd like to run the better performing heads. Thanks EDIT: found this POST, that says I can. Per GD:

Hi, Please provide a pic of this setup...I'm not 'getting it'. Thanks, Td

Wow...coincidental....hope this isn't a thread hijack. Car: 1996 Impreza LX Automatic w/EJ22 (ran low on oil) and EGR Replacement Engine: '97 EJ22 non-EGR I drilled and tapped the EGR port on the head, got it installed, started it up and have a water leak from the head's EGR port, along w/a huge cloud of white smoke out of the tail pipe. Pretty sure that's a bad sign. Based on this thread and what others are telling me, I hit a 'water jacket/coolant passage' w/the EGR tap?? I used this THREAD on legacyGT and tapped the same hole as shown - but this is for a EJ25D head. I'm positive I used the same port on my EJ22 head, but apparently there are some internal differences?? I'm not clear on how I could patch the hole as it's getting into the exhaust, too? I'm thinking it's FUBAR'd. :-( Td EJ22 info from Endwrench

Yep...the triangle/bottom bracket won't work w/my '96 Impreza compressor and Alt/AC bracket. The bolt hole is there...just need the '97 bracket to use it. I agree...I'm not trying to change that truth. Just one of those 'gotchas'. Thanks for the info , Td